



' ♦i.*W, 




Class 



CfiPXRrGHT DEPOSm 



HANDICRAFT 

FOR 
HANDY GIRLS 



HANDICRAFT BOOKS 

BY 

A. NEELY HALL 



8vo. Cloth. Illustrated with hutidreds of full-page 

and working drawings by the author 

and Norman P. Hall 



^w^-^ -n^n-^T ^T^ 1 r^>nn..r . -.T ( Price «if/ ^ 1.60 

THE BOY CRAFTSMAN . . < -,, ,0 

( Postpaid 1.82 

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS | ^''"^ "f ^ ^•°° 

( Postpaid 2.25 

»^^ »,..»T^,r ^^,, ( Price «^/ ^ 1.60 

THE HANDY BOY . . • -^ t. jo 

( Postpaid 1.82 

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS ( Price «^/^ 1.25 
AND BOYS .... I Postpaid 1.40 

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS I ^"''^ '!'f ^ ^•°° 

( Postpaid 2.25 



LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 




I'hoto. Courtesy of Camp Fire Girls 

A Camp Fire Oiri. Workincj at hp.r Handicraft 



HANDICRAFT 

FOR 
HANDY GIRLS 

R-actical Plans fermrkandPlay 
By ANGGlyHall 

^uihor of Jha Bqv Craftsman , 

Handicraft for Handy Boys" 

Home-made Toys for Girls and Boys, 

The Handy Boy "Eic. 

and DorotKyPerldns 

y\m\. over seven nunarGa illustraiions ana work- 
ing-drawings by uiG auinors anaNormanPHall 




BOSTON 

LOTHROP, LEE &-SHEPARD CO. 



TTl7/ 
.H3 



Copyright, 1916, By Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company. 
Published, November, 1916. 



All rights reserved. 



Handicraft for Handy Girls. 



NOV 24 1916 



OCI.A446()07 



It is not strength, 
but art obtains the prize. 

—Homer- Iliad. 



INTRODUCTORY NOTES 

Not long after the publication of 'The Boy Craftsman," 
there came to the author the suggestion that girls ought to have 
a book just like it upon girls' handicraft; after "Handicraft for 
Handy Boys" was published, requests for such a book came 
regularly; after the third volume, 'The Handy Boy," made 
its appearance, requests came more frequently and were more 
insistent; some, in fact, were in the nature of demands. Accord- 
ingly, when work was begun upon the fourth volume, it was 
decided to let the girls have a share in it, and "Home-made 
Toys for Girls and Boys" was prepared with as many ideas for 
girls as for boys. 

Now, of course, the author knew that girls are interested in 
handicraft other than toy-making, that their interests cover 
almost, if not quite as broad a field of endeavor as boys' do, 
so he was not surprised to find that "Home-made Toys for 
Girls and Boys" whetted the girls' appetites for a book of mater- 
ial of a more general nature, nor was he surprised to find that 
girls wanted a book all of their own, in which boys had no share 
whatsoever. If excuse is necessary, this then is the reason 
for presenting "Handicraft for Handy Girls." 

In collaboration with an expert craftswoman, a worker with 
girls, a writer upon fine arts, the author of the boys' handi- 
craft books has endeavored to produce in "Handicraft for 
Handy Girls" a volume which will be as broad in scope, as up 
to the minute in subject matter, and as practical in every detail, 
as any of his other books. In fact, it has been his aim to make 



if. _ 



vi INTRODUCTORY NOTES 

"Handicraft for Handy Girls** a volume that will be such a 
source of enjoyment to every girl that it will become as constant 
a companion as her most devoted chum, a volume that she 
will refer to when she wants ideas for fixing up her room, ideas 
for holiday and birthday gift-making, ideas for parties and enter- 
tainments, instruction in fine arts, garden hints, money-earning 
plans, camping suggestions, or when she wants simply a good 
rainy-day or sunny-day pastime for a leisure hour or so. 

It used to be the general belief that it was next to impossible 
for the average girl to drive a nail straight, carpentry for girls 
was not to be thought of. Now, it is being demonstrated every 
day that a girl can become as proficient in the use of a hammer 
as a boy can. In fact, many girls are studying manual-training 
at school. And why not? If a girl wants something pretty 
for her room, or wants a household convenience of some sort, 
why is it not perfectly feasible for her to put her ideas into tangible 
form? She can, once she secures confidence in herself, and the 
only way to gain confidence of course, is for her to go ahead 
and produce an article in wood, and through producing prove 
her ability. 

The carpentry in "Handicraft for Handy Girls" is of the 
simplest possible order, and requires few tools. A saw, a ham- 
mer, a screw-driver, and a plane, will perform most of the oper- 
ations, and a plane is not always necessary. Many of the 
articles, such, for example, as the Cretonne-Covered Carpentry 
in Chapter 7, can be built with simply a saw and a hammer, 
because with a neatly put on covering of cretonne, little does 
it matter whether the box boards or other boards used have 
rough surfaces or smooth, they will be concealed. If assistance 
is needed in building a work-bench, in putting up the stick 
framework of the Brush-Hut in Chapter 38, or in other work, a 
girl usually has enough influence with father or brother to get 
a helping hand when occasion arises. 

Following the plan of the boys' handy books, "Handicraft 



INTRODUCTORY NOTES vii 

for Handy Girls" has been prepared with the purpose uppermost 
in mind to encourage the utilization of materials to be found 
at home, especially those which are ordinarily classed as waste. 
Through making use of pick-up materials, a girl will learn 
to be thrifty and resourceful; she will discover that it is not 
always necessary to spend money to make things that are worth 
money; and with such lessons in economy practised, the train- 
ing should be invaluable. And the book should bring relief to 
parents who have had the experience that the average pastime 
in which their daughters become interested causes a drain upon 
the home purse, without being of value aside from providing a 
means of entertainment. 

Thanks are due Miss Cecelia Farwell, Editor of "Wohelo," 
for her courtesy in editing the material in Chapter 34 describing 
the activities of Camp Fire Girls; to Miss Mary S. Christie 
of the Hawthorne School, Waterloo, Iowa, and to Mr. Frank 
H. Ball, Director, Industrial Education, Pittsburgh, for Bird- 
House Photographs; to the publishers of the Ladies' Home 
Journal, and Woman's Home Companion for returning original 
drawings for such of the authors' articles as have appeared in 
these publications. 



A. N. H. 



Elmhurst, Illinois, 

October i6, 1916, 




PART I 
AUTUMN AND WINTER HANDICRAFT 

CHAPTER I PAGE 

Carpentry that a Girl Can Do 1 

Driving Nails — Use a Hammer that is not too Heavy — Pointers 
about Nailing — Sizes of Nails to -Use — When Driving Nails 
into Thin Wood — Holes should be Started in Hard Wood — To 
Support Short Nails — When a Nail Bends — Withdrawing a 
Nail — Right and Wrong Nailing — Clinching Nails — Toe- 
Nailing — Blind-Nailing — Driving Screws — To Withdraw a 
Rusted Screw — Sawing — The Principal Tools that a Girl will 
Use — Cutting Large Holes — Cutting Slots — You must have a 
Work-Bench — A Table Work-Bench — An Improvised Vise — A 
Bench-Stop — A Packing-Box Work-Bench — The Bench-Vise — 
Ways to Improve the Work-Bench — A Bench with an Iron Vise — 
The Bench- Vise — Fastening the Bench to the Floor — An Excellent 
Tool-Cabinet — A Good Rack for Bits and Chisels — An Excellent 
Nail-Box — To Divide a Board into a Number of Equal Parts — 
Gauging with a Rule and Pencil — When Marking out Work. 

CHAPTER II 
Small Gifts Made of Wood 22 

Materials — Methods of Finishing — A Thermometer-Board — 
A Key-Board — A Spool-Holder — A Spool-Rack — A Simpler 
Spool-Rack — A Paper-Spindle. 

ix 



X CONTENTS 

PAGE 

CHAPTER III 
Household Gifts 28 

A Tool-Rack — A Bottle- Rack — A Milk-Card Rack — A Handy 
Safety-Match Holder — A Scrub-Pail Platform — A Flat-Iron 
Rest — A Winter Window Refrigerator — Finishing. 

CHAPTER IV 
Spool Gifts 37 

Materials Required — A Candle-Stick — Finishing — A Desk 
Calendar — A Stationery- Rack — A Pen-Rack — A Desk Blotter 

— A Paper-Knife — A Paper-Spindle — A Toothpick Holder — A 
Ripper — A Hatpin-Holder — A Necktie- Rack. 

CHAPTER V 
Gifts Made of Paper and Cardboard. ..... 45 

Inexpensive Materials — If you Want to Earn Pocket-Money — 
A Football Calendar — A Blotter-Pad — A Japanese Pin-Cushion 

— A Heart-Shaped Needle-Book — A Book-Marker — A Corner 
Book-Marker — A Pin-Case — A Black-Cat Match-Scratcher — 
Candle-Sticks — A Simple Candle-Stick — Another Design for a 
Candle-Stick — A Candle-Stick with a Shade — A Candle Shade — 
Decorating the Cardboard — A Desk Calendar — A Perpetual Cal- 
endar — Another Form of Perpetual Calendar — A Recipe Cabinet 

— Indexed Guide-Cards, 



CHAPTER VI 
Cretonne Gifts 67 

A Pair of Book-Ends — For the Covering — A Twine-Holder — 
A Hanging Work-Box — A Dainty Telephone-Book — A Music- 
Case — A Dresser Set — A Hatpin-Holder — A Pin-Cushion — A 
Hanging Pin-Cushion — A Glove-Box — A Brush-and-Comb Tray 
— A Dainty Trinket Chest — A Home Utility-Box — A Twine-Box. 



CONTENTS xi 

PACE 

CHAPTER VII 
Cretonne-Covered Carpentry 81 

A Fancywork Box — Covering — A Cloth Pocket and Elastic 
Tapes — A Spool-Rack — A Fancywork-Box with Legs — Putting 
on the Cretonne — A More Elaborate Fancywork-Box — Putting 
on the Cretonne — A Portable Writing-Desk — A Rack for Sta- 
tionery — Pen and Pencil Racks — An Ink-Bottle Pocket — The 
Drop-Leaf — A Handle for Carrying — A Waste- Basket — The 
Outside Cretonne Covering — A Shirt-Waist Box — Covering the 
Box — Handles and Castors — A Shoe-Blacking Case — An Attrac- 
tive Footstool — Covering the Case — A Set of Book-Shelves — 
How the Spools are Strung — Covering with Cretonne — A 
Bolster-Roll — Covering the Framework. 

CHAPTER VIII 
Home-Made Frames for Small Pictures 99 

A Frame Made from a Candy-Box Cover — A Frame Made from 
a Pill-Box — A Double Cardboard Frame — A Cretonne-Covered 
Frame — A Unique Glass Frame — Other Ideas for Home-made 
Frames. 



CHAPTER IX 
Basket Making 105 

Prairie-Grass Baskets — To Prepare the Grass Rope — To 
Begin the Basket — Making the Handle — Other Forms of Grass 
Baskets — A Basket with a Forked Handle — A Raffia Basket — 
The Handles — Another Raffia Basket — A Hat- Braid and Reed 
Basket — Making Things of Paper Rope — Cardboard Boxes for 
Foundations — Strands of Paper Rope — To Prepare the Rope 
Strands — A Paper- Rope Serving-Tray — Putting on the Paper- 
Rope Covering — The Inside of the Tray Bottom — The Wire 
Handles — A Paper-Rope Jewel-Box — A Paper- Rope Basket — 
The Same Basket with a Different Handle — A Pretty Hanging- 
Basket — A Woven Paper- Rope Basket — Shellacking the Paper- 
Rope Baskets. 



xii CONTENTS 

PACE 

CHAPTER X 
Corn-Starch Jewelry 119 

Materials — To Color the Materials — Mixing the Corn-Starch 
with Water — Fancy Hatpins — A Bracelet — A Watch-fob — 
A Pendant — A Lavalliere. 

CHAPTER XI 
Home-Made Pottery 124 

Modeling Clay — A Board to Work Upon — A Jar — A Candle 
Stick — A Cardboard "Templet" — A Candle-Stick with a Han- 
dle — The Handle — A Bowl — Three Other Shapes of Bowls — 
A Jug — Two Vases — A Table Lamp — Ornamenting Pottery — 
Glazing and Firing — Waterproofing Potterj' — Keeping Unfinished 
Pottery. 

CHAPTER Xn 
Home China-Painting 132 

China Painting Easy to Learn at Home — Conv^entional China 
Decoration — The Equipment Necessary for Painting — China 
Firing — A Beginner's Course in China-Painting — A Bud-Holder 
and its Decoration — Copying the Design — To Divide the Cir- 
cumference — A Careful Tracing — Transfering the Design — 
The Outline Correctly Transferred — Trace the Design upon the 
Other Divisions — Rubbing the Lines with Emery-Paper — Out- 
lining — Ready for the First Firing — Mixing the Colors — Paint- 
ing — A Plate — Using the Brass Gauge — Laying out the Design 
— Putting on Gold — Burnishing the Gold — Tinting — Patting 
the Tint — Wiping — Painting the Flowers and Leaves — A 
Vase — Colors to Use — A Small Bowl — A Bowl with Feet — 
A Cup and Saucer — Adapting Designs. 

CHAPTER XHI 

How TO Copy Pictures ........ 148 

A Glass Reflecting-Frame — To Make a Copy of a Picture — 
Enlarging and Reducing by Squares. 



CONTENTS xiii 



CHAPTER XIV 

Home-Made Rubber-Stamps 153 

Flat Pieces of Rubber are Needed — Material Required in Addi- 
tion to the Rubber — A "Letter" Rubber-Stamp — Carving out 
the Letter — Making a Proof of the Letter — To Complete the 
Rubber-Stamp — A "Word" Rubber- Stamp — Picture Rubber- 
Stamps — "Mule" Rubber-Stamps — Rubber-Stamp Holders — 
A "Little Girl" Rubber-Stamps — Other Sets of Rubber-Stamps. 



CHAPTER XV 

ScRAP-BooKS, Book- Jackets and Other Ideas .... 158 
Home-Made Scrap-Books — The Covers — The Scrap-Book 
Leaves — Preparing the Front Cover — The Back Cover — Punch- 
ing the Leaves — Indexing the Pages — Lacing Together the Covers 
and Leaves — Finishing the Covers — A Scrap-Book Made Like a 
Letter-File — Book-Jackets — Paper Jackets — Cloth Jackets — 
Lettering the Book Title — A Canvas Jacket — Cloth Pencil-Cases 
— Another Style of Case — A Pen- Wiper — A Drawing-Instrument 
Protector. 



CHAPTER XVI 

A Hat-Box Doll Apartment 172 

The Hat-Box — How to Prepare the Box — Reinforcing the 
Corner — The Dining- Room — The Bedroom — The Living- Room 

— Locating and Marking out Doors and Windows — The Dining- 
Room Woodwork — A Wainscoting — A Buffet — The Bedroom 
Walls — A Picture-Molding — Pictures — Curtains — The Living- 
Room Walls — Doll Furniture — Chairs — A Living- Room Table 

— A Dining- Room Table — A Bedroom Table — A Four- Poster 
Bed — Rugs. 

CHAPTER XVII 

Cardboard-Box Doll Furniture . . . . . .179 

A Doll- Bed — A Table — A Table of More Elaborate Design — 
An Arm-Chair — A Straight-Back Chair. 



xiv CONTENTS 

PAGE 

CHAPTER XVIII 
A Dancing Doll 184 

The Materials — Preparing the Parts of the Doll — Assembling 
the Parts — The Standard — Dressing the Doll — Making the 
Doll Dance — A Doll's Dancing Party. 

CHAPTER XIX 

Toy Whirligigs .......... 188 

A Paddle Whirligig — To Operate the Toy — A Speeding Auto- 
mobile — A Buzz- Saw Whirligig ■ — A Magic Pinwheel Whirligig. 



CHAPTER XX 
A Postcard Colorscope 193 

The Colorscope Case — The Holder for Postcards — The Color 
Screen — Mounting the Color Screen Disk — Operating the Color- 
scope. 

CHAPTER XXI 
A Home Moving-Picture Show 198 

The Support for the Picture Screen — Picture-Rollers — Picture 
Strips — Selection of Pictures — To Complete the Picture Theater 
— Reeling the Pictures from One Roller onto the Other. 



CHAPTER XXII 
A Home-Made Telephone 203 

Not the Kind of Telephone the Boys Make — The Telephone 
Instruments — Preparing them out of Tin Cans — The Telephone 
Wire — An Excellent Telephone Booth — Making it Like a Real 
Telephone Booth. 



CONTENTS XV 

TAGK 

CHAPTER XXIII 

Fun for Hallowe'en 208 

An Invitation — Jack Pumpkinhead — The Pumpkin Jack- 
O'Lantern Head — The Framework — Jack's Blouse — Buttons — 
A Pleated Collar — A Staff — A Ghost — The Head — The Body 
Framework — The Ghost's Gown — The Hood — A Witch — A 
Witch to Tell Fortunes — A Witch's Wigwam — A Make-Believe- 
Fire — A Moonlight Effect — A Witch's Caldron — A Witch's 
Cavern — Stunts for the Evening's Entertainment — Fortune- 
Telling — Another Idea for Fortune-Telling — Other Ways of 
Telling Fortunes — The Twirling Pumpkin — Ghost-Story Telling 

— Pinning the Tail upon the Witch's Cat — The Tails — A Dough- 
nut-Eating Contest — Choosing Partners for Supper — Invisible 
Ink — Table Favors. 

CHAPTER XXIV 
A Handicraft Booth for a Fair ...... 222 

A New Idea for a Class of Girls — How to Construct the Booth — 
The Counter Boards — The Canopy Framework — Covering the 
Framework — Cardboard Lanterns — Covering the Counter. 

CHAPTER XXV 

A Japanese Garden 227 

The Bake-Pan Foundation — A Number of Arrangements — 
A Good Plan — A Pond — Planting the Japanese Grass-Seed — A 
Japanese House — A Japanese Bridge — Lamps — A Bird-House 

— Ducks — Other Garden Accessories. 

CHAPTER XXVI 
Holiday Table Decoration 233 

A Pilgrim's Homestead — The Cabin — The Cabin Walls — 
Door and Window Openings — Laying up the Wall Logs — The 
Stick Chimney — The Roof — A Foundation for the Homestead — 
A Pond — Planting the Trees — A Rail Fence — Adding a Wintry 
Effect to the Scene — The Pilgrim Father — A Santa Claus Castle 



x^i CONTENTS 

PAGB 

— The Mountain — The Lower Portion of the Castle — The 
Lower Tower — The Upper Tower — Windows — A Flag-Pole — 
The Mountain-side — A Snow Effect — A Trail — Making the 
Snow Sparkle — Trees — Santa Claus' Aeroplane — A Pattern 
for Santa Claus — An Orange Basket — A Water Lily — A Cin- 
namon Bear — A Hound — A Turtle — Candy Jim — Baskets for 
Candy Dainties — An Eight-Corner Basket — A Heart-Shaped 
Basket — A Basket with Pinched Corners. 

CHAPTER XXVn 
Home- Made Ornaments for the Christmas- Tree. . . . 249 

A Base for the Tree — Material Required — Pocket to Receive 
the End of the Tree — Another Pocket — Slanting the Sides — 
Covering the Base — A Spear Ornament — A Star Ornament — 
Ornamental Chains — Popcorn Strung on Thread — Strings of 
Bits of Colored Paper on Thread — Strings of Cranberries and 
Glass Beads — A Rubber-Ball Ornament — An Egg-Shell Orna- 
ment — A Home-Made Candle-Holder — Santa Claus Dolls — 
An Airship Ornament — Tarlatan Stockings — Cornicopias — 
Goblins. 



PART II 
SPRING AND SUMMER HANDICRAFT 

CHAPTER XXVni 

Home-made Bird-houses ........ 263 

Bird-House Building Campaigns — What you Can Do for the 
Birds — The American Bird-House League — Houses that Attract 
Tenants — The Right Dimensions to Use — A Chart of Correct 
Dimensions — Materials for Bird-House Building — A Bird 
Temple — A Box Bird-House — Another Box Bird-House — A 
Bird Tower — A Tin-Can Bird Tower — A Bird Castle — A Bird 
Ark — A Wall Bracket Bird Ark — A House and Swing — A Hang- 
ing House — A Shelter — A Bird Bath — Miscellaneous Notes — 
Where to Set Tin-Can Bird-Houses — Preventing Drafts — Ven- 
tilation — Water-tight Roofs — Finishing — Protection for Houses. 



CONTENTS xvii 



CHAPTER XXIX 

Garden Handicraft 279 

Miniature Greenhouses — A Greenhouse with a Lean-to Roof — 
A Greenhouse with a Gable Roof — A Cake-Tin to Catch Drippings 

— Painting — FilHng — Planting Seeds — Garden Ideas — A Dib- 
ble — Protection of Transplantings — A Paper-Funnel Shield — 
A Flower-Pot .Shield — A Basket Shield — Garden Markers — 
A Small Sprinkler — An Umbrella Bower — A Barrel-hoop Bower 

— Putting up Strings for Vines — A Trellis — A More Elaborate 
Trellis — A Sweet Peas Trellis — A Weeding Stool — A Weed 
Receptacle — A Set of Garden Steps. 

CHAPTER XXX 

Hanging-Baskets and Flower-Boxes ...... 294 

A Tin-Funnel Basket — Painting the Tin — A Colander Basket — 
A Rustic Basket — An Egg-Basket Flower Basket — A Flower- 
Pot Basket — A Two-Pot Basket — A Box Basket — Another 
Box Basket — A Rustic Basket — A Window Flower-Box — A 
Window or Porch Balustrade Box — A Corner Box for a Porch 
Railing — A Plant-Box — Painting Flower-Boxes. 

CHAPTER XXXI 
May-Baskets 309 

Distributing May-Baskets — A Cornucopia Basket — A Basket 
Made of a Writing-Paper Box — A Hooded Basket — A Cylindrical 
Holder — Filling May-Baskets. 

CHAPTER XXXII 

A Vacation Record-book . . . 314 

Vacation Notes — A Loose-Leaf Record-Book — The Loose 
Leaves — A Shoe-String Lacing — Making a Diary of the First Parti 

— Field Notes — Spatterwork Leaf Records — How to Make a 
Spatterwork Picture — Leaf Impressions — Making Impressions — 
Inpressions of Flowers — Impressions in Color — Lettering the 
Names — A Record of Bird-House Tenants — A Wild-Bird Record 

— A Bird Chart. 



xviii CONTENTS 

PAGB 

CHAPTER XXXIII 
A Herbarium . . . . . . . . . . 322 

Gathering Wild Flowers — A Letter-File for Specimens — A 
Press — Material for Placing Specimens between for Pressing — 
Transferring Specimens to the Herbarium Sheets — Filing Speci- 
mens — Index Tabs. 

CHAPTER XXXIV 
Camp Fire Girls Camp Craft ....... 327 

The Camp Fire Girls Organization — The Law of the Council 
Fire — The Watchword — To Become a Camp Fire Girl — Wood 
Gatherer — Fire Maker — The Seven Crafts of Camp Fire — 
Torch Bearer — Blue Birds — Guardian of the Fire — Hiking and 
Camping — Light-Weight Clothing — Keeping the Feet in Good 
Condition — A Home-Made Knapsack — Material — Duffle Bags 

— Knife-Sheaths — Packing the Knapsack — Losing One's Way — 
Blazing a Trail — A Wrist-Watch as a Compass — The Stars as 
Guides — How to Fold a Paper Cup — Making an "A" Tent — 
The Ridge-Pole and Uprights — Tent-Stakes — Where to Pitch 
the Tent — A Tent Ground-Cloth — A Pine-Bough Mattress — A 
Sleeping- Bag — A Wall-Tent — An Open Fire — A Backwoods- 
man's Fireplace — Pot-Hooks — A Camp-fire Crane — A Sheet 
iron Camp Stove — A Camp Fireless-Cooker — A Wash-Shelf — 
A Camp Broom — A Camp Shovel — A Camp Candle-Stick — 
A Mosquito Head-Net. 

CHAPTER XXXV 
Knots and Hitches 348 

The Importance of Knowing How to Tie Knots — The Three 
Parts of a Rope — The Overhand Knot — The Square Knot — 
The Granny Knot — The Figure Eight Knot — The Fisherman's 
Knot — The Bowline — The Sheet Bend — The Blackwall Hitch — 
The Catspaw — The Half-Hitch — The Timber Hitch — The Tim- 
ber Hitch and Half-Hitch — The Clove Hitch — The Marling Hitch 

— The Sheepshank. 



CONTENTS xix 

PAGE 

CHAPTER XXXVI 
A Home-Made American Flag 354 

The Pride One Takes in One's Home-made Flag — Standardized 
Proportions — Red, White and Blue Bunting — The Seams be- 
tween the Stripes — Joining the Blue Field — Canvas Binding for 
the Staff Edge — Grommets — Cutting the Stars — A Pattern for 
the Five-Pointed Stars — Sewing the Stars in Place — The Flag-Pole 

— Fastening the Pole to a Window-Sill — Stays, 

CHAPTER XXXVH 
Play Stores 361 

Playing Store — An Attractive Lemonade-Stand — How to 
Build the Stand — The Umbrella Top — Decorating the Top — 
Covering the Counter — Neatness — A Play Store — A Board 
Counter — The Canopy — The Canopy Covering — Enclosing the 
Front and Ends — A Set of Scale-Balances — Weighing-Tray — 
Weights. 

CHAPTER XXXVni 

Play-Houses 370 

An Umbrella Play-Tent — Attaching the Umbrella-Handle to 
a Chair-Back — Twine Braces — The Cloth Covering — A Cup- 
board — Tepees for an Indian Encampment — The Tepee Frame- 
work — Paper Poles — A Kettle Tripod — A Kettle — The Make- 
Believe Camp Fire — Other Things which can be Built with Paper 
Tubes — A Brush-Hut — The Framework — To Begin the Frame- 
work — The Door-Frame — Window-Frames — The Framework 
Strings — Covering Material — The Weaving — The Roof Cover- 
ing — Stuffing up Openings. 

CHAPTER XXXIX 
Berry-Box and Basket Toys 383 

The Working Materials — A Cradle — A Table — A Chair — 
A Dresser — A Swinging Seat — A Sofa — Another Style of Chair 

— A Footstool — A Rocker — Another Style of Table — A Wagon 

— A Doll Carriage — A Swing — The Swing Seat. 



XX CONTENTS 

PAGE 

CHAPTER XL 
A Fly-trap 392 

A Fly-Exterminating Campaign — An Excellent Trap — The 
Outer Cage — The Inner Conical Cage — How to Fit the Inner Cage 
Inside the Outer Cage — A Bait Tray — Baiting the Trap. 

Index 399 



LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 

(In addition to more than 700 text illustrations.) 



PART I 



A Camp Fire Girl Working at her Handicraft 



Frofitispiece 

OPPOSITE PAGE 



Fig. 17. — You Must Have a Work-Bench if that Bench be Nothing 

more Than a Kitchen Table 
Fig. 18. — A Kitchen Table with Its Improvised Top Clamped on 
Fig. 32. — A Thermometer Board 
Fig. 33. — A Key- Board 
Fig. 34. — A Spool Holder 
Fig. 35. — A Spool- Rack 

Fig. 36. — The Three Parts of the Spool Rack 
Fig. 53. — A Candle-Stick 
Fig. 54. — A Desk Calendar 
Fig. 55. — A Stationery- Rack 
Fig. 56. — A Pen- Rack 
Fig. 57. — A Desk Blotter 
Fig. 58. — A Paper- Knife 
Fig. 206. — A Grass Basket 
Fig. 207. — A Raffia Basket 
Fig. 208. — A Raffia Basket 
Fig. 209. — A Hat-Braid Basket 
Fig. 210. — A Paper-Rope Basket 
Fig. 211. — A Woven Paper Rope Basket 
Fig. 235. — A Jar 
Fig. 236. — A Candle-Stick 
Fig. 237. — A Bowl ;• 

Fig. 238. — A Jug 
Fig. 239. — A Table Lamp 



12 ^ 



24 v/' 



38 y 



108 



/ 



126 



xxii LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 

OPPOSITE PAGE 

Fig. 253. — A Bud Holder y ' 

Fig. 254. — A Vase I 134 -' 

Fig. 255. — A Bowl [ 
Fig. 256. —A Bowl ^ 
Fig. 257. —A Plate \ 144 v- 



1 



172^ 



Fig. 258. — A Cup and Saucer 

Fig. 315. — The Open Halves of the Hat Box Showing One Half Fur- 
nished as a Dining-Room, and the Other Half as a Bedroom 
Fig. 316. — View Opposite to that in Fig. 315, Showing the Space 

Between the Halves Furnished as a Living-Room. 
Fig. 317. — After Playtime the Halves are Folded into their Original 

Box Form, and the Cover Put on to Hold them Together. 
Fig. 370. — Jack Pumpkinhead ] 

Fig. 371. —Witch Hazel [ 208 

Fig. 372. — Make no Two of Your Pumpkin-Head Lanterns Alike j 
Fig. 373. — The Witch's Wigwam, Caldron, and Make-believe Fire . 212 

PART n 

Bird Houses Built by Pupils of the Hawthorne School, Waterloo, Iowa . 263 

Bird Houses Entered in a Contest Held by the Pittsburgh Public Schools 264 

Fig. 493. — A Bird Tower 

Fig. 494. — A Bird Castle 

Fig. 495. — A Bird Ark 

Fig. 496. — A House and Swing 

Robin Photos, from Mr. Hall's Vacation Record-Book . . . 320 

Camp Fire Girls' Grand Council 

An Indoor Camp Fire Council 

Saluting the Dawn 

Making Fire Without Matches 

A Wall Tent, Eight Feet by Ten Feet, with Fly 

A Wooden Floor Adds to the Comforts of the Tent 

A Nature Lesson 

Camp Fire Girls Gathering Fagots 

Fig. 668. — A Play Indian Village with Newspaper Tepees and Kettle 

Tripod 374 

Fig. 682. — A Cradle 
Fig. 683. — A Table 

Fig. 684. — A Chair \ 384 

Fig. 685. — A Dresser 

Fig. 686. — A Swinging Seat 



270 



328 
334 
3 40 

344 




PART I 



Autumn an(lA/\^nicr 
Handicraft 




It is a mistaken idea that girls cannot drive a nail 
straight. I have seen a girl "drive home" a nail as 
expertly as any mechanic can, and the success with 
which girls are competing with boys in some of our 
manual-training schools is proof enough that with 
practical application and proper guidance any girl 
can become efficient in wood-working. The main 
reason for a girl's not succeeding in driving nails 
straight is lack of confidence, the result of having 
failed in her first attempts and, possibly, having 
pounded her fingers. Just as long as this distrust of 
one's self exists will the nails drive crooked, bend over, 
and fingers be mashed. The difficulty will be entirely 
eliminated if these simple directions are followed. 

Use a Hammer That is Not Too Heavy for your 
wrist muscles to control, hold it well out toward the 
end of the handle and swing it with a long, free stroke. 
And what is most important of all, keep your eyes 
riveted upon the head of the nail you are driving, 
from the instant 3^ou start to drive until the last stroke 
has been delivered. Do this and you will find that 
your hammer will strike the nail-head squarely with 



2 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

every blow; if you let your gaze become a bit unsteady, 
you will run art excellent chance of bruising some 
fingers. Never mind the hammer, watch the nail-head. 
Now, while we are on the subject, I am going to give 
you a few more 

Pointers about Nailing, which, besides making it 
possible for you to drive a nail straight, will enable 
you so to place it that it will not split the material 
into which it is driven. A bent nail is easily withdrawn, 
but a board split as the result of improper nailing 
seldom can be made to look "as good as new". The 
magic power of putty is limited, and too much depen- 
dence should not be placed on its concealing cracks 
which may be avoided with care. Nearly every time 
you split a piece of wood while nailing it is the result 
of one of three conditions — too large a nail, the wrong 
position for the nail, or carelessness in driving. 

Sizes of Nails to Use. The size of nail to use always 
depends upon the working material. Thin wood is 
more easily split than thick wood, soft wood more 
easily than hard wood, and very dry wood than wood 
which is not thoroughly seasoned; because there is 
not so strong a bond between the wood fiber of thin, 
soft, and very dry wood as between that of thick, 
hard, and "green" wood. 

When Driving Nails Into Thin "Wood, or close to 
the edges of boards, holes should first be started with 
an awl to lessen the danger of splitting. The holes 
should be smaller than the nails so that the nails will 



CARPENTRY THAT A GIRL CAN DO 3 

drive in securely, and it is a good plan, when the wood 
is very thin and delicate, to run the end of the awl into 
a bar of soap, to make it drill easily, without wedging 
the grain apart so as to split the wood. 

Holes Should be Started in Hard Wood, also, when 
slender nails such as brads are used, so that the nails 
will not have to be driven with force enough to make 
them bend over. The holes must be smaller than the nails. 

Figure 1 shows a good way 

To Support Short Nails with a pair of pincers while 
driving them, so as to prevent bending. This is also 





Fig. 2. 
How to Withdraw Nails. 



Fig. I. 

How to Support Short Slender Nails while 

Driving Them. 



a handy method of supporting nails too short to hold 
between the fingers. 

When a Nail Bends, after it has been driven part 
way in, it is quickest to withdraw it at once, and 
either hammer it out straight or replace it with another 



4 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

nail. If another nail driven across its path, or a knot 
has caused the nail to bend, shift the position of the 
second nail. By striking just right, a nail that bends 
can be driven in, but the point of the nail is likely to 
break out of the side of the board, making its withdrawal 
necessary anyway, so it is best to withdraw it in the 
first place. 

When a nail breaks out of the side of a piece of work, 
it must be removed by driving back its point until 
the head can be gripped with the claw of a hammer. 
Figure 2 shows how to protect the surface of a piece 
of work, when 

Withdrawing a Nail, by slipping a block of wood 
beneath the hammer head; this block gives you 
better leverage, also. For a long nail, start with a 
thin block, and then substitute thicker blocks as the 
nail withdraws. 

Figures 3, 4 and 5 show examples of 

Right and Wrong Nailing. To avoid splitting a 
board when driving a series of nails through it, do 
not place the nails in rows lengthwise of the grain. 
A nail acts as a wedge, and its tendency is to wedge 
apart the grain. Under favorable conditions, one 
nail will simply compress the grain sufficiently to 
make room for its passage; but if you drive two or 
more nails in a row between the same wood fibers, 
the probability is that the wood will split. 

If you use flat-sided nails, do not drive them broad- 
sides against the grain, but with the grain (Fig. 4). 



CARPENTRY THAT A GIRL CAN DO 




Figs. 3-12. — Right and Wrong Methods of Nailing. 



You must consider the lower board as well as the 
upper one. Taking the case shown in Fig. 3, for 
example, the nails would not split the upper piece if 



6 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

placed in a row, as shown, because they extend across 
the grain; but there would be a strong tendency for 
the lower piece to split, because the nails drive down 
between the same wood fibers. By staggering, or 
zig-zagging the nails as indicated in the right method, 
the trouble is entirely obviated. 

Figure 5 shows one of the worst possible forms of 
nailing — a tit-tat-toe arrangement, with the nails 
wedging apart the grain of both upper and lower 
pieces of wood. Any girl who has learned exactness 
is inclined to drive nails in this fashion. Notice how 
the nails are staggered in the right method, so that 
no two in rotation follow the same grain. 

There is a great tendency among girls to use too 
many nails in one place, which is a fault to overcome, 
because too many in one spot are as bad as too few, 
since they separate so many wood fibers that the wood 
becomes weakened. 

Clinching Nails. Nails should never be so long that 
their points will protrude from the under side of a 
piece of work, unless you wish to clinch them for the 
purpose of riveting the piece together, so to speak. 
Clinching should not be done on parts of nice work 
which will be exposed to view; instead, if there is any 
possibility of nails not holding, use screws. The ends of 
the nails can be clinched by laying the work upon the 
side of a hatchet, and then driving the nail so that the 
point will strike its hard surface (Fig. 6). The points will 
then bend over and drive tight up against the wood. 



CARPENTRY THAT A GIRL CAN DO 7 

Figure 7 shows the right and the wrong way of 
dinching. When you cHnch nails in the direction of 
the grain, the ends will drive into the wood; when 
you clinch them across the grain, the ends will not lie 
flat. If you clinch a nail by hammering over its end, 
bend it over a nail as shown in Fig. 8. In this way 
the point will sink into the wood. If you do not do 
this, the middle portion of the nail will drive in, and 
the point will stick up (Fig. 9). 

Figures 10 and 11 show two examples of 
Toe-Nailing. This form of nailing consists in driving 
nails diagonally into pieces of work. In Fig. 10 is 
shown an instance where toe-nailing is the only possible 
way to nail the ends of two uprights to a horizontal 
piece, while Fig. 11 shows how toe-nailing is done to 
drive one board up against another. It is sometimes 
convenient to toe-nail when the nails at hand are too 
long for a piece of work. 

Blind- Nailing is a form of toe-nailing generally used 
upon tongued-and- grooved boards, in which the nail- 
heads are concealed upon the edges of the boards, as 
shown in Fig. 12. 

Most of the rules given for nailing apply also to 
Driving Screws. When driving into hard wood or 
very thin wood, drill holes for the screws. It makes 
easier driving and eliminates the danger of splitting. 
The hole in the upper board should be a trifle larger 
than the diameter of the screw, so that the screw will 
not bind in it; and the hole in the lower board should 



8 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

be a trifle smaller than the screw, so that the screw 
will thread its way Into the wood and take a good hold. 

Screws will drive more easily If they are soaped, 
that is, pushed into a piece of soap so as to coat the 
threads with grease. 

To Withdraw a Rusted Screw. When a screw has 
become rusted, to strike its head a few blows with a 
hammer will help to loosen it. A red-hot iron held to 
the screw-head for a few seconds will also help. 

After learning how to drive nails and screws, the 
next lesson should be In 

Sawing. A 20- to 24-inch cross-cut hand-saw is 
about the right length for a girl's use, and with the 
addition of a small pointed saw will serve almost every 
purpose. The principal difficulty that a girl exper- 
iences in sawing — that of keeping to a straight line — 
is due to taking a wrong position. The proper way 
to saw off a piece of board Is to place It across a 
couple of boxes (Fig. 13), then, with the left knee 
raised and pressed against It, to hold the board In 
position, grasp the saw with the right hand, and place 
the left hand over the edge close up against the mark 
for sawing (Fig. 14), so that It will act as a guide to 
the saw In starting the cut. Without the thumb guide, 
the saw is likely to slip off of the mark to one side or 
the other. First use a few short strokes to start 
the cut, then use a long steady stroke, putting all the 
pressure upon the down stroke; and, to keep to the 
line, and to make a square cut, hold your head over 



CARPENTRY THAT A GIRL CAN DO 



the saw blade so that at all times you can sight along 
the entire length of the blade. If the saw starts to 




Fig. 13 — Position to Take for Sawing. 

Fig. 14 — How to Guide the Saw with Your Thumb. 

run away from the line, a slight twist of the blade to 
one side or the other will turn it back into the right 
path. 

When a board has been sawed nearly in two, remove 
the weight of your knee, and hold the end of the board 
with the left hand to prevent its splitting off. 

Several chapters might be given over to the handling 
of tools, but as 



lo HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

The Principal Tools That a Girl Will Use for her 
home carpentry are the hammer and the saw, I am 
going to let the above instruction suffice, with the 
suggestion that those of you who wish to go further 
into the study of tools, refer to the chapter on "Elemen- 
tary Manual Training" in Handicraft for Handy Boys, 
and that on "The Proper Handling of Tools" in The 
Boy Craftsman. In addition to the hammer and the 
saw, you will need from time to time a hatchet, a 
chisel, bit and bit-stock (for boring holes), screwdriver, 
square, ruler, pencil, and jack-knife. Probably father 
can lend you all these. 

Cutting Large Holes. You will want to bore holes, 
and oftentimes large holes. When you have a bit and 
bit-stock, the way to bore large holes is that shown in 
Fig. 15. In the illustration, A shows the size of the 
hole to be cut, B shows the first step in cutting it — 
boring a ring of small holes inside the circle, C shows 
the second step — splitting out the wood between the 
holes with a chisel, and D shows the finished hole, 
after the third operation — trimming up to the circle 
with the end of the chisel. 

Cutting Slots is done in a similar manner (Fig. 16). 
First, mark out the slot A ; then bore a hole at each 
end, and one or more between them {B); then split 
out the wood between the holes ( C) ; and trim up the 
sides of the slot to the finished line with a chisel (D.) 

You must have a Work-bench if that bench be 
nothing more than the kitchen table between the times 



CARPENTRY THAT A GIRL CAN DO 



II 



of preparing meals. I have improvised a bench from 
a table on numerous occasions, while living in an 
apartment, and found 
it quite satisfactory. 
The table top must 
be protected so that 
cutting and hammer- 
ing will not injure it, 
and Figs. 17 and 18 
show 

A Table Work- 
bench both before 
and after the impro- 
vised bench-top has 
been clamped on, and 
Fig. 19 shows a detail 
of the top. Boards 
A and B must be cut 
off the length of the table. Nail B to the edge of A. 
Then to board A nail a l-by-2-inch strip along the 
lower edge (C), to the left-hand end nail the board D, 
and to board D nail the cross-piece E. Project the 
end of strip E to the right of block D, as shown, and 
you will have 

An Improvised Vise that will serve your purpose 
excellently. Make block D about IVs inches thick; 
then with the strip E projecting beyond it you will 
have a pocket deep enough to receive the end of any 
board of ordinary thickness. To use the vise, rest 





Fig. 15 — How to 
Cut Large Round 
Holes 



Fig. 16 — How to 
Cut Slots. 



12 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

the edge of your work upon strip C, and slide it along 
in back of strip E, and up against block D. Then, 
to hold the end of the work firmly, drive a wedge- 
shaped block similar to F (Fig. 19) in between the 
work and strip E. 

This vise will hold pieces of boards edgewise. To 
hold them flatwise upon the bench-top, 




Fig. 19 



fij ^BENCH 




Fig. 19 — Make a Bench-Top like this for the Table Work-Bench. 
Fig. 20 — Clamp the Ends of the Bench-Top to the Table, like this. 



A Bench-stop, or block with a "bird's mouth" cut 
in one edge {K, Fig. 19) must be nailed to the top of the 
bench at the left end to shove work against. 

The block L, shown upon the right end of board A 
(Fig. 19), must be of the right thickness to fill in the 
space between board A and the front of the table, 
when the top has been placed upon the table-top. 
Nail a similar block to the left-hand end and a third to 




Fig. 17. — You Must Have A Work-Bench if that Bench be Nothing more 
Than A Kitchen Table 




Fig. 18. — A Kitchen Table with its Improvised Top Clamped on 



CARPENTRY THAT A GIRL CAN DO 13 

the center of the board. These blocks will make 
board A rest solidly against the front of the table. 

To hold the bench-top to the table so that it will 
not slip, clamp the ends with a pair of iron clamps in 
the manner shown in Fig. 20. This clamping arrange- 
ment, of course, makes it possible to detach the bench- 
top quickly when you are through working. The 
bench-top can be stood in an out-of-the-way corner 
until wanted again. 



Fig 21 — A Work-Bench Made of Packing Boxes. 

If you wish, board B may be hinged to the edge of 
board A, so that the two may be folded one against the 
other, which will make them more compact for storing. 

If you have space in which you can keep a work- 
bench permanently, 



14 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

A Packing-box Work-bench like that in Fig. 21 Is a 
very simple bench to make, and will answer your 
purposes well. If you can get a pair of large packing- 
boxes of equal size, fasten them together side by side 
to make a long working surface; If not, a large box and 
a smaller one will do (Fig. 22). Nail the boxes together 




Fig. 22 — A Large and a Small Box may be Used for the Bench. 

as In Fig. 23; then nail boards H and / across the 
backs In the position shown, for braces. 

The Bench-vise for this bench may be made like 
that for the table work-bench. Make the same sort 
of a top, with the two boards nailed together, edge to 
edge, (Fig. 19) Then nail this to the top and front 
of the work-bench, and nail to the front board the block 
and strips which form the vise. 

You will find 

"Ways to improve your Work-bench from time to 



CARPENTRY THAT A GIRL CAN DO 



IS 



time. The Inside of the boxes may be equipped with 
racks and hooks for tools, and doors may be put on 
to enclose the front. But a still greater improvement 
will be to rebuild it, making 

A Bench with 
an Iron Vise like 
that sliown in 
Fig. 24. Perhaps 
father will have 
time to help you 
make this. The 
bench is built up 
of two boxes 20 
by 20 by 30 
Inches In size. 
Place both on 
end (Fig. 26), 
close together, 
and connect them with strips A (Figs. 24 and 25) 
on the bottom, with strips B and C across the back, 
with the board D across the top, even with the front, 
and with the board E across the front. Strips A, B 
and C need not be more than 3 or 4 inches wide. 
Board D should be 10 or 12 inches wide, as it forms the 
main working surface of the bench, and board E should 
be of the same width, as It forms the surface against 
which work is held when placed in the vise. 

Cut the diagonal brace F to fit between strips B 
and C, and nail it to the back of the bench. 




Fig. 23 
Nail Together the Boxes, and Brace as Shown. 



i6 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 24 — a Packing-Box Work-Bench 
and Tool-Cabinet. 




Fig. 25 — View of Back of Work-Bench 



CARPENTRY THAT A GIRL CAN DO 



17 



The Bench-vise is constructed at the left end of the 
bench. Cut the vertical board G to fit between the 
ends of the left-hand packing-box (Fig. 26), and, before 
nailing it in place, saw a 
piece 1>^ inches wide and 
6 inches long out of the 
lower end. This opening 
forms a pocket for the 
vise sliding-strip (Fig. 
28). 

The vise- jaw should be 
6 or 8 inches wide, 2 inches 
thick, and about 6 inches 
shorter than the bench- 
top (Fig. 28). The best 
way to bore the hole for 
the bench-screw is to nail 
the jaw, temporarily, to 
the front of the bench, in 
its proper position, with the top even with the bench- 
top, and then bore straight through it, through board E, 
and through board G. The hole through G will have 
to be cut larger than that through the jaw, to receive 
the iron socket (Fig. 27). This enlarging can be done 
with a chisel. 

Screw the iron socket to the inside face of board G, 
and screw the iron plate on the handle end of the 
bench-screw to the face of the jaw. For the sliding- 
strip (Fig. 28), cut a piece of board 3 or 4 inches wide 




Fig. 26 — The Board G Forms a Pocket 
for the Vise Sliding-Strip. 



18 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



and 18 inches long, bore a number of small holes through 
it Yi inch apart, and nail it to the left edge of the lower 
end of the jaw, at the proper height so it will slide 
through the opening in board G. Cut a wooden peg 
to fit the holes. 

The holes shown in the apron board E (Fig. 24) are 
bored for an adjustable peg to support the long pieces 

of work. 

Figures 24 and 25 show 
how to 

Fasten the Work-bench 
to the Floor with Hinges, 
an excellent way to pre- 
vent the bench from 
sliding over the floor 
while you work upon it. 
Do this, if there is no 
objection to driving the 
screws into the floor. 
One pair of hinges at 
the back, and another at the front, are enough. 

An Excellent Tool-cabinet can be made of the right- 
hand packing-box by hinging a door to the front, and 
providing racks and hooks for tools (Fig. 24). 

A Good Rack for Bits and Chisels can be made by 
notching the edge of a strip of wood, and screwing it 
to the door, as shown in Fig. 24. 
Figure 29 shows 
An Excellent Nail-box for work-bench use, and 




Fig. 28 

Figs. 27 and 28 — Details of Bench- 
Vise. 



CARPENTRY THAT A GIRL CAN DO 



19 



father and mother, too, will have many occasions to 
borrow from it. The box from which the illustration 
was made is a 10-cent knife-box with its two compart- 
ments sub-divided into six smaller compartments. 




Fig. 29 — a Nail-Box. 

each by means of pieces of tin bent over at the ends 
and tacked to the box sides. 

Did you ever have occasion 

To Divide a Board into a Number of Equal Parts, 
when its length was of an odd measurement? Figure 30 
shows how to do it quickly. Take a ruler and place 




Fig. 30 — How to Divide a Board into Equal Parts. 

it across the board with one end at one end of the 
board, and the inch measurement equal to some multiple 
of the number of divisions wanted, at the other end. 



20 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

Then mark off the division points, and rule Hnes 
across the board at these points. In the illustration, 
the board is divided into four equal parts, and to get 
the points, the end of the rule was placed at one edge 
of the board, and the 8-inch mark (a multiple of 4) at 
the opposite edge. Then the divisions were laid off 
along the rule, 2 inches apart. 




Fig. 31 — How to Gauge with a Rule and Pencil. 

Gauging with a Rule and Pencil. When a carpenter 
wishes to rip a strip, say 2 inches in width, from a 
board, he holds his folding-rule upon the board with 
his left hand, as in Fig. 31, with his first finger even 
with the 2-inch measurement; then, holding his pencil 
with the point against the end of the rule, he slides the 
rule along the board and draws a line that is parallel 



CARPENTRY THAT A GIRL CAN DO 21 

to and exactly 2 inches away from the edge. You 
will find this easy to do, as soon as you can get the 
knack of holding the first finger against the edge of the 
board, and the pencil against the end of the rule, and 
this is easily acquired with practice. 

When Marking Out Work, be very careful to get all 
your measurements exact, to draw exactly straight 
and true the lines that connect the points marked 
off, and then to finish close to these lines in cutting. 
You can accomplish this, with practice, and you will 
find it a pleasant task to do your work accurately. 




TJ 



CHAPTER II 

SMALL GIFTS MADE OF 
WOOD 




The articles illustrated in this chapter have been 
selected because of their usefulness and the ease with 
which a girl can make them. They are small articles 
of just the right size for Christmas and birthday gifts, 
and some of them you will want to make for your own 
room. 

The Materials required will cost so little that any of 
the articles will be inexpensive to make, and as all are 
of very simple construction they can be made easily 
and quickly. Pine, whitewood, basswood, and oak 
are the best woods to use, and if you want only enough 
material for one or two articles you can get it from a 
carpenter. Oftentimes, a carpenter has large-enough 
pieces in his scrap-pile to serve the purpose, and these 
he will gladly let you have if you will take the trouble 
to pick them out. 

There are a variety of 

Methods of Finishing woodwork, but for small 
articles nothing is nicer than a stain- and wax-finish. 
Prepared wood-stains of all colors can be purchased in 
small quantities at any paint store. 



22 



SMALL GIFTS MADE OF WOOD 



23 






The woodwork should be sandpapered smooth, and 
free from saw and plane markings; then the stain 
should be applied, and, after it has 
dried, a couple of coats of wax 
should be rubbed over the surface 
to give it a semi-gloss finish. Com- 
plete instructions for applying 
stains and wax accompany these 
materials. 

An open-grained wood, such as 
oak, is often jilled after it has been 
stained ; that is, the wood is brushed 
over with a liquid which fills up 
the grain flush with the surface; 
but filling is unnecessary for small 
articles, and really detracts from 
their appearance, because it con- 
ceals, more or less, the pretty mark- 
ings of the grain, 

The Thermometer-board illus- 
trated in Fig. 32 is a very practical 
little article that is needed in every 
house. The back board should be 
made of wood about M inch thick. 
Figure 37 shows a pattern for this, f^^- 37 — Detail of Ther- 

. , ,, , ,. . mometer- Board Shown 

With all the necessary dimensions -^^ p- 32 

for laying it out. First, draw the 

center-line as shown, then lay off the measurements 

each side of the line; this is the easiest way to get 




24 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

both sides alike. The curved ends should be cut with 
a small saw — a scroll-saw, a bracket-saw, or a coping- 
saw — and then be smoothed off with a wood-file and 
sandpaper. Bore a small hole through the board, 
near the top, for hanging It up. Do this before you 
have cut out the end; then there will be less danger of 
splitting the wood. You may screw a small brass 
screw-eye into the top of the board instead of boring 
the hole. If you wish. 

The little metal strip holding the thermometer can 
be purchased at any large stationery store, or depart- 
ment store, and will cost 15 or 20 cents, and a small 
calendar-pad can be purchased for a few cents at the 
same place. The thermometer for this size of board 
should be about ^ Inch wide and 5K Inches long, and 
the calendar IX inches wide by IX inches long. If you 
cannot find a thermometer and a calendar of these 
proportions. It may be necessary to alter the dimensions 
of the board, because the margin around them should 
be about the same as It is In the photograph (Fig. 32). 
Fasten the thermometer and calendar-pad to the 
board with brads. As the glass bulb and upper end of 
the thermometer generally project a trifle beyond the 
back of the metal strip, it will be necessary to hollow 
out places In the board for them to fit Into. 

The Key-board shown In Fig. 33 should be made of 
a piece of wood Vs Inch thick, by the other dimensions 
shown in the pattern (Fig. 38). After laying out, 
cutting, and planing up this piece, mark off a bevel 




Fig. 36. — The Three Parts of the Spool-rack. 





SMALL GIFTS MADE OF WOOD 25 

X inch wide around the face edges, and cut it with your 
plane. 

Lay off the positions for the hooks, following the 
measurements given in Fig. 3S, and then start the holes 

in these positions ^ .. _j 

with a brad-awl. [^]r-_j^r-^r-4-iy--^r-^^''^-'^-^ 

The screw - hooks *^ 

should be about 1 

inch in length. 

Screw screw -eyes 

into the top edge 

of the board, by 

which to hang it \ t — -s" H 

up- Fig. 38— Detail of Key-Board Shown in Fig. 33. 

A Spool -holder 

such as shown in Fig. 34 not only allows the spools 
to unwind the thread freely, but prevents them from 
rolling off on to the floor. 

The spool-rack should be made of wood not over 
H inch thick, and even cigar-box wood is not too thin. 
The base of the holder should be made of the size 
shown in Fig. 39. Bevel its top edges. The pattern 
for the end pieces is also shown in Fig. 39. Bore a 
hole in each large enough for a 4>^-inch nail to slip 
through. This nail forms an axle for the spool to 
turn upon. 

A Spool-rack like the one shown in Fig. 35 will be a 
greater convenience than the one just described, 
because it will hold twenty-six spools, each within 



26 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



easy reach when wanted. The upper and lower shelves 
of the rack are pivoted so as to turn on the base block, 
and, by this arrangement, when the rack is placed upon 
a table either shelf may be turned until the size of 
thread wanted is nearest. The rack is heavy enough 
to keep its position while the thread is unwound from 
a spool. 

Cut the base block A (Fig. 36) 3 inches square, 
B 6 inches square, and C 5 inches square; and bevel 




Fig. 39 — Details for the Spool-Holder Shown in Fig. 34. 



the upper edges of each. The center pin of block A 
is a 4-inch wire nail, the pins of block B are 2>^-inch 
nails, and the pins of block C are 2-inch nails. With a 
gimlet or drill, bore holes a trifle smaller than the nails 
through the three blocks before driving in the nails, so 
that the wood will not split. Lay off the positions for 
the nails with a ruler, first drawing a line around 



SMALL GIFTS MADE OF WOOD 27 

block B 1 inch away from the four edges, and another 
around block C Y^ inch away from the edges. The 
center pin should fit loosely enough in the holes in B 
and C so the blocks will turn easily upon it. 

A large spool should be slipped over the center pin, 
between blocks B and C, to support C. The upper 
rack must be lifted off to slip on and off the spools from 
the lower rack. 

A Simpler Spool-rack than the above may be made 
by omitting the upper block C. 

A Paper-spindle on which to file grocery bills, 
receipts, etc., for safe keeping, may be made similar 
to base A of the spool-rack (Fig. 36). The nail-pin of 
the paper-spindle must be filed to a long, sharp point, 
so that it will pierce papers easily. 




CHAPTER III 
HOUSEHOLD GIFTS 




Here are a few contrivances for the kitchen and 
pantry which will be appreciated by mother if made by 
her handy girl. Nothing better could be selected for 
her Christmas or birthday gift, and other relatives 
who keep house would appreciate them, too. 

The Tool-rack in Fig. 40 is most convenient when 
hung directly over the kitchen work-table. The length 
of the hook-strip will be determined by the space in 
which it is to hang, and by the number of forks, spoons, 
and other tools which it will be required to hold. 

The appearance of the rack will be improved by 
planing a bevel on the face edges of the hook strip and 
the end blocks, as in the illustration. Use brass screws 
or galvanized nails for hooks, and screw a screw-eye 
into the top edge of each end block to hang the rack by. 

The Bottle-rack in Fig. 41 will hold your mother's 
bottles of extract, catsup, sauces, and dressings, and 
eliminate the possibility of upsetting bottles when 
reaching for the one wanted. 

Narrow strips should be used for the division strips 
of the rack, to save space and make the rack light in 
weight. I.aths planed smooth on all sides will do for 

28 



HOUSEHOLD GIFTS 29 

the side and center strips, also for the cross strips. 
The ends must be about 3 inches wide. The lengths 
of the strips will be determined by the number of 
bottles which it will be required to hold, and you can 




Fig. 40 — a Kitchen Tool- Rack 

estimate the number after making an inventory of the 
bottles on your mother's pantry shelves. 

Be careful to cut like pieces of uniform size, so that 
they will fit together nicely. Also, be careful to make 
the pockets large enough so that the bottles will fit 
loosely in themi. Use brads for assembling, and 
fasten together the front and rear portions separately 
so that you can drive the brads through the long strips 
directly into the ends of the short cross strips (Fig. 42). 



3° 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




FiG.42 



Fig. 41. 
Fig. 42. 



A Pantry Bottle-Rack 
Detail of Rack 



Then connect the 
two frames by 
means of the end 
strips. Nail the 
bottom board to 
the under side of 
the end strips. 

The Milk-card 
Rack in Fig. 43 is 
prov i d e d with 
screw-eyes, to hang 
upon hooks outside 
of the door at 
which the morning milk is delivered. Figure 44 shows 
a pattern for the board, but because milk cards vary 
in size, you had better measure the card for which the 
board is to be used, to see that it fits, before you begin 
work. The margin around the card should be about 
as in Fig. 43. Bevel the edges of the board as shown. 
Then prepare the strip A (Fig. 44), and fasten it with 
brads along the lower edge of the board for the card to 
rest upon. Give the board two coats of shellac, 
varnish, or paint; then when it is dry screw four hooks 
into it at the points indicated {B, Fig. 44), to hold the 
edges of the card, and a pair of screw-eyes into the 
top edge, for hangers. 
Figure 45 shows 

A Handy Safety-match Holder. The cover of the 
safety-match box fits down over the block E (Fig. 48), 



HOUSEHOLD GIFTS 



31 



l-SSL 








CITY1\/ 

MOMTM 


hlKCO. 

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(4. No 


ST^ 


<':i^V"'::L ':: 




1 




2 




9 




4 




5 




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7 




3 




S 




10 




II 




|2 




13 




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■S 




•fc 




17 1 




IB 




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XI 




If 




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r 



Fig 43. — A Milk-Card Board 



Fig. 44. — Detail of Milk-Board 



32 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



to hold the matches and to provide the match-scratcher. 
And block E raises the match ends 1 inch above the 
cover, so that they will be handy to pick out. The 
safety-match box stands upon the lower shelf 5, 








JL. 



A 






>C 



C-^! 



B 



._.../. ; 



h- 



3^--H' 



Fig. 45. — a Safety-Match Holder 



Fig. 46. — Detail of Back-Board 



between ends C (Fig. 48), for a burnt-match receptacle 
(Fig. 45). 

The match-holder may be built up of cigar-box strips, 
or wood K or Vs, inch thick. Figure 46 shows a pattern 
for the back-board A, and Fig. 47 shows the pattern 
for the other parts. Fasten block E to shelf P, in the 



HOUSEHOLD GIFTS 



33 



center of its length, and about 15 of an inch inside of 
the back edge ; then nail B and D to the ends of pieces 
C (Fig. 48), so that their back edges are in a Hne with 
one another. Screw a pair of screw-eyes into the top 
of back-board A, for hangers. 

A Scrub-pail Platform like that in Fig. 49 saves the 
lifting of the scrub-pail from place to place while 
scrubbing, as it is provided with castors so that it may 
be pushed about upon the floor. This is a great 
strength-saver, and it is easily made. 




Fig. 48 



Fig. 47 
Figs. 47 and 48. — Details of Parts of Safety-Match Holder 

Figure 50 shows how the castors are screwed to the 
platform, and how strips are nailed to the edges, 
forming a rim that will prevent the pail from sliding off. 

The Flat-iron Rest (Fig. 51) is a convenience which 
any housekeeper will be glad to own. It is much 
handier than an inverted pie-plate or folded newspaper, 
to set an iron upon, and the sole of the iron may be 



34 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



cleaned by rubbing it on the piece of emery-paper 
fastened to one-half of the board. 

Cut the board about 8 by 12 inches in size, tack a 
piece of tin (a piece from a tomato-can will do) over the 




Fig, 49. — A Scrub-Pail Truck Fig. 50, — Fasten Four Castors 

to the Bottom of the Truck 

half which is to hold the iron, and a piece of No, 
sandpaper over the other half, and then tack narrow 

wooden strips 
around the edge 
of the tin for a 
rim. Screw a 
couple of screw- 
eyes into one end 
of the board by 
which to hang it 
up. 

The Winter 
Window Refrigerator (Fig. 52) should stand upon the 
sill of a north window, where it will be protected from 




Fig. 51. — A Flat-iron Rest 



HOUSEHOLD GIFTS 



35 



the sun's rays. The box is small, but is large enough 
to hold milk and cream bottles, and a butter jar. 

A grocery box will do for the refrigerator. Nail a 
narrow strip across the top near one edge, to hinge the 
cover to, and fasten together the cover boards with 
wooden strips screwed across them as in the illustration. 
After hinging the cover in place, screw an iron hinge- 
hasp to it, and an iron staple to the front of the box for 
it to hook on to; also 
fasten a piece of chain 
or heavy cord to nails 
driven into the box end 
and into the edge of 
the cover, to keep the 
cover from dropping 
back too far when 
opened. 

Fasten the refriger- 
ator box upon the 
window-sill, close to 
the window sash. Then, 
with the cover hasped, 
the box will be tramp- 
proof, because while the 
window is closed there 

will not be room enough between the box and the glass 
to raise the iron hasp. 

It is best to cover the top of the box with oilcloth 
so that it will be water-tight, and a lining of white oilcloth 




Fig. 52. — A Winter Window Refrigerator 



36 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

will make the Inside as spick and span appearing as a 
white enameled refrigerator. 

Bore a hole through each end of the box, so that 
there will be a constant circulation of air through the 
refrigerator, and tack a piece of screen wire over each 
hole so that nothing can crawl In. 

Finishing. Give each of the household articles a 
couple of coats of paint, after assembling It, and when 
mother sees the work she will be proud of her daughter 
carpenter. 

After the first coat of paint has dried, go over the 
work, and putty all cracks, joints, and nail-holes, 
before applying the second coat. If you prefer, you 
may shellac or varnish the articles, or finish the wood 
with one of the modern handicraft stains. Perhaps 
you will want to try different finishes upon the various 
articles. 




CHAPTER IV 
SPOOL GIFTS 




Every girl has right at hand the materials necessary 
for making splendid Christmas gifts, in the empty- 
spools from mother's and her own work-baskets, 
boards from grocery boxes, nails, and one or two other 
things that are to be found in every household. 

A handful of spools of assorted shapes and sizes will 
suggest a hundred possibilities for suitable gifts for 
each friend and relative whom you wish to remember. 
The illustrations in this chapter show a variety of 
useful articles, in the making of each of which one or 
more spools were used, and, once you start work upon 
duplicating these, you will discover quite as many more 
ideas for simple gifts. 

The Candle-stick in Fig. 53 is made by mounting a 

small silk-thread spool upon the end of a large ribbon 

spool, then mounting the ribbon spool upon a small 

square block. The base block may be cut from a box 

board. Make it about 1 inch wider each way than the 

diameter of the spool end, and nail it to the end of the 

spool as indicated in Fig. 59, with an equal projection 

all around the spool. Fasten the small spool to the 

end of the large spool with a short piece of pencil, or 

37 



38 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



^ 



a round peg whittled to the same size. Coat this 
piece of pencil or peg with glue, than push it through 
the hole in the small spool and down into the hole in 
the large spool, allowing about yi inch of its end to 

project above the top of the 
short spool. A hole just large 
enough for this peg to fit 
snugly in must be cut in the 
end of the candle (Fig. 59). 
Heat the top of the pencil be- 
fore pressing the candle upon 
it, to make the candle stick. 

Finishing. A brown stain 
produces a pretty finish for 
articles made of spools. A 
small quantity can be pur- 
chased from a paint dealer for 
ten or fifteen cents. Follow 
the directions that accompany 
it. An application of nothing 
but boiled linseed oil also 
makes a pretty finish. 

After staining the candle- 
stick, glue a piece of felt to 
the under side of the base to 
prevent its scratching surfaces 
that it is placed upon. 
The Desk Calendar shown in Fig. 54 requires a 
small calendar-pad, a block upon which to mount the 



c 



SS- 



D 



^^ 




Fig. 59. — How the Candle- 
Stick is Put Together 




Pig. 53. — A Candle-Stick 



Fig. 55.— a Station eky-Kack 



SPOOL GIFTS 



39 



pad, and two short silk-thread spools for feet. A 
calendar-pad 2 inches wide and 3 inches long will cost 
five cents. 

Cut the back block out of a box-board, enough larger 
than the pad to make a J^-inch margin all around it. 
Nail spool feet to the 
lower edge of the back 
(Fig. 60), and fasten 
the calendar in place 
with small tacks. 

The Stationery-rack 
(Fig. 55) is built up 
of four cotton-thread 
spools of equal size, four 
short silk-thread spools 

of equal size, and a piece Fig. 60. — How the Spool Feet are 
CI 1 J -7 • u Attached to the Calendar Board 

of a box board 3 mcnes 

wide by 5 inches long. First, nail the piece of board 
to the ends of the four long spools, then nail the four 
short spools to the other side of the board, directly 
under the long spools, for feet. Bits of felt may be 
glued to the under side of the feet, to prevent them 
from scratching. 

The Pen-rack shown in Fig. 56 is made of a strip of 
wood 6 inches long, ^< inch wide, and ^ inch thick 
(Fig. 61), with a medium-sized spool mounted upon 
each end. Cut the strip slanted on the ends, and nail 
to the sides of the spools in the manner shown in 
Fig. 61. 




40 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Only one spool is used for 

The Desk Blotter (Fig. 57), that one forming the 
handle (A, Fig. 62). The base block (B, Fig. 62) is a 
piece of a box- 
board 2}^ inches 
by 5 inches in- 
size, and the 
block C is 2}4 in- 
ches long and 1 
inch wide. Get 
a screw long 
enough to ex- 
tend through 




Fig. 61, — Nail the Base of the Pen- Rack to the 
Sides of the Spools, like this 



handle A , through block C, 
and part way into base 
block B (a screw with a 
round head will look neat- 
est,) and screw the three 
pieces together. If the 
screw-head is smaller than 
the hole in the spool handle, 
support it by a small metal 
washer slipped over the 
screw. 

Figure 62 shows how the 
blotter is cut to fit the 
bottom of the base block, 
Fig. 62.-Biock'c holds the Blotter ^nd folded up over the end 

of the Blotter- Pad in Place tO the Center of the tOp. 




SPOOL GIFTS 



41 



The ends are held to the base by block C. To 
release the ends for changing the blotter, it is only nec- 
essary to give block C a half turn, so that it extends 
lengthwise of the base block. Pad the blotter with an 
extra piece of blotting-paper slipped between it and 
base block B. 

One end of the spool used for the handle of 

The Paper-knife (Fig. 58) must be whittled down 
until even with the 
sides. Cut the 
knife blade from 
a stick, and make 
it about 7 inches 
long and K inch 
wide, with its edges 
whittled thin and 
sharp. Cut the 
handle end to fit 
the hole in the 
spool handle, and 
fasten it in this 
hole with glue. 

The Paper-spin- 
dle (Fig. 63) is of a 

convenient size for a desk. A 4-inch wire nail, a short 
silk-thread spool, a base block 2 inches square, and a 
piece of felt for the under side of the base, are the mate- 
rials you need to make it. Enlarge the opening in one 
end of the spool so the head of the nail will fit down 




Fig. 63. — A Paper-Spindle 



42 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



into It. Then drop the nail through the hole, nail the 
base to the under side of the spool, and glue the felt to 
the base. 




Fig. 66. — Glue the Pencil End 
in the Spool Hole 





Fig. 67. — Bind the Razor-Blade Between 
the Pencil Halves 





Fig. 65 — The Ripper 



Fig. 64 — a Toothpick Holder 



The Toothpick Holder (Fig. 64) is large enough for 
eight or nine toothpicks. After staining the spool, 
glue felt or cardboard to one end to form a bottom to 
the holder. 



SPOOL GIFTS 



43 



Every woman needs 

A Ripper for the sewing cabinet, and Fig. 65 shows 
one that is easily made. One of father's safety-razor 
blades, a short piece of pencil, and a spool {A, B, and C, 
Fig. 66) are required to make It. 

Split the pencil Into 
halves, remove the 
lead, and notch the 
edges In two places near 
one end, spacing the 
notches the same dis- 
tance apart that the 
holes In the razor blade 
are spaced (Fig. 67). 
Slip the blade between 
the pencil halves, and 
bind In place with 

strong linen thread passed through the holes and around 
the notches in the pencil. Then glue the free end of 

the pencil Into the 
hole In the spool 
handle, and the 
little knife will be 
ready for use. The 
end hole In the 
blade may be used 
as a means of hang- 
ing the knife on a nail In a sewing cabinet. 

The Hatpin-Holder illustrated in Fig. 68 is made of 




Fig. 68.— a Hatpin- 
Holder 




Fig. 69. — A Necktie- Rack 



44 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

four spools of equal size, fastened end to end with brads. 
Tie a loop of narrow baby ribbon to the top spool, in 
the manner shown, to provide for hanging the holder 
upon the wall. 

The Necktie-rack (Fig. 69) is made of a ribbon spool 
slipped over a stick 16 inches long, with a piece of 
ribbon tied to each end of the stick. The stick will be 
held far enough avv^ay from the wall by the spool 
flanges, so that neckties can be slipped over it easily. 




It's lots of fun making Christmas gifts out of paper 
and cardboard, and you will be surprised to find how 
inexpensively you can provide something useful and 
pretty for those whom you wish to remember. It is 
likely that some of the material can be found at home, 
and a considerable saving in the cost of the rest can be 
made by getting your friends to buy with you, because 
often you have to pay as much for a small quantity of 
material as for three or four times that amount. 

If You Want to Earn Pocket- Money, I know no better 
way than that of making up a lot of small gifts Hke 
those I am going to show you how to make, and selling 
these to friends. Ask your druggist, or a stationer, or 
the proprietor of a fancy-goods shop to display some of 
your samples in his windows early in December, and 
you will have more orders than you can attend to, 
because articles such as these are always in very great 
demand just before the holidays. 

The Football Calendar in Fig. 70 is a novel gift that 
brother will appreciate for his room. The football is 
made of cardboard. To make it symmetrical, the 
edges must be curved alike, and the surest way of 

45 



46 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



getting them so is by means of a paper pattern (Fig. 74). 
To make this pattern, take a piece of paper 7 by 9 



1915 JANUARY 1915 


:.- 


-— 


-- 


-^ 




1 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


12 


13 


14 


15 


16 


17 


IB 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


»%! 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 



Fig. 70. — A Football Calendar, 



inches In size, fold it along its center as indicated by 
dotted Hnes in Fig. 71, bringing corner A over to corner 
B (Fig. 72), then fold it again, bringing corner A to 
corner C (Fig. 73). From the folded corner measure 
off a distance of 3 inches along the short folded edge, 
and 4 inches along the long folded edge. Then draw 
an arc of an ellipse between the points marked off 
(Fig. 73), cut along the arc, unfold, and you will have 
the pattern shown in Fig. 74. Place the pattern upon 
the cardboard, mark out around it, and cut out the 
piece. 



GIFTS MADE OF PAPER AND CARDBOARD 47 

Color the football with brown crayon or water-color, 
and shade the surface to make it look round. 

Buy a small calendar-pad at the stationery store, 
and paste it to the center of the football. Then tie a 
bow in each end of a piece of baby ribbon long enough 



A B 




Fig. 71 



Fig. 72 




. -4^ IN / 



Fig. 74 Fig. 73 

Figs. 71 to 74. — Patterns for Football Calendar 



to form a loop for hanging up the calendar by, and sew 
these bows to the ends of the football. 

Father or mother will be pleased with 

A Blotter-pad like that shown in Fig. 75. It is made 
of four pieces of blotter 4 inches wide and 9 inches long, 



48 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



and a piece of cardboard of equal size, held together at 
the ends with ribbon passed through holes punched 
near the corners and tied in bows. 




Fig. 75. — A Blotter- Pad 



On the top piece of cardboard mark out two envelopes 
with a piece of letter-paper indicated beneath each, 
and draw an owl's head peeking out through each 
envelope (Fig. 75). Beneath one owl's head print the 

words "Where 
are you from ? " 
and beside the 
other head print 
"I'm from the 
owl'd country;" 
then address the 
envelopes and 
stick a cancelled 
postage- stamp 
upon each. 
The Japanese 

Fig. 76.— A Pin-Cushion Pin-CUShion in 




GIFTS MADE OF PAPER AND CARDBOARD 49 



Fig. 76 consists of a small Japanese doll with a cush- 
ion tucked under each arm, seated upon a piece of 
heavy cardboard. Use a piece of cardboard 4 inches 
square for the base, and cover it with bright colored 
silk. Sew the doll upon this base. Make the pin- 
cushions out of silk stuffed with cotton. 

The Heart-shaped Needle-book shown in Fig. 77 
has a pair of covers made 
of two pieces of cardboard 
measuring Zyi inches each 
way, and four leaves of 
the same shape and size 
cut out of white or pretty 
colored flannel. Place the 
flannel hearts between the 
covers, and pierce two 
holes through both covers 
and leaves each side of 
the center of the top. 
Then pull a piece of nar- 
row ribbon through the 
holes, and tie a small 
bow. Fasten pieces of ribbon to the lower points of 
the heart, both front and back, by which to tie the 
little case shut when not in use. Mark "Needles" 
upon the front cover with ink or water-colors. 

The Book-marker in Fig. 78 requires 1>< yards of 
No. 7 white satin or grosgrain ribbon, and a fancy-work 
ring. Cut the ribbon into two pieces, one piece 12 




Fig. 77. — a Needle-Book 



50 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



inches long and the other 24 Inches long, and pull each 
halfway through the fancy-work ring and fasten with 
a few stitches. Notch the ends of the ribbons, as 
shown in Fig. 78, to keep them from fraying, then 




Fig. 78.— A Book-Marker 

letter the following verse, with black ink or water 
colors, placing one line upon each ribbon end : 

"Not mine to tell 

If the book be good; 
But I keep my place, 
As a marker should." 



slips 
To 



The Corner Book-marker shown in Fig. 79 
over the corner of the page you want to mark, 
make it, take a 
piece of white 
letter - paper 7 
inches square, 
fold this in half, 
diagonally, and 
cut along the 
folded line. 
Then take one- 
half (Fig. 80) and fold it in half again. The dotted 
line in Fig. 80 shows where to fold. Punch holes through 




Fig. 79. — Another Book-Marker 



GIFTS MADE OF PAPER AND CARDBOARD 51 



the folded piece near one open end (these are indicated 
on the unfolded piece), and with narrow ribbon lace 
the edges together, and tie the ribbon ends in a bow. 




Fig. 80. — Pattern for Book-Marker 

Cut a picture from a magazine and paste it upon 
one face of the marker, or if you can draw a design 
upon it, do that, and color the design with water-colors 
or crayons. 

The Pin-case shown in Fig. 81 requires two pieces 
of cardboard each 6 inches long and \}i inches wide. 
Cover each piece 
with pretty silk, 
turning over the 
edges of the silk 
and basting on the 
wrong side as 
shown in Fig. 82. 
Then lay the pieces 

together, and sew Fig. 8 1. — A Pin-Case 




^■::-. ....-.•... . . . .-...^.-.A 


i 


f^^F=F^Tr^»=^ 




^Sirfr/ Vg^^^ 


^\F-V-\7 A/— v/--^ 


/?^;:;;. ■ • ' .:.';.. w /N] 



Fig. 82. — Detail of Pin-Case 



52 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

the edges over and over. Fasten a ribbon to the ends 
of one long side by which to hang up the case (Fig. 81). 
The Black-cat Match-scratcher, shown in Fig. 83, 
was originated by a lad who made and sold about three 
thousand copies at 10 cents apiece. The success 
obtained with this scratcher is an instance of what a 
girl might do in making and selling articles that please 
the popular fancy. Scratchers are not as popular 

nowadays as they 
were twenty years 
ago, before electricity 
came into such gen- 
eral use for lighting 
purposes, but they 
probably always will be used while matches are manu- 
factured, so I have included the black-cat design in 
this chapter. 

The black-cat match-scratcher has a 6 by 10 inch 
cardboard back, and the cat is cut out of black sand- 
paper and glued upon this back. The cat whiskers, 
and the lettering "Scratch my Back!" are put on with 
pen and ink. Draw a pattern of the cat, 5 inches high, 
upon a piece of paper, then cut this out, and mark out 
around its edge upon the piece of sandpaper. Cut the 
sandpaper with a pair of scissors, and paste it to the 
cardboard back with flour paste. Punch a pair of 
holes in the top edge of the cardboard back, and attach 
a hanger of baby ribbon, as shown. 

Candle-sticks are coming more and more into use 



GIFTS MADE OF PAPER AND CARDBOARD 53 



as ornaments, and to 
have a pair on the 
mantel-shelf, and one 
on the library table 
or desk top is quite 
the thing. The three 
designs illustrated on 
the following pages 
are of unique form, 
and you girls will 
find them interesting 
things to make. As 
they are made of 
cardboard, it is best 
not to light the can- 
dles. Burn each 
candle just enough 
to give it a used appearance, then keep it in the 
candle-stick unlit. 

A Simple Candle-stick with a small box for a base 
is shown in Fig. 84. The box should be about 2 inches 
wide and 3 inches long, which is a size easy to pick up. 
In this box fit a piece of cardboard that has its edges 
turned down and a hole cut through its center to receive 
a candle (Fig. 85), and glue the turned down edges to 
the sides of the box. Figure 86 shows how to fold a 
cardboard strip for the handle. One end of this is 
stuck through a slot in one side of the box and is glued 
to the box bottom; the other end is slipped into the 
box and glued to the side. 




Fig. 83. — A Match-Scratcher 



54 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 85 



Fig. 84. — A Candle-Stick with a Box Base 
Fig. 85. — Tlie Base 
Fig. 86. — The Handle 



Another Design for a Candle-stick, with a pill-box 
for a top, is shown in Fig. 87. Figure SS shows how a 
hole is cut through the center of the box bottom for 



GIFTS MADE OF PAPER AND CARDBOARD 55 



Fig 



the candle to slip through, also how slots are cut through 
the bottom to receive the ends of the four supports. 
A pattern for the supports is shown in Fig. 89. Figure 
87 shows the 
relative propor- 
tions of the box 
top and the sup- 
ports. After 
making and cut- 
ting out one 
support, use it 
as a pattern for 
marking out the 
other three. The 
two slots A (Fig. 
89) are provided 
for the cross 
strips to stick 
through. Figure 
87 shows how 
these cross strips 
connect and 
brace the sup- 
ports. The upper 
pair of braces 
support the candle. Glue the ends of the crosspieces 
in slots ^,and glue one crosspiece to the other at their 
intersection. 

A Candle-stick with a Shade, like that shown in 




Fig. 87 Fig. 89 

Fig. 87. — Another Design for a Candle-Stick 
Fig. 88. — The Pill-Box Top 
Fig. 89. — Pattern for Side of Base 



56 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Fig. 90, makes a unique 
mantel ornament. The 
base of this model is a 
small cardboard box, 
turned bottom side up 
(Fig. 91). The center 
post is folded out of one 
piece of cardboard, and 
a flap is provided on one 
edge to lap and glue 
to the opposite edge. 
The top cap projects 
over the sides of the 
support all around, and 
it has a hole cut through 
its center large enough 
for the candle to slip 
through. This post is 
glued to the center of 
the base, and it is 
braced with the candle- 
stick handles (Fig. 93). 
After preparing the 
handles, cut the two pairs of slots A and B (Fig. 91) 
through the base, for the handle ends to stick through. 
Glue the inner upright of each handle to the candle- 
post, glue the end of the outer upright to the end of 
the box, and bend up the end of the inner upright 
and glue to the under side of the box bottom. 




Fig. 90. — A Candle-Stick with a 
Shade 



GIFTS MADE OF PAPER AND CARDBOARD 57 

The Candle Shade is made of a band of cardboard 
bent into a ring and covered with a strip of paper 




Fig. 94 
Figs. 91 to 95. — Patterns and Details for Candle-Stick. Shown in Fig. 90 

that has been slashed along its edges (Fig. 94) to form 
fringe. Red paper will look best for the covering. 
The supports for the shade are a pair of cardboard 
strips (Fig. 95). Glue the upper end of these to the 
inside of the shade; stick the lower end through a 



S8 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



pair of slots in the base (C, Fig. 91), and glue to the 
box sides. 

You may try your hand at 

Decorating the Cardboard, when you have completed 
the candle-sticks. Use different tints of water-colors. 

For making the desk calendars shown in Figs. 96, 




1916 JANUARY 1916 

Sun Mon, Tur WtD. Thu. Fri. Sat 

2 3 4 5 6 7 5 

9 lO 11 12 13 14 15 

16 17 15 19 20 21 22 

%, VAX 25 26 27 25 29 



::k 




Fig. 97. — End View 



Fig. 96. — A Desk Calendar 



100 and 103 you will need several calendar-pads from 
w^hich to cut the names of the months, days of the 
week, and the dates. These can be obtained from 
advertising calendars. 

The Desk Calendar in Fig. 96 has a cardboard case 
(Fig. 98), and six calendar cards (Fig. 99). First make 
the cards, then the case. The size of your calendar-pad 
will determine the size of the cards. Figure 99 will 
give you an idea of the relative size. The card tops 
must extend above the case as shown. Use a light- 
weight cardboard or heavy letter-paper for the cards. 



GIFTS MADE OF PAPER AND CARDBOARD 59 

You will see by Fig. 99 that one month of the calendar 
is pasted upon each side of each card. Be careful to 
get the margins equal so that the printing will center 
upon the opening in the front of the case. 

Cut the front of the case from cardboard, with the 
opening of the right size so that there will be a margin 
of about % inch around the calendar, and make the 
margin around the opening about >^ inch wide. Use a 
very sharp knife so that the edge will cut straight and 
smooth. Mark out back B with front A as a. marker, 



^DEC. 



NOV. 



,1 





— i^ 


> — -* 


i9ie 


JASVARX 


1916 











« • »„ 


1 


2 "3 


4 5 6 


7 8 


9 10 


11 12 13 


14 15 


16 17 


18 19 20 


21 22 


%.>><. 


25 26 27 


28 29 




Fig. 99. — Cards for Calendar 



Fig. 98. — Details of Calendar Frame 

and glue enough of the strips C along the side and 
bottom to make a thickness a trifle greater than that 
of the six calendar cards. 

To assemble the case, bind together A and B with 
paper lapped over and glued to their edges. Paste a 
piece of tinted paper on the front to conceal the binding 
strip. Figure 97 shows how to fasten a cardboard 



6o 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



strip to the back of the case to support the calendar. 
With the case finished, a new set of cards each year 
will keep the calendar up to date. 

Perhaps you would prefer 

A Perpetual Calendar to the one just described. 




Fig. 101. — Details of Frame 



Fig. 100. — A Perpetual Calendar, 



The calendar in Fig. 100 requires a small cardboard 
box for a case {A, Fig. 101). Remove one end of the 
box, then cut away the bottom, with the exception of 
a margin of }4 inch along the sides and remaining end. 
Back B (Fig. 101) fits between the box sides, and 
extends 1 inch above them. Glue its edges to the 
sides of the box. 



GIFTS MADE OF PAPER AND CARDBOARD 6i 



There are sixteen calendar cards (Fig. 102), two for 
the "days", eight for the "dates", and six for the 





'0\ 

'''''■'^ \ 

;''' .'?>■■ ' 




3 i 




,«W« 1 

' ''^ 1 
-J \ 

i j 
"'W : 


JAN. 


MON. 

sanx 


FRI. 
IVS 


MAR. 


MAY 






JULY 


1 
z 


5 
9 


SEPT 




^^-^ 




NOV. 


9 

01 


^^^ 


13 




17 
81 








21 

2i: 


' ^3 1 


25 
97 




29 

oe 


Fig. ] 


102. — Pattei 
Perpetual C 


n for Card 
Calendar 


s for 



"months". Cut the "date" cards two- thirds of the 
length of the "day" cards, and the "month" cards 
one-half of the length of the "date" cards. The 



62 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



calendar-pad from which you cut the "days", "dates", 
and "months" should be printed in heavy, clear type. 
Arrange and paste the printing in the manner shown 

—V in Fig. 102. The 



dotted-in por- 
tions of the dia- 
grams indicate 
the reverse side 
of the cards. 
Another Form 




Fig. 103. 



Another Form of Perpetual Calendar , p , 1 P 1 

endar is shown in Fig. 103. This one has a case made 
out of a cardboard box of the kind that slides into a 
sleeve cover (Figs. 104 and 105). Cut the openings A, 
B and C (Fig. 104) through the sleeve cover, and 
paste the three strips D (Fig. 105) upon the box bottom 
for the "month", "day" and "date" strips to slide 
upon. Figure 106 shows the relative length and width 
of the slide strips, and Fig. 107 the arrangement of the 
calendar letters and numbers. Fourteen strips are 
shown in the diagram, but by using both sides only 
seven will be necessary. 

Every girl will be interested in making 

A Recipe Cabinet like that shown in Fig. 108, in 
which to keep her favorite cooking recipes. There is 
a place in this for every kind of recipe, and, with a 
guide-card to show just where each recipe has been 
filed, it is possible to find exactly what is wanted when 
it is wanted. 



GIFTS MADE OF PAPER AND CARDBOARD 63 

Make a cabinet for mother, then make another for 
your own collection. The work is easy and is quickly 
done. Any cardboard box can be used for working 




(JAN 


FEB. ) 




CMAK 


APR } 


C MAY JUN. ) 


(JUL. 


AUG J 


(SEP 


OCT J 


(NOV, 


DEC. J 



^■--^=~ "^ 


lU. i 


( 1234567 


) 




(89 101112 


) 




( 1314151617 


) 




( 1819202122 


) 




( 2324252627 






( 28293031 


) 



(SUN.MONTPSS. 



( •WED.THPB.FRI.SAT." 



3 



Fig. 107 
Figs. 104 and 105. — Box and Cover Used for Perpetual Calendar 
Fig. 106. — Detail of "Month" Slide 
Fig. 107. — Detail of "Month," "Day" and "Date" Slides Required 

material. Mark out the bottom, two sides, and two 
ends in the form shown in the pattern of Fig. 109. 
Draw the lines with ruler and pencil, using the dimen- 
sions given. Then, when you have marked out the 
piece, cut out along the outside lines. With a pocket- 
knife score along the outer lines of the bottom piece. 



64 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



as Indicated by dotted lines, and bend up the side and 
end pieces until their ends meet. Bind the corners 

together with 
strips of linen, 
coated with glue 
and lapped over 
the corners as 
shown in Fig. 111. 
The pattern for 
the cover is shown 
in Fig. 110. Mark 
it out in the same 
way that you 
marked out the 
box. Score it as 




Fig. 108. — A Recipe Cabinet 



indicated by the dotted lines, and bend up the sides 
and ends until their ends meet. Corner A (Fig. Ill) 
shows how the corners are brought together, and corner 
B shows how they are bound with the linen strips. 

Hinge the cover to the cabinet box with a cloth 
hinge strip similar to the strips bound over the corners. 
Make the hinge extend the full length of the cover. 
Then with the cover attached, get a piece of light- 
weight cambric of a dark gray or other durable color, 
and cover the outside of the cabinet, gluing the cloth 
to the cardboard, and stretching it tightly and neatly 
over the corners. 

The Indexed Guide-cards are of cardboard, and 
are made as shown in Fig. 112. They should measure 



GIFTS MADE OF PAPER AND CARDBOARD 65 

3H inches high by a length equal to a trifle less than 
the inside length of the box. Divide the upper edge of 
each card into three parts, and prepare the projecting 
tabs as shown, making each a trifle longer than one-third 





5 








"1^ 






/ 


-H- 




Fig. lie 




5 








-W 
c\l 

2* . 


\.- 




/ 


CM 




Fig. 109 



Fig. 109. — Pattern for Recipe Cabinet Box 
Fig. 110. — Pattern for Cover 



of the length of the card, and Vs inch high. Cut away 
the card either side of the tab. The first card, you 
will notice, has a tab on the left end, the second has 
it in the center, and the third on the right end. The 



66 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



fourth Is the 
same as the first, 
the fifth the 
same as the 
second, the sixth 
the same as the 
third, and so on. 
You can make 
up your own 
recipe classifica- 
tions, but the 
following cover 
about every 
heading neces- 
sary: Beverages, 
Breads, Cake, 
Candies, Canning, Chafin 
Frozen Desserts, Meats, 





Fig. 112.— The Indexed Guide 
Cards 



Fig. 111. — How to Reinforce the Corners of 
Recipe Cabinet 



; Dish, Desserts, Eggs, Fish, 
Pickling, Preserves, Salads, 
Sandwiches, Sauces, 
Soups, Vegetables, Mis- 
cellaneous. For the cards 
on which the recipes are 
to be written, use a heavy 
grade of note-paper. Cut 
each to the length and 
height of the Index 
cards. Fifty cards will 
probably be enough to 
start with. 




■frfTTr 



CHAPTER VI 
CRETONNE GIFTS 




Dainty gifts covered in cretonne are certain to find 
a ready welcome in any household, and such a variety 
of things can be made that you will have no difficulty 
in filling a want of each one whom you wish to remember 
on Christmas day and birthdays. Look over the 
articles shown upon the following pages, and see if 
you don't think that any one of them would be appre- 
ciated. 

Take the article in Fig. 113, for instance. Who 
would not like to own 

A Pair of Book-ends as unique as these? The secret 
of making satisfactory book ends is in properly weight- 
ing them so that they will not upset. This pair, made 
of sirup cans, covered with cretonne, are weighted by 
a filling of sand, and therefore stand very solidly. 

To make the tin-can book-ends, select a pair of cans 
of exactly the same size, fill each with sand and fit the 
covers on securely; then cut a piece of cretonne large 
enough to fit around the sides of each can, hem the 
top and bottom edges, run a piece of twine through 
each hem for a gathering-string, and pull up the strings 
so as to gather the ends as indicated in Fig. 113. Sew 

67 



68 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



a fancy button, or a cretonne-covered button, to the 
center of the top. 

For Covering the book-ends, and other articles of 
similar size, cretonne with small patterns is the most 
desirable, and for articles which are likely to soil 
through much handling, cretonne with dark back- 
grounds is preferable. 

A Twine-holder like that shown in Fig. 114 is a 
handy household article that is quickly made. This 
requires a sirup can. As an outlet for the string, a 




Fig. 113. — Book-Ends 



hole must be pierced through the exact center of the 
can bottom {A, Fig. 115), and holes }4 inch apart must 
be pierced through the top rim to provide a means of 
fastening the top edge of the cretonne. The holes 
can be perforated by means of a nail and hammer. 



CRETONNE GIFTS 



69 



Gather the cretonne on the bottom, turn the top 
edge over the rim, and sew through the perforations in 
the rim. Make a hanger for the twine-holder out of 
cretonne or ribbon. 

The Hanging Work-box in Fig. 116 requires a square 
cardboard box. Remove two adjacent sides of both 
the box and the cover (Fig. 117), then stitch the 
cover to the box (Fig. 118). The cretonne may 
either be stitched over the open edges of the box, or 
be glued to the 
cardboard. Sew 
a doubled strip 
of cretonne, or a 
ribbon, to the 
open corners for 
a hanger. 

A Dainty Tel- 
ephone-book 
like that in Fig. 
119 provides a 
handy directory 
for numbers 
used frequently, 
and numbers 
which may be 
wanted quickly in cases of emergency. The covers 
are of cardboard 6 inches wide and 8 inches long, and 
are hinged together by the cretonne covering. Lap the 
cretonne over the edges as indicated in Fig. 120, 





Fig. 114. 
Fig. 115. 



A Twine-Holder 

Detail of Can for Twine-Holder 



70 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



glue it to the cardboard, and make a pocket on one 
edge, to hold a pencil. 

Cut sheets of writing paper of the right size to extend 
a trifle over the lapped edges of the cretonne, and glue 

them in place; then 
divide the paper into 
spaces, and index the 
spaces (Fig. 120). A 
fancywork ring sewed 
to the center of the top 
edge provides a good 
hanger. 

The Music-case in 
Fig. 121 has a canvas 
foundation cut of the 
dimensions shown in 
Fig. 123. The dotted 
lines around the edges 
of this diagram indicate 
how the edges of the 
cretonne covering turn 
over, and the dotted lines each side of the portion 
marked B indicate where portion A turns up and 
portion C turns down, to close the case (Figs. 121 
and 122). A pair of buckles, with cretonne straps to 
pass around the case, and a cretonne handle, will 
complete the music-case. 

A Dresser Set of cardboard boxes covered with 
cretonne of a small pattern, in colors that will harmonize 




Fig. 116. — A Hanging Work-Box 



CRETONNE GIFTS 



7i 





Fig. 117 Fig. 118 

Figs. 117 and 118. — Details of Work-Box 





Fig. 119. — a Tele- 
phone-Book Fig. 120. — The Inside of the Telephone-Book 

with the furnishings of the bedroom is something every 
girl would be proud to own. All the articles necessary 
are easily made. The illustrations upon the follow- 
ing pages show a hatpin-holder, two pin-cushions, 
a glove-box, a brush-and-comb tray, and a trinket-chest, 



72 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



and you can make a handkerchief-box, and other 
pieces, in a similar manner. 

The Hatpin-holder (Fig. 124) requires a long, slender 
box such as hatpins are sold in. Sew or glue the cover 




Fig. 121. — A Music-Case 



Fig. 122. — End View 
of Music-Case 



B 



rr- 



>/ -KM 

_L6JJst. X 




Fig. 123. — Pattern for Music-Case 



Fig. 124. — a Hatpin-Holder 

on the box, cut off the end so that the box will be 
several inches shorter than the hatpins, and cover 



CRETONNE GIFTS 



73 




Fig. 125. — A Pin-Cushion 



with cretonne, pulling the cloth tight over the sides 

and closed end, lapping the edges, and sewing. Then 

tie a loop of ribbon near the ends of the holder by 

which to hang it up. 
The Pin-cushion shown 

in Fig. 125 has a small 

square box-cover for a 

foundation. This cover 

is filled with sawdust, a 

covering of cheesecloth is 

fastened over the top to 

hold the filling in, and a 

second covering of cre- 
tonne is fastened over the cheesecloth. Glue the top 
covering to the edges of the cover. 
Finish by sewing a band of cretonne 
around the edge. 

The Hanging Pin-cushion (Fig. 126) 
requires two round pill-boxes. Glue 
these together, bottom to bottom, as 
shown in Fig. 127, then fill one at a 
time with sawdust, cover with cheese- 
cloth, and finish by sewing a band of 
cretonne around the edge of the boxes, 
and attaching a loop of ribbon to hang 
it by. 
The Glove-box in Fig. 128 is made 

t7t^ n^ Au of a cracker-box of the form shown in 

riG.126. — AHang- 

ing Pin-Cushion Fig. 129. First cut off the end flaps so 




74 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 127. — Pill- 
Boxes for Pin- 
Cushions 



they will be just long enough to turn down and fasten 
to the inside of the ends (see dotted Hnes in Fig. 129), 
and remove the flap on the lid. Cover the outside of 
the box and lid with cretonne, first; then cut pieces 
of cardboard to fit the inside, bottom, 
ends and sides, cover these with pad- 
ding and then with silk (Fig. 130), and 
glue in position. 

Get the cover to a shoe-box for 
The Brush-and-comb Tray shown in 
Fig. 131. Reinforce the corners with 
pieces of cardboard folded and glued to them, as shown 
in Figs. 132 and 133; then put on the cretonne covering. 
Cut one piece of cretonne of the right size to fit the 
bottom of the cover and lap over the rim and on to the 

inside, then, after 
stitching this in 
place, cut a piece of 
cardboard to fit the 
bottom inside, 
cover it with cre- 
tonne (Fig. 130), 
and glue this cov- 
ered piece to the 
inside of the cover. 
This completes the 
tray. 
Figure 134 shows 
A Dainty Trin- 




FiG. 129 



Fig. 130 



Fig. 128. — A Glove Box 

Fig. 129. — The Cracker Box Foundation 

Fig. 130. — The Padded Inside Ends 



CRETONNE GIFTS 



75 




Fig. 133 



Fig. 132 
Fig. 131. — A Brush-and-Comb-Tray 
Figs. 132 and 133. — Details of Tray 




Fig. 135 





Fig. 134 



Fig. 136 

Fig. 134. — A Trinket-Chest 

Fig. 135. — The Case with Partitions for Drawers 

Fig. 136. — A Drawer 



ket-chestof three drawers. After seeing how it is con- 
structed, you can make yours of as many drawers as 
you wish. 

Small cardboard boxes form the drawers (Fig. 137). 



76 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



You can get empty spool boxes at a drygoods store. 
Pile one upon another, and figure out the dimensions 
of the chest. Then fold a piece of cardboard as shown 
in Fig. 138, to make a case of the right size for the 
boxes, and after bringing the folded ends together, 
bind them with a strip of paper (Fig. 139). Next, 




FiG.139 





Fig. 138 

Figs. 137 to 139. 



Fig. 137 
Details of Trinket Chest 



cut Strips of cardboard for shelves, and fasten these 
between the ends of the case by running pins through 
into their ends, as shown in Fig. 139. 

When the shelves have been adjusted properly, 
cover the back, ends, top and bottom of the case with 
cretonne (Fig. 135), also the front of the drawer boxes 
(Fig. 136) ; and sew a fancy work ring to the center of 



CRETONNE GIFTS 



77 



the front of each drawer (Fig. 134) by which to open 
it. 

A Home Utility-box. How often do you hear mother 
and father asking for a piece of string, a rubber-band, 
a tack, or some paste? Whereupon there is hurrying 
and scurrying from cupboard to cupboard — because 

when one of these 
things is wanted it 
is generally wanted 
right away — and 
perhaps the entire 
house is upset be- 
fore the hiding 
place is discovered. 
Don't you want 
to save this confu- 
sion by providing 
a utility -box like 
that shown in Fig. 
140? It will re- 
quire only a Httle time to prepare it, and just think of 
what a time-saver it will be to everybody in the house. 
Any strong cardboard box may be used. The one 
for* the model illustrated was 10 inches wide, 12 inches 
long, and 3 inches deep, but of course the proportions 
may be that of whatever box you find. 

Figure 141 shows the box partitioned off into twelve 
compartments, providing receptacles for light-weight 
and heavy wrapping-twine, shipping tags, gummed 




Fig. 140. — A Utility- Box. 



78 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



TWINE 


TAGS 


LftBOS 


TWINE 


RUBBER 
BANDS 


PAPER 
CLIPS 


PAPER 
FASTKS 


TACKS & 

Pushpins 


PASSE pa<;te 
PARTOUT -T^;' , 
PAPER 'USES 


INK 


PICTURE 
WIRE & 

Hooks 



Fig. 141. — Arrangement of 
Compartments 



labels, rubber-bands, paper clips and brass fasteners, 
tacks and pushpins, passe-partout paper, tubes of 
library paste and glue, bottle of ink, and picture-wire 
and picture-hooks. The inside of the cover provides 
pockets into which to slip a pencil, pen, and scissors. 

Figure 143 shows how to 
cut the cardboard strips which 
partition off the compart- 
ments. You will notice that 
the upper edge of the long 
strips {A) are notched from 
the top edge down to the 
center, and that the short 
strips which cross them {B) 
are notched from the bottom edge to the center. The 
positions for these notches must be located carefully 
so as to come at the exact intersections of the parti- 
tions, and they must be cut of the right width for the 
crossing partitions to slip into. By examining the illus- 
trations, you will understand how the partitions inter- 
lock. Fasten the strips with pins pushed through the 
sides of the box into their ends (Fig. 142). 

The back edge of the cover rim must be separated 
from the rest of the rim at the corners (Fig. 144), and 
be glued to the back of the box, for a hinge. Then a 
strip of linen must be glued to the outside of this rim 
strip, and be lapped over on to the cover, to reinforce the 
hinge. 

By covering the outside of the box with cretonne 



CRETONNE GIFTS 



79 



you win greatly improve its appearance. Glue the 
cretonne to the cardboard. 

A Twine-box to keep near the supply of wrapping- 
paper is a handy article to have in the house. Figures 




Fig. 142. — Detail of Utility-Box 
Fig. 143. — Partitions 
Fig. 144. — Cover 



145 and 146 show a box made for three balls, one of 
heav}^ wrapping- twine, one of light-weight white cotton 
twine, and one of colored twine. 



8o 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



You can use a large candy-box. Fasten the card- 
board partitions between the sides with pins. The 
rim of the box cover may be left on it, or it may be 




Fig. 145. — Twine- 
Box (Open) 




Fig, 146. — Twine- Box (Closed) 



removed as in Fig. 145. Punch holes through the 
cover for the ends of the twine to run through. The 
outside of the box should be covered with cretonne, to 
give it a trim appearance. 




mt 



CHAPTER VII 



CRETONNE-COVERED 
CARPENTRY 




The shops are full of pretty cretonne-covered 
articles for a girl's room, and so simple are most of 
these to make that you can easily duplicate them for 
your own, or your mother's bedroom. The work 
does not require the skill of a mechanic because almost 
every imperfection in the woodwork will be concealed 
by the cretonne. Also, because of the covering, it 
is possible to use boxes, and since such a variety of 
shapes and sizes are to be had, many articles can be 
assembled without altering the boxes in any way. 

Every girl needs 

A Fancywork-box like that shown in Fig. 148. The 
only carpenter work necessary is the fastening together 
of the cover boards with a couple of strips nailed 
across them as shown in Fig. 150. Place these cross 
strips close enough to the ends, and make them of the 
right length, so when the cover is placed on the box 
they will prevent the cover from shifting lengthwise 
and crosswise. This makes hinges unnecessary. 

The Box must be Covered to conceal the roughness 
of the boards. A pretty figured cretonne looks well 
for the outside, and a plain colored lining is best for 

81 



82 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



the inside. Before the covering is put on, tack a layer 
of cotton wadding to the wood, for padding. Screw 
a brass handle to the center of each end. 




Fig. 149 
Fig, 148. — A Fancywork Box 

Fig. 149. — Arrangements of Pockets and Spool-Racks on Cover 
Fig. 150. — How to Batten Together the Cover Boards 
Fig. 151. — A Spool-Rack 

Figure 149 shows how 

A Cloth Pocket and Elastic Tapes should be tacked 
to the inside of the cover; also how to make 



CRETONNE CARPTENRY 



83 



A Spool-rack by driving nails into the cover and 

slipping rubber-bands over the nail-heads (see larger 
detail, Fig. 151) to keep the spools from dropping off. 

The Fancywork-box with Legs shown in Fig. 152 
requires little more work to make than the box just 
described. The 
legs are strips 2 
inches wide, 1 
inch thick, and 
from 14 to 20 
inches long, ac- 
cording to the 
height of box 
you want. Six- 
teen inches is 
right if you wish 
to use the box 
as a bench to sit 
on. If you can- 
not saw up the strips yourself, and no one at home can 
do the work for you, a few pennies will buy them at 
a carpenter shop. The leg strips must be of equal 
length, and they must be nailed to the box corners so 
the tops are even with the top of the box (Fig. 153). 

The cover of the fancywork-box should be wide 
enough and long enough to project % inch over the 
sides all around. Therefore you must use the cover 
boards from a larger box. Nail a pair of wooden strips 
across them to hold them together (Fig. 154). These 




Fig. 152. — A Fancywork Box with Legs 



84 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 154 



Fig. 153 



strips can be placed upon the under side of the boards 
in such a position that they will keep the cover from 
slipping from side to side, and from end to end, when 

it is placed upon 
the fancywork- 
box. By making 
the cover to lift 
off, you will save 
yourself the 
trouble of put- 
ting on hinges. 

Putting on the 
Cretonne. Per- 
haps you can 
buy a large 
enough remnant 
in cretonne for 
your fancy work- 
box. The care 
with which you 
put on this cov- 
ering material 
will determine 
whether or not 
the box will be 
a success. As grocery boxes are more or less rough, 
and the boards uneven, it is best to cover the wood 
with some other cloth, first, for a foundation for the 
cretonne. Stretch the cretonne over each surface 




Fig. 155 



Fig. 153. — How the Legs are Nailed to the 

Box Ends. 
Fig. 154. — The Completed Cover 
Fig. 155. — How the Box is Partitioned off 

into Compartments 



CRETONNE CARPENTRY 



85 



neatly, and use gimp tacks for fastening it. Line the 
inside of the box with plain colored cambric. Figure 
155 suggests how the inside may be divided into 
compartments by cloth partitions. 

In Fig. 156 we have 

A More Elaborate 
Fancy work-box, though 
one that is no more 
difficult to make. Fig- 
ure 157 shows how the 
frame is built of two 
upright strips nailed to 
one side of the box, and 
two crosspieces nailed 
to the uprights. The 
frame need not be 
higher than a chair 
back. Figure 158 shows 
the cover boards fast- 
ened together with 
crosspieces. 

Put on the Cretonne 
covering in the same 
way as directed for the other boxes. Figure 156 shows 
how the frame is covered, with a solid piece tacked 
over the back, and its edges brought around over the 
front of the framework strips. 

Make pockets out of extra pieces of cretonne, to 
hold unfinished work, patterns, and notions; and 




Fig. 156. — A More Elaborate Fancy- 
work Box 



86 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



form a heading on the pocket edges through which to 
run elastic to keep the pockets closed. 

Drive nails into the upper edge of the center cross- 
piece to make a handy spool-rack, and hooks into the 

under edge of 
the top cross- 
piece for hangers 
for scissors. 

You need a 
writing-desk for 
your bedroom — 
every girl does, 
and in Fig. 159 
I have shown a 
new idea for a 
desk — 

A Portable 
Writing - desk. 
This desk has 
no legs, being 
designed to 
stand upon a 
table. The front 
drops down to write upon, just like the drop-leaf of 
any desk. When the front is closed and hooked, the 
desk is in a compact form, and it may be lifted to and 
from the work-table by means of the handle attached 
to the top. The desk may be stood in some out of 
the way corner when not in use. 




Fic. 157. 
Fig. 158. 



Fig. 157 
Framework of Box and Screen 
The Box Cover 



CRETONNE CARPENTRY 



87 



Of course, if you want a desk in a permanent position, 
it is easy enough to fasten strips to the ends for legs, 
or the box can be suspended by means of chains, from 
hooks screwed into a wall. 




Fig. 159. — The Portable Desk, Closed 



A grocery box, together with its cover or some 
additional box-boards, is needed for working material. 
The box shown in the illustrations is one in which 
cans of preserved fruit had been packed, and it measures 
21 inches long, 13>^ inches wide and lyi inches deep. 
It is likely you can get a box of approximately the 
same dimensions by going to your grocer. Pick out 
as perfect a box as you can find. The fewer cracks, 



88 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



knots, and joints that there are in the boards, the 
less puttying you will have to do when finishing. 

After renailing any boards that may be loose, cut 
the board A oi a. length equal to the inside length of 

the box, and of a 
width equal to the 
inside depth of the 
box (Fig. 162), and 
the piece B of 
equal width and 
2}4 inches high. 
Fasten piece B 
across the center 
of board A, 
with nails driven 
through A into 
the edge of B. 
Then fasten the 
nailed together 




Fig. 160.— The Portable Writing-desk, Open 



pieces in the upper part of the box, as shown in Fig. 
161, to form pigeon holes. Nail through the ends of 
the box into the ends of board A, and down through 
the top into the edge of board B, to hold the pieces in 
place. 

Strip C (Fig. 163) forms the front to 

A Rack for Stationery and loose papers (Figs. 160 
and 161), and has four screw-hooks screwed into it 
(Fig. 163) for 

Pen and Pencil Racks. Cut this strip of a length 



CRETONNE CARPENTRY 



89 



equal to the inside length of the box, and about 2 Inches 
wide, and fasten It between the ends of the box about 



Fig. 165 




Fig. 163 
Fig. 16 L — How Desk Pigeon-holes and Pockets are Arranged 
Figs. 162 and 163. — The Partitions 

Fig. 164. — How the Ink-bottle is Enclosed to Prevent Upsetting 
Fig. 165. — Parcel-handle to Carry the Desk by 

1 Inch out from the box bottom, by driving nails through 
the box ends into Its ends. 

An Ink-bottle Pocket. It would not be safe to keep 
an ink-bottle in your portable desk without fastening 



90 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



it. There would be too many chances for It to upset. 
Figure 164 shows a good way of anchoring it. Get a 
long, heavy rubber-band, or a piece of elastic, and 
tack its ends to the inside of one end of the desk, as 




Fig. 166. — A Waste-basket. 

indicated in Fig. 161. This will form a pocket into 
which the bottle may be slipped and kept with safety, 
because the rubber will hold the bottle tight against 
the desk end (Fig. 160). 

The Drop-leaf is made out of the box-cover boards. 
Fasten the boards together with strips placed across 
them near their ends, as shown in Fig. 159. Either 
nail or screw these crosspieces to the boards, using 
nails or screws short enough so that they will not 



CRETONNE CARPENTRY 91 

go all the way through the two thicknesses of wood. 
Hinge the drop-leaf to the inside of the desk bottom 
with a pair of 2-inch hinges, as shown in Fig. 160. 
Fasten a small hook to each end of the desk, and 
screw a small screw-eye into each end of the drop-leaf 




FIG. 167 Fig. 168 

Fig. 167. — Soap-Box Foundation for Waste-Basket 
Fig. 168. — Box Ready for Covering with Cretonne 

in the proper position for the hook to hook into, as a 
means of hooking the drop-leaf when it has been 
closed (Figs. 159 and 160). 

A parcel-handle will make a satisfactory 

Handle for Carrying the desk by (Fig. 165). The 

ends are best fastened by slipping them through a pair 

of screw-eyes screwed into the desk top. Perhaps you 

will be able to get an iron trunk-handle, or one of the 



92 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

kind of handles they put on cupboard drawers. Either 
form would make a neater handle, of course, than 
the parcel-handle. 

A Waste-basket like that in Fig. 166 requires a 
soap-box. Remove one end of the box, as shown in 
Fig. 167, for the open top of the basket, and nail the 




Fig. 169. — A Shirt-waist Box 

cover board in place to enclose the side (Fig. 168). 
The next step, then, is to cut several strips about l}i 
inches wide, and nail them around the top edges as a 
finishing band. 

Tack on the Outside Cretonne first, then the inside 
lining. Lap the cretonne over the top edge, and cut 
it so that about 1 inch will turn down all around. 
Then conceal the edge of the cretonne by lapping the 
lining over it. The lining may be of a plain-colored 
cambric. The spool on each end forms a handle. 

A Shirt-waist Box of the form shown in Fig. 169 is 
made to slide underneath a bed. It has a pair of 



CRETONNE CARPENTRY 



93 



handles screwed to each of the two long sides, so it 
may be pulled out from either side of the bed, castors 
on the bottom make it easy to push it under and pull 
it out, and a double cover makes it possible to pull 
out the box half-way and open it. 




Fig. 170 
Fig. 170. — How to Prepare the Box for the Covers 
Fig. 171. — One of the Hinged Covers 

Because the shirt-waist box must be shallow, it is 
well to make it long. Having procured the box, it is 
only necessary to fasten a strip 2 inches wide along 
the center of the open top, from end to end, for the 
hinge-strip A (Fig. 170), and hinge a board each side 
of it for the covers (.S,Fig. 171). That completes the 
carpentry. 

To Cover the Box, before the hinge-strip and covers 
have been fastened on, is easiest; and the cretonne 
should be tacked to the hinge-strip and covers, also, 
before you fasten them in place. 



94 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



The Handles and Castors should be put on as the 
finishing touches. Any hardware dealer can supply 
you with these. 

Very few girls own 

A Shoe-blacking Case, yet it is an article of great 




Fig. 172 and 173. — A Shoe-blacking Case 

Fig. 174. — How to Fasten the Legs to the Box Corners 

Fig. 175. — The Top 



importance to one who is particular about keeping her 
shoes tidy, and I believe that you will want to make 
one like that illustrated in Figs. 172 and 173 when you 
see how simple its construction is. 

By making the top removable, the inside of the case 



CRETONNE CARPENTRY 95 

may be used as a receptacle for cans and bottles of 
polish, brushes, and rags; and by padding the under 
side and covering it with cretonne, the top may be 
inverted after use, and the blacking-case thus converted 
into 

An Attractive Footstool or tabouret, as you will see 
by Fig. 173. 

Figure 174 shows how four short legs should be 
nailed to the corners of a square soap-box, with the 
tops projecting just enough to allow for the thickness 
of the cover, and Fig. 175 shows how the cover boards 
should be fastened together with the cross strips A, 
and how a triangular block B should be nailed to it 
for a rest to push the shoe against. 

When you Cover the Blacking-case, omit the inside 
lining, because it would soil too easily to be practical. 
Instead of the lining, give the inside surfaces a coat 
of paint. 

What girl would not like to own 

A Set of Book-shelves similar to that shown in 
Fig. 176, to hang upon the wall in her room? The 
work is easy. A large number of spools are required, 
but you can soon collect enough by telling your friends 
and relatives to save all their empty spools for you. 
A dressmaker's assistance would hasten matters for you. 

The shelf-boards should be about )4 inch thick and 
10 inches wide, by whatever length you wish to have 
them. Buy eight >^-inch screw-eyes and screw one 
into each corner of each shelf (Fig. 177) ; and get some 



96 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



heavy wrapping-twine and cut it into four pieces on 
which to string the corner spools. 

The ilhistrations show 

How the Spools are Strung, with a spool below the 
screw-eyes of the bottom shelf, and another above 
those of the top shelf, with a knot tied upon the lower 
end of the cords, and a loop upon the upper end, to 




Fig. 176. — Spool Book-shelves 
Fig. 177. — Detail of Shelves 



hold the spools together. The cords must be pulled 
tight, and the loops must be tied close to the top 
spools, to make the corners stiff. 

Cover the Shelves with Cretonne, and paint the 



CRETONNE CARPENTRY 



97 



Fig. 180 




Fig. 178 



Fig. 178. — A Bolster-roll 

Figs. 179 and 180. — Details of Framework Hoops 

Fig. 181. — The Completed Framework 

Fig. 182. — How to Enclose the Framework with Cardboard 



spools, then hang the shelves from the picture-hooks 
by means of picture-wire attached to the loops on the 
corner cords. 

A Bolster-roll to encase the pillows is quite the 



98 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

proper thing for a girl's bed, and a roll like that shown 
in Fig. 178 is not difficult to construct. 

Get two barrel hoops for the ends, and three wooden 
strips Yi inch thick and Xyi inches wide with which 
to cx)nnect them (Fig. 181). The length of the strips 
should be the same as the width of the bed the roll is 
made for. The diameter of the hoops must be reduced 
to 11 inches, measuring from outside to outside. 
Remove the hoop fastenings, turn in the ends until the 
right diameter is obtained, and renail, as shown in 
Figs. 179 and 180. Connect the hoops with the 
horizontal strips, spacing these equidistantly, and 
nailing them with short nails. 

The Framework must be Covered, two-thirds of the 
way around, with cardboard; the other one-third 
remains open (Fig. 182). Cardboard boxes may be 
used for this covering material. Bend the pieces 
around the framework with care so each piece will 
curve like the pieces adjoining it, and tack to each 
strip; also, cover the barrel hoop ends with cardboard 
(Fig. 182). Then reinforce the cardboard with paper, 
pasting this lengthwise, both inside and out, to conceal 
the joints between the pieces of cardboard; also tack 
padding over the edges of the barrel-hoops. Then 
cover the entire roll, using cretonne for the outside, 
and a plain cambric for the inside. 




CHAPTER VIII 



HQME MADE FRAMES FQR 
SMALL PICTURES 




A LARGE number of small, daintily framed pictures 
will make the walls of a girl's room very attractive, 
and these can be made at practically no cost. 

A Frame made from a Candy-box Cover is shown 
in Fig. 183. To make this, cut down the rim of the 
cover to about yi inch high, as indicated by dotted 
Hnes in Fig. 184, then mark out the front opening so 
there will be an equal margin of cardboard all around, 
and cut it with a sharp knife. If you have a plate 
camera you can cut down a glass plate to fit your 
frame (-S, Fig. 186), or if you have a film camera you 
can use a cleaned-off film; if you have neither, get a 
piece of glass from a painter, or use the frame without 
a glass. 

Paste the picture to be mounted upon thick cardboard 
(C, Fig. 185) cut to fit the opening, and cut a piece of 
strawboard of equal size {I), Fig. 186) for backing. 
A piece of cord can be run through one of the corru- 
gations of the strawboard backing and tied in a loop 
(Fig. 186), for a hanger. Fasten the backing with 
pins pushed through the edges of the frame. 

Figure 187 shows a small round 



90 



lOO 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 184 Fig. 185 

Fig. 183. — Frame Made from a Candy-box Cover 
Fig. 184. — How to Cut Down the Cover 
Fig. 185. — Cardboard Backing 
Fig. 186. — The Parts Ready for Putting Together 

Frame made from a Pill-box. Cut down the rim of 
the box to about K inch deep, then mark out an opening 
with a compass, or with the rim of something round, 
so there will be a margin around the opening H inch 
wide (Fig. 188). 



HOME-MADE FRAMES FOR SMALL PICTURES loi 

Mount the photo upon heavy cardboard. Cut a 
circular backing out of strawboard (Fig. 189), run a 
loop of string through it for a hanger, and fasten it in 
the frame with pins pushed through the sides. 

A Double Cardboard Frame like that shown in Fig. 
190, decorated by spatterwork as suggested by the 




Fig. 187. — Frame made 
from a Pill-box 



Fig. 188. — Cut Pill-box where 
Dotted Lines Indicate 



illustration, makes an artistic setting for a portrait, 
photo or sketch. Figure 191 shows a detail of the two 
pieces {A and B) required to make this frame. First 
cut piece B with an opening of the right size to accom- 
modate the picture to be framed, and a margin around 
the opening 1 inch wide; then mark out frame A X 
inch smaller all around, and cut its opening >< inch 
smaller all around so that there will be a lap of K inch 
over the picture to be framed. Glue A to B, being 



102 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



careful to get the projecting margins equal on all sides. 
Set the picture in the frame (C, Fig. 192), and paste a 
paper backing over it (P), then attach cord to fancy- 
work rings fastened to the 
back. 

A Cretonne-covered Frame 
like that in Fig. 193 will look 
very pretty in a bedroom hav- 
ing cretonne-covered fur- 
niture. It is made of a box 
board cut to the right pro- 
portions so there will be an 
equal margin around the 
picture. Cut the cretonne 
large enough to lap several 
inches over the back (Fig. 
194). Stretch this tightly over the board, and tack 
down the edges. Tack the picture to be framed to 




;-'-^: 






Fig. 190. — A Double 
Cardboard Frame 





Fig. 192 

Figs. 191 and 192. 



Fig. 191 
Details of Frame 



HOME-MADE FRAMES FOR SMALL PICTURES 103 

the center of the covered side, then tack gimp or 
braid around it to conceal the edge. 

Attach a cord or wire hanger to fancy-work rings 
sewed to the cretonne, or to small screw-eyes. 




Fig. 195 



Fig. 193 — A Cretonne-Covered Frame 

Fig. 194 — Back of Frame 

Fig. 195 — How to Attach Picture 



Figure 196 shows 

A Unique Glass Frame with a cretonne-covered 
border. Instead of mounting the cretonne upon a 
board, as you did in the case of the frame shown in 



104 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Fig. 193, mount it upon a piece of glass. Cut a piece 
of cretonne large enough to cover the glass and to lap 
1 inch or so over the edges and on to the opposite side. 
Then cut the picture opening in the center of the 
cretonne, and turn in and hem enough of the cut edge 





IG. 196 — A Glass Frame 



Fig. 197 — Cretonne Covering 



to finish it off. Then glue the cloth to the glass (Fig. 
197), and when the glue has dried, trim up the edge of 
the cloth with a sharp knife, if it appears ragged. 
Set the picture over the frame opening, back it with a 
piece of cardboard, and glue down the cretonne flaps 
(Fig. 197) over it. Attach a hanger in the manner 
shown for the other cretonne-covered frame. 

If you think of some 

Other Ideas for Home-made Frames be sure to 
work them out, because the greater variey of frames 
you have, the more interesting your room will be. 




CHAPTER IX 
BASKET-MAKING 




Raffia, reeds, hat-braid, and sweet grasses are the 
most commonly used materials for basket-making, but 
prairie grass can also be made into pretty forms, and 
first of all, in this chapter upon basket-making, I am 
going to show you how to use this material because 
you can gather it near your home. 

Prairie-grass Baskets are built up of coils, each made 
of several strands of grasses, and upon the care with 
which the grasses are assembled and the turns of the 
coil joined to one another, depends the success of the 
basket. In gathering the grasses, pull long ones 
because less splicing will be necessary with them. The 
material must be damp, so that it will be pliable. 
Dried grasses will require dampening, but green ones 
will not. 

To Prepare the Grass Rope for the basket coil, lay 
together enough grasses of equal length to make a 
thickness a trifle less than the diameter of a pencil. 
Then grasp these grasses in your left hand, and taking 
a long strand of grass wrap it around the bunch from 
stem ends to blade ends, bringing the turns close to 
one another as shown in Fig. 198. When you reach 

105 



io6 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



the ends of the grass-blades, take another bunch of 
equal thickness and splice them on to the ends of the 
first bunch, lapping the ends about an inch (Fig. 199), 
and binding them together with the covering strand of 
grass (Fig. 200). 




Fig. 199 



Fig. 200 
Figs. 198-200 — Preparing the Grass Rope 

An 18-inch rope is long enough 

To Begin the Basket shown in Fig. 201. Figure 202 
shows how to start the basket bottom. Coil the end 
of the rope over on to itself, to form a small button 
(Fig. 202), then with a coarse needle, threaded with 
the stem of one of the grasses, or a piece of fine raffia, 
or common thread, sew the turns one to another, using 
a plain over-and-over stitch. Splice other bunches of 
grass on to the rope as you need them, and, as you 
build, sew each turn of the coil to the preceding turn. 
Draw the stitches tight, to make a firm structure. 



BASKET-MAKING 



107 



Continue build- 
ing one turn upon 
another, and pull 
in or spread ac- 
cording to where 
and how much 
you want the 
sides of the basket 
to flare. When 
the rim of the 
basket has been 
formed, cut off the 
end of the coil, 
and trim back the 
grass-blades to 
diff"erent lengths 
so that the coil 
will bevel off on 
to the rim. 




FiG.203 



FiG.204 




Fig. 202— Start of the Basket Bottom 



Fig. 201 



Fig. 201 — Basket Made of Grasses 

Fig. 203— The Handle Showing the Wire Core 

Fig. 204— How the Handle is Attached to the Basket 



Making the Han- 
dle. Use a piece of 
wire — electric-bell 
wire will do — for a 
center core for the 
handle, to give it stiff- 
ness, and place sev- 
eral strands of grass 
outside of the wire 
to add thickness; 



io8 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



then bind all together, and conceal them by wrapping 
a strand of grass around them (Fig. 203). 

To attach the handle, bend the end of the wire around 
the rim of the basket, as shown in Fig. 204; and fasten 
the ends of the grasses to the rim, also. 

Figure 206, on the page opposite, shows a photograph 
of the completed basket. Having made this one, 




Fig. 205 — Basket with Forked Handle 



Other Forms of Baskets will require simply a 
different manipulation in building up the turns of the 
grass coil. The introduction of different varieties of 
grasses, and of dyed grasses, also may be tried, and by 
using your ingenuity you will discover unlimited 
possibilities for shapes. 

Figure 205 shows 

A Basket with a Forked Handle. The only difference 
between the construction of this basket and the basket 
just described is in the handle. Make two of the 
uprights of this out of one piece of wire, bending the 




fH -< "^ 






fe W M 






5 I 



11^ ^ 



Sp5 






BASKET-MAKING 109 

wire to form a flat arch across the basket, and make 
the third upright out of another piece of wire, and join 
it to the center of the other piece (Fig. 205). Wrap 
the wires with strands of grass, to conceal them. 

The Raffia Basket shown in the photograph of 
Fig. 207 requires a No. 4 reed for a foundation to wrap 
the raffia on. All reeds go by numbers, according to 
size, and any dealer in handicraft working materials 
will know just what size to give you when you mention 
No. 4. 

Before starting the basket, soak the reed in water 
to make it pliable. Then, to begin work, shave one 
end of the reed to a point, wrap this end for a length 
of 1 inch with raffia, coil the end into a tight button 
like that described for the grass baskets (Fig. 202), 
and with a coarse needle threaded with the raffia, pass 
the raffia around the turns to hold the button in shape. 
Continue the basket-weaving in this manner: Wrap 
the reed with the raffia for the distance of an inch, then 
with the same piece of raffia stitch it to the preceding 
turn by passing the needle and raffia once around; 
wrap another inch of the length of the reed with the 
raffia, and stitch it to the preceding turn in the same 
way; and so on until you have wrapped and stitched 
eighteen rows in place. The eighteenth row will 
bring you to the sides of the basket, and at this point 
you must hold the reed looser as you wrap and stitch, 
so as to increase the diameter of the basket. 

When the desired height for the basket has been 



no HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

reached, cut off the reed, whittle the end to make it lie 
flat, wrap it with raffia, and bind it down to the edge 
of the basket with raffia. 

For the Handles, take two bunches of raffia 7 inches 
long and twist them together. Place these handles 
on opposite sides of the basket, and sew their ends to 
the basket sides with raffia. 

The Other Raffia Basket, shown in Fig. 208, is made 
in the same manner, but its sides do not flare out as 
much. 

The Hat-braid and Reed Basket shown in Fig. 209 
is made of No. 6 reeds and two bunches of fancy coarse- 
woven hat-braid, one of natural color, 1 inch in width, 
the other green, yi inch in width, and a piece of thin 
wood. This is a cover for a flower-pot. 

Draw a circle 4 inches in diameter upon the board, 
using a saucer-rim to draw around, and saw out around 
the marked line. This is to form the basket bottom. 
Then cut eighteen reeds, each 7 inches long, for spokes, 
divide the edge of the circular piece of wood into 18 
spaces, and tack the end of a spoke at each division 
mark; then bend a reed around the spokes at the 
points of nailing, and tack it in place. 

This completes the framework upon which to weave 
the braid. Using the wide braid, first weave a band 
of it around the reeds at the base, over the first spoke, 
under the next, over the next, and so on until the 
first is again reached; then cut off the braid and tuck 
in the end under a spoke. For the next row, use the 



BASKET-MAKING iii 

narrow braid, and weave a band of it in and out around 
the spokes in the same way that you wove the first 
band, for the third row use the wide braid again, for 
the fourth row the narrow braid, and so on until the 
ends of the spokes are reached. Finish off the work 
by weaving in two or three reeds to hold down the 
topmost braid band. 

Making Things of Paper Rope. There is no end to 
the articles that may be made out of paper rope. 
Baskets of every description, candle and lamp shades, 
many shapes of vases, porch lamps, table mats, whisk- 
broom holders, glove and handkerchief boxes, serving- 
trays, jardinieres, and flower-pots are some of the 
things which you can make. This work is easy for a 
girl to do, and it is fascinating. 

All that is needed are some 

Cardboard Boxes for Foundations, crepe-paper out 
of which to make rope strands for covering them, glue, 
and light wire for handles. You can buy the crepe- 
paper at almost any stationery store. 

Strands of Paper Rope are sold ready- twisted, but 
you can twist them just as well yourself, and can have 
the fun of doing it. Buy a roll of crepe-paper of any 
color you want. A chocolate-brown is pretty for the 
articles described upon the following pages. 

Open the roll of crepe-paper, and cut it across the 
grain into eight strips of equal width. That will make 
strips about 2>^ inches wide. 

To Prepare the Rope Strands, first take a single 



ZI2 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



strip, pinch one end in a door-jamb, and make a loop 
in the opposite end through which to sHp a pencil. 
Then twist the pencil from right to left, as indicated 
in Fig. 212, pulling firmly as you twist, to make the 
twists even and tight. When the strip has been 




Fig. 212 



Figs. 212 and 213 — How to Prepare the Strands of Paper Rope 

twisted tightly from end to end, remove it from the 
door, and twist a second strip in like manner. Then, 
placing an end of each of the two twisted strips together, 
pinch them in the door-jamb, slip a pencil in loops 
made in the opposite ends, and twist the two strands 
together, twisting from left to right, as indicated in 
Fig. 213. Instead of pinching the strips in the door- 
jamb, two persons may hold the ends and do the 




BASKET-MAKING 113 

twisting, which method will twist the rope more 
quickly. 

The Paper-rope Serving-tray shown in Fig. 214 
requires the cover to a large-sized cardboard box — 
one having a narrow rim — for a foundation, with a 
wire handle attached to each end. 

Putting on the 
Paper-rope Cov- 
ering. Lap and 
paste a strip of 
crepe-paper over 

the edge of the Fig.214-A Serving Tray 

box to conceal it, and then coat the outside surface of the 
rim with glue, and, starting at the bottom of the sur- 
face, wrap a strand of paper rope around and 
around the rim, pushing down each row of the rope 
close against the preceding row (Fig. 215). When the 
top of the rim has been reached, coat the inside surface 
of the rim with glue, run the rope over the rim, and 
wind it around the inside; then glue crepe-paper to 
the inside of the bottom, coat it with glue, and wind 
the strand of rope around and around, working in from 
the outside rim until the center has been reached. 
Cover the outside of the bottom in the same way. 
Nothing could be simpler than this work of gluing the 
rope strands in place. 

The Inside of the Tray Bottom may be covered with 
cretonne instead of paper-rope, if you wish, in which 
case the cloth must be covered with a piece of glass 



114 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 215 — How to Glue the Paper Rope Strands 
to a Cardboard Box Foundation. 



cut to the exact inside measurement of the tray. 
If cretonne and glass are used, they must be put in 
place before the rim is covered, so the rope will hold 
down the glass. 

The Wire Handles should be bent to the shape shown 
in Fig. 216. To 
attach them, pierce 
holes through the 
box ends for the 
handle ends to 
stick through, bend 
over the handle 
ends, and twist 
them around the 
handle as shown. Then wrap the handles, first with 
crepe-paper to conceal the wire, then with the paper- 
rope. 

The Paper-rope Jewel-box in 
Fig. 217 is made from a candy box, 
lined inside with silk, and wound 
outside with paper-rope in the Fig. 2 16 — How to Attach 
same manner as was directed the wire Handles 
for covering the tray. Make a cover out of cardboard 
cut to the right size to make a projection of }i inch 
over the sides of the box, and hinge it to the box with 
strips of tape. Then line the under side of this cover 
with silk, and wind the upper side with the paper- 
rope. 

Select a small square cardboard box for 




BASKET-MAKING 115 

The Paper-rope Basket shown in Fig. 218, and after 
covering it both inside and out in the manner described 
for the other articles, take two pieces of wire for the 




Fig. 217 — A Jewel Box. 

handle, cover each with crepe-paper, and then twist 
the covered wires together from end to end. Fasten 
the handle ends to opposite corners of the box, inside, 
either with fine wire or heavy linen thread. 

Figure 210 shows a photograph of 

The Same Basket with a Different Handle. Make 
the handle out of two pieces of wire, but instead of 
twisting the wires together, join them with short 
pieces of rope crossed back and forth from one to the 
other. 

A Pretty Hanging-basket for the porch may be 
made by covering a tall drinking glass with paper-rope, 
then twisting together two pieces of wire covered with 
crepe-paper, to form a long handle, and attaching this 
handle to the paper-rope. 

A Woven Paper-rope Basket like that shown in the 
photograph of Fig. 211 is made without a card foun- 
dation. The framework requires twelve wires 30 inches 



ii6 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



long, and the covering is done with crepe-paper strips 
1 inch wide, cut across the grain of the paper. Each 

wire must be wound 
with the paper, and 
a quick way to put 
it on is to fold the 
end of a strip over 
the end of a wire, 
then, holding the wire 
in the right hand, and 
holding the paper 
strip loosely, in the 
left hand, twirl the 
wire so as to make 
the strip wind upon 
it. Tear off the strip 
when the end of the 
wire has been reached 
and paste the paper 
to keep it from un- 
twisting. 

Separate the twelve wires into two sets of six each, 
cross them at their centers as shown in Fig. 219, and 
tie them temporarily with strong thread, to keep 
them in position. Then, bend out the wires so that they 
will be spaced equidistantly (Fig. 220), and begin the 
weaving by running a strand of the paper-rope, alter- 
nately, over two wires, and under two wires, as shown 
in Fig. 220, until the sixth row has been woven ; then 




Fig. 218 — A Paper Rope Basket (Fig. 210, 
shov/s the same basket with a Different 
Handle) 



BASKET-MAKING 



117 



cut off one of the wires, close to the last row, because 
from that point on we use a different method of weav- 
ing — that of weaving alternately over one, and under 
one wire, — and an uneven number of wires are necessary 




Fig. 219 — Start of Bottom 
for a Woven Paper- Rope 
Basket 



Fig. 220 — How to Weave the 
Bottom of a Woven Paper- 
Rope Basket 



to make the weaving come out right. After removing 
the end of the one wire, spread the others to make the 
spaces between the remaining wires equal. Then con- 
tinue the weaving, running the rope In and out around 
the wires, and pushing each turn of rope close up against 
the preceding turn so that no gaps will appear. When 
the flat bottom of the basket Is as large as you want to 
have It, bend up the ends of the wires, and then con- 
tinue the weaving, bending the wires In and out to 



ii8 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

form whatever shape of basket you wish. When the 
desired height has been attained, cut off the wires, 
leaving enough length to trim down about % inch and 
conceal in the edge around the top. 

Shellac the Rope Baskets with two coats of shellac, 
to harden the paper-rope and give it a glossy surface. 




CHAPTER X 
CORN-STARCH JEWELRY 




Necklaces, lavallieres, pendants, bracelets, watch- 
fobs, and all manner of pieces of jewelry, large and 
small, and of attractive design, may be made by the 
simple process which I am going to tell you about. 

The Materials needed are Inexpensive — corn-starch, 
common table-salt, cold water, fruit coloring, or 
water-colors, small crystal beads and pearl beads. 

The corn-starch, salt and water must be made Into a 
mixture for modeling, in the proportion of 1 table- 
spoonful of corn-starch, to 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, 
to 1 tablespoonful of cold water. If you wish 

To Color the Material, first add the fruit coloring 
or water-colors to the water. Then 

Mix the Corn-starch with the Water, and when this 
has been done heat the salt in a small pan, and when 
"piping hot" pour it In with the corn-starch and knead 
with your fingers until thoroughly mixed. With the 
mixture thus prepared, you are ready to make your 
first piece of jewelry. 

Fancy Hatpins are the simplest pieces to start with, 
and Figs. 221 to 225 show several pins with prettily 
designed heads that are easy to make. You need a 

119 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 





Fig. 

223 



Fig. 224 



Figs. 221 to 225 — Fancy Hatpins 




TOP 



SIDE 



Fig. 225 



common hatpin for the foundation, and you must 
build the fancy head upon this, molding the corn-starch 



CORN-STARCH JEWELRY 



121 



mixture about the common head into the form you 
wish to have it. A knife will help in trimming up 
surfaces, cutting sharp corners, and making straight 
edges. The beads on the top of the hatpin head shown 
in Fig. 225 are pearl beads, and are pressed into the 
molded head before the mixture hardens. 

The large beads of 

The Bracelet shown in Fig. 226 are made of the 
corn-starch mixture, the small ones between are 
crystal beads, and 
a string or cord is 
used to string them 
on. Roll the corn- 
starch beads be- 
tween the palms of 
your hands until 
they are perfectly 
round, then pierce 
holes through them 
before they harden 
to prepare them for 
stringing. 

When you have strung as many beads as are necessary 
to make the size of bracelet you want, join the ends 
of the cord with a strong, neat knot. 

The Watch-fob (Fig. 227) has a pendant made of 
the corn-starch mixture. The irregular-shaped piece 
in the center of the face may be a fancy button or a 
piece of colored glass; or if you own a stationery seal 




Fig. 226 — A Bracelet 



122 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 228 — A Pendant 




Fig. 227 A Watch-fob 




Fig. 229 — A Lavalliere 



CORN-STARCH JEWELRY 123 

you can stamp your monogram in that place. The 
ring at the top of the pendant is a fancy-work ring, 
and it is securely fastened with a small hairpin looped 
over it and extended down through the center of the 
pendant. A piece of silk ribbon, joined to the fancy- 
work ring and to the watch ring, completes the fob. 

The Pendant shown in Fig. 228 has a small hairpin 
extending from the top down through the center, with 
just enough of the loop left exposed at the top to form 
a ring. Small pearl beads are pressed into one face, 
in rows as shown, to complete the cross. 

The Lavalliere in Fig. 229 has a pendant made of the 
corn-starch material, but the beads are pearl beads. 
If you can get some of the gold cord that comes around 
candy boxes, it will be just the thing to use to string 
the beads upon; otherwise, use a silk cord. A hairpin 
must be embedded in the pendant to attach the cord to. 
Arrange the beads upon the cord in the manner shown 
in the illustration. 




CHAPTER XI 
HOME-MADE POTTERY 




When I have shown you how easily you can model 
Httle bowls, candlesticks, and vases, you will want to 
try your hand at this new method of pottery-making 
right away. 

Modeling Clay can be purchased wherever artists' 
materials are sold, but if there is clay soil where you 
live, free from other kinds of soil, it will do very well. 
Break the clay into small pieces, put the pieces into 
a deep pan or earthen crock, cover with water, and 
allow to stand until soft enough to knead like putty, 
but not wet enough to be tacky. 

Clay must always be kneaded before you model 
with it, because it contains air which if left in it would 
form air-bubbles in your pottery and spoil it. Work 
out this air by kneading in the same way that you 
knead bread. Also guard against making the clay too 
moist, because that causes pottery to sag, and sagging 
of course spoils the shape. 

You must have 

A Board to Work Upon, a pie-tin on which to build, 
a knife, a short stick, flat on one end and pointed on 
the other, and a ruler. 

124 



HOME-MADE POTTERY 



125 



Fig. 233 





Fig. 230 — A Jar (Fig. 235 shows the same jar ornamented) 
Fig. 231 — Pat out the Clay and Smooth it off, like this 
Fig. 232 — How to Cut a Circular Base. 
Fig. 233 — How to Build Up the Sides of the Jar 



126 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

To begin with 

The Jar in Fig. 230, put a handful of clay on the 
board, pat it out with your hand until it is % inch 
thick, and smooth off the surface (Fig. 231). Then 
take a coffee cup, invert it upon the base, and with 




FlG. 234 — How to Cut Strips of Clay for Building Up the Sides of the Jar. 

your knife trim away the clay outside of the rim 
(Fig. 232). 

To build up the walls, put a handful of clay on the 
work-board, and with a knife smooth it out into a long 
strip K ii^ch thick. Then with knife and ruler trim 
off one edge of the piece, and cut a number of strips 
^ inch wide (Fig. 234). Take one strip, stand it on 
top of the base, and rub its edge into the base (Fig. 233) 
on both sides of the strip; then take another strip 
and add it to the top of the first one, and continue 
building in this way, placing one strip upon another, 
joining each to the one beneath it, and smoothing over 
the joints as you build, until the walls are as high as 
you want them to be. Keep your left hand inside of 
the jar while you build, for support. Fill uneven 
places with bits of clay, and smooth out rough places 







^< 



O 1^ 

s < 



HOME-MADE POTTERY 



127 



with your fingers, having moistened your fingers with 
water. 

Figure 235 shows this same shape of jar ornamented. 
I will tell you how to ornament pottery, on page 131. 

The Candle-stick shown in Fig. 240 requires a round 
base yi inch thick and 4 inches in diameter (Figs. 243 




Fig. 241 
Fig. 240 — An Easily-Made Candle-Stick 
Fig. 241 — A Large Detail of the Candle-Stick 

Fig. 242 — A Cardboard "Templet" with which to Shape the Sides 
of the Candle-Stick 

and 244). After preparing this, put a lump of clay 
in the center, work it into the base, place another lump 
on top and work it into the first piece (Fig. 245), and 
continue in this way until the candle-stick has been 
built as high as you want it. Then force a candle 



128 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

into the moist clay, twisting it around until it has 
made a deep-enough socket for itself. 

A Cardboard "Templet" (Fig. 242), with one edge 
trimmed to the proper shape, makes it easy to get the 
walls symmetrical and the projecting cap on the top 
equal all around. Run the edge of the templet around 
the walls as you work, and it will show you exactly 
where and how much to fill out, trim and straighten. 

Another method of modeling a candle-stick is that 
used in making 

The Candle-stick with a Handle, shown in Fig. 236. 
Make a base just the same as for the other candle-stick, 
then cut strips of clay and build up the wall as you 
built that of the jar (Fig. 233), leaving a center hole 
just large enough to admit a candle. When the 
desired height for the wall has been reached, cut a 
strip of clay >^ inch wide and yi inch thick, and lay 
it around the top of the wall with a projection of }i 
inch over the wall. Smooth this piece on top, inside 
and outside with your modeling-stick and fingers. For 

The Handle prepare a strip 1 inch wide and Vi inch 
thick, and join one end to the top band and the other 
end to the base. Use a small lump of clay for filling 
in around where you join the piece, and smooth off the 
piece on all sides. 

When the candle-stick is finished, run a round stick 
of the size of the candle down into the hole, and let 
this stand until the clay is dry, to keep the candle-stick 
straight. Figure 246 shows 



HOME-MADE POTTERY 



129 




Fig. 245 



Fig. 2i3 



A Bowl, and Fig. 247 shows the shape of the templet 
required for getting the sides symmetrical. Figure 

237, 248 and 249 show 
Three Other 

Shapes of Bowls 
of attractive de- 
sign that are 
easy to make, 
and 
The Jug in Fig. 

238, and 
TheTwoVases 

in Figs. 250 and 
251 will also be 
simple pieces for 
you to try, after 
you have.learned 
the easy method 
of pottery mak- 
ing which I have 
given you. 

After you have made a vase, you might convert it 
into 

A Table Lamp. That is the way the lamp shown 
in Fig. 239 was made. This shade was constructed of 
copper strips riveted together, but you can use almost 
any other kind of a home-made or boughten shade. 
Get a lamp-socket, cord, and plug from a dealer in 
electrical supplies. 




Fig. 244 



Figs. 243 to 245 — Starting the Candle-Stick 



ISO HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 





Fig. 246 



Fig. 247 




Fig. 248 piG. 249 

Figs. 246 to 249 — Three Shapes for Bowls 




Figs. 250 and 251 — Two 
Shapes for Vases 



Fig. 251 



HOME-MADE POTTERY 131 

Drill a hole through the side of the vase, near the 
base, for the cord to run through, and after you have 
run the cord through it, and up through the open top, 
fill the vase with clay or plaster-of-Paris, attach the 
lamp-socket to the cord, and pull down on the cord 
until the socket is embedded in the plaster and clay. 
The plaster or clay filling will not only hold the cord 
and socket securely, but will weight the vase so that 
the shade will not overbalance and upset it. 

Pottery may be Ornamented by scratching a design 
upon it with the end of your modeling-stick. Figure 
235 shows a simple straight-line design that is effective 
and easy to put on. Use a ruler to guide the stick in draw- 
ing the lines. The ornamentation on the vase shown 
in Fig. 239 was modeled upon the surface, in relief. 

Glazing and Firing. Pottery that you buy is glazed, 
then fired in a pottery kiln (not a china kiln), but you 
probably will not be near a place where you can have 
this done, so will have to do without it. But firing is 
not necessary. The clay will dry hard enough, nat- 
urally, to keep its shape, and the only thing you must 
provide for is 

Waterproofing Pottery that is to hold water. This 
can be done with bath-tub enamel. Mix the enamel 
with pigments, for outside surfaces, and use your 
ingenuity to get pretty color effects. 

Keep Unfinished Pottery Covered with a wet cloth 
to prevent the clay from hardening while you are not 
working upon it. 




TFT 



CHAPTER XII 
HOME CHINA-PAINTING 




Perhaps you have had a longing to do some of the 
beautiful china decorating to be seen in the shop 
windows, but never realized that such an accomplish- 
ment for you was possible. When you have carefully 
studied the suggestions which I have prepared for you 
in this chapter, however, I am certain you will not be 
afraid to try your hand at the work, for you will see 
that talent is not so much required as a steady hand, 
a true eye, and a little knowledge of color, all of which 
can be acquired by practice and patience. 

Conventional China Decoration has almost entirely 
superseded the naturalistic painting so much in favor 
a few years ago, and this is the kind you will want to do. 
Richer, more restful tones are possible with it than with 
naturalistic painting, and the work is easier and much 
more interesting for the beginner. 

First of all, we must get together 

The Equipment Necessary for Painting. Figure 252 
shows illustrations of some of the articles. Make a 
copy of the following lists, and take them to the nearest 
art store: 

132 



HOME CHINA-PAINTING 



^33 



MINERAL PAINTS 
(Select A. Lacroix's China Colors in Tubes) 



Dark Blue 
Deep- Red Brown 
Capucine Red 
Carmine No. 2 



Brown-4-or-17 
Apple-Green 
Yellow Ochre 
Silver- Yellow 



Yellow-for-mixing 
Deep Purple 
Mauve 



(German) 
Brunswick Black 

GOLD 



1 box of Roman Gold 



CAMEL'S HAIR BRUSHES 



1 Square Shader No. 8 

1 Square Shader No. 3 

1 Pointed Brush No. 3 

1 Pointed Brush No. 1 

1 Small Pointed Brush No. 1 

1 Small Pointed Brush No. 3 

1 Square Shader No. 8 



(A Fig. 252.) 



Use tliese three brushes for ap- 
plying gold, for nothing else. 



MISCELLANEOUS EQUIPMENT 

1 8-inch by 8-inch glazed white tile to mix paints on (A, Fig. 252) 

1 Small Palette-Knife for mixing colors (B) 

2 Small Cups (such as cold cream comes in) to hold turpentine 

and painting medium ( C) 
1 Bottle of Turpentine 
1 Bottle of Painting Medium 
1 Small Bottle of Oil of Lavender Flowers 



134 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



1 Stick of India Ink 

1 Small Drawing- Pen (crow-quill) (F) 

1 China Marking-Pencil {E) 

1 Sheet of Tracing Paper 

1 Sheet of Graphite Transfer-Paper 

Gummed Paper for Attaching Tracing to China 

1 Brass Gauge (/) 

1 Plate Divider 

1 Glass Burnishing-Brush 

1 Sheet of Emery-Paper No. 00 

Wooden Toothpicks with cotton twisted around tips (G) 

Cotton-Batting out of which to make Pads like H, Fig. 252 

Pieces of old China Silk or old white silk handkerchief 

Pieces of clean Rags. 




Fig. 252. — Some of the Equipment Required for China Painting 
(In the above Lists these articles are marked correspondingly.) 

At the store where you purchase the above materials, 
inquire where you can have your 

China Firing done. Two firings are necessary for 
all work, the first after the outlining and gold have 
been put on, the second after all decoration has been 




am 



£-< 



- iiw i i ^ i mjf r^ ^ 

6 a 



lO J 



HOME CHINA-PAINTING 



135 







completed. Nothing short of a regulation china-kiln 
will do satisfactory firing. 

The simplest way 
of presenting 

A Beginner's 
Course in China- 
Painting is to take 
up the decoration of 
several simple pieces, 
and go through with 
the work from put- 
ting the design on 
to the bare china to 
applying the finishing 
brush strokes. This 
is the method I have 
followed in presenting, first of all, instruction for dec- 
orating 

The Bud-holder shown in Fig. 253. The design on 
this is a conventionalized corn-flower. In order to 
simplify the work of 

Copying the Design, I have presented a portion of it 
laid out to the exact size needed, in Fig. 259, and all 
that you will have to do is trace it upon a piece of 
tracing-paper, and transfer it ofT upon each space 
on the bud-holder. If your piece is of the same shape 
as that Illustrated, the design will repeat five times In 
the distance around It. 

To Divide the Circumference of a piece of china no 



Fig. 259. — Design for Bud-Holder shown in 

Fig. 253. 
(This design has been printed full size. Trace 
it and transfer it.) 



136 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

matter whether it be a plate or vase, the plate-divider, 
mentioned among the equipment, should be used. 
To divide the bud-holder's circumference into five 
equal spaces, for example all that you have to do is 
to place the holder on the center of the plate-divider 
sheet, find the points upon this sheet, and mark them 
off upon the sides of the holder with your marking 
pencil. By studying the divisions and figures on this 
ingeniously contrived plate-divider, you will easily 
learn how to apply them. 

With the bud-holder divided, take tracing-paper, 
place it over the design shown in Fig. 259, and 

Make a Careful Tracing of every part of the design ; 
then 

Transfer the Design. Place the tracing upon the 
china, with the center of the design exactly on one of 
the division marks, hold it in position while you slip 
a small piece of the graphite impression paper under 
the tracing, and stick the tracing to the china with 
pieces of gummed paper. Then go over the tracing 
with a pointed, hard pencil, being careful to keep the 
pencil on the lines, and not to miss any part. 

When the design has been gone over, remove the 
tracing and the graphite paper, and you will find 

The Outline Correctly Transferred to the china. 
As this outline will rub off easily, it is best to go over it 
with India ink. Dip the stick of ink in water and rub 
it down on a saucer. Then with the No. 1 brush and the 
ink, go over every line of your transferred design. 



HOME CHINA-PAINTING 137 

In a similar manner, 

Trace the Design upon the Other Divisions on the 

bud-holder, and when it is drawn out with India 
ink, and the ink has dried. 

Rub the Lines Gently with Emery-paper until they 
appear gray instead of black. 

Outlining is the next step. Squeeze a little Bruns- 
wick Black on the palette, then a tiny bit of Deep-Red 
Brown to make the color warmer. Mix the two by 
rubbing over and over on the palette with the palette- 
knife, and add a drop or two of Lavender Oil to make 
the mixture thin enough to use with the pen. 

Dip the pen into the mixed paint, then, holding the 
china with your left hand, go over every line of the 
design. Be very careful to get your lines uniform, 
strong, and firm, because on the general appearance 
of the outlining depends whether or not your finished 
piece will be a success. 

When the outlining has dried, the china will be 

Ready for the First Firing. If you do not know of 
somebody who has a china-kiln, and who does firing, 
any art store can direct you. 

After the firing has been done, the piece is ready for 

Mixing the Colors. We will make the flowers of the 
design Blue, and the center stamens Brown-4-or-l7, 
and we will make the leaves at the bottom of the 
design Apple-Green. 

Mix two-thirds Dark Blue with one-third Apple- 
Green, using a very little Lavender Oil to mix them 



138 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

with. When mixed, take up the paint with the palette 
knife, and place it on one side of the palette. Then 
take a little Brown-4-or-l7, mix it with a little Lavender 
Oil, and put it aside on the palette, also. For the 
leaves, mix Apple-Green with a tiny touch of Brunswick 
Black — just enough to tone up the bright green, 
then put this aside. 

The Painting is simple. Pour a little of the painting 
medium into a small cup. Dip the No. 3 pointed 
brush into the medium, and try out the brush on the 
palette, because too much oil will spoil the paint and 
make it blister in firing; then dip it into the mixed 
blue and lay in the seven little petals, being careful to 
paint close up to the outlines, and to lay the paint 
on smoothly, evenly, and thinly. 

Next, paint the five-pointed leaves at the foot of the 
piece, using the Apple-Green mixture, and working 
carefully as before. Paint as close up to the outlines 
as you possibly can. 

After the leaves, the stems are painted, and these 
are laid in with the same green, from the flower down 
and around the base to the leaves. Put the center 
stamens in the flowers with the brown paint, in the 
form of small dots. 

Instead of using gold on this bud-holder, you may 
paint a line around it on the top edge, with the blue. 
Put this blue on heavier on the line than you put it 
on the flowers. This will complete the piece, and it 
will be ready for the second and final firing. 



HOME CHINA-PAINTING 



139 



The Plate shown in Fig. 257 measures 7;^ inches 
from side to side. Yours should be of similar diameter. 
Lay your plate face down upon the plate divider, and 
mark it off into five equal divisions, which will give the 
proper spacing for the design shown. "Ten" on the 
divider will be found easy to use, after you have worked 
with it awhile. 

Using the Brass Gauge (7, Fig. 252), make a line 
around the plate yi inch from the edge, then another 




Fig. 260. — Design for Plate Shown in Fig. 257 
(This design has been printed full size. Trace it and transfer it five times.) 

line 1 inch from the edge. This will allow for a band 
y^ inch wide. 

Lay out the Design, tracing off on tracing-paper the 
full-size pattern shown in Fig. 260, and transferring it 
and outlining it in the way previously described. 

Putting on Gold. With the design outlined, you 
may put a line of gold around the edge of the plate, 
also on each line of the band. Take out of its box the 
glass slab that contains the gold, and with the palette- 



I40 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

knife spread out a little of the gold upon the glass, 
adding a very little bit of Lavender Oil. Dip the No. 1 
brush in the gold, and carefully go over the line around 
the top of the band, then the line around the bottom 
of the band. You may also put a gold line around 
the edge of the plate. Hold the plate in the left hand, 
and put on the gold with the third finger of your right 
hand. Dip the tip of the finger in the gold, then run 
it around the edge, rubbing on the gold as evenly as 
possible. This method for gilding edges of work is 
much easier than using a brush. Clean off any spots 
that may have been daubed on the front and back sur- 
faces, then the plate will be ready for the first firing. 
Gold must be put on twice and fired twice, to wear well. 

Burnish the Gold with the glass brush, before 
painting. It is well to work carefully with this brush, 
because particles of glass break off during the 
burnishing, and are likely to stick into the hands. To 
save discomfort, wear gloves. Spread a paper under 
the piece of china to catch the particles, and fold 
this up carefully and destroy, when you are through 
burnishing. Wipe the china to make sure that the 
surface is free from glass. 

Tint the Band that you have outlined with gold. 
Take some Silver- Yellow on your palette, and mix it 
with Lavender Oil, as described for preparing the 
other colors. Then with the No. 8 Square Shader 
Brush, dip into the painting medium, and rub the 
brush on the palette to work the oil well up into the 



HOME CHINA-PAINTING 141 

brush roots. Use little of the medium, because there 
is danger of misfortune if the paint becomes too oily. 
With the medium on the brush, dip into the Silver- 
Yellow on your palette; then paint the band from one 
line to the other, putting on the color as evenly as you can. 

Pat the Tint quickly and gently, with the Pad or 
Pounce (H, Fig. 252). This pad is made of a small 
wad of cotton covered with a piece of china silk; it 
must be soft, not a hard tight wad, and the silk must 
be free from wrinkles. 

Wiping. When the tint has been patted evenly, 
take a toothpick with a piece of cotton twisted about 
its point (G, Fig. 252), and with the point of this wipe 
out every bit of color that has been run over on to 
the flowers and beyond the top and bottom lines; also 
clean up all ragged edges of the gold lines that you 
may see. 

To Paint the Flowers and Leaves, mix the paints as 
described before, using a bit of Lavender Oil. For the 
flower in the middle of each group, use Yellow-for- 
Mixing, and for the round center of the flower use a 
bit of Yellow Ochre. The two small lower flowers on 
each side are red, so you must use the Deep-Red Brown 
on your palette; put this on thinly, then add a touch 
of Silver- Yellow to the centers. The upper flower on 
each side should be painted in with Yellow-for-Mixing 
and a touch of Yellow Ochre for the centers. Use the 
Yellow-for-Mixing for the buds, and Apple-Green for 
the leaves, mixed as directed before. 



142 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 261. — Design for Vase Shown in Fig. 254 
(This design has been printed full size. Trace it and transfer it three times.) 



HOME CHINA-PAINTING 143 

After the painting has been completed, apply the 
second coat of gold, and the plate will be ready for the 
second firing. 

The Vase illustrated in Fig. 254 is 7 inches high, and 
the design repeats three times in the circumference. 
Figure 261 shows the design printed full-size so you 
can trace it off on tracing-paper and transfer it in the 
same manner as was described for the other pieces of 
china. It will only be necessary for me to specify 

The Colors to Use. All of the lines are in gold; 
also the top edge. The daisies are painted a delicate 
blue, with a thin wash of Dark Blue, the small flowers 
in the upper part of the band are painted with Capucine 
Red, and the two little flowers that peep from under 
the leaf are in Deep-Red Brown. The leaves, including 
the tall upright ones at the bottom of the design, are 
in Apple-Green. The oblong spaces at the bottom of 
the vase are painted in Yellow-for-Mixing, inside of 
the lines of gold. 

Don't forget what I told you about applying the gold — 
the first application to be put on after the outlining 
has been done, before the first firing, the second coat 
the last thing before the final firing. 

The Smaller Bowl of the two shown in the photo- 
graphs (Fig. 255), for which a full-size section of the 
design for the inside is shown in Fig. 262, and for the 
outside in Fig. 263, has a wide line of gold put on 
around its top. The flowers inside of the bowl are in 
Capucine Red with Apple-Green leaves. On the 



144 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

outside of the bowl, the tint at the top is a very even 
wash of Apple-Green, afterwards patted as you patted 




Fig. 262. — Design for Inside of Bowl Shown in Fig. 255 
(This design has been printed full size. Trace it and transfer it twelve times.) 




Fig. 263. — Design for Outside of Bowl Shown in Fig. 255 
(This design has been printed full size. Trace it and transfer it twelve times.) 




Fig. 264. — Design for Bowl Shown in Fig. 256 
(This design has been printed full size. Trace it and transfer it three times.) 

the plate. The little round figures are made in gold, 
and the outline on the outside of the design is in gold. 



HOME CHINA-PAINTING i4S 

The Bowl with Feet (Fig. 256) is a piece of Seizi ware, 
a Chinese manufacture, with a delicate green tone 
beneath its glaze. This piece is decorated with little 
red berries, and leaves of a darker green than the 




Fig. 265. — Design for Cup Shown in Fig. 258 
(This design has been printed full size. Trace it and transfer it three times.) 




Fig. 266. — Design for Saucer Shown in Fig. 258 
(This design has been printed full size. Trace it, and transfer it three times.) 

tone of the china. Figure 264 shows a full-size pattern 
of the design used. The berries are laid in with 
Capucine Red, the under ones a little heavier than the 
upper ones. A band of gold Vs inch deep has been put 
around the top. 



146 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

The Cup and Saucer (Fig. 258) are both divided into 
three divisions. Figure 265 shows a section of the 
design for the cup, and Fig. 266 shows a section of the 
same design adapted to the curve of the saucer, both 
drawn full-size like all of the other design-sections, 
so all that you will have to do will be to trace them off 
and transfer them to the china. Gauge a line around 
both the cup and the saucer Vs inch from the edge, and 
another line }4 inch below that again, to form the 
band for the design. 

After transferring the design upon both cup and 
saucer, go over the bands with gold, gild the edge of 
both pieces, and wash gold over the handle. Then 
send the pieces to the kiln for the first firing. 

The band on both the cup and saucer is tinted with 
Apple-Green, the center flower is in Silver- Yellow, the 
small ones in Capucine Red, the lower petals a little 
deeper shade of the same color, and the stamens in 
Brown-4-or-l7. 

When the design has been painted in, put on the 
gold lines and handle for the second time, and have 
the second firing done. 

Now, having seen how the seven pieces of china 
shown in the photographs opposite pages 134 and 144 
are decorated, there should be no difficulty in your 
turning out a satisfactory piece of work all by your- 
self. 

You will not find it difficult 

To Adapt Designs to one shape that have been 



HOME CHINA-PAINTING 147 

given for another shape, and besides the designs given 
here you will be able to make use of those published 
from time to time in magazines, and you can also 
procure designs where you purchase your china and 
painting materials. 




CHAPTER XIII 
HOW TO COPY PICTURES 




It is possible to make an exact drawing of any picture 
that you may wish a copy of, by means of 

A Glass Reflecting-Frame like that shown in Fig. 267, 
and this unique piece of apparatus is very simple to 
make, as you will see by the detail drawing shown in 
Fig. 268. 

All that you need for the construction are two 
boards {A and B), two cross-pieces (C and D), and a 
small picture-frame with the glass fastened securely 
in place (E, Figs. 268 and 269). Almost any small- 
sized picture-frame will do, though one that has an 
opening about 8 inches wide and 10 inches long is of 
the best size if you can get it. 

The boards A and B should be about 1 inch longer 
than the picture-frame, and they should be square or 
nearly square. Place the pieces upon the pair of 
crosspieces 6 and Z>, with the edge of the picture-frame 
slipped between them, as shown, and nail them to the 
crosspieces, driving them tight up against the frame to 
hold it securely in an upright position. The copying 
apparatus will then be completed. 

To Make a Copy of a Picture, place it upon the left- 

148 



HOW TO COPY PICTURES 



149 



hand side of the frame, and place a piece of drawing- 
paper upon the right-hand side. Then, standing so 
that you can look into the left-hand side of the glass 
of the frame, you will see the reflection of the picture 
to be copied in the glass, and the piece of drawing- 
paper on the other side 
of the frame will be 
seen as a back ground 
to the reflection of the 
picture. Keeping the 
same position, it is now 
a simple matter to draw 
out on the piece of 
drawing-paper each 
line that you see re- 
flected in the glass. 
The copied picture 
will be the reverse of 
the original, as is in- 
dicated in Fig. 267. 

A simple and ex- 
act method of mak- 
ing a larger or smaller 
drawing of a picture is that known as 

Enlarging and Redux^ing by Squares. We will 
suppose that the picture of the rose in Fig. 270 is to be 
enlarged twice each way, as shown in Fig. 271. With 
a ruler and pencil, measure off a series of points across 
the top of the picture, and another series along one 




Fig. 267.— A Reflecting-Frame for 
Copying Pictures 



ISO 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



side, spacing them exactly y^. inch apart. Then rule 
lines from the top to the bottom of the picture, and 




Fig. 268. — The Completed Reflecting Frame 

j A B C P E F G H 




Fig. 269. — Detail of Frame 







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8 

Fig. 270.— How to Prepare the Pic- 
ture for Enlarging 



from side to side, starting each line from one of the 
points. (Fig. 270). 

When the picture has been squared off in this way, 



HOW TO COPY PICTURES 



151 



mark off a similar series of points along the top and 
down one side of a sheet of drawing-paper, but space 
them 1 inch apart instead of yi inch, (Fig. 271). Then 




Fig. 271 — The Picture Enlarged 

rule lines up and down, and from side to side, in the 
same way that you ruled them across the original 
drawing. Letter the ends of the up-and-down lines, 



152 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

and number the ends of the cross lines, so It will be 
easy to locate corresponding squares on the small 
and the large drawing. 

With the two drawings thus prepared, It Is but 
necessary to reproduce In each of the large squares 
exactly what you see Included In the corresponding 
small squares. 

You will often have occasion to reproduce a drawing 
In your handicraft work, and It will be worth your 
while to know the simple methods which I have des- 
cribed. 




CHAPTER XIV 



HOME-MADE 
RUBBER-STAMPS 




Possibly you never imagined such a thing as home- 
made rubber-stamps, but to make them — at least the 
large type and picture stamps I am going to tell you 
about — is simple work, and lots of fun, too. 

Flat Pieces of Rubber are Needed, and there are 
several sources from which you can get these. Mother's 
discarded clothes-wringer has a pair of rollers that 
can be stripped of their rubber covering, or you can 
use pieces of a worn-out hot-water bag, or a piece of a 
bicycle, motorcycle, or automobile tire. If you can't 
find any such pieces of rubber at home, perhaps you 
can get them from a friend. 

Material in Addition to the Rubber, that is required, 
includes thread spools on which to mount the stamps, 
glue, paper for patterns, and a 10-cent ink-pad; and 
you will need a knife with a very sharp small blade 
for cutting the rubber. 

Figures 272 to 276 show the steps for preparing 

A "Letter" Rubber-stamp. The hole in each spool 
must be plugged with a wooden peg (Fig. 272), and the 
peg must be cut off even with both ends of the spool, 
so that a letter may be mounted upon each. Cut a 

153 



154 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Fig. 272 




Fig. 274 Fig. 275 Fig. 276 

Figs. 272 to 276. — Steps in Making a " Letter 
Rubber Stamp 



square of rubber of the size of the letter you wish to 
make, and glue it upon the spool end; then with a 

Fig. ruler and pencil 
draw the letter 
upon the rubber 
(Fig. 273), or, if 
you have prints 
of large type taken 
from newspapers 
and magazines, 
you can cut out a 
„ letter and paste It 
upon the rubber. 
Paste the letter 
upside down, of course, because type must read back- 
wards to print correctly (Fig. 278). 

When a piece of 
rubber has been 
glued fast to the 
spool end, and the 
letter has been 
drawn or pasted 
upon it, 

Carve out the 
Letter with your 
knife, cutting care- 
fully along the outlines of the letter, and removing the 
pieces of rubber not wanted (Figs. 274 and 275). 

Make a Proof of the Letter by printing it upon a 




Fig. 278 Fig. 277 

Figs. 277 and 278.— A "Word" Rubber-Stamp 
How to Make and Use it 



HOME-MADE RUBBER-STAMPS 



iSS 



piece of paper, and then trim any places that show 
up rough. 



^^ 



Fig. 280 Fig. 279 

Figs. 279 and 280.— Prints made with the "Mule" Rubber Stamps, 
Show Two of the Many Possibilities for Poses 

To Complete the Rubber-stamp, cut off the edge of 
the spool end just below the letter (Fig. 276), so, by 
placing the cut off edge 
against the edge of a 
ruler (Fig. 277) it will 
be possible to print the 
letter exactly straight, 
and also get the letters of 
a word in a straight line. 

After you have made 
a complete alphabet of 
large single-letter 

stamps, try your hand p,o.281.-Pattern for Parts of the "Mule" 

at preparing Rubber-Stamp 




156 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Stamp 



A "Word" Rubber-stamp, like the one shown in 
Fig. 278. Go about the work of marking out the 
letters and carving them out, as in making single-letter 
stamps. 

Picture Rubber-stamps are no more 

TW difficult to make than letter stamps, but 

^/^eJJ-^^ they require larger pieces of rubber. 

Figures 279 and 280 show two possi- 

FiG. 282.— Holder j-^jij^igg (q^ picture making with the parts 

for Rubber- 

for a set oi 

"Mule" Rubber-stamps, and 
I Fig. 281 shows diagrams for 
0^^ the six stamps required to print 

/^t^ these pictures — A for the body, 

^^^^J B for the neck and head, C for 

^f^ ears, D the thighs, E the hock 

^^\ and hoof of the legs, and F the 

I tail. For a small set of stamps, 

you may trace the outline of 
the parts from the book, and 
transfer them to the pieces of 
rubber; for a set of larger 
stamps you can enlarge these 
diagrams by the process of "En- 
larging by Squares" described in 
Chapter 13 (Figs. 270 and 271). 
Figure 282 shows how to make 
Figs 283 and 284.- Prints R^bber-stamp Holders. Use 

Made with "Little Girl" . . . , 

Rubber-stamp picces of cigar-box wood tor 




HOME-MADE RUBBER-STAMPS 



157 



the flat pieces, and spools for handles, and tack the 
former to the latter. 

The "Little Girl" Rubber-stamps, 
from which the pictures in Figs. 283 
and 284 were printed, may be made 
directly from the patterns shown in' 
Fig. 285. A is the body, B the head, 
C the upper arm, D the forearm, E 
the legs, and F the hat. Prepare 
these parts and mount them in the 
same way directed for the other 
stamps I have told you about. 

Unlimited material for 

Other Sets of Rubber-stamps may 
be obtained from newspaper and 
magazine illustrations, which may 
be clipped, cut into sections, and ^ig. 285. — Patterns 

1 1111' r t-i- for Parts of the 

pasted upon blocked pieces of rubber, .^Little Girl" Rubber 
for carving. Stamp 





CHAPTER XV 



SCRAP-BOOKS, BOOK- 
JACKETS, AND OTHER IDEAS 




Every girl should own a scrap-book, for, assuming 
that she clips verse, anecdotes, recipes, handicraft 
articles, and pictures that she likes and wishes to 
preserve — and what girl does not? — it is the only 
satisfactory way of keeping them so that they may be 
found easily when wanted. 

If you haven't a scrap-book collection, now is a good 
time to start one. 

The Home-made Scrap-books shown upon the 
following pages are of the looseleaf kind, which make 
possible the removal of, or addition of, pages when 
and where wanted. 

The Covers of your scrap-book may be of cardboard 
cut from cardboard boxes. If you haven't any boxes 
at home, you can get them for the asking at a dry- 
goods store. 

The Scrap-book Leaves should be of manila wrap- 
ping-paper. Any merchant will sell you what is 
needed at a trifle more than it costs him. The size 
of your scrap-book pages should be regulated by 
the size of the sheets of wrapping-paper, so that 
the paper may be cut with little or no waste. The 

158 



SCRAP-BOOKS, BOOK-JACKETS, ETC. 



159 



pages should be X inch smaller all around than the 
covers. 

How to Prepare the Front Cover of the scrap-book 
in Fig. 286 is shown in Fig. 287. Cut a strip 1 inch 





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— 7 1 




7— 

f 

1 


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Fig. 286 Fig. 287 Fig. 288 

Fig. 286. — A Home-Made Scrapbook 
Fig. 287. — Detail of Scrapbook Cover 
Fig. 288. — Index Sheet 

wide from the binding-edge of this cover, and then 
with a piece of drilling about 3>^ inches wide hinge 
the strip to the edge you cut it from. Coat the piece 
of drilling with glue, and fold it over the strip so that 
its edges will lap over both the upper and lower surfaces 
of the cover. 

Punch three holes through 

The Back Cover and through the hinged strip of the 
front cover, one near each end and one through the 
center. These holes may be made with the small blade 
of a penknife. 

If you haven't a punch for 



i6o 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Punching the Leaves of the scrap-book, use the 
point of a nail. Figure 288 shows 

How to Index the Pages, with tabs lapped and 
pasted to both sides of the sheet, and Fig. 289 suggests 




Fig. 289.— How the Scraps are 
Mounted 

an arrangement of scraps. 
When an article occupies 
both sides of a clipping, 
paste it along one margin 
as shown. 

Lace the Covers and 
Leaves together with a 
shoe-lace. Pass the lace 
down through the center 
holes, along the outside 
of the back cover to one 




Fig. 291 



Figs. 290 and 291.— Another Style of 
Covers for a Home-Made Scrapbook 



SCRAP-BOOKS, BOOK-JACKETS, ETC. 



i6i 



end, up through the holes at that end, along the front 
cover to the holes at the other end, down through these 
holes, along the back cover to the center holes, up 
through them, and tie the ends In abow-knot (Fig. 286). 

By Finishing 
the Covers with 
denim, canvas, or 
cambric, lapping 
and sewing the 
cloth to both 
sides of the front 
cover (Fig. 290), 
and providing 
flaps upon the 
piece fastened to 
the back cover 
(Fig. 291), a more 
attractive scrap- 
book will be ob- 
tained, and the 
leaves will be pro- ^^ — ^10. 293 

tected by the Fig. 292.— a Scrapbook Made Like a Letter-File. 
flaps,' which fold f'lcs. 293 and 294.— The Box and Cover for 
" 1 ,1 Scrapbook 

up and over them. 

Figure 292 shows 

A Scrap-book made like a Letter-file. Get a card- 
board box about 10 inches wide, 12 Inches long, and 
3 inches deep, separate one long side from the corners, 
and with a strip of linen hinge it to open as shown in 




l62 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Fig. 293. Then cut a strip about 1 inch wide from 
one long edge of the cover, and hinge it back in place 
with a linen strip (Fig. 294). Place the cover upon 
the box, and sew the turned down side edge and ends 
of the hinged strip to the box. The scrap-book will 
then be ready for its pages which may be prepared as 
shown in Figs. 288 and 289. 




Fig. 295.— A School-Book Jacket 



Protect the covers of your school books with paper 
or cloth 

Book-jackets of one of the forms shown upon the 
following pages, and the books will look as fresh and 
new at the end of the school year as they did when 
purchased. Then brother or sister, to whom they 
are handed down later, will have no reason to complain 
of having to use old books. These jackets are put on 



SCRAP-BOOKS, BOOK-JACKETS, ETC. 



163 



so quickly, too, that it is a simple matter to replace 
them when soiled. 

Heavy glazed brown wrapping-paper makes the 
best 

Paper Jackets (Fig. 295). If you have none in the 
house, get a sheet or two from your grocer. Place the 
book to be covered upon a piece of the paper (Fig. 296), 
open it, and mark out around the edges of the cover, 
then measure off a margin of 2^" or 3 inches outside of 




Fig. 296, — Leave a Margin of 2 J^ or 3 inches Around the Book 



this, and cut out the piece. Next, cut away the 
corners A (Fig. 297), and cut and bend over the tabs B. 
The dotted line represents the outside line of the 
covers, and with this as a guide it is a simple matter 
to snip away corners A with a pair of scissors. Tabs 
B should be as wide as the book is thick, and should 
be located in the center of the top and bottom margins. 
Cut their edges obliquely as shown. 



164 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



After folding the tabs, place the opened book inside 
of the margins, and fold flaps C, then the flaps D, over 
on to the covers (Fig. 295). Daub glue or mucilage 
upon the under side of the ends of flaps D, and press 
down upon flaps C. On jackets for large covers, it 
is best to increase the widths of flaps C and D, so there 
will be a greater width of laps to paste. 

Cloth Jackets are more durable than paper ones. 




Fig. 297. — Diagram for Cutting School-Book Jacket 



Grey or brown cambric dress-lining is best. Cut the 
cloth exactly the same as described for the paper 
jacket (Fig. 297), but instead of pasting the flaps 
together, tack their corners with thread (Fig. 298). 
Then lace thread back and forth from the upper flaps 
to the lower ones, as shown in Fig. 298, pulling the 
lacings taut to make the cloth fit the covers snugly, 
and to hold it in place. 



SCRAP-BOOKS, BOOK-JACKETS, ETC. 



165 



If you are handy with a pen or brush, you can 
Letter the Book Title upon the jacket, as indicated 




Fig. 298. — Another Form of School- Book Jacket 




Fig. 299. — Letter the Book Title on Cover as Shown above 

in Fig. 299. This work should be done before the 
jacket has been put on, so the ink or paint will not 
soak through on to the book-covers. 



i66 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 300 
Fig. 300. — A Canvas School-Book Jacket 




Fig. 301 



I i i "1 


1 1 






t 1 

• • 

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5 ■ t 


1 ' — ' ' 


1 =^^^^^^^s 


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Fig. 302 
Figs. 301 and 302. — Details for Folding Canvas 
Jacket 



The Canvas 
Jacket shown [in 
Fig. 300 requires 
heavy material 
because it must 
be stiff enough 
to hold its shape. 
The dotted lines 
in Fig. 301 in- 
dicate the mar- 
gin to leave 
outside of the 
book-covers, also 
the lines on 
which to fold. 
The top and 
bottom margins 
should be 1>^ in- 
ches wide, the 
side margins 3 
inches wide. 
Fold the top and 
bottom margins 
over first, as 
indicated in Fig. 
302, then the side 
margins; and 
tack the under 
folds of the ends 



SCRAP-BOOKS, BOOK-JACKETS, ETC. 



167 




Fig. 303 (Unfolded) Fig. 304 (Folded) 
Figs. 303 and 304. — A Pencil-case 



of the side mar- 
gins to the folds 
of the top and 
bottom margins. 
The result will be 
a pocket on each 
side edge of the 
jacket (Fig. 300). 
In putting the 
jacket upon the 
book, it is but 
necessary to slip 
the book covers 
into these pock- 
ets. 

To keep pencils 
and the pen- 
holder from scat- 
tering about in 
the school desk, 
every girl should 
have a pencil- 
case. A small 
box may be made 

out of cigar-box wood, with a cover hinged on with 
cloth or leather hinges, but the 

Cloth Pencil-cases shown in Figs. 303 and 307 are 
easiest for a girl to make. 

Cretonne of a dark color, with a small pattern, is 




Fig. 305 Fig. 306 

Figs. 305 and 306. — Diagram for Cutting and 

Folding Pencil-case 



i68 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

the best material to use. For the case shown in Fig. 
303, first cut a piece of cloth 7 inches wide and 8^ 
inches long (Fig. 305). Then turn down 2 inches of 
its length {A, Figs. 305 and 306), and stitch the turned- 
over edge as indicated by the row of small dots in 
Fig. 306. The heavy dotted line in Fig. 306 indicates 
where to make the second fold, to bring side B over to 




Fig. 307.— Another Style of Pencil-case 

the opposite side. Turn in enough of the side and 
bottom to conceal the cut edge of the cloth; then 
stitch along the side and across the bottom. 

The pockets are partitioned off with up-and-down 
rows of fine stitching. In a holder of the width given, 
five rows of stitching will make six pockets of the right 
size so the pencils will fit snugly. If you like, one or 
two of the pockets may be made a trifle narrower than 
the others, to provide for slim pen-holders. 



SCRAP-BOOKS, BOOK-JACKETS, ETC. 



169 



Sew a short piece of tape to the center of one side of 
the holder, to provide for tying the holder in a roll 
(Figs. 303 and 304). 

Some of you girls will prefer 

The Other Style of Case, shown in Fig. 307, because 
of its pocket for erasers, pencil-sharpeners, pen-knife, 
pens, pencil-ends, etc. Figure 308 shows the pattern 




Fig. 308. — Pattern for Pencil-Case Shown in Fig. 307 



by which to cut the cloth; also, how the edges should 
be turned over slightly, or else be bound with a narrow 
braid, to conceal the raw edge. The dotted lines 
indicate the folding. One outer third (A) folds over 
on to the center third (B), to form the pocket, and it is 
stitched to B along the top and bottom edges ; and the 
other outer third (C) is provided with small pockets 
for pencils. Form the pencil pockets with pieces of 



170 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 309. — A Pen-Wiper 



tape. Stitch the bottom tape along the bottom edge, 

as well as at the ends. Partition off the pockets by 

rows of stitching. 

Sew a dress snap-fastener to parts A and B, for 

fastening shut the large pocket, and sew a piece of 

tape to the center of the 
back of the case for tying 
it after it has been closed 
and rolled up. 

The Pen-wiper shown 
in Fig. 309 is composed of 
four layers of light-weight 

flannel,cut4>^, 3^, 3and 2X inches, respectively, in dia- 
meter, and sewed together through their centers, with 

a fancy button sewed to the top. 
Figure 310 

shows the four 

circular pieces 

placed one on 

top of the other. 

This diagram 

also shows by 

dotted lines how 

to prepare the 

pieces by first 

folding over a 

square of cloth 

from top to bottom, then from side to side, and then 

from corner to corner, into the form of Fig. 311. Cut 





Fig. 310 
FiG.s 310 to 312. — Diagrams for Cutting Pen- 
Wiper 



SCRAP-BOOKS, BOOK- JACKETS, ETC. 



171 



off the upper corner on an arc of a circle, as Indicated 
by the dotted line in Fig. 311, and notch the folded 
edges (Fig. 312). 

Use two colors of flannel, alternating them, and you 
will have a most attractive pen-wiper. 



Fig. 313 



Fig. 314 



A Drawing-instrument Protector. Never carry a 
pointed instrument in your pocket, or lay it away in 
your desk, without protecting its points. A cork 
pushed far enough on to the points to hold fast, makes 
an excellent protector (Figs. 313 and 314). 




jiMi 



Wim 



CHAPTER XVI 



A HAT-BOX DOLL 
APARTMENT 




You might not imagine that by cutting down along 
one corner, then across the bottom of a hat-box, the 
sides may be opened out to form a splendid little doll- 
house, yet this is how the unique three-room apartment 
shown in Figs. 315 and 316 was made. 

Transforming the hat-box, cutting the doors and 
windows, making the inside woodwork out of strips 
of paper, the window curtains out of scraps of lace, 
and the rugs out of scraps of cloth, and building the 
furniture out of spools and cardboard, is all such 
simple work that a girl can entirely complete the 
apartment in an afternoon. The compact form into 
which the walls may be folded, with the box-cover 
fitted down over them to hold them together (Fig. 317), 
is another feature of this hat-box apartment. 

The Hat-box should be one of the substantial kind 
with lapped and pasted corners, not the flimsy folded 
kind. If one corner of the box is weaker than the 
other, that is the one to cut. 

How to Prepare the Box. Use a sharp knife, and, 
after slitting the corner from the top to the bottom, 
draw a straight line across the bottom from this corner 

172 




Fig. 317. — After Playtime the Halves are Folded into their Original 
Box Form, and the Cover Put on to Hold them Together 




Fig. 315. — The Open Halves of the Hat-Box, Showim; om Half Fur- 
nished AS A Dining-Room, and the Other Half as a Bedroom 







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^fi 


h 




Fig. ;{16. — View OpposiTE to that in Fig. 315, Showing the Space Bi 
tween the Halves Furnished as a Living-Room 




A HAT-BOX DOLL APARTMENT 173 

to the corner opposite, and cut the cardboard on this 
line. With the bottom cut, one of the halves can 
be swung half-way around into the position shown in 
Figs. 315 and 316. 

Reinforce the Corner on which the halves swing, to 
keep it from pulling apart, by gluing a strip of linen 
over its entire length. This strip will serve as a hinge. 

One half of the opened box will form 

The Dining-room of the apartment, the other half 

The Bedroom (Fig. 
315), and the space be- 
tween is 

The Living-room (Fig. 

316). A floor for the Fig. 3 is — This Triangular Piece is 

living-room must be cut '^\ Living-Room Floor, Cut to Fit 

° , Between the Box Halves. 

from a piece of card- 
board, triangular in shape (Fig. 318), to fit exactly 
between the halves of the box. Make this piece of the 
exact size of one of the bottom halves. 

Use a ruler and pencil with which to 

Locate and Mark Out Doors and Windows. Make 
the doorway leading from the dining-room into the 
living-room about 4 inches wide by 8 inches high, the 
doorway from the bedroom into the living-room of the 
same height by 3 inches wide, and the bedroom and 
dining-room windows 3 inches wide by 6 inches high. 
Place the doorways in the center of the walls, the 
dining-room windows near the corners, and the bedroom 
window to the far corner of the room. Be careful to 



174 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

get the tops of the windows even with the tops of the 
doorways. Use a sharp knife for cutting the openings, 
and cut exactly on the Hne. 

After cutting the openings, the next thing to do is 
to finish the inside of the walls. Use brown wrapping- 
paper to represent 

The Dining-room Woodwork. Paste narrow strips 
of this around the openings, a wider strip around the 
walls at the floor for a baseboard, and a strip of the 
same width around the top of the walls for beams. 
There should be 

A Wainscoting in this room, made of paper of a 
lighter brown than that used for the woodwork, and 
this should be divided off by narrow strips of the 
darker-brown paper to form panels; also, a strip of the 
same darker-brown paper should be run around the top of 
the wainscoting for a plate-rail. Above the wainscoting 
the paper lining of the box may be left for the wall finish. 

The Buffet is built in between the windows. Figure 
319 shows how it is made. A box of the length of this 
space, 2 inches wide, and lyi inches high is required 
for the lower portion (^, Fig. 319). If you cannot 
find a candy box of these proportions, cut down a 
larger box.' ,The upper portion B may be cut from a 
box-cover. Make it of the length of A^ and \}i inches 
wide, with a narrow projecting rim glued around its 
edge as shown. Cut the top shelf C large enough to 
form a projection of Vk inch over the front and ends 
of B, and glue it to B. The top of the buffet is sup- 



A HAT-BOX DOLL APARTMENT 



175 



ported upon columns made of two spools each, glued 
together end to end (Z), Fig. 319). Glue the lower 
end of the spool col- 
umns to A and the 
upper end to B. 

If you can get a 
small piece of mirror, 
fasten it to the 
dining-room wall in 
the proper place so 
it will come between 
the buffet columns 
and between the 
lower portion A and 
upper portion B; if 
not, glue a piece of 
tinfoil over this por- 
tion of the wall. Then 
glue the back edges of ^'^- ^^^"f'^s^p^.^j^nd' 
the buffet to the wall. 

If the paper lining of the hat-box is grey, leave it 
for the finish of 

The Bedroom Walls. In that case, use strips of 
white paper for the door and window woodwork and 
the baseboard. Paste a narrow strip to the walls 
even with the tops of the doors and windows, and to 
this glue a piece of wrapping-twine, for 

A Picture-molding (Fig. 315). Above the picture- 
molding make a frieze of 




-Room Buflfet, Made 
Cardboard. 



176 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

Pictures cut from magazines. Paste other small 
pictures here and there upon the walls, and indicate 
picture-wire by drawing pencil lines from the pictures 
up to the molding. 

Curtains for the dining-room and bedroom windows 
may be made out of scraps of lace. Fasten these at 
the tops of the openings with small tacks. 

The outside surface of a hat-box is usually of a 
different color from the inside, and perhaps the color 
of your box will be just right for 

The Living-room Walls (Fig. 316). If not, cover 
these walls with a plain blue, green, or red paper. 
Paste a wide strip of a different shade of paper around 
the top of the walls for a frieze, and make the door 
woodwork, baseboard and picture-molding of strips of 
brown paper. 

The Doll Furniture shown in the illustrations is 
made of spools and cardboard. The backs and seats of 

The Chairs for both the living-room and dining-room 
may be made similar to the pattern shown in Fig. 320 
— the seats IX Inches square, the backs 3}i inches 
high. Make one or two bedroom chairs with seats 
and backs hke the pattern shown in Fig. 321 — the 
seats l}i inches square, the backs 2}i inches high. 
Round the top of the back, and cut three openings 
through It as shown. Glue each chair seat to a spool end. 

The Living-room Table Is made by nailing a thin 
piece of wood 3 inches wide and 5 Inches long to four 
spools of equal size (Fig. 316), and 



A HAT-BOX DOLL APARTMENT 



177 



The Dining-room Table is made by gluing a circular 
piece of cardboard 4>^ inches in diameter to the end of 
a large spool (Fig. 315). 




Fig. 322 




Fig. 321 



Fig. 320 



Fig. 320.— Cardboard Seat and Back for Living-Room Chairs 
Fig. 321. — Cardboard Seat and Back for Bedroom Chair 
Fig. 322.— Table with Drawer Made Out of a Pill-Box 

The Bedroom Table which is shown in Fig. 315, 
has a top made of a pill-box, the kind with a sliding 
cover (Fig. 322). The pill-box forms a drawer, and 
this is opened by means of a collar-button inserted 
in the end of the box (^4, Fig. 322). Glue the pill- 
box to a spool pedestal. 

The Four-poster Bed (Fig. 323) has four spool legs 
{A), upon which a piece of cardboard 4 inches wide 
and 7 inches long, with edges turned down (B) is glued 
at its corners. Four round sticks, of the diameter of 
a pencil and 4 inches long (C) fit into the spools for 
corner posts. 



178 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Rugs made from scraps of cretonne, denim and felt 
will provide the finishing touches to the furnishings of 
the doll apartment. 

Plans and directions for building 




Fig. 323 — Four-Poster Bed 



A Unique Doll Apartment Building of three stories 
are given in Chapter 16 of "Home-made Toys for Girls 
and Boys", and plans for a doll-house, a garage or 
stable, and for many pieces of doll furniture are given 
in other chapters of the same volume; also additional 
suggestions for furnishings, including ideas for home- 
made light-fixtures. 




CHAPTER XVII 



CARDBOARD-BOX DOLL 
FURNITURE 




Cardboard boxes — large, small, round and square 
ones, suggest many possibilities for pretty doll furni- 
ture. I have shown you several designs in the preced- 
ing chapter, several designs are shown in this chapter, 
and you will think of other designs when you have 
gathered together an assortment of shapes and sizes 
of boxes and placed them before you on your work table. 

The Doll-bed shown in Fig. 324 is made from a 
candy box or box in which fancy stationery has come. 
Get the kind of which the box telescopes into the cover. 

In Fig. 325, A shows how the foot and sides of the 
bed are made from the box, and B shows the cover 
used for the head and canopy. Cut away the sides of 
box A as indicated by dotted lines, to make them of 
the form shown in Fig. 324. Then cut and bend down 
the head end of the box, (Fig. 325) and, slipping this 
inside of the cover, fasten it with glue or by sewing with 
needle and thread. This completes the bed shown in 
the illustration. You may elaborate upon it, if you 
wish, by gluing cardboard feet to the bottom. 

An inverted pill-box, with the cover removed, is 
needed for the top of 

179 



iSo 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



The Table shown in Fig. 326. The legs (B) are made 
of pieces of cardboard folded as shown in Fig. 327, and 

they are glued or 
sewed inside of 
each of the four 
corners of the box 
top. 

A Table of more 
Elaborate Design, 
though one quite 
as easy to make, is 
shown in Fig. 328. 
Like the table 
in Fig. 322 (Chap- 
ter 16), the top of 
this table is a pill- 
box, the kind that 
has a sliding cover 
(A, Figs. 328 and 
329). Cut the 
two sides {B) of 
the form shown 
in Fig. 329,' and 
fasten them to the 
sides of the box 
with glue or by 
sewing. A collar-button pushed through a hole pierced 
in the end of the drawer (Fig. 328) forms a good knob. 
The Arm-chair (Fig. 330) is made out of the sliding 




Fig. 324. — A Bed 

Fig. 325. — Detail of Bed 



CARDBOARD-BOX DOLL FURNITURE 



i8i 





Fig. 327 



Fig. 326.— A Table 
Fig. 327.— Detail of Leg 



cover of a pill-box. The dotted lines In Fig. 331 show 
the necessary cutting. The chair seat is made by 
folding back the 
upper portion of 
the side used for 
the front of the 
chair, and gluing 
or sewing it be- 
tween the arms. 
A small box- 
cover forms the 
seat of 

The Straight- 
back Chair 

shown in Fig. 
332. The legs 
are formed of 
two pieces of 
cardboard (A 
and 5, Fig. 333), 
one having a slit 
cut from its bot- 
tom edge to the 
center {A), and 
the other from 
its top edge 
down to its 
center (B). By 

cutting the slits Fig. 328.— a Table with Drawer 




HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 329. — Detail of Table 
with Drawer 



Fig. 330.— An 
Arm-Chair 



Fig. 331.— How to Cut 
Down Box for Arm-Chair 




Fig. 332 



Fig. 334 



Fig. 332.— A Straight-Back Chair 

Fig. 333 and 334. — Details of Chair Base 



CARDBOARD-BOX DOLL FURNITURE 183 

in this manner, the pieces will fit together as shown in 
Fig. 334. Glue or sew them together, and then fasten 
to the under side of the seat. The chair back is made 
of a piece of cardboard of the width of the seat, and 
is glued or sewed to the rear edge of the seat. 

Other Ideas for Doll Furniture, made of cigar-box 
wood, of cardboard, and of spools, are presented in 
Chapters 17, 18 and 19 of "Home-made Toys for Girls 
and Boys." 





CHAPTER XVIII 
A DANCING DOLL 




The little dancing doll shown in Fig. 335 will dance 
as gracefully as a fairy and will keep time to whatever 
music you may furnish. 

The Materials required to make it are a piece of thin 
white cardboard, a coarse thread and needle, some 
pink water-color paint or a pink crayon-pencil, four 
broom-straws, and a piece of tissue-paper. 

The first thing to do is 

To Prepare the Parts of the Doll, and as these are 
shown natural size In Figs. 336 to 339, they can be 
traced off from the page on tracing-paper. Only one 
arm and one leg are shown, because the patterns can 
be reversed for the other arm and leg. Transfer the 
tracings upon light-weight cardboard. 

To Assemble the Parts, pierce holes through them 
with a pencil-point or a hat-pin, at the points A, B, 
and C (Figs. 336 to 339), and join the correspondingly 
lettered holes with thread, tying a knot on each end 
of each thread enough larger than the holes to keep 
the parts from slipping off. Figure 340 shows the 
completed doll. The circular piece with the center 
cut out of it, shown In Fig. 341, fits down over the 

184 



A DANCING DOLL 



185 



doll's body, resting upon Its hips, (Fig. 340). It is 
cut through on one side to make it easier to slip it over 
the doll's body. This piece forms the top of 

The Standard which supports the doll while dancing. 
Pierce four holes through it, near the outer edge, and 




Fig. 335. — Tap the Cardboard, and the Doll will Dance 

at equal distances apart; insert a broom-straw in each 
hole, bend the top over, and glue it to the cardboard 
so that it will not slip out. Cut off the lower ends of 
the straws so that they will extend just a trifle below 
the doll's feet when the doll is stood upon its broom- 
straw standard. 

To Dress the Doll, cut a strip of tissue-paper Z}4 
inches wide and 25 inches long, pleat or gather it, and 



i86 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



sew it around the doll's waist for a skirt. Then make 
a waist out of the same material and sew it in place. 



Fig. 338 




Fig. 336 Fig. 339 Fig. 337 

Figs. 336 to 339. — Full size Patterns of Parts for Dancing Doll 

Cut a pretty head of the right size from a magazine, 
and paste it to the doll's head, then color the face and 
arms a flesh-pink and paint the shoes and stockings to 
match the dress. 



A DANCING DOLL 



187 



Fig, 341 



To Make the Doll Dance, place her upon a piece of 
cardboard with the end of the cardboard extending over 
the edge of the table, tap the edge of the cardboard 
with your fingers, and you will be delighted with the 
gracefulness of the little dancer. 

By making several 
other dolls, using this 
one as a pattern, you 
may arrange all upon 
the piece of card-board 
and have 

A DolPs Dancing- 
party. The dolls 
should not be made to 
look alike, but as dif- 
ferent as possible. This 
will be quite easy to 
do. A variety of 
pretty heads will be 
found by a careful 
search among fashion 

pictures and magazine illustrations, and with tissue- 
papers of different colors to work with, there will be no 
limit to the number of styles of pretty party dresses 
that you can devise. Tissue-paper doll-dressing is fun, 
and just the right kind of fun for an afternoon when 
the weather is too disagreeable for you to play outdoors. 




Fig. 340 



Fig. 340.— Assemble the Parts of the Doll 
like this 

Fig. 341. — Top of Standard for Support- 
ing the Doll 




CHAPTER XIX 
TOY WHIRLIGIGS 




Though so simple that they require almost no time 
to prepare the toy whirligigs in the illustrations make 
up for their lack of construcive work in being fun- 
producers that amuse as long as there are new friends 
to show them to. 

The Paddle Whirligig in Fig. 342 requires a disk of 
alternate white and black rings like that shown in 
Fig. 343. Describe the rings with a compass upon 
cardboard, and fill in every other ring with black ink; 
then trim the cardboard even with the outside of the 
disk, leaving a strip on one side for a handle. 

To Operate the Toy, hold the handle in one hand, 
give the disk a rotary motion, and look steadily at the 
center of the disk. In an instant you will discover the 
black and white rings of the disk to be revolving in 
the direction oppositcj to that in which you are rotating 
the disk. They do not actually revolve, of course. 
The effect is merely an optical illusion. By giving the 
book the same motion, you can produce the same 
effect with the diagram on the page. 

Figure 344 shows another application of the same 
optical illusion in 

188 



TOY WHIRLIGIGS 



189 




Fig. 342. — The Paddle Whirligig 



A Speeding Auto- 
mobile. Give the pic- 
ture a rotary motion, 
focus your eyes upon 
the center, and the 
wheels will appear to 
turn. Hunt up a 
larger picture of an 
automobile, paste it on 
cardboard add whirli- 
gig wheels, and you 
will have a better 
whirler. 

The Buz z-s a w 
Whirligig shown in 
Fig. 345 can be made 
with a cardboard disk 
of the size of that in 
Fig. 343, with saw- 
teeth cut around its 
edge (Fig. 346), or a 

disk cut from the end of a tin can, or a large button 
(Fig. 347). Two holes must be pierced through the 




Fig. 343. — Detail of Disk 




Fig. 344. — A Speeding Automobile 



190 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



cardbard or tin disk for the operating cord to pass 
through. Use cotton string for the cord, and after 
sHpping it through each hole, allow a projection of 
12 inches, cut off, and knot together the ends. Slip 
the first finger of each hand through an end loop, and 

Fig. 346 Fig. 347 




Fig. 345. — The Buzz-Saw Whirligig 

Fig. 346. — Detail of Cardboard Disk 

Fig. 347. — Whirligig Made from a Large Button 

whirl the disk in one direction until the string Is 
twisted from the ends as far as the center. Then pull 
firmly on the string and the disk will whirl in the 
opposite direction until the string has become untwisted. 
Slacken your hold and the string will twist up again. 
Alternate the pulling and the slackening of the string, 
in this way, and the disk will spin continuously, first 
in one direction, then in the opposite. 



TOY WHIRLIGIGS 



191 



The Magic Pinwheel Whirligig in Fig. 348 consists 
of a stick with notches along one edge, and a thin chip 
of wood fastened at its exact center by a pin to the 
end of the stick (Fig. 349). Cut the notches of equal 
size. Make the 

hole in the chip Fig. 349 

just large enough 
so that the chip 
will turn easily, 
and drive the pin 
pivot exactly 
straight. 

Hold the pin- 
wheel in the left 
hand as shown in 
Fig. 348, to oper- 
ate it, and with a 
coin in the right 
hand rub vigor- 
ously along the fig. 349 
notches. This will 

cause the stick to vibrate, and the vibrations will 
make the chip spin around. The direction in which 
the pinwheel revolves may be determined by the 
positions of the first and second fingers of the right 
hand. To make it spin from left to right, allow the 
first finger to rub along the upper edge of the notches; 
to make it reverse, press the second finger against the 
lower edge of the notches. The positions of the fingers 




FiG.348.- 



Operating the Magic Pinwheel Whirligig 
- Detail of Pinwheel Whirligig 



192 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

can be changed without attracting the attention of 
any one, and you can thus make the pinwheel turn In 
either direction you command it to without any one 
detecting how you do It. 

A tack driven Into the stick below the notches, at 
about the point where the thumb of your left hand 
will strike, will add to the mystic appearance of the 
pinwheel. A person invariably notices this the first 
thing when he sees you operate the wheel (you can make 
it a point to press your left thumb against the tack), 
and thinks he has solved the trick. But when you 
let him have the toy, he will soon find out that all his 
pressing and pulling upon the tack will have no effect 
upon the wheel, and beg you "to put him on to" the 
trick. 




ii 



CHAPTER XX 
A POSTCARD COLORSCOPE 




With the home-made colorscope shown in Fig. 350 
you can make uncolored picture postcards appear 
colored, and colored cards in other colors than those 
in which they have been printed. The little toy with 
which to produce these color effects is very simple 
in construction and can be made quickly. 

The Colorscope Case is made of a shoe-box and 
Fig. 351 shows how the box and its cover should be 
prepared. Cut the opening A in one side of the box, 
near one end, about 3 inches wide by the full depth of 
the box. Then from the rim of the cover cut a piece 
of corresponding width, in the right position to come 
directly over the opening in the side of the box. 
Across the top of the cover, at the same end of the 
cover that opening A has been cut through, cut a slot 
about ]4 inch wide {B, Fig. 351). Leave about J4 
inch between this slot and the side edges of the cover. 
In the end of the box opposite to that on which you 
have been v/orking, cut a pair of holes about IK inches 
in diameter. Space the pair 1 inch apart, and place 
them in the exact center of the box end, as shown. 
With the cutting done, fasten the cover to the box 

193 



194 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 350. — The Postcard Colorscope 




Fig. 351. — The Postcard Colorscope 



with paper strips 
pasted in place as 
shown in Fig. 350. 

Figures 352 
and 353 show 
how to make 

The Holder for 
Postcards that 
are to be viewed 
in the colorscope. 

The dotted 
lines in Fig. 353 
show where to 
bend the edges. 
Fold the side 
edges over to 
form the grooves 
for the pictures to 
slide into, and 
bend the lower 
edge out straight 
for the pictures 
to rest upon. The 
tab upon the top 
edge is provided 
for raising and 
lowering the 
holder through 
slot B In the box 



A POSTCARD COLORSCOPE 



195 



cover (Fig. 351). Fig.353 
Make the holder 
of the right width 
to fit loosely into 
slot B, and of the 
right height so its 



A 




top edge will come p^^g^ 352 and 353.— Details of Postcard Holder 

a trifle above the 
box cover when 
the holder has 
been dropped 
through the slot 
(Fig. 350). 

All that now re- 
mains to complete 
the toy is 

The Color 
Screen, and this 
is shown in detail 
in Figs. 354 and 
355. It consists 
of a cardboard 
disc about 12 in- 
ches in diameter. 
Cut it from a large 
cardboard box, us- 
ing the rim of a 
dinner plate with p^^ 3^^ 

which to mark out Figs. 354 and 355.— Details of Color Screen 




196 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

the outer circle of the disk, If you haven't a compass. 
Three openings of an equal size should be cut In this 
disk, with strips left between them just wide enough 
to hold the center In place, and a rim around them 
wide enough to be rigid (Fig. 354). Get three 
pieces of tissue-paper — red, yellow, and green, if 
possible, and paste them over the openings In the 
disk as shown in Fig. 355. Then punch a )4-'inch. hole 
through the center of the disk, and fasten a small 
silk-thread spool over the hole for a hub. Tack 
through the disk Into the end of the spool, as indicated 
in Fig. 354. To the outer edge of the rim, fasten a 
common thread spool for a handle. 

For Mounting the Disk upon the box, you need a 
stick shaft, and a hole must be punched through each 
side of the box, in the position shown at D (Fig. 351), 
for this shaft to run through. The spool hub should 
fit snugly upon the shaft, so disk and shaft will turn 
together. Make the shaft long enough to extend 
through the box and project an inch beyond the 
farther side, and drive a pin or brad through the 
projecting end to keep the shaft from pulling out of 
the holes. 

To Operate the Colorscope, slip a postcard into the 
holder, and drop the holder through the slot in the box 
cover; then stand beside a window, with the side of 
the box on which the disk Is mounted turned toward 
the light, look through the pair of holes In the end of 
the box, and turn the disk handle so as to allow the 



A POSTCARD COLORSCOPE 197 

light to pass through each of the three pieces of colored 
tissue-paper. The light passing through the yellow 
tissue-paper will produce a sunlight effect, that passing 
through the red will produce a sunset effect, and that 
passing through the gree an effect of moonlight. 




m 



CHAPTER XXI 

A HOME MOVING-PICTURE 
SHOW 




The fun of the little moving-picture show commences 
the minute you begin to work upon it, and it lasts as 
long as you want it to, because there are always new 
pictures to plan and make. 

The very first thing to prepare is 

The Support for the Picture Screen, for which you 
will need a box. Almost any kind of a grocery-box, 
approximately 18 inches wide and 2 feet long, will do. 
Remove one of the bottom boards of the box (Fig. 356), 
for a doorway. Then cut a piece of cardboard long 
enough to reach across the top of the box from side 
to side, {A, Fig. 357), cut an oblong opening in its 
center, as shown in Fig. 357, and tack to the box edges 
in the position shown in Fig. 361. 

The upper and lower boards B support the picture 
rollers D (Fig. 361). Make them about 12 inches 
longer than the width of the box, and with a saw cut 
a 1-inch square notch in opposite corners, as shown 
in Figs. 358 and 362. These notches form pockets 
for the picture-roller ends to turn in and the strips C 
(Fig. 358), nailed to the edges of the board, hold the 
rollers in the notches. Nail boards B to the two ends 

19S 



A HOME MOVING-PICTURE SHOW 



199 



Fig. 360 



^^=^__zr- 




^^ 


OPENING 


, 




A--""^^ 



of the box, with the front edges projecting about an 
inch beyond the front edges of the box, and with the 
pair of roller pock- 

*. • ^u Fig. 357 

ets in the upper 
board directly 
over the pair in 
the lower board. 

Broom-handles, 
curtain-poles, or 
any other round 
wooden sticks that 
you can find will 
serve for 

The Picture 
Rollers {D). Cut 
them of the right 
length so that 
their tops will Fig.356 
extend several 
inches above the 
top board B when 
they are placed in 
their pockets (Fig. 
361). A diagram 
of a roller is shown 
in Fig. 359, and a detail of the crank for turning it is 
shown in Fig. 360. For the crank (Fig. 360) fasten a 
thread spool, (£) to the end of short stick {F), and 
then nail the upper end of the roller to the end of the 




Fig. 358 Fig. 359 

Figs. 356 and 357. — Details of Support for 

Picture Screen 
Figs. 358 to 360. — Details of Picture-Roller 



200 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



stick. The nails G, Fig. 359 are driven into the roller, 
after the roller ends have been slipped into their pockets. 
Their purpose is to keep the rollers from moving up 
and down, Fig. 361. 

The Picture 
Strips are made of 
white cloth and 
are cut about an 
inch wider than 
the oblong open- 
ing in the piece of 
cardboard A. To 
these strips the 
pictures are 
pasted. Enough of 
the strips should be 
sewed end to end to 
make a continu- 
ous strip at least 
20 feet in length. 

Select Pictures 
from Newspapers 
and Magazines. 
Color them with 
crayons or water- 

-colors, and arrange them upon the cloth strips in some in- 
teresting order. Fasten them with flour paste. Tack each 
end of the picture strip to a picture-roller, passing the cloth 
over .the front of the opening in the piece of cardboard A . 




Fig. 362 
Fig. 361. — The Completed Framework 
Fig. 362. — Supports for Picture- Rollers 



A HOME MOVING-PICTURE SHOW 



20I 



To Complete the Picture Theatre there remains now 
only the enclosing of the front of the framework so the 
audience cannot see you operating the roller cranks. 
This is done with cloth (Fig. 363). Get a piece large 
enough to reach from the upper board B to lower 
board B, and from end to end, and tack it to the two 
edges of these boards, stretching it tightly. Then 




Fig. 363. — The Moving Picture Screen as Viewed by the Audience 



cut an opening in the center exactly in front of the 
opening in the piece of cardboard A. A board nailed 
across the top of the framework will conceal the cranks, 
and will provide a good sign board on which to letter 
the words "Moving- Picture Show". A sheet hung 



202 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

from each end of this board, and a piece of cloth draped 
over the front of the table on which the framework is 
placed, will complete the concealment. 

Reel the Pictures from One Roller onto the Other, then 
back again, by turning first one crank and then the 
other. A light placed inside of the box will illuminate 
the pictures from behind. 




CHAPTER XXII 



A HOME-MADE 
TELEPHONE 




This Is not the kind of telephone the boys use. 
No indeed, that kind costs lots of money to make, and 
it would be no better as a play telephone than the 
simple one I shall describe and illustrate for you in 
this chapter. This telephone outfit will not carry a 
message a long distance, 'tis true, but it will work 
splendidly from one room to another, or from your 
house to the house next door, and that is plenty far 
enough for play telephoning. 

There must be two telephones, of course, one for 
your chum and one for yourself. 

The Telephone Instruments are very simple to 
construct. Each is made out of a tin can, and you 
talk into and listen through the same tin can. Figure 
364 shows a girl talking, and Fig. 365 shows a girl 
listening. 

How to Prepare the Tin-can Instruments. A pound 
corn can, or a can of equal size, should be obtained for 
each instrument. A tomato-can will do, but it is 
rather large and awkward to hold, and therefore will 
not serve the purpose as well. If you will examine the 
ends of a preserve can, you will discover that one end 

203 



204 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



is smooth and the other end is not. The smooth end 
is the bottom, and the other end or top has a hole 
cut in its center and a piece of tin soldered over that 
hole. This end of the can, with the center-piece of tin 
removed, forms a splendid mouthpiece for our telephone 




Fig. 364. — Talking at one End of the Line 

(Fig. 369). The center-piece of tin is easily removed. 
All you have to do is place the can, with this end down, 
in the flame of a gas-burner for an instant, to melt the 
solder, and the piece will drop out (Fig. 366). Hold 
the can on the end of a large kitchen spoon, then you 



A HOME-MADE TELEPHONE 



205 



will not burn your fingers. The ragged edges of the 
"opened" end of the can should also be removed, and 
the easiest way to do this is by holding the can in the 
flame of a gas-burner until the solder which holds the 
end in place has melted, when a few taps upon the 




Fig. 365. — Receiving at the Other End of the Line 



edges, with a kitchen spoon, will cause the cut end to 
dropoff (Fig. 367). 

The end of the can having the full opening must be 
covered with paper. A piece of the tough brown 
paper now so generally used for wrapping-paper is 
good enough covering material. Dampen the paper, 
then stretch a piece of it over the end of the can, bring 



2o6 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 





Fig. 366 



Fig. 367 



Figs. 366 and 367. — How the Tin-Can Telephone 
Instruments are Made 



the edges down over the sideof the can, and bind them 
securely with half a dozen or so turns of thread (Fig. 

368). When the 
paper has dried, 
it should be tight 
as a drum-head. 

Heavy linen 
thread should be 
used for 

The Telephone 
"Wire. Carefully 
pierce a hole 
through the exact 
center of the 
drum end of each 
instrument, with 
a pin, slip an end 
of the thread 
through this hole, 
and make a knot 
large enough so 
that it will not 
pull out. Pull 
the knot close up 
against the inside 
of the drum. 

Figure 364 shows how the telephone wire is fastened 
to the chair-back with a short piece of string. Wher- 
ever you make a turn, the thread must be kept from 




Fig. 369 Fig. 368 

Figs. 368 and 369. — End View of the Complete 
Telephone Instrument 



A HOME-MADE TELEPHONE 207 

touching any object by supporting it in a similar 
manner. The thread must be stretched tight while 
the telephones are being used, and the instruments 
must be held so the knotted end of the cord pulls 
against the inside face of the paper drum. Be careful 
not to pull hard enough to make the knot tear the 
paper. 

An Excellent Telephone Booth can be made of a 
chair, as you will see by looking at Figs. 364 and 365. 
The chair can be enclosed on all sides and the top, if 
you wish 

To Make It Like a Real Telephone Booth. Fasten 
a side stick to each side of the chair, binding its lower 
end to the front leg with string, then extend a sheet 
or other piece of cloth from these sticks to the chair back 
and across it, and fasten a piece over the top. Another 
piece of cloth, fastened to the edge of the top covering, 
to drop down over the back, will complete the booth. 




""l||FHIll1ll I! I "t< 



CHAPTER XXIII 
FUN FOR HALLOWE'EN 




A Hallowe'en party, if it be ever so small an affair, 
requires previous preparation to make it a success, 
and the planning and making ready will furnish several 
days of good fun. Get your chum to help, but do not 
let the other girls into your plans because these should 
be kept a secret. Send every girl 

An Invitation, long enough ahead of time so that no 
other party engagement will be made for this evening. 
The invitation should be in verse, and following are two 
suggestions, either one of which you may use: 

On Hallowe'en, if you'll attend 
A ghostly frolic at my home, 
You'll learn what fate is yours, dear friend, 
When goblins sly and spirits roam. 
8 : 30 o'clock. 

Come Hallowe'en to my home and see 
What signs portend your destiny, 
And with the aid of magic know 
What life may hold of weal or woe. 
I'll greet you at the garden gate 
In mystic garb, at half past-eight. 
208 



FUN FOR HALLOWE'EN 209 

Then, having sent the invitations, do not fail to drop a 
hint now and then as to what strange things are to be 
revealed. That will make everybody curious, and all 
will arrive at your home at the appointed hour, anti- 
cipating an evening of thrills. 

Either you or your chum, dressed as 

Jack Pumpkinhead Should Meet the Guests at the 
door, and lead the way to the rooms in which wraps are 
to be laid off. Jack is a most awe-inspiring usher, as 
well you can imagine by a glance at his portrait in 
Fig. 370, which shows him arrayed for a Hallowe'en 
frolic. 

A Pumpkin Jack-o'-Lantern Forms the Head, and 
this may be prepared like any one of the three forms 
shown in Fig. 372. The large teeth of the head at the 
left, the colored paper backing of the eyes, nose, and 
mouth of the center head, and the turban upon the 
head at the right, greatly change the features, and by 
studying these photographs you will discover how 
widely different the facial expressions may be made 
simply by cutting the openings of different shapes. 
When preparing your lanterns for Hallowe'en, try to 
vary them so no two will look alike. 

Jack's pumpkin head must be supported upon your 
head by means of 

The Framework shown in Fig. 374. Shelf A is 
nailed to bracket piece B, and hand-stick C is nailed 
to both A and B. Nail the pumpkin to shelf A ; then 
reinforce the fastening with cord run through the 



2IO 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




pumpkin from side to side. To steady the jack-o'-lantern 
upon your head, grasp the stick C with the left hand. 

Jack*s Blouse is of red cheese- 
cloth, with a fold provided as a 
sleeve for the right arm; 

Buttons are made of the rinds 
of halves of oranges, and these are 
sewed to the cheese-cloth with 
heavy linen thread; and 

A Pleated Collar is made out of 
white paper or cambric. 

The Staff is a broom-handle. 
Wrap it with red cheese-cloth, and 
push a hollowed orange jack-o'- 
lantern over the end of the staff 
for a head (Fig. 375). Tie a bow 
of ribbon beneath the head for a 
necktie. 

In the room where wraps are to 
be left, station 

A Ghost. This may be a dummy 

ghost, made as shown in Figs. 376 

■ to 378. Bind the handle of a 

broom to a chair-back with cord, 

turning the broom portion up for 

The Head (Fig. 377). Fasten a false-face to the 

side of the broom for the ghost's face, or make a face 

out of white paper, marking eyes, nose, and mouth 

upon it with black paint or ink. To complete 



u 




Fig. 374 Fig. 375 
Fig. 374. — Framework 
for Supporting Jack Pump- 
kinhead's Head 
Fig. 375.— Detail of Staff 



FUN FOR HALLOWE'EN 



211 



The Body Framework, tie a 3-foot stick at its center 
to the broom-handle just below the broom head, for 
arms, and brace 
the ends of this 
stick with cords 
extended down 
to the chair 
back, as shown. 

For the 
Ghost's Gown, 
drape a sheet 
around the 
chair, drawing 
this close up to 
the head, and 
fastening it at 
the top to the 
broom straw. 
Then hang a 
pillow-case, or 
other white 
cloth, over the 
cross-piece ends 
for sleeves (Fig. 
376). 

Make the Hood out of a pillow-case, folding this 
into the form shown in Fig. 378, with a peak at the top, 
and the front turned up. 

The Witch shown in Fig. 371, whom you may call 




Fig. 376. — A Ghost 



212 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Witch Hazel, may also stand guard in the dressing- 
room. She is built upon a dressmaker's form. Her 
head is a pumpkin jack-o'-lantern, fitted over the top 

of the form. The 
photograph sug- 
gests how to 
dress her in a 
cape and gown, ' 
and a peaked hat. 
There must be 
A Witch to 
Tell Fortunes, in 
addition to 
Witch Hazel, 
and a good outfit 
for her is a gray 
d r e s s i n g-gown 
and cape, a 
peaked hat, a 
pair of spectacles, 
and a broom. 

Figure 373 sug- 
gests a good plan 
for 

The Witch's 

Wigwam. A 

Christmas-tree 

standard with a clothes-pole fastened in it, supported 

this; and sheets were used for the covering material. 




Fig. 377 
Fig. 377. — Framework for Ghost 
Fig. 378. — The Pillow-Case Hood 



\ 



FUN FOR HALLOWE'EN 



213 



Rope 



Corn-stalks at either side, a tripod supporting a caul- 
dron over a make-believe fire, and a harvest moon upon 
a cloth background supplied the proper setting, 
all of which are easily arranged. 

The Make- 
believe Fire is 
prepared by 
placing the bulb 
of an electric 
drop-cord be- 
neath a few 
sticks, with a 
piece of red 
tissue-paper 
covering the 
lamp, and the 
way 

To Produce a 
Moonlight Ef- 
fect is by placing 
another electric- 
lamp back of the 
moon. Let the 
room be lighted 
entirely by 
"moonligh t" 
and "firelight". 

Figure 379 suggests a scheme for 

The Witch's Cauldron, a use for which I shall give 




Fig. 379 
Fig. 379.— The Witch's Cauldron 
Fig. 380. — How to Hang a Dish-pan for a Cauldron 



214 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



suggestions later. A large black kettle is best, but if 
you cannot get one, take a dish-pan, tie a rope around 
its outside just below the rim, as shown in Fig. 380, 

^^^ and to this rope 

^^ attach three ropes 

or chains at equal 
distances apart by 
which to suspend 
the pan. Mop 
handles, a rake or 
hoe-handle, and 
clothes-poles may 
be used for the 
sticks of the tri- 
pod. Cross the 
upper ends and tie 
them, as shown. 

Perhaps you will 
prefer 

A Witches Cav- 
ern, built in a 
doorway like the 
one shown in Fig. 
381, instead of the 
wigwam. This is 
easily built. Place 
a chair several feet 
back of the doorway, and bind two sticks to the chair- 
back in such a way that their tops will extend 6 inches 




Fig. 381.— The Witch's Cavern 




Fig. 383.— The Front, 
Showing Door Closed 



Fig. 382.— Inside of 
the Cavern 



FUN FOR HALLOWE'EN 215 

or so beyond the sides and about 18 inches above the 
back (Fig. 381). Then run a piece of clothesline across 
the tops of the sticks and over to nails in the door- jambs 
(Fig. 382) , and over these ropes hang sheets to enclose the 
sides and roof of the cavern. The door may be closed 
each time a guest is admitted, but place a light within 
that will be sufficient to light the cavern dimly. Placard 
the door of the cavern as indicated in Fig. 383. 

Now, with Jack Pumpkinhead, the ghost, and the 
witches, and a witch's wigwam or cavern provided for, 
let us arrange for 

Stunts for the Evening's Entertainment. Bobbing 
for apples, doughnut-eating contests, ghost-story telling 
and a host of other old-time diversions will probably 
always be popular for Hallowe'en. New ideas are 
devised from time to time, but usually ancient games 
and rites are the basis for them, and often with a little 
rearrangement you do not recognize an idea that is 
really very, very old. Some of the ideas presented 
upon the following pages are new, while others are old 
ones in new dress. 

Did you ever hear of this method of 

Fortune-telling? The guests are sent one at a time 
to the witch's wigwam (Fig. 373) or cavern (Fig. 383). 
There the witch hands them a mirror, which after being 
breathed upon, tells what the future holds forth for 
them. 

This is how the trick is done. The witch writes 
the fortune upon the mirror with French chalk, then 



2i6 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

rubs it off with a handkerchief so that no trace of the 
writing can be seen. After this, when the mirror is 
breathed upon, the moisture makes the writing visible. 

Another Idea for Fortune-telling is to have the 
guests seat themselves upon the floor, forming a circle 
around the cauldron, while the witch stirs the brew out 
of which she declares the fortunes are about to come. 
As she stirs the brew, the witch should talk continu- 
ously, but incoherently, and with a mumbling of her 
words so that no one gets any idea of what she is 
saying. 

The contents of the cauldron should be walnuts that 
have had their kernels removed and replaced with 
slips of paper, then the shells glued together again. 
On the pieces of paper should be written directions as 
to where the guests will find a card foretelling their 
fortunes, such for example, as: "Behind the mantel 
clock"; "Back of the hall radiator"; "In the fireplace"; 
"Under the corner of the living-room rug". 

After the witch has stirred the potion for a while, 
she should pass the nuts around. Then begins the 
cracking open of the nuts, and the reading of instruc- 
tions upon the papers within, followed by the merry 
race to the hiding-places of the fortune-cards. 

There are all sorts of 

Other Ways of Telling Fortunes. Here are a few 
suggestions for witty prophecies, and you can match 
your wit in patterning others after them: "I see many 
good things in store for you — the grocery store!" 



FUN FOR HALLOWE'EN 



217 



"You are going to make a journey — when you go 

home to-night!" "You will lose something priceless, 

then find it — your breath, I think!" "Young man, 

you will soon be earning fifty dollars per — perhaps!" 

"You take after 

your mother — 

sometimes, she 

takes after you!" 

"There is a bright 

outlook for you 

—lookout!" 

A good way of 
telling fortunes 
without the 
witch, is by 
means of 

The Twirling 
Pumpkin method 
shown in Fig. 384. 
The fortunes 
should be written 
in ink upon the 
sides of the 
pumpkin, and 
the pumpkin 

suspended in a Fig. 384. — Pumpkin for Fortune-Telling 

doorway by 

means of a cord tied to its stem. Then the girls and 

boys are given a hat-pin, in turn, and after the pumpkin 




2i8 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

has been started whirling, they pick out their fortunes 
by jabbing the hat-pin into the pumpkin. 

You must not overlook 

Ghost-story Telling. To give the proper^ setting 
for this, the room should be lighted by the burning 



Fig. 385 




Fig. 386 
Fig. 385. — Enlarge this Sketch upon a Sheet for the Game of Pinning the 

Tail upon the Witch's Cat 
Fig. 386. — The Rope Cat's Tail 

of salt and alcohol, in a dish, which produces a weird 
light that gives everybody and everything about it a 
ghastly appearance. 

Pinning the Tail Upon the Witch's Cat is lots of fun. 
Upon a sheet or large piece of wrapping-paper, make a 
drawing of a witch astride of her broom, with her cat 



FUN FOR HALLOWE'EN 219 

seated behind her. Figure 385 shows a sketch for 
this, and you can enlarge it by the process of enlarging 
by squares described in Chapter 13 (Figs. 270 and 
271). Uvse black crayon or charcoal for drawing the 
picture. 

Prepare the Tails from short pieces of clothes-line, 
with a small safety-pin sewed to one end, as shown in 
Fig. 386, and provide as many tails as there are guests. 
Dye the tails black to match the color of the cat. 

Blindfold the guests, one at a time, turn them about 
once or twice, and start them off in the direction of the 
cat, with instructions to pin the tail upon the cat. 
There should be a prize, of course, for the boy or girl 
who pins the tail nearest the right position for it, and 
a booby prize for the one who pins the tail farthest 
from the right place; and in addition to the prizes, 
allow everybody to carry home a tail for a souvenir. 

A new way of arranging 

A Doughnut-eating Contest is to give different 
lengths to the strings by which the doughnuts are 
suspended; then select the lowest-hung doughnuts 
for the tall boys and girls to eat, and the highest-hung 
doughnuts for the short boys and girls to eat. This 
makes the contest more difficult and more exciting, 
and the sight of the tall guests attempting to eat while 
bent nearly double, and the short guests striving 
equally hard while standing upon tiptoes, presents 
a ludicrous sight for those looking on. 

When all is ready for 



220 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Choosing Partners for Supper, give each boy a card 

with a name written upon it with 

Invisible Ink, made of baking soda and water. The 

cards will appear blank when distributed, because the 

writing will not 
be visible. When 
the cards have 
been distributed, 
direct each boy to 
pass his card over 
the flame of a 
lighted candle 
which you have 
placed upon a 
table. When 
held over the 
flame for a few 
seconds, the writ- 
ing will appear 
in brown, and 
the partner's 
name will thus be 
revealed. 

Figures 387 
and 390 show 

A p p r p r i ate 
Table Favors. 
The head of the 
goblin (Fig. 387) 




Fig. 391 



Fig. 390 
Figs. 387 to 389.— How to Make Goblin Table 

Favors 
Figs. 390 and 391.— How to Make Witch Table 

Favors 



FUN FOR HALLOWE'EN 221 

is an orange hollowed out jack-o'-lantern fashion, 
and a small bottle forms the body. Figure 388 in- 
dicates how the head should be fastened to the 
bottle by means of a cork (A) pushed down through a 
hole in the orange, into the neck of the bottle. Make 
a collar of white paper, a gown of colored tissue-paper, 
and a paper cap like that shown in Fig. 389. 

Make the witch favor, shown in Fig. 390, in the same 
way the goblin is made, but with an apple head. 
Figure 391 shows a detail of the witch's peaked hat, 
which is made of paper. 




CHAPTER XXIV 



A HANDICRAFT BOOTH 
FOR A FAIR 




Here is a plan for a booth which a class of you 
girls can make one of the most attractive and best- 
patronized features of your church or neighborhood 
fair. Your own handicraft can be placed on sale 
here, and you can build the booth itself by following 
the plan I have worked out and shown in Fig. 
392, because it requires simple carpentry. When all 
is in readiness you can advertise "The Handicraft 
Booth, Built, Stocked, and Attended by the Girls of 
Class No.—." 

Figure 393 shows 

How to Construct the Booth. You will need a 
grocery-box about 30 inches long, 14 inches wide, and 
10 inches deep for each of the four corners. Each of 
these boxes must be provided with legs fastened inside 
at the corners {A, Figs. 395 and 396). These legs 
should measure 2 inches thick, 4 inches wide, and 
26 inches long. They must be of equal length so as to 
stand evenly upon the floor, and they must be securely 
nailed to the sides of the box. The supports for the 
canopy are made of clothes-poles, or strips of this 
thickness, about 7 feet long. The strips can be pro- 

222 



A HANDICRAFT BOOTH FOR A FAIR 



223 



cured from a carpenter. Nail one to a corner of each 
of the four boxes (B, Fig. 396). 

The proper distance at which to place the box- 
supports will be determined of course by the size that 




Fig. 392. — The Completed Booth 

you want to make the booth. Seven feet square, 
outside measurement, is a good size. 

The Counter Boards should be 12 inches wide, and 
long enough to make a continuous counter extending 
from corner to corner. This is not shown in Fig. 393, 



224 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



but is indicated in the plan diagram of Fig. 394. You 
will see that there are two long counter boards, and 
that two shorter boards fit between them. Nail the 



k 

D 

tr 
< 
o 

CD 
1. 


*-^OAR;d-> 


4 f 

Q 
a. 
< 



CQ 




«-BOARD-^ 



Fig. 394 




Fig. 393 
Fhg. 393. — Framework for Booth 
Fig. 394. — Plan of Framework, Showing Counter-top in Place 

boards securely to the boxes, after being careful to 
see that the boxes are placed so as to form a square. 



A HANDICRAFT BOOTH FOR A FAIR 



225 



The Canopy Framework is made of four poles 
( C, Fig. 393) . The lower ends of these are secured to 
the tops of uprights B, and the upper ends are sus- 
pended from 

a screw-eye ^^'jC^'^^ C^' F-^ 

screwed into the 
ceiling directly 
over the center 
of the booth. 
These poles 
must project 6 
inches or so over 
the tops of up- 
rights B, and 
must be long 
enough to run 
up to a peak at 
the center. By 
screwing a 
screw-eye into 
the top of up- 
rights B, and 
one into the un- 
der side of poles 
C (Fig. 396), 
the poles can be joined by tying together the screw- 
eyes with cord. Screw a screw-eye into the upper 
end of poles C to tie the cord to for suspending the 
poles from the ceiling screw-eye. 




Figs. 395 and 396. — Details of the Corner Supports 
and Canopy Framework 



226 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

For Covering the Framework, you will find crepe- 
paper the best material. Figure 392 suggests how 
strips of the paper may be wound around the corner 
uprights and canopy poles, how a lattice-work frieze 
of twisted crepe-paper may be extended around the 
sides of the top, and how ribbons of crepe-paper may 
be used to enclose the canopy framework. Pretty 
home-made 

Cardboard Lanterns, hung from the projecting ends 
of the canopy poles, will add a finishing touch to the 
roof. You will get a good idea of how to make these 
lanterns from Fig. 392. Bend a piece of cardboard 
into a cylinder, for the sides of the lantern, cut two 
rows of square openings through this as shown, and 
paste colored tissue-paper inside, over the openings. 
Fasten a circular piece of cardboard to the bottom 
of the cylinder for the base of the lantern, and fasten 
to the top a piece that has been cut and shaped into a 
conical roof. 

Cover the Counter boards with heavy wrapping- 
paper, and tack this paper in place, then cover the 
paper with cheese-cloth of a color that will harmonize 
with the tissue-paper trimmings. An apron of cheese- 
cloth must be tacked to the sides of the counter, and a 
pretty effect will be obtained by pleating this as 
indicated in Fig. 392. One side of the apron must 
be made to part, to provide an entrance into the booth. 

Figure 392 suggests how to decorate the counter 
apron with ribbons of twisted crepe-paper. 




Do you own a Japanese garden? If not, you should 
get one because It is one of the latest fads to have one. 
A garden can be purchased ready planted, but it is 
more fun to plant one yourself. 

You Need a Shallow Bake-pan in which to plant the 
garden. This may be round or square. For soil you 
must have sand, and you must also have some coarse 
pebbles or pieces of broken stone. These can be had 
for the asking some place where a building Is in course 
of construction. Half a panful of sand and several 
handfuls of pebbles will be enough. In addition, you 
must buy bird-seed or Japanese grass-seed to plant in 
the soil. The rest of the garden material can be picked 
up at home. 

A Number of Arrangements for the garden can be 
worked out, and you can replant your garden from 
time to time to make it different. Figure 397 shows 

A Good Plan to follow for your first garden. Pile 
up the sand around the sides of the pan, forming hills 
and hollows, and for 

A Pond leave an irregular-shaped space in the center, 
extending it over to one side of the pan. Make a shore 

227 



228 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



line of pebbles around the pond, and scatter other 
pebbles here and there over the sand. 

Plant Japanese Grass-seed, or bird seed, in the 
sand, then sprinkle it with water, and fill the pond. 




Fig. 397. — The Japanese Garden 

Paths and roadways should be provided for, but these 
can be weeded out after the seed has sprouted. 
One of the hills must be selected as a site for 
A Japanese House. This house may be made of 
cardboard. Figure 398 shows patterns for the walls. 
The dotted lines indicate where the pieces are to be 
folded. The strips outside of the dotted lines are to 



A JAPANESE GARDEN 



229 



be turned in and pasted to adjoining surfaces, in fasten- 
ing together the walls, foundation and roof. Fasten 
the walls upon a cardboard foundation (Fig. 397), 
and glue another piece to their tops for the roof. 






•""—A- 



Fig. 398. — Patterns for Walls of Japanese House 



A Japanese Bridge must be built over a narrow 
portion of the pond, as shown in Fig. 397. Make the 
arched roadway of this bridge out of a piece of a peach- 



230 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



basket handle (Fig. 399), with a cardboard raihng (Fig. 

400) tacked to each edge. The arch of the handle 
will determine the curve of the railings. 

The Lamps at each end of the bridge (Figs. 397 and 

401) have four sides and a bottom, cut in one piece 

like the pattern 
Fig. 400 ^^'l^^^^^^'^x — ~~^^::^•>w shown in Fig. 

402. Cut an 
opening in each 
side as indicated, 
and punch a hole 
through the bot- 
tom for the sup- 
porting post to 
fit in. Fold on 
the dotted lines, 
and paste the 
turned in edges 
together. Use 
short sticks for 
posts (meat-skewers will do nicely), and fasten the posts 
to the bridge railings. 
There should be 

A Bird-house similar to that shown in Fig. 397. 
Cut and fold the sides in the same manner that you 
did those of the lamps. Make the roof out of a square 
of paper (Fig. 403), fold the paper from corner to 
corner as indicated by dotted lines, and pinch up the 
corners as in Fig. 404. The round end of a hat-pin 




Fig. 399. — Roadbed of Japanese Bridge 
Fig. 400. — Railing for Bridge 



A JAPANESE GARDEN 



231 



forms the ball at the peak of the roof, and the pin 
extends down through the house and is wrapped with 
paper, to form the supporting post. 




Fig. 401 



Fig. 401. — A Bridge Lamp 

Fig. 402. — Pattern for Lamp 

Fig. 403 and 404. — Details of Roof for Bird-house 

Ducks for the pond may be made as shown in Fig. 
405. Use halves of corks for the bodies (Fig. 406), 



232 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



and make the necks and heads out of cardboard, and 
fasten them in slots cut in the round side of the halved 
corks. 

With these suggestions to show you how easily a 
garden can be built, you can 

Devise Other Garden Accessories, by using a little 
ingenuity, and you will be surprised to find how much 
fun it is to start out with a simple garden such as I 
have shown, and develop it into an elaborate one. 



Fig. 406 




Fig. 405 
Figs. 405 and 406. — Make Ducks for the Pond Like This 




After completing a Japanese garden like the one 
described in the preceding chapter, you will be interested 
in other forms of model-making, and especially in 
table center-pieces. 

The Pilgrim's Homestead illustrated in Fig. 407 
will make a splendid center-piece for Thanksgiving-Day 
either for mother's table or as a model for your school- 
room. If made for the table, the model should be 
small so as not to take up space that rightfully belongs 
to Mr. Gobbler and the good things that go with him. 

The Cabin should be built first. If you can get 
straight pieces of tree branches, they will make the 
best-appearing logs; if not, paper logs will do. To 
make paper logs, it is only necessary to roll pieces of 
paper in tubes, using a pencil as a foundation to roll 
the paper on (Fig. 410), paste the edges to keep 
them from unrolling, remove the pencil, and pinch to- 
gether the ends of the tubes. 

The Cabin Walls should be built against the sides 
of a cardboard box, to give them stiffness. Use a 
small box, and cut dow^n its sides enough to allow for 
cutting the gable ends, as shown in Fig. 408. Use the 

233 



234 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



same measurement on opposite sides so as to get them 
alike. Figure 409 shows the foundation for the stick 
chimney. This is one piece of cardboard folded. 
Cut away the upper portion of the sides of the piece 
as shown, so the chimney will be large at the base and 
small above. Glue to the end of the cabin. 




Fig. 407. — A Pilgrim's Homestead Center-Piece for the Thanksgiving-Day 

Table 



The Door and Window Openings may be cut in the 
cardboard box, but it will save work simply to mark 
them out with pencil, and perhaps draw vertical lines 
to indicate the boards of the window shutters and 
door (Fig. 407). 

To Lay up the Wall Logs, first place a side log along 



HOLIDAY TABLE DECORATION 



23S 




Fig. 408.— How to Build the Fig. 409.— 
Cabin Walls The Chimney 

Framework 



each side and glue it to the cardboard box, then place 
a pair of end logs across their ends and glue them to the 
ends of the box, then a pair of side logs across the ends 
of the end logs, 
and so on until 
the walls are en- 
tirely built up. 
Cut the logs of 
the right lengths 
so their ends will 
project as shown, 
and cut them to fit 
between the open- 
ings, and, on the chimney end, to fit against the chimney. 
If you use paper logs, pinch them where they cross, 
so each tier will rest upon the tier below. If you use 
tree-branch logs, notch them near their ends so that 
they will fit down over one another. 

For the Stick 
Chimney, either 
small twigs, or 
paper tubes rolled 
over burnt 

matches, may be 
used. Cross the 

Fig. 410. — How to Roll up the Paper Logs ^^ds and gluC 

them to the cardboard foundation in the same way 
that you fastened the cabin logs. Stick a piece of 
cotton in the chimney top to represent smoke. 




236 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Make the Roof of cardboard, with wide projections 
at the eaves and gables, and glue it to the edges of the 
cardboard walls. Paint the roof brown, and the logs, 
also, if you have used paper logs. 

The cover to a cardboard box should be used for 

A Foundation for the Homestead, and this should be 
filled with sand or earth to the depth of the rim, for 
ground. Locate the cabin in about the position shown 
in Fig. 407, place a mirror to one side of it for 

A Pond, concealing 
the edges with earth 
or sand, and 

Plant Several 
Clumps of Trees, us- 
ing branches of shrub- 
bery for them. 

Figure 411 shows how 

The Rail Fence that surrounds the model homestead 
is built. Use short, slender sticks or paper tubes for 
the rails. 

To Add a Wintry Effect to the Scene, use flour, corn- 
starch, or ^'diamond dust" for snow. Scatter this over 
the ground, pond, and cabin roof in drifts and patches. 
The model will then be complete with the exception of 

The Pilgrim Father. Figure 412 shows the Pilgrim 
with gun in hand. You need but make a tracing of 
the printed figure, transfer it upon cardboard, cut it 
out, paint it upon both sides, and stick the piece to 
which the feet are joined, into the ground. 




Fig. 411. — The Rail Fence 



HOLIDAY TABLE DECORATION 



237 




Fig. 412. — Full-Size 
Pattern of Pilgrim Fa- 
ther 



The Santa Claus Castle shown in 
Fig. 413, will make a very attractive 
center- piece for the Christmas 
dinner-table. 

The Mountain upon which the 
castle stands is the first portion of 
this model to build, and for it you 
will need a large enough piece of card- 
board to make a base about 16 inches 
in diameter and a top 9 or 10 inches 
in diameter (Fig. 414). The card- 
board from a suit-box will do. After 
bending this into the proper shape, 
coat the overlapping edges with glue, 
and press together until the glue has 
set; then trim off the base to rest squarely, and the 
top edge' so that it will be parallel with the base. 

The Lower Portion of the Castle is a square card- 
board box (Fig. 415). Invert this box, and around its 
bottom glue a strip of cardboard that has notches cut 
in one edge, as shown, for an embattled parapet wall. 

The Lower Tower stands upon the box base. It is 
made of a piece of cardboard notched along the upper 
edge for battlements, and bent into a cylinder with 
the edges lapped and glued together (Fig. 416). Make 
a roof out of a circular piece of cardboard, with project- 
ing tabs for turning down and gluing to the sides of 
the tower (Fig. 417). 

Make the Upper Tower in the same way that you 



238 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



made the lower one, but smaller, and fasten it upon 
the lower tower (Figs. 413 and 418). 




Fig. 413. — A Santa Claus _Castle Center-Piece for the 
Christmas-Day Table 




Fig. 414. — Cardboard Foundation for the Mountain 



HOLIDAY TABLE DECORATION 



239 




Fig. 415. — The Lower Portion of the Castle 



Paint Long Narrow Windows upon the castle walls, 
and fasten 

A Stick Flag-pole upon the upper tower, to complete 
the castle. 

The Mountain-side must be covered with snow, and 
the best way 

To Obtain a Snow Effect is by gluing cotton to the 
cardboard. Pu t 
the cotton on in 
var^'ing thick- 
nesses, to give the 
slopes a rocky 
appearance. 

Form a Trail up one side, from the base to the 
castle, bv dampening and pressing down the cotton 
(Fig. 413). 

To Make the 
Snow Sparkle, 
sprinkle the cot- 
ton with "dia- 
mond dust." or 
flakes of mica 
sold for decorat- 
ing Christmas- 
trees. Sprinkle 
this over the 
roofs of the castle, and over the trees. 

There Must be Trees, and excellent trees may be 
made by cutting long slender wooden cones similar 




Fig. 418 




Fig. 416 
Fig. 416. — The Lower Tower 
Fig. 417. — Roof for the Lower Tower 
Fig. 418. — The Upper Tower 



240 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



to that shown in Fig. 419, driving a nail into the base 
of each, and then whitthng the surface with a sharp 
knife so as to make the shavings stand out in the form 
of boughs. 

The way to prepare the 
boughs is to start at the 
apex of the wooden cone, and 
whittle in the same way that 
you sharpen a pencil, but very 
carefully so that you do not 
split off any of the shavings. 
Whittle all sides of the cones, 
and work back from the apex 
to the base. Stain the trees 
a dark green. Then stand 
them erect upon the moun- 
tain sides, and stick the nails 
that are in their ends down 
through the cardboard. Pull 
the cotton up around their 
bases. 

Santa Claus's Aeroplane 
should be shown about to 
alight at the castle (Fig. 413). 
from a chandelier or a tack driven into the ceiling. 
The model consists of a strip of cardboard 7 inches long 
and 1 inch wide {A, Fig. 421), with a V-shaped piece 
glued to both sides of its center {B, Figs. 421 and 422), 
a tail plane (C, Figs. 421 and 423) glued to plane A, 




Fig. 419 Fig. 420 

Figs, 419 and 420.— How to 
Whittle the Trees 

Suspend it by a thread 



HOLIDAY TABLE DECORATION 



241 



and a propeller {D, Figs. 421 and 424) pivoted by a 
pin run through its center into the edge of plane A 

(Fig. 422). 




Fig. 424 

Fig. 421. — Santa Claus and His Aeroplane 
Figs. 422 to 424. — Details of Aeroplane 



Figure 425 shows 

A Pattern for Santa Claus. This has been drawn of 
the right size for the aeroplane, so all you will have to 
do is trace it off upon tracing-paper and transfer it 
upon a piece of cardboard. Paint the clothes and toy 
pack with water-colors, then cut out along the outlines, 
fold along the dotted-line, and paste together the 
two halves with the exception of the feet which 



242 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 425.- 



FuU-size Pattern of Santa Claus 
and His Pack 



must be separate to 
straddle the frame- 
work of the aero- 
plane. 

The sweet dainties 
shown upon this and 
following pages are 
made of things good 
to eat, and will be 
unique decorations 
for a holiday table. 
The Basket shown in Fig. 426 is prepared from an 

orange. First, make two parallel cuts through the 

rind yi inch apart, and extending from the center of 

one side to the center of 

the opposite side. Then 

cut away the rind each 

side of this handle down 

to a line even with the 

start of the handle. Cut 

the orange pulp loose, and 

carefully scoop it out of 

the rind. Then cut little 

notches in the edge all 

around, and the basket 

will be ready to be filled 

with candies. 

The Water Lily shown in Fig. 427 is also made from 

an orange. With a sharp knife slit down the rind into 




Fig. 426.- 



■ A Basket Made from an 
Orange 



HOLIDAY TABLE DECORATION 



243 



strips and bend out these strips for petals. Then 
separate the orange into sections to form inside petals. 
This completes the lily. 

The Cinnamon Bear (Fig. 428) has a nice fat fig for 
a body. Stick a toothpick in the end where his neck 
will come, and push a flat raisin on to this for a collar, 
pushing it up close to 
the body. Then select 
a well-shaped prune for 
the head, and stick it 
on to the end of the 
toothpick neck, and 
push down against the 
raisin collar. Make 
the legs of four tooth- 
picks with a raisin 
pushed on to each next 
to the body, and a 
small currant next to the raisin. Break the top off 
a clove, and stick the remainder into the end of the 
fig for a tail. 

The Hound (Fig. 429) has a prune body, a raisin 
head, and small currant ears fastened to the raisin 
with pieces of toothpicks. The legs are short pieces of 
toothpicks with currants stuck on them. The tail 
is the stem of a clove. 

The Turtle (Fig. 430) has a body and shell made of 
a large prune, and a raisin head joined to the body by 
means of a piece of toothpick. Stick cloves into the 




Fig. 427. 



A Water Lily Made from an 
Orange 



244 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



sides of the body for legs, and a clove stem into the 
end for a tail. 

Candy Jim (Fig. 431) has a fig body, a marshmallow 




Fig. 429. — A Hound 



Fig. 431. — Candy Jim 



head with clove eyes, and clove stem nose and mouth, 
each pressed into the soft marshmallow. The arms 
are toothpicks with currants pushed on them, and 



HOLIDAY TABLE DECORATION 



245 




Fig. 432. — An Eight-Cornered Basket 
Fig. 433 



the legs are two toothpicks with raisins stuck on 

^^The little baskets shown in Figs. 432, 439 and 444 are 
splendid 

Baskets for 
Candy Dainties 
for the dinner- 
table. Use 
heavy writing- 
paper for work- 
ing material. If 
you can get 
tinted paper, 
the baskets wdll 

look daintier 

than if made of 

white paper. 

The Eight- 
corner Basket 

shown in Fig. 

432 requires a 

piece of paper 5 

inches square 

(Fig. 433). Fold 

the piece of 

paper in half, 

with edges A 

together (F i g. pi^. 433 




Fig. 436 



tOgeuiei vi 'h- Fig. 438 . 

434), fold it in Figs. 433 to 438.-Details of Basket Shown m Fig. 432 



246 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 439. — A Heart-Shaped Basket 



Fig. 440 



Fig. 441 



A 


A 




A 




Fig. 443 Fig. 442 

Figs. 440 to 442. — Details of Basket Shown in 
Fig. 439 



half again with 
edges B together 
(Fig. 435), and 
fold corner C over 
to corner C (Fig. 
436). Then with 
a pair of shears cut 
off corners C, as 
in Fig. 437. Un- 
fold the paper, and 
it will have the 
form shown in Fig. 
438. This is the 
basket bottom. 

Turn up the 
edge of the basket 
bottom all around, 
folding along the 
dotted line shown 
in Fig. 438, and 
to this turned up 
edge paste a strip 
of paper IX inches 
wide and 23 inches 
long, for the sides 
of the basket. 

Bend this side 
strip so as to make 
it conform to the 



HOLIDAY TABLE DECORATION 



247 



shape of the basket bottom. The handle is a paper 
strip 8 inches long and ^ inch wide, and its ends are 
pasted to the basket sides. 

The Heart-shaped Basket (Fig. 439) has a bottom 
cut out of a piece of paper 5 inches by 5}^ inches in 
size (Fig. 440). Fold the paper in half with edges A 
together (Fig. 441), then mark out one-half of a heart 
on one side of the folded piece, as indicated by the 
dotted line in Fig. 
441, and cut out 
along the line (Fig. 
442). Unfold the 
piece (Fig. 443), 
and slash the edge 
all around with a 
pair of scissors, 
making the slashes 
}i inch long. Turn 
up the little pieces 
between the slashes, and paste them to a strip of paper 
1}4 inches wide and 17>^ inches long, bent around the 
heart-shaped bottom to form the sides of the basket 
(Fig. 439) . The handle is made like that of the basket 
shown in Fig. 432. 

The Basket with Pinched Corners, shown in Fig. 444, 
is made from a square of paper that measures S}4 
inches. Fold this square sheet in half, diagonally, 
with corners A together (Figs. 445 and 446), then fold 
it into quarters by bringing corners B together (Figs. 




Fig 444. — A Basket with Pinched Corners 



248 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Fig. 445 



Fig. 446 



A 

• 




/B 


/ 

• 
• 

' A 


/B 


\ 



446 and 447), and fold over 1 inch of the edge of C as 

in Fig. 448. Open the piece of paper, and you will 

find a great many 
creases in it. 
The dotted lines 
in Fig. 449 show 
only the creases 
that are needed. 
Turn up the 
edges along the 
creases that run 
parallel to them. 
Then fold to- 
gether and paste 
the overlapping 
corners, which 
will make them 
stand out as 
shown in Fig. 

444. The handle is made of a strip 9 inches long 

and Yi, inch wide. 



\ ! 

1 

1 
■ 


--- 


_^ 


1 / 

w' 


1 
1 
1 
1 
1 / 

• * 


— - 


-- 


\ 1 




Fig. 449 Fig. 448 

Fig. 445 to 449 — Details of Basket Shown in 
Fig. 444. 




CHAPTER XXVII 



HOME MADE ORNAMENTS 
FOR THE CHRISTMAS TREE 




Have you ever helped to trim your Christmas-tree? 
If you have, you know that there nearly always are 
bare places upon the branches when you have finished, 
where you could have used more ornaments if you had 
had them. 

Suppose that you prepare some home-made orna- 
ments like those shown in illustrations in this chapter, 
to go with the ornaments which you have, for this year's 
tree. They will help to cover the tree, and not only that, 
they will also make your tree more interesting, because 
they will be different from anything that you can buy. 

First of all, you must make 

A Base for the Tree. This is one of the simplest 
things in the world to construct when you know how. 
You can probably pick up at home all of 

The Material Required for the base, shown in Fig. 450, 
because this consists of a grocery-box, a few box boards, 
and some cloth for covering the wood. 

An oblong box 10 inches deep, 22 inches wide, and 
26 inches long was used for the base illustrated. Figure 



45 1 shows the first step in the construction 
ing of 

249 



the form- 



250 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



A Pocket to Receive the End of the Tree, in the 

bottom of the box. This is made with two pairs of 
boards nailed together crosswise as in Fig. 452. Any 
boards of narrow widths will do. Cut pair A exactly 
as long as the inside width of the box, and pair B 

exactly as long as the in- 
side length of the box. 
For the end of a tree of 
medium size, the pocket 
should measure about 2}4 
inches square, and the 
strips should be placed 
this distance apart. If 
the pocket proves a bit 
too large, the tree end 
can be wrapped with a 
strip of cloth or paper to 
make it fit tight. If this 
is done, the pocket frame 
need not be fastened in 
the box. 

The lower pocket will 
hold the tree-end in posi- 
tion. To brace the upper part so as to prevent its 
toppling over, 

Another Pocket must be made in the upper 
part of the box. This is formed by fastening 
one pair of narrow boards between the box sides 
even with the top edge (C, Fig. 453), then crossing 




Fig. 450. 



A Base for the Christmas 
Tree 



ORNAMENTS FOR THE CHRISTMAS TREE 251 



them with a pair nailed to the top of the box {D, Fig. 
454). 

The base can be completed by covering the box 
neatly with cloth, but it will be more attractive in 
appearance if you 

Slant the Sides as they are slanted in Fig. 450. 
Nail a pair of boards 
to the bottom of the 
box (£, £, Fig. 455) 
so that they project 
beyond the sides and 
ends, as shown, and 
then nail strips Fto the 
ends of these boards. 
The projections of the 
frame thus formed 
should be equal. 

Cover the Base with 
Cloth, bringing the 
material from the box 
top down over the edge 
of the bottom frame, 
and tacking it to the 
under side of the 

frame. Stretch the cloth evenly, bring it together 
at the corners, and sew the edges neatly. Now, let us 
see about the making of tree ornaments. As pretty 

A Spear Ornament as you could wish for is shown 
in Fig. 456. This is made of a sheet of letter- 



l^EsasililWiiEIS fclM'I'l 

= -. . ■ B 




' ■■ B 


jL \ 

|)&= — Nl 



Fig. 451 




Fig. 452. 
The BoxBase, Showing How the Lower 
Pocket for the Tree is Formed 



252 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



paper rolled into a slender cornucopia (Fig. 457), with 
a thread spool glued in the open end (Fig. 458), and a 

small silk spool slipped 
over the small end 
(Figs. 458 and 459); 
then all is covered 
with tin-foil, and a 
tassel made of pieces 
of red, white and blue 
paper, slashed into 
fringe (Fig. 460), is 
fastened in the apex. 
Tin-foil can be ob- 
tained from any flor- 
ist. 

A Star Ornament, 
made after the fash- 
ion of that shown in 
Fig. 461, is a pretty 
tree-tip ornament, 
and it is easily made. 
The double star is pre- 
pared In two pieces 
cut from a cardboard 
box (Figs. 462 and 
463). Mark them out 
alike with ruler and 
pencil, making the distance between opposite points 5 
inches. Cut them with a knife or scissors. 




Figs. 453 to 455. — How the 
Upper Pocket is Formed, and 
How the Bottom of the Base is 
Extended 



ORNAMENTS FOR THE CHRISTMAS TREE 253 



The stars must be cut so one will fit over the other. 
Cut a slot in one from point A down to B (Fig. 462), 
which is one-half of the distance from A to C; and 
cut a slot in the 
other from point 
C up to B (Fig. 
463). Then, by 
crossing the 
pair, and slip- 
ping the slot in 
each over the 
uncut portion of 
the other, the 
pieces will fit 
together in the 
form shown in 
Fig. 461. 

Cut two slen- 
der sticks for 
the star stem, 
fasten the upper 
ends to opposite 
faces of the 
star, and bind 
together the 
lower ends with 
thread. Then cover the surfaces of the star with tin- 
foil or silver paper, to make them shiny. 

To fasten the star ornament to the tree, bind the 




Fig. 456. 



Fig. 456 Fig. 458 Fig. 459 

A Spear Ornament for the Tip of 
the Tree 
Figs. 457 to 460. — Details of the Spear Ornament 



254 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 





A Star Tip Ornament 




Fig. 462 Fig. 463 

Figs. 462 and 463. — The Halves of the Star 

Ornament 



Fig. 464. — A Chain Made Up of Bits of Colored 
Paper 



Stem securely to 
the tree-tip. The 
lower points of 
the star serve ex- 
cellently as points 
of attachment for 
the ends of 

Ornamental 
Chains. There 
are several ways 
of making pretty 
chains. One way 
is to 

String Popcorn 
on Thread, using 
some white kernels 
and some kernels 
stained red and 
blue, with dress- 
dyes, or any color- 
ing material that 
you have at hand. 

String Bits o f 
Colored Paper on 
Thread to make 
chains like those 
shown in Figs. 461 
and 464. 



ORNAMENTS FOR THE CHRISTMAS TREE 255 

Strings of Cranberries and Glass Beads can be made 
to look like the glass-ball strings sold for Christmas 
trees. Figure 465 suggests the way to alternate the 
beads and cranberries. To make the cranberries 
sparkle like glass, coat some with glue, then sprinkle 
with "diamond dust"; gild the others with gold 
bronze — the kind sold for decorating radiators, — 
or wrap with tin-foil. 

Figure 466 shows 

A Rubber-Ball Ornament, made by covering a 




Fig. 466. — Ornament 
Made of Rubber-Ball 



Fig. 467. — Ornament 
Made of Egg-Shell 



rubber-ball with gold bronze or "diamond-dust," 
then suspending it on a thread; and Fig. 467 shows 

An Egg-shell Ornament, made of a "blown" egg- 
shell covered and suspended in the same way. Egg- 
shells dyed in various colors, as Easter eggs are dyed, 
are also pretty. 

Unless you can have electric lights, it is better not 



2s6 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



to light the tree at all than to run the risk of its catching 

fire. But unlit candles make pretty ornaments, so I 

have shown in Fig. 468 

A Home-made Candle-Holder. This is made by 

wrapping a clothes-pin with tin-foil so that the upper 

edge of the tinfoil 
projects to form a 
cup for the candle 
(Fig. 469). Wrap 
the end of the 
candle with tin- 
foil to make it 
fit the cup 
(Fig. 470.) The 
clothes-pin sets 
down over the 
tip of a branch, 
as shown in Fig. 
468, and a weight 
made of a marble 
or piece of clay, 
wrapped in tin- 
foil (Fig. 471), 
is suspended by 
thread from one 
to balance the 




Fig. 469 



Fig. 468. — A Candle-Holder 

Fig. 469 to 471. — Details of Candle-Holder 



leg of the clothes-pin (Fig. 468), 
holder. 

Santa Claus Dolls like that shown in Fig. 472, to 
bestride the tree branches, are pretty ornaments and 



ORNAMENTS FOR THE CHRISTMAS TREE 257 



easily made. The bodies are clothes-pins, with trouser- 
legs of red paper (A, Fig. 473) slipped over the ends 
(Fig. 474), a red paper coat {B, Fig. 473), with arms 
(C) glued close to the head of the pin (Fig. 475), cotton 
whiskers (D, Fig. 

476), a peaked ^ ig. 476 Fig. 473 

red paper hat(E, 
Fig. 476), and 
eyes marked with 
ink upon the 
clothes-pin head. 
The Airship 
Ornament shown 
in Fig. 477 has 
a balloon with 
ends made of the 
halves of an egg- 
shell {A, Figs. 
478 and 479). 
These are glued 
to a cylindrical 
piece {B) rolled 
out of cardboard ; 
and a strip of 
cardboard (C) is 
glued along each 

side. The car is a small box, and the propeller (D, 
Fig. 480) is pivoted to its end with a pin. Threads 
suspend the car from the balloon, and others suspend 




Fig. 472 Fig. 475 Fig. 474 

Fig. 472. — a Santa Claus Doll Ornament 
Figs. 473 to 476. — How to Dress the 
Clothes-pin Doll 



2S8 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



the balloon from the Christmas tree. Paint the balloon 
red, and the car yellow. 

Tarlatan Stockings to hold the fruits and nuts that 
belong among the Christmas tree's trimmings, are 




Fig. 477. — An Airship Ornament 



Fig. 479 




ininh,,iMIIUhuilUI>iniUUIUIll)jj// 



Fig. 480 Fig. 478 

Figs. 478 to 480. — Details of Airship 

easily cut and sewed up. Figure 481 shows a stocking 
filled. 

Cornucopias made of colored paper and suspended by 
ribbons (Fig. 482) are pretty holders for candy. Figure 
483 shows how to cut a piece of paper for the cornu- 
copia. Coat one edge of the piece of paper with 



ORNAMENTS FOR THE CHRISTMAS TREE 259 



mucilage, then, starting with that edge, roll up the piece 
of paper into the form shown in Fig. 482, and paste the 
outer edge to it. Paste small colored pictures upon the 
outside of each cornucopia. 

Goblins like the little fellow in Fig. 
484 are only one of the many funny 
little people that can be made with 
orange heads, and cardboard-and- 
paper clothes. Cut away the outer 
portion of the orange rind to form 
eyes, nose and mouth, and make the 
ears out of cardboard and stick 
them into slits cut in the orange rind. 




Fig. 481. — A Tarl- 
atan Stocking to 
Hold Fruits and 
Nuts 





Fig. 482. — A 
Cornucopia to 
Hold Candies 



Fig. 483. — Cut Paper 
to this Shape for 
Cornucopia 



Figure 485 shows a pattern for the ears, while Fig. 
486 shows how to cut the cardboard body. Stick the 
neck of the body into a slot cut through the orange 



26o 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Fig. 485 




Fig. 484 Fig. 486 

Fig. 484. — A Goblin Ornament 
Fig. 485 and 486. — Details of Goblin 



rind. To hang up the goblin, stick a hairpin Into his 
head, and tie a piece of thread to the loop end (Fig. 484). 
Paint the clothes with water-colors or color them with 
crayons. If you make several of the figures, provide 
some with hats and some with bonnets. 




;"^^:34^^f^.^^:-^:_ 



PARTE 



Spring and Summer 
Handicraft 




JiiKu lIuiriK-^ 1)1 ii.i i>> I'upiLS OF THE i 1 A vv i H. iK.N h !.->> iiouL, Waterloo, Iowa 
Winners in the "American Bird House League," Prize Contest 





CHAPTER XXVIII 
HOME-MADE BIRD-HOUSES 



'— •^Jlf/. ' xfc^ . i.y.^'t-^^" -^ .^.:^""^ ' - • i-'-i(..'- ' ^'s s~:;Si. 



Shelters and drinking-basins, and protection from 
cats and other bird enemies, are the recognized solution 
to the problem of inducing feathered neighbors to 
build nests close to our homes where we may have 
opportunity to study from day to day their interesting 
ways of living. Girls, boys, men and women have 
pledged themselves to save the birds, and, as a con- 
sequence, the bird-house building movement has 
attained tremendous proportions. In a short campaign 
last spring, children of the public schools in Pittsburgh, 
Pennsylvania, built more than 6,000 bird-houses; it is 
estimated that more than 15,000 were produced in 
Allegheny County, Pennsylvania; in St. Paul, Minne- 
sota, nearly 4,000 houses were entered in the school 
system's contest; in Seattle, Washington, enough 
houses were disposed of by one school to make possible 
the purchase of a first-class printing outfit; and many 
other equally good records have come to me from 
schools, communities, and individuals to whom my 
plans have been supplied. 

You wish to help in this praiseworthy undertaking, 
I know, and in order that you may, I have begun the 

263 



264 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

second part of your handy book with this chapter on 
practical bird-houses. Some of these plans have been 
borrowed from my Handicraft for Handy Boys, because 
these have been built and tenanted for many seasons. 
If you will look at the photograph of the exhibit of 
bird-houses entered in the Pittsburgh public-school 
contest, shown on the opposite page, you will notice 
a number of models of the tin-can Bird Castle shown in 
Fig. 494, the Bird Tower shown in Fig. 497, and 
variations of these designs. 

Besides building houses yourself, you can render 
service to the birds by encouraging others to do likewise. 
For the purpose of enlisting every bird-lover in the 
work 

The American Bird-House League* was founded by 
the author, and its aims are rapidly being realized with 
a membership that includes girls, boys, 
men and women in every part of the 
United States and Canada. 

Houses that Attract Tenants. Birds 
show a practical rather than an artistic 
sense in choosing homes, and, .unlike us. 

Fig. 259.— , ° . , . , 

League Button oo not carc whether their nouses are 
plain or highly ornamented. A com- 
mon box properly arranged is just as much of an 
attraction as one on which a great deal of time has 

*If you or your teacher would be interested in full particulars concerning the 
American Bird-House League, what it has accomplished, and its bird-house con- 
tests for schools and individual members, a stamped addressed envelope sent to 
A, Neely Hall, Elmhurst, Illinois, will bring them. 




HOME-MADE BIRD-HOUSES 265 

been spent In contriving fancy roofs, porches, and 
doorways, provided it is placed where there will be 
ample protection from cats and other enemies of birds, 
and where there will be a plentiful supply of seeds and 
insects for food near by, and water for drink and bath. 
But carefully designed houses, of course, appear neater 
and more pleasing to us, so that it is best to take pains 
in planning and constructing our garden bird-homes. 

Among the many requests which I receive for bird- 
house plans and building information, are those for 

The Right Dimensions to Use for Houses. These it 
is necessary to know, of course, before starting a house, 
because the proportions will vary for different species 
of birds. Little fellows like the house-wren prefer 
small, single-compartment houses, and the doorway 
should be about the size of a quarter, and not larger 
than Ys inch in diameter. Therefore, when planning a 
wren home, don't consider a 20-room palace, v/ith the 
expectation that wrens will feel at home in it; and 
don't make a larger doorway than the size mentioned 
above, because doing so will only invite the attack of 
sparrows. A sparrow's body cannot squeeze through 
a K-inch doorway. 

The United States Department of Agriculture has 
issued 

A Chart of Correct Dimensions for houses to accom- 
modate every bird known to accept house nesting- 
places, compiled from data supplied by our best- 
informed naturalists, and I am presenting this chart 



266 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



below so that you will know exactly what dimensions 
to use for the species of birds you wish to house. 

Dimensions of Nesting-boxes for Various Species of 

Birds 

(From Farmers' Bulletin 609) 



Species. 



Floor 
of 

cavity. 



Depth 
of 

cavity. 



Entrance 
above 
floor. 



Diam. 

of 

entrance. 



Height 

above 

ground. 



Bluebird 

Robin 

Chickadee 

Tufted titmouse 

White-breasted nuthatch 

House wren 

Bewick wren 

Carolina wren 

Dipper 

Violet-green swallow .... 

Tree swallow 

Barn swallow 

Martin 

Song sparrow 

House finch 

Phoebe 

Crested flycatcher 

Flicker 

Red-headed woodpecker . 
Golden-fronted woodpecker 
Hairy woodpecker .... 
Downy woodpecker . . . 

Screech owl 

Sparrow hawk 

Saw-whet owl 

Barn owl 

Wood duck 



Inches. 

5 by 5 

6 by 8 
4 by 
4 by 
4 by 
4 by 
4 by 

4 by 
6 by 

5 by 

5 by 

6 by 
6 by 
6 by 
6 by 
6 by 

6 by 

7 by 
6 by 
6 by 
6 by 
4 by 

8 by 8 
8 by 8 
6 by 6 

10 by 18 
10 by 18 



Inches. 



8 to 10 

8 to 10 

8 to 10 

6 to 8 

6 to 8 

6 to 8 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

8 to 10 

16 to 18 

12 to 15 

12 to 15 

12 to 15 

8 to 10 

12 to 15 

12 to 15 

10 to 12 

15 to 18 

10 to 15 



Inches. 



« 



Ito 
Ito 
1 to 

Ito 
1 to 

(}) 
i}) 
(0 



16 

12 

12 

12 

8 

12 

12 

10 

4 

3 



Inches. 

IH 

Vs 
1 

IK 

3 

(2) 

2 

(1) 
2 

214 

2 

2 

IH 

3 

3 

23^ 

6 

6 



Feet. 

5 to 10 

6 to 15 
6 to 15 
6 to 15 

12 to 20 

6 to 10 

6 to 10 

6 to 10 

Ito 3 

10 to 15 

10 to 15 

8 to 12 

15 to 20 

Ito 3 

8 to 12 

8 to 12 

8 to 20 

6 to 20 

12 to 20 

12 to 20 

12 to 20 

6 to 20 

10 to 30 

10 to 30 

12 to 20 

12 to 18 

4 to 20 



1 One or more sides open. 



2 All sides open. 



HOME-MADE BIRD-HOUSES 



267 




Fig. 489. — Detail of 
Base and Hanger 



Materials for Bird-house Building can be found in 
every household. Tomato cans, apple and sugar 
barrels, fish-kegs, nail-kegs and white-lead kegs, cheese- 
boxes, butter-firkins, wooden pails, flower-pots, and 
small boxes such as soap and starch come in, will 
furnish all the ma- 
terials necessary 
for the houses il- 
lustrated in this 
chapter. 

A Bird Temple 
like that shown 
in Fig. 488 is an 
excellent little 

W r e n-h O U S e to Fig.488.— a Bird Temple. 

hang from a tree branch. It requires an earthen flower- 
pot, a tomato-can, a piece of board about 7 inches 
square, a short stick, a screw-eye, and some wire. 

First, mark the doorway upon the side of the can and 
cut the opening with a can-opener, then fasten the can 
to the square base board (A, Fig. 489), by driving large 
carpet-tacks through the can-bottom into the board. 

The inverted flower-pot which forms the roof must 
have its drain-hole plugged up to make the temple roof 
water-tight and for the purpose a wooden plug {B, 
Fig. 489) should be whittled to fit the hole. Screw a 
screw-eye into the top of this plug to attach the sus- 
pending wire to, and drill a small hole through the 
lower end so that a short nail can be pushed through 



268 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

after the plug has been inserted in the flower- pot, to 
keep it from pulHng out (Fig. 489). 

Fasten the flower-pot over the can by means of wire, 
first passing a loop of wire entirely around the pot, 
close to the projecting rim, then running short wires 
from this wire down to nails driven into the four 
corners of base A, as shown in Fig. 489. 

Make several of these wren-houses, paint them, and 
you will be surprised to see what pretty little houses 
they are. 

A Box Bird-house like that in Fig. 490 can be made 
out of an empty starch box, or you can cut out the 
pieces and put together the box yourself. In case you 
make the box, the top edge of the end pieces can be 
cut slanted to allow for the slanted roof; but if you 
use a ready-made box, a triangular piece will have to 
be added to the edges (A, Fig. 491). If you make the 
box, cut the center partition, which divides the box 
into two compartments, the same size as the end 
pieces; but for a box ready made, cut this piece first 
and then use it for a pattern for laying out the triangular 
pieces to be added to the ends. The doorway in each 
can be cut with a jack-knife; this will be easy to do if 
the ends are in two pieces, because one-half of the hole 
can be cut out of the edge of each piece (Fig. 491). 

After the ends of the box have been pieced out, nail 
a strip to the back to make it of the same height, then 
cut the roof board large enough so it will project about 
1 inch over the front and ends of the box, and nail it 



HOME-MADE BIRD-HOUSES 



269 




Fig. 490 Fig. 491 

Details of a Box Lean-to Bird-house. 



in place. Fit the perch-sticks into holes bored in the 
ends of the box, as shown in Fig. 490. 

This house may be mounted upon a 4-by-4 post, 
but it will look better if bracketed to a wall, on account 

of the style of its 
roof. A wooden 
bracket may be 
cut out and nailed 
to the wall, or a 
strip 6 or 8 inches 
longer than the box may be nailed to the back, and the 
ends of thi nailed to the wall (Fig. 490). 

Another Box Bird-House is shown in Fig. 492. The 
illustration shows clearly 
how the back, sides, and 
roof are cut and fitted to- 
gether, and how the water- 
pan is bracketed out from 
the 'lower end of the back 
board, and I am going to 
let you work out the sizes 
for the various pieces ac- 
cording to what you think 
they ought to be. 

The lower portion of the 
back board may be screwed 
or nailed to a wall or post, 

or if you omit the pan and ^^^ 492. -Another Bird-house 
place the box in a tree, it can with a Pan for Drinking- Water. 




270 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



be tied securely by running a piece of clothes-line several 
times around it and the tree trunk. 

A cheese-box cover and one of the small kegs in 
which mackerel and herring come to the market furnish 
the materials for making 

A Bird Tower such as that shown in Fig. 493. The 
keg must be thoroughly washed out with hot water 
and either washing-soda or lye, and 
should be painted inside, to remove 
the fish odor. Bore four openings in 
the side of the keg, and fasten a perch- 
stick in a small hole below each opening. 

The illustration shows the keg 
mounted upon the end of a rug-pole, 
but if you cannot get one of these, the 
top of a post, or a piece of 2-by-4 set 
several feet into the ground, will serve 
the purpose. Nail the keg to the support, 
then set the cheese-box cover on top 
and nail it in place. 

The lower perches should run through 
the support as shown in the illustration, 
and may be of pieces of broken flag- 
staffs or cabinetmaker's dowel-sticks. 

Figure 497 shows 

A Tin-can Bird Tower. This Is made 
of empty tomato cans. Cut a doorway in the side of three 
cans about V/2 Inches from the top; do not remove the 
piece of tin, but bend it out as shown in Fig. 498 to 




F1G.497.— A Tin- 
Can Bird Tower 



HOME-MADE BIRD-HOUSES 



271 



form a perch. Then remove the top of one can {A, 
Fig. 499) , and the top and bottom of the other two cans 
{B and C, Fig. 499). As the ends are generally soldered 
on, it is only necessary to hold a can over a flame until 

the solder melts, and then knock 
off the ends (Fig. 498) . The cans 
are joined together by means of 
two circular blocks of wood {E 
and F, Fig. 499), which also di- 
vide the tower into three com- 
partments. 

A 6-inch tin funnel forms the 
roof (D, Fig. 499), and a cork 
with a piece of a hatpin stuck 
into it (G) fits into the spout of 
the funnel for a spire. 

Tack the edges of the cans to 
the wooden blocks, and wire the 
funnel roof to the upper can as 
shown in Fig. 497, fastening one 
end of each wire to the funnel 
rim and the other end to a small 
staple driven into the upper 
block. Twist the wires until 
the funnel is firm. Nail the 
bottom can to the top of whatever support you provide 
for the tower. Paint the tin to prevent its rusting. 

The Bird Castle shown in Fig. 494 was designed and 
built by the author a number of years ago for his 




Fig. 499 Fig. 498 

Figs. 498 and 499. — Details 
of the Tin-can Bird Tower 
shown in Fig. 497. 



272 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



garden. Since that time hundreds of castles of similar 
design have been built by girls and boys from the author's 
plans. In the photograph opposite page 264, you will 
see a number of models of this castle, entered in a bird- 
house contest held by the Pittsburgh public schools. 

The corner towers of the castle are built like the 
tower in Fig. 497. The castle measures 12 inches long, 
7 inches wide, 16 inches high at the 
highest point, and 11 inches high at 
the lowest point, and it is made of 
box boards. 

Figure 500 shows an end view of 
the castle with the tower of the op- 
posite end in position. First cut the 
two end pieces H, and a third piece 
of the same shape and size for a 
center partition, then nail the front 
and back boards I and J to them. 
Cut the pieces indicated by the dotted 
lines K to fit between the center parti- 
tion and the end pieces, for a loft 
floor. Cut an opening for each 
compartment in the end pieces (Fig 

Nail the roof boards L and M in place and fasten 
strip N to the base at the front (Fig. 500), then mount 
the castle upon a platform 11 inches wide and 24 inches 
long. Build up the towers at the two corners, and 
nail each can to the corner of the castle as you put it 
in place. 




Fig. 500. — End View 
of Bird Castle shown 
in Fig. 494, with One 
Tower in Position 



500). 



HOME-MADE BIRD-HOUSES 273 

The drawbridge (0, Fig. 500) measures lyi inches 
by 3K inches; hinge one end to the base strip, and 
suspend the other end by small brass chains fastened 
to the under side and to the front wall. 

Each can of the towers has a circular opening cut 
in it, but the long narrow windows in the towers and 
front wall of the castle, and the large doorway, are 
painted. The walls should be painted white, and the 
roof should be green or red. 

The little flag and the weather-vane are mounted 
upon nails stuck into corks, and the corks are pushed 
into the spouts of the funnels (Fig. 500). Set a cup 
in the platform at each end for drinking water. The 
castle may be bracketed upon a wall as shown in 
Fig. 494, or it may be mounted upon a post. 

A Bird Ark. For the bird ark shown in Fig. 495, 
three cans are joined together in the same manner as 
those of the tower are joined (Figs. 498 and 499). 
Both ends of the center can are removed, but the 
bottom is left on the end cans. Cut a doorway in the 
side of the center can and another through the bottom 
of each end can; do not remove the pieces of tin from 
the openings, but bend them out for perches, as shown. 
Cut the roof boards of the proper size to project over 
the ends and sides of the cans, nail them together, 
and then fasten them in place by driving nails through 
the boards into the connecting blocks between the cans. 

Fasten the ark between blocks upon a board platform, 
then mount the platform upon a post support, and 



274 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



brace the support with brackets to make it secure. 
Run several perch-sticks through the brackets, as 
shown. 

A Wall Bracket Bird Ark (Fig. 501). This is con- 
structed in the same way as the ark described above, 

and the shape of 
the brackets and 
arrangement of 
perch sticks is 
clearly shown in 
the illustration. 
A House and 
Swing made out 
of a wooden pail 
inverted and 
bracketed to a 
wall as shown in 
Fig. 496, so that its handle hangs down and forms a 
swing, is an attractive little house for the back yard. 

Make the vertical partition to divide the pail into two 
compartments, and cut a circular piece of board to fit in 
the top. Nail the roof board to the bottom of the pail, 
cut an opening into each compartment, and fit a small 
block of wood beneath each opening for a platform. 

Nail a short block of wood to the wall where the house 
is to go, for the pail to rest on, and nail a longer strip at 
the proper height above it to nail the roof-board to. 

The Hanging House shown in Fig. 502 may be made 
from a 25-pound or a 12>^-pound white-lead keg; this 




Fig. 501. — A Wall-Bracket Bird Ark. 



HOME-MADE BIRD-HOUSES 



275 




can be procured from any 
painter. Cut the square 
roof board wide enough to 
project 3 or 4 inches over 
the sides of the keg, and 
bore two holes in the 
proper positions for the 
wire handles to run 
through. Each opening 
should have a perch fas- 
tened below it. Suspend 
the house by means of 
two cords as shown in the 
illustration. 

Birds seek the protec- 
tion of trees and roof- 
eaves during storms, and 

A Shelter on the plan 
shown in Fig. 503 will 
help to make your yard a 
popular resort at such 
times. You will also find 
that the birds will fly to 
these perches to dry and 
preen their feathers after taking their morning baths. 

Figure 504 shows one of the two uprights which sup- 
port the perches and roof. These may be cut out of 
strips 3 or 4 inches wide. Miter the top ends as shown, 
— that is, cut off the two corners at an angle of 45 



Figs. 503 and 504. — A Shelter. 



276 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 505. — A Garden Bird Bath. 



degrees; — bore the 
holes A and B 1 
inch in diameter, 
A about 3 inches 
below the top, and 
B 6 inches below 
that again ; then 
slip a piece of 
b r o o m-h a n d 1 e 
through two of the 
holes to keep them 
in line and nail the 
lower ends to oppo- 
site sides of a post. 
The long perch-sticks are pieces of broom-handle, and 
the small ones are dowel sticks. The small perch-sticks 
are run through holes bored through the pieces of 
broom-handle. 

Cut the roof boards about 18 inches long, one 12 
inches in width, and the other as much less as is neces- 
sary to allow for the lapping of edges. Nail the face of 
the wide piece to the edge of the narrow piece, then nail 
the roof to the uprights. 

A garden is not complete without 
A Bird Bath. In Fig. 505 is shown one which also 
will serve the purpose of a vine rack. The first thing 
to do is to drive a pole into the ground. Then select 
straight pieces of branches 12 inches long, pass a piece 
of cord around each near one end (Fig. 506), and tie 



HOME-MADE BIRD-HOUSES 



277 




Fig. 506 



around the pole about 10 
inches below its top (Fig. 
507). These pieces form 
a crotch-setting for the 
bird basin, for which a 
tin pan may be used. 

After setting the pan 
upon the pole, pass an- 
other piece of heavy cord 
around the branches, near 
the upper ends, with 
which to bid the 
branches tightly against 
the sides of the pan. Tie 
cords to the tops, and 
run them down to stakes 
driven into the ground, 
to train vines upon. You 
will be more than repaid 
for providing the bath, by 
the appreciation shown 
by the birds. 

Miscellaneous Notes. 
Probably in the following 
notes you will find sugges- 
tions that will be helpful. 

Tin-can Bird-houses will become too hot for birds 
if the sun's rays beat upon them. Always place these 
houses in shady places. 




Figs. 506 and 507. — Details of Sup- 
port for Bird Bath. 



278 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

Prevent Drafts Upon Nests by closing all open joints in 
the bird-houses. Holes may be bored through the wall for 

Ventilation, but not lower than the doorway. 

Doorways. Birds prefer houses with openings no 
larger than their bodies require to enter. An enemy 
small enough to enter can be taken care of; a larger 
enemy is likely to be a menace. 

Water-tight Roofs. A good method of making water- 
tight roofs is by the use of roofing-felt. This may be 
cut into small squares and put on in the same way as 
shingles. Oilcloth Is another good covering material. 
If the house is small, a water-tight roof can be made 
by using one piece of board. 

Finishing. All bird-houses should be given two 
coats of oil paint, or one good coat of wood stain. If 
you prefer to stain the houses, go to a paint store and 
buy shingle-stain. Brown and green are the stain- 
colors generally used; white, brown, and green are 
the paint colors generally used. Putty up all nail-holes 
and cracks after staining Is done, coloring the putty 
with stain, and on a house to be painted, putty after 
the first coat of paint has been applied. 

Protect Your Houses from cats and squirrels by 
fastening sheet-iron collars around the trunks of trees 
that you suspend houses from, also around post supports. 




CHAPTER XXIX 
GARDEN HANDICRAFT 



;.._ -«•", '.IN 




If you will plant flower-seeds indoors in the early 
Spring, you will have sturdy seedlings to transplant 
in your outdoor garden by the time all danger of frost 
is past. These will mature from a month to six weeks 
earlier than plants from seeds started when the season 
is far enough advanced to permit outside planting. 

All that this indoor planting requires is a box or 
two filled with finely pulverized soil, but a novel 
arrangement is to make 

Miniature Greenhouses like those shown in Figs. 508 
and 511. Starch-boxes are of about the right size for 
these. It is better to use small boxes than large ones 
because the earth makes the boxes heavy, and the 
smaller- they are the easier they are to handle. 

Figure 508 shows the simpler form — 

A Greenhouse with a Lean-to Roof. Cut the top 
of the starch-box ends slanted so that the front edge is 
about 2}4 inches high and the rear edge 5 inches high, 
and cut down the front and back even with the edges 
of the ends, as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 509. 

With the cutting done, get a piece of glass large 
enough to fit over the top and project a trifle over the 

279 



28o HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

front and ends. Possibly you can find an unused 
picture-frame with a glass of the right size, or several 
camera plates that can be fastened together with 
passe-partout paper to make a piece large enough to 
cover the box; if not, a painter will sell you a piece 
for a nickel. Hinge the glass with a strip of tape 
glued both to the glass and the back of the box, then 
coat the strip with shellac to protect the glue from the 
action of water. 

The Greenhouse with a Gable Roof, shown in Fig. 




Fig. 508. — A Miniature Greenhouse with a Lean-to Roof 

508, looks more like a florist's greenhouse. The 
starch-box which forms the foundation must be cut 
down as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 512, so the 
remaining depth will be about 2>^ inches (Fig. 513). 

With the box thus prepared, cut two end pieces out 
of thin box board {A, Fig. 514), and tack these to the 
box ends. Make the peak of each 8 inches above the 
bottom edge. The box may be stood on end upon the 
boards for the purpose of marking out the lower 
portion of end pieces A. When the two board ends 



GARDEN HANDICRAFT 



281 




Fig. 509. — The Dotted Lines Indicate Where to 
Cut the Box Sides. 



have been marked out, cut, and tacked to the box ends, 
procure two pieces of glass of the right size to project 
over ends A and the sides of the box, as shown in Fig. 

511. Join these 
two pieces {B and 
C, Fig. 515) at the 
peak with a strip 
of tape lapped 
over them (D, Fig. 
515). 

Unlessthe Boxes 
are Metal -lined, 
they are likely to 
leak after you 
water the planted 
seeds, so it is a 
good idea to 
place beneath the 
box 

A Cake-tin to 
Catch Drippings; 
also to attach 
spool feet to keep 
the bottoms high 
and dry (Fig. 5 11). 
Paint the Green- 
houses with a 
couple of coats 

Fig. 511. — a Greenhouse with a Gable Roof. of whitC enamel. 




Fig. 510. 



•The Cut-down Base Ready for the 
Glass Roof, 




282 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

Select loam soil from last summer's garden, for 
Filling the Miniature Greenhouses; also, get some 
pebbles or broken stone. Scatter a layer of the stone 




Fig. 512. — The Dotted Lines Indicate Where to Cut the 
Box Sides 




Fig. 513. — The Box with Sides cut Down 




Fig. 514. — Put on the Gable Ends Like This 

over the box bottom, then spread the soil to a depth 
of 5 or 6 inches on top of the stone. 



GARDEN HANDICRAFT 



283 



Plant the Seeds not closer than 2 inches apart, and 
not deeper than 4 diameters of the seeds. Water 
frequently, to keep the soil continually moist, and 
allow plenty of sunlight to enter through the glass 
roofs. 





Fig. 515. — Hinge the Halves of the 
Glass Roof Like This 



Fig. 517. Fig. 516. 
Figs. 516 and 517. —A Dibble 



One of the pleasures of gardening is the trying out 
of new 

Garden Ideas, and on following pages I have shown 
a number of devices which I have found good, and 
which I know will be worth your adopting. 

When planting, have you ever used 

A Dibble for making holes of the right size for seeds 
and transplantings? Figure 516 shows a simple dibble 
made of a short piece of broom-handle (A, Fig. 517), 
pointed at one end, with a short crosspiece (B) nailed 



284 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



across the other end for a handle. The handle may 
be omitted, but it gives a better hold for working the 
point into the ground. 





Fig. 520 




Fig. 518 
Figs. 518 to 520. 



Fig. 519 



Three Methods of Shielding Transplantings until they 
have Taken Root 

It Is necessary 

To Protect Transplantings from the sun until they 
have taken root and are able to withstand the heat 
without wilting, and Figs. 518, 519 and 520 show three 
good means of shielding them. Figure 518 shows 

A Paper-funnel Shield, so folded that one side, left 
open, can be turned away from the sun, to admit light 
and air. 

The Flower-pot Shield (Fig. 519) is commonly used 



GARDEN HANDICRAFT 



285 




for short plants, because flower-pots are almost always 
at hand ; 

The Basket Shield (Fig. 520) is a good type because, 
while it gives protection, it admits light and air. 
These coverings should be removed after sundown, of 
course, so the plants will receive the night dew. 

Garden Markers should be 
used for indicating the locations 
of the different kinds of seeds 
you plant, and excellent markers 
can be made of short pieces of 
lath (Figs. 521 and 522). Point 
one end of each marker, and write 
or paint the seed name on one 
face. If you will go to the trouble 
of sandpapering the sticks, Fig. 521 Fig. 522 

and giving them a coat of white Figs. 521 and 522. — A Garden 

paint, before marking them, Marker 

the markers will be worth keeping from year to year. 

A Small Sprinkler is handy, and, lacking a sprinkling- 
can, you will find a tin can with a perforated bottom 
(Figs. 523 and 524) a good substitute. Punch holes 
through the can-bottom with a nail. Fill the sprinkler 
by dipping it into a pail, and hold it as the girl in 
Fig. 523 is holding it. 

The Umbrella Bower shown In Fig. 525 makes an 
excellent support for morning-glory, wild cucumber, 
and cypress vines. A worn-out umbrella that is past 
repair should be used. If any ribs are broken, it is a 



286 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



simple matter to bind a piece of heavy wire to them, 
so as to stiffen them; and if the connections have 



Fig. 524 




Fig. 523. — A Small Garden Sprinkler 

Fig. 524. — Perforate the Bottom of a Tin Can 



rusted through, they may be wired back in place well 
enough to serve your purpose. 

For the lower part of the support get an old broom. 



GARDEN HANDICRAFT 



287 



Instead of sawing off the handle above the straw, cut 
the wire binding and unwind the wire, so as to preserve 
the full length of the handle. Then cut two blocks of 
wood 10 or 12 inches long, and by means of these and 
cord or wire, splice to- 
gether the broom-handle 
and umbrella-handle. 

Set the lower end of 
the broom - handle into 
the ground in a spot in 
the garden or on the lawn 
suitable for a vine rack. 
Run a cord around the 
ends of the umbrella-ribs, 
slipping it through the eye 
of each rib; then tie a 
piece of cord to this cord, 
at each rib, and another 
in the center of each space 
between (Fig. 5 25), and tie 
the other end of these 
cords to stakes driven into 
the ground directly in 

line with the points at which they are tied above, but 
about 6 inches farther away from the broom-handle. 

Transplant morning-glory shoots, or whatever species 
of vine you wish to have run over the frame, beside 
the stakes, and entwine the small tendrils around the 
strings to give the vines a start. The vines mentioned 




Fig. 525. — An Umbrella Bower 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



on a preceding page grov/ rapidly, and by carefully 
training them, guiding the little fingers so that each 
vine will spread to the adjoining strings, the spaces 
may be completely in- 
terlaced. By the time 
the top of the umbrella- 
frame has been reached 
you will have a thickly 
covered bower. 

It is impossible for 
me to show you the 
beauty of 

The Barrel-hoop 
Bower, by the illustra- 
tion (Fig. 526), because 
this had to be drawn in 
the form of a framework 
diagram, rather than a 
pretty picture. Try out 
this idea and see what 
a beautiful bower you 
will have when the 
framework is thickly 
covered with vines. 

Six barrel-hoops were 

used for the bower illus- Fig. 526. — A Barrel-hoop Bower 

trated. If you cannot 

find six hoops,omit the three bottom ones and drive stakes 

into the ground to tie the lower ends of the strings to. 




GARDEN HANDICRAFT 



289 



Bind each set of three hoops together with cord, as 
shown. Then set the end of a clothes-pole in the 
ground for a support, drop one set of hoops over its 
top, and let them slide down to the ground ; and support 
the other set 6 inches or so below the top of the pole 
by strings run from the hoops to a nail driven into the 
pole top. 

The illustration shows how strings connect the two 
sets of hoops, and how these strings should be spaced. 
Transplant your vines 
around the lower set 
of hoops, providing a 
vine for each string. 

I wonder if any of you 
know about the simple 
method of 

Putting Up Strings 
for Vines, shown in Fig. 
527. Drive stakes into 
the ground from 3 to 
4 feet apart, instead 
of using one stake for 
each vine, then drive 
a double-pointed tack 
(Fig. 528), or nail, into 
the top of each, connect 
the tacks or nails with 
wire or heavy cord, and 
tie the strings to the 




Fig. 528 

Fig. 527. — An Easy Method of Putting 

up Strings for Vines 
Fig. 528. — The Stick that Enables you 
to Reach the Top Nails without a Ladder 



290 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




wire or cord at the desired distances. Now, if nails are 
provided for the upper ends of the strings (Fig. 527), 

once they are in 
place you will 
not need a lad- 
der to put the 
strings over 
them. Use the 
unique scheme 
shown in Fig. 
527. Screw a 
screw - eye into 
the end of a 
stick, thread the 
screw-eye with 
string as you would thread a needle, and then by means 
of the stick hook the string over the nails. After tying 
the string to the horizontal wire or cord, run it up and 

over a pair of nails, then 

- Fig. 531 



down to the wire or cord ; 
tie, and run it along to 
the next vine, and up 
and over another pair 
of nails; and so on 
until a string for each ^^^ ^^^ ^^^ ^3^ 

vine has been pro- Figs. 530-532. — Two Ways of Fasten- 
vided. ing Trellis Together. 

A Trellis for a climbing-rose, or other vine, may be 
made of laths fastened together in the manner shown 



Fig. 529. — A Vine Trellis. 




(k 



GARDEN HANDICRAFT 



291 



in Fig. 529. The laths may be nailed together with 
brads (Fig. 530) ; or the edges may be notched as 
shown in Fig. 531, to receive lashings of cord put on 
as shown in Fig. 532. 

Cut the ends of the lath-strips pointed with a saw. 
Drive the lower ends of the upright strips into the 
ground. 

A Trellis of More Elaborate Design, though one 
that is quite as simple to make, is shown in Fig. 533. 




Fig. 533. — A Trellis of More Elaborate Design 

The center circular frame is a barrel-hoop, the upright 
pieces each side of this are sticks about 1>^ inches 
square, and the cross-pieces are laths. 

It is easiest to build this trellis flat upon the ground, 
then set it in position. First, fasten the barrel-hoop 



292 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




between the uprights; then cut the lath cross-pieces 
to the right lengths and nail them to the uprights. 
You will notice that the horizontal strips are nailed 
to both sides of the uprights. 

A Trellis for 
Sweet Peas like 
that shown in Fig. 
534 is not difficult 
for a girl to put up. 
Use strips 2 inches 
wide and 1 inch 
thick for the frame- 
work, and brace 
the upright pieces 
with diagonal 
strips as shown. 

Wire mesh can be had with mesh of a number of 
sizes (the meshes are the openings), the three common 
sizes are 1 inch, 1>^ inches, and 2 inches, and it comes 
in various widths, from 1 foot to 6 feet. Stretch the 
wire as tight as possible, to make a neat job, and tack 
it to the framework with small staples. 

A Weeding Stool makes weeding less tiresome, and 
Fig. 535 shows how by nailing a board across the open 
top of a small box, for a seat, 

A Weed Receptacle may be made of the box, also. 
Stand the box on end (Fig. 536) and it will serve as a 
step for reaching to the tops of high vine-racks; but 
a better scheme than this is 



Fig. 534. — Trellis for Sweet Peas 



GARDEN HANDICRAFT 



293 



A Set of Garden Steps, made of two weeding stools, 
one enough smaller than the other so that when stood 




Fig. 537 

Fig. 535. — A Weeding Stool and Weed Receptacle 

Fig. 536. — The Stool Stood on End for a Step 

Fig. 537. — Two Stools Combined to Form a Set of Garden Steps 

on end it will fit inside of the other box, between the 
end and the seat-board, as shown in Fig. 537. You 
will find this combination of boxes one of the handiest 
garden accessories that you own. 




As pretty hanging-baskets as any one would wish 
for can be made of easily obtained materials, some 
picked up at home, others purchased cheaply at the 
hardware store. 

The Tin-Funnel Basket shown in Fig. 538 requires a 
funnel 6 or 8 nches in diameter. Pierce three holes 
through the tin, below the rim, spacing them equi- 
distantly {A, Fig. 539), and connect a chain hanger 
to each hole by means of a short piece of wire. Run 
the wire through the hole and through the end link of 
the chain, then twist it. Bring together the upper 
ends of the chains, and wire them together, twisting 
the wire into a ring to loop over the hook that the 
basket is to hang from. Light-weight chain costs 
about 2 cents a foot at the hardware store. 

A cork fitted into the funnel spout will act as a 
stopper. It may be removed after every watering 
long enough for surplus water to drain out. 

Paint the Tin to prevent its rusting. White or green 
is best. 

The Colander Basket shown in Fig. 540 is neat in 
appearance and it is easily made. Its perforated 

294 



HANGING-BASKETS AND FLOWER-BOXES 295 



sides permit surplus water to drain off, thus preventing 
the fermentation which often results from water stand- 
ing in the bottom of a plant receptacle with no outlet. 





Fig. 538. — A Tin-Funnel Basket. 



Fig. 539. — Pierce Holes below the 
Rim, through which to Run 
Chain Hangers. 



Figure 541 shows how three holes {A), punched through 
the sides below the rim, at equal distances apart, are 
required to wire the lower ends of three chain hangers to. 



296 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Figure 542 shows 

A Rustic Basket made of a pail (Fig. 544). The pail 
is fastened upon a square wooden base (Fig. 543), 
and around the sides of the pail are piled straight 
pieces of branches log-cabin fashion. The basket 




Fig. 540. — A Colander Basket 



may be made large or small, according to the size of 
the pail you use. 

Place the pail upon the base, and draw a pencil line 
around its bottom. Then screw eight small screw-eyes 
into the board about y^ inch outside of this line {A, 



HANGING-BASKETS AND FLOWER-BOXES 297 




Fig. 541. — Perforate with Three 
Holes through which to Run 
Chain Hangers. 



Fig. 543); also, punch eight holes through the pail a 
trifle below the rim; and connect the screw-eyes and 
the rim holes with pieces of heavy cord stretched 
tightly and tied se- 
curely to them. 
These cords will 
hold the pail upon 
the base, and hold 
the branch logs close 
to the sides of the 
pail. By Fig. 542 
you will see how 
the ends of the logs 
are crossed, also 
how the length of 
each tier of logs is 
increased to allow 
for the slanting sides 
of the pail. 

When the logs 
have been laid up 
to the height of the 
pail-rim, bind to- 
gether the ends by 
winding a cord 

around them, in and pj^ 542. —a Rustic Basket Made of a Pail 

out, from top to 

bottom, and tying. Screw four screw-eyes into the 

base near the corners, to attach hanging-chains to, 




298 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 543. — Base 



Fig. 544. — Lard Pail 
for Rustic Basket 




Fig. 545. — An Egg-basket Flower Basket 



HANGING-BASKETS AND FLOWER-BOXES 299 



The Egg-basket Flower Basket shown in Fig. 545 
requires but Uttle preparation. All that is necessary, 
is a lining of moss, and 
wire hangers. Turn 
the lining mossy-side 
out. Fasten a pair of 
wire hangers to the 
handle as shown. 

Wire e g g-b a s k e t s 
come in different shapes 
and sizes, but the one 
shown in the illustra- 
tion is of the best pro- 
portions for a flower- 
basket. You can buy 
one for 10 or 12 cents. 

The Flower-pot 
Basket in Fig. 546 is 
supported in a frame 
like that shown in Fig. 
547. This is made of 
light-weight wire. 
Stove-pipe wire is a 
good kind to use be- 
cause it is easily bent 

, , . , . Fig. 546. — A Flower-pot Basket 

and breaks with a tew 

twists at the point desired. First, form the wire ring 
of the right diameter to catch around the under side 
of the top flange of the flower-pot, then attach the 




300 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



three wire hangers to the ring, spacing them equidis- 
tantly, and join the upper ends to form a hook, as 

shown. If you 
cannot find the 
wire for making 
the frame, use 
heavy wrapping- 
twine. 

The Two-pot 
Basket shown in 
Fig. 548 requires 
a wooden frame 
Hke that shown 
in Fig. 549, to 
hold the flower- 
pots. Cross- 
strips B of this 
frame should be 
cut to the length 
of the outside dia- 
meter of the 
flower-pots, mea- 
sured beneath the 
top flange, and 
strips A should 
be cut of the 
right length to 
connect the cross- 

FiG. 548. — A Two-pot Basket picces. After 




Fig. 547. Hanger for Flower-pot Basket 




HANGING-BASKETS AND FLOWER-BOXES 301 




nailing the frame strips together, screw screw-eyes 
into the ends of strips A and attach rope or wire hang- 
ers to them. 

The Box Basket shown in Fig. 550 may be made 
of a shallow grocery box. All that is necessary to 
prepare the box, 
is to reinforce the 
nailing of boards 
where they show 
signs of loosen- 
ing, and to pro- 
vide hangers. 
The best way to 
provide for hang- 
ers, is to nail a 
pair of strips 
several inches 
longer than the 
width of the box, 
to the box bot- 
tom, as shown at 
A in Fig. 551, 
and screw screw- 
eyes into the ends 
of these cross 
strips. With the 
hangers tied to 
the screw-eyes, 

the weight of the Fig. 550. — a Box Basket 



Fig. 549. — Frame to Hold Flower- 
pots for Basket 




302 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




earth-filled box will be borne by strips A and no strain 

will come upon the box-bottom boards. 
Figure 552 shows 

Another Box Basket, which may be made from either 

a square or oblong gro- 
cery-box. Mark off the 
center of each side of the 
box, then prepare four 
square sticks an inch 
longer than the box Is 
deep, screw a screw-eye in- 
to the end of each, and nail 
securely to the box sides, 
one at the center of each 
side (Fig. 553). Fasten 
chains to the screw-eyes. 
The Rustic Basket in Fig. 554 has a box foundation 

(Fig. 555). Screw screw-eyes into the ends of four 

sticks, to connect 

hanging chains to, 

and nail these 

strips to the box, 

one inside of each 

corner. 

Select straight 

pieces of branches 

to cover the box 

•, 1 /-^ . • Fig. 552 Fig. 553 

With. Cut a pair ^ ^^ a .u ^ n i . 

^ Fig. 552. — Another Box Basket 

of these for each Fig. 553. — Detail of Box and Hanger Post 



Fig. 551. — The Box Bottom showing 
Hanger Crosspieces 




HANGING-BASKETS AND FLOWER-BOXES 303 

corner 2 Inches or so longer than the depth of the 
box, cut half of the side pieces >^ inch longer than 
the depth of the box, and the other half 1 inch longer 
than the depth. Nail the branches to the box 




Fig. 554 
Fig. 554. — A Rustic Basket Made of a Box 
Fig. 555. — Box Foundation and Detail of Corner Posts 



with small nails, first fastening on the corner pieces, 
then the pieces between, then the bottom pieces. 

Flower-boxes for the window or to stand upon the 
porch balustrade are quite as easy to make as hanging- 



304 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



baskets. The only difference between the construc- 
tion of 

A Window Flower-box similar to that shown in 
Fig. 556, and a grocery-box is that the bottom of the 
flower-box is fitted between the sides and ends, instead 



Fig. 556 




Fig. 557 



•ac 




SCREWINTO 
WlNOOW-FRAME 



Fig. 556. — A Window Flower-Box 
Fig. 557. — Detail of Box and Method of Anchoring 
It to a Window-Frame 

of nailed to the bottom edges, and that a narrow strip 
is nailed around the top edges. The top band gives 
the flower-box a pleasing style. 

Eight inches is a good width, 6 inches is plenty deep, 
and the length should be such that the box will extend 
along the entire width of the window-sill. 



HANGING-BASKETS AND FLOWER-BOXES 305 

A simple method of anchoring the box in position 
is shown in Fig. 557. Screw a screw-hook into the 
top band of the box, on the back, near each end, and 
screw a screw-eye into the window-frame, at each side, 
in the proper position to receive each screw-hook. 
Care must be taken to set the flower-box far enough 
out on the sill so that it will not interfere with the 
raising of the window-screen. 

Bore drain-holes through the box bottom, providing 
a hole for about every 12 square inches of bottom 




Fig. 558. — A Window or Porch Balustrade Box 

surface. The holes should be about yi inch in diameter. 
Lay pieces of broken flower-pot over the holes, to 
keep the earth-filling from getting into them. 

The Window or Porch Balustrade Box shown in 
Fig. 558 breaks away from the straight lines of the 
grocery-box type, and is of a pleasing design. 

The most particular part of the construction of the 
box is the preparation of the ends {A, Fig. 559). In 



3o6 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



laying out one of these pieces, first draw a center-line 
across the board it is to be cut out of, then each side 
of this line measure off the distances given, and connect 
the points with straight lines. Be careful to get both 
sides of the center alike, also both end pieces alike. 

The box sides {B, Fig. 559) should be cut 7 inches 
wide by whatever length you want to have the box. 
Mark off upon the end pieces the positions for the 

sides, locating them as 
shown in Fig. 559, then 
nail with finishing-nails. 
The bottom board 
(C, Fig. 559) fits be- 
tween the sides, and its 
edges must be planed or 
sawed off on a bevel of 
the same pitch as that 
of the box sides. Nail 
through the sides into 
the bottom board. 
A Corner Box for a Porch Railing, like that shown 
In Fig. 560, makes a pretty flower garden. Figure 561 
shows the completed box, and Fig. 562 how the side 
pieces are joined. The corner opposite the long side 
of the box must be cut off as shown, and the piece C 
nailed to the ends of sides A and B, so the porch corner 
post will not interfere with sides A and B standing 
upon the porch railing. Nail piece C to the ends of 
A and B (Fig. 562), then saw off Its ends even with 







h-4i--l 



Fig. 559. — Pattern for End Pieces 



HANGING-BASKETS AND FLOWER-BOXES 307 

the sides of A and B. In the same way, nail side D 
to sides A and B, and then saw off its ends even with 
the outside face of these sides. 

Nail cleats to sides A, B and D, as shown in Fig. 562, 
then cut the bottom boards to rest upon them, and 
nail them in place. 

The Plant-box shown in Fig. 563 may be made 
of a grocery box. Figure 564 shows how the corner 

Fig. 562 




Fig. 560. — A Corner Box for 
a Porch Railing 



Fig. 561 
Fig. 561. — The Complete Box. 
Fig. 562. — Detail of Corner 
Construction 



strips should be prepared and fastened together. 
Make them long enough so that the tops will project 
1 inch above the top of the box, and the lower ends 
about 2 inches below the bottom. The upper corners 



3o8 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



of the strips can be cut off by means of a chisel. In 
fastening the corner strips in place, be careful to make 
the lower projections equal. Figure 565 shows a plan 
of the box, and a good arrangement for the drain-holes. 



Fig. 



Fig. 564 



Fig. 563 




Fig. 563. — A Plant- Box 
Fig. 564. — The Corner Strips 
Fig. 565. — Plan of Box 

Paint the Flower-boxes and the hanging baskets 
with two coats of oil paint. Medium chrome-green 
looks well upon boxes, and white is always in good 
taste. Drive all nail-holes below the surface of the 
wood, then, after the first coat of paint has been applied 
and dried, putty all nail-holes, cracks, and joints 
before applying the second coat. 




Make enough May-baskets, and fill with spring 
flowers, so that there will be one for each friend. 
These may be distributed on May-day or hung upon 
door knobs on May-day eve, as has long been a pretty 
custom. You will find it lots of fun to make, fill, 
and present these little tokens of friendship. 

It is well to give small bouquets so that your supply 
of wild flowers will go a long way, and small baskets 
answer best as receptacles for them. The foundation 
material can be picked up at home, and a few cents 
will purchase as much colored tissue-paper for covering 
them as you will need. 

The Cornucopia Basket in Fig. 566 is a dainty holder 
for wood violets and other small flowers, and its depth 
makes it a desirable shape for long-stem flowers, also. 
Figure 567 shows how to roll up a sheet of v/riting-paper 
into a cornucopia. Lap and paste the edge of the 
paper as in Fig. 568, then cover the outside with 
colored tissue-paper. Gather this into small pleats at 
the bottom, and slash it to form fringe. Cut a strip 
of paper 2 inches wide, slash it as shown in Fig. 569 
to form fringe, and paste it around the top, allowing 

309 



3IO 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Fig. 567 



Fig. 568 




Fig. 570 



Fig. 569 



Fig. 566 

Fig. 566. — A Cornucopia May-Basket 

Figs. 567 and 568.— How to roll up the Cornucopia 

Fig. 569. — Paper Fringe 

Fig. 570. — Handle made of Braided Paper Strips 



the fringe to hang 
down. The basket 
handle is made of 
strips of tissue- 
paper 2 inches 
wide, rolled length- 
wise into long 
slender tubes, then 
braided together 
(Fig. 570). Stitch 
the ends to the top 
edge of the cornu- 
copia. 

Figure 571 shows 
a unique form of 

Basket Made of 
a Writing-paper 
Box. The dotted 
lines in Fig. 572 
indicate how to cut 
the box ends at 
their centers, and 
the dotted Hne in 
Fig. 573 indicates 
how to score the 
box bottom with a 
knife, along the 
center, to provide 
for telescoping one 



MAY-BASKETS 



3" 



F"i«- 572 Fig. 573 half into the other 

as in Fig. 574. 
Stitch the teles- 
coped ends to- 
gether, then cover 
the outside of the 
box with tissue- 
paper, and attach 
a ribbon to the cor- 
ners for a handle. 

A berry-box fur- 
nishes the material 
for 

The Hooded 
Basket in Fig. 575. 
The first thing to 
do is to cut the bot- 
tom of the box in 
half, diagonally, 
from corner to cor- 
ner, as indicated 
by the dotted line 
in Fig. 576, and 
one half 
(Fig. 578). Then 
prepare a triangular piece of cardboard like that 
shown in Fig. 577 of the same size as the remaining 
half of the box bottom, with flaps along the two short 
edges, and glue the piece between the box sides opposite 




Fig. 571 

Fig. 571. — A May-Basket made of a Writing- 
paper Box 

Figs, 572 to 574. — How the Box is Cut and remOVe 
Folded 



312 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



the bottom half (Fig. 578). Instead of cardboard, the 
triangular piece may be cut out of berry-box wood. 
Cover the box with tissue-paper, or else stain the 
v/ood green or brown. Tie ribbon to the box-corner 
for a handle. 



Fig. 576 



Fig. 578 




Fig. 577 



Fig. 575 
Fig. 575. — A Hooded May- Basket 
Figs. 576 to 578. — How a Berry Box is converted into the Basket 

The cover from a tin can, with a band of heavy paper 
or light-weight cardboard about it, provides the 
foundation for 

The Cylindrical Holder shown in Fig. 579. The 
dotted lines in Fig. 580 show the position of the can 



MAY-BASKETS 



313 



cover. Paste tissue-paper over the outside of the 
holder, and attach a ribbon handle. 

Keep your wild flowers in water until you are ready 
to use them, so that they will remain fresh. When 

Filling the May-baskets, wrap wet tissue-paper or 
moss around the stem ends, then wrap enough dry 
paper around this to prevent the moisture from soaking 
through and staining the outside of the baskets. 





Fig. 579. — a Cylindrical 
Holder 



Fig. 580. — A Can Cover 
forms the Bottom, and 
the Sides are Cardboard 




^W!W¥ 



m^^m.'' 



CHAPTER XXXII 
A VACATION RECORD-BOOK 



-■/,.- ■*••;•„ j'i-^ 




^■1. Z'^- -"Krc^- 



It is almost as good as living one's summer vacation 
over again, to read a carefully kept diary of places 
visited and things done, and not only during the coming 
year, but years from now when you have grown to 
womanhood will you treasure these notes. Try my 
suggestion this summer, and you will make it a custom 
to keep a vacation diary hereafter. 

Any note-book will serve the purpose of a vacation 
diary, but I would suggest that you make 

A Loose-leaf Record-book Hke that in Fig. 581, 
which will permit the addition of pages from year to 
year. 

Make the cover of whatever shape and size you want, 
but I would suggest a width of 14 inches and a height 
of 8 inches. Cardboard from boxes may be used for 
the covers. Figure 582 shows the back cover (A) and 
the front cover (B). 

Cut these of equal size, then cut a strip ^ of an 
inch wide from the left-hand end of the front cover 
{C, Figs. 582 and 583), fold over it a strip of drilling 
2}4 inches wide {D, Figs. 582 and 583), and glue this 

314 



A VACATION RECORD-BOOK 



31S 



drilling to the cardboard strip; then glue the project- 
ing edges of the drilling both to the upper and lower 
surfaces of cover B. Punch three holes through this 
hinged stub, and punch three holes in corresponding 
positions through back cover A. 

Buy Manila wrapping-paper from your grocer for 
The Loose Leaves, and cut the paper into sheets of 
the right size so that when placed between the covers, 




Fig. 581. — A Loose-leaf Record-Book 




Fig. 582. — The Covers, and Stub Hinge for 
Upper Cover . 



Fig. 583. — The 
Stub Hinge for Up- 
per Cover 



the covers will project yi inch beyond the upper, 
lower, and right-hand edges. With the point of a 
knife, carefully punch holes through the leaves. If 



3i6 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

you live near a printing shop, you can probably get 
the punching done there at a small cost. 

Use a Shoe-string Lacing. Run this down through 
the center hole of the front cover, then along the back 
of the back cover to one of the end holes, up through 
that hole, across the front cover to the opposite end 
hole, down through that hole, along the back cover to 
the center hole, up through that hole, and tie the two 
ends together in a bow, (over the part of the string 
that extends from one end-hole to the other, Fig. 581). 

Make a Diary of the First Part of the book. These 
pages may be lettered ahead of time, with the days 
and dates, but because some days will furnish many 
notes, and others only a few, it is better to insert the 
day and date, daily. 

Besides the diary, plan to include 

Field Notes. If you are a careful observer, scarcely 
a day will pass when you will not make a discovery 
worth recording. 

Figure 584 shows a specimen page of 

Spatterwork Leaf Records. Have you ever made 
spatterwork pictures? It is very interesting, and a 
collection of spatterwork pictures of leaves and flowers 
is a collection to be proud of. You could easily fill 
several volumes with such pictures and then have a 
record only half-way complete, but by crowding several 
pictures upon a page, as shown in Fig. 584, you will 
be able to get a fair-sized collection within the limits 
of a portion of your record-book. 



A VACATION RECORD-BOOK 



317 



There is not much to learn about spatterwork. 
You will need a bottle of writing or drawing ink, a 
pen-knife, and a stiff bristle brush — a worn-out tooth- 
brush, one of the small brushes supplied with bottles 
of glue or mucilage, or a small oil-paint brush. 

To make a Spatterwork Picture of a leaf, place the 
leaf upon a page of the record-book, and smooth out 
its edges perfectly flat. Then, to protect all portions 




Fig. 584. — Make Spatterwork Leaf Records, like this 

of the page except that which you are going to spatter, 
cover them with pieces of paper, lapping the paper at 
the corners, and weighting it with coins, as indicated 
in Fig. 586. A space of yi inch around each leaf is 
enough to allow for the spatterwork background. 
With the leaf in position, and the protection sheets 
placed around it as directed, dip the brush into the 
ink, and draw the blade of the pen-knife across the 
ends of the bristles, as shown in Fig. 586, holding the 
brush in such a position that the ink on the bristles 
will spatter over the edges of the leaf. Move the 



3i8 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



brush from side to side so that the spattering will be 
even. When the ink has dried, lift the leaf from the 
page, and you will find a white silhouette of it upon a 
stippled background. 

Another way to record the shapes of leaves and 
flowers is by making pages of 








Fig. 585. — Make Leaf Impressions like this, with Thinned Printer's Ink 



Leaf Impressions, like that shown in Fig. 585. For 
working material, you will need a saucer, a piece of 
cotton rolled into a ball and covered with a piece of 
silk or soft cotton cloth, and about half a teaspoonful 
of printer's ink, or half a teaspoonful of shoe-paste 
mixed with a quarter of that amount of lard. Any 
friendly printer will give you the small quantity of 
ink required. 

Spread a little of the printer's ink or shoe-paste 
mixture upon the saucer. Then, taking the ball of 
cotton covered with silk or cotton cloth, pat the sur- 
face of the saucer until the ink or shoe-paste is spread 
evenly over the center. All will then be ready for 



A VACATION RECORD-BOOK 



319 



Making the Impressions. Place the side of the leaf 
on which the veins are most prominent, upon the 
inked surface of the saucer. Then lay a blotter, or 
piece of heavy paper, over the leaf, and press down 
upon every part to bring the leaf into perfect contact 
with the inked saucer. If you own a photograph 
print-roller, you can get good results by using it to 
roll down the leaf. 

•After pressing or rolling down the leaf, remove it 
carefully, and place the inked surface upon a page of 
your record-book; then press or roll every portion of 

it as before, and re- 
move it. In remov- 
ing the leaf, be 
careful to lift it 
straight up without 
sliding it sideways, 
in order not to blur 
the impression. 
The impression 
should be perfect, 
with the delicate 
veins shown ex- 
tended in all direc- 
tions, each accur- 
ately located. The 
impressions shown 
in Fig. 585 were 

Fig. 586. — Making Spatterwork Pictures made in this Way. 




320 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

Flower Impressions are more difficult to make than 
those of leaves, because flowers are more delicate to 
handle; yet there are many kinds of which splendid 
impressions can be made. 

Impressions in Color can be made by using printer's 
inks of different colors, or by combining a colorless 
shoe-paste with oil-colors; and when the leaves assume 
their variegated colors of autumn, you can try your 
hand at making impressions in Nature's colors. 




m Blue-bird - NousF 

House- Putvp 

First Mihted 



Accepted AS Nesting Place . 

First EgsLXio 

Wo OF EGGS LAio 

eggs hatched, ^ 

Accidents:. 



Bbood Left Nest 

Second- Brooo 

Eggs laid no. l/>io. 

EGGS hatche;d.___ 

AcciOEN-rs: 

BROOD LEFT Nest 



Fig. 587. — Keep a Record of your Bird-House Tenants, like this 

Letter the Names of all leaves and flowers, below 
or to one side of the impressions, to make your record 
complete. 

Don't forget to 

Keep a Record of your Bird-House Tenants. You 
could not keep a more interesting record. Figure 587 
suggests a lay-out for a bird-house page, which you 
can copy as presented or alter to include your own ideas. 

Have you ever made 

A Record of Wild Birds? This is the best way to 




Robin I'hotds. ^kum Mh. Hall's \ acation Record Book 



A VACATION RECORD-BOOK 



321 



become acquainted with different species. Note care- 
fully the size, the colors, and the calls and song of 



,? .D 




A CROWN 

B FOREHEAD 

C BILL 

D EYE 

E NAPE 

F BACK 

G RUMP 0, 

H UPPERTAIL- COVERT 2 

I TAI L - 

J UNDER TAIL- COVERT X 

K TARSUS 



L ABDOMEN 

M SIDE 

N BREAST 

THROAT 

{P PRIMARIES 

Q SECONDARIES 

R TERTIARIES 

S PRIMARY COVERTS 

T GREATER COVERTS 

U MEDIAN COVERTS 

W LESSER COVEiRTS 



Fig. 588 — Make a Sketch like this in your Record-Book, with Parts 
Lettered, and Key Printed below it. 



every bird you see, when you are in the fields or woods, 
then determine what birds they are as soon as you can 
refer to a bird book or make inquiry of a well-informed 
bird lover; and when you have studied also the char- 



322 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

acterlstlcs of these birds you will possess an invaluable 
fund of bird lore. 

A Bird Chart like the one of the robin shown in Fig. 
588, placed in your field note-book, will aid you in 
making bird notes quickly. With the parts of the 
body lettered the same as they are upon the sketch 
I have shown, and a key to the letters placed beneath, 
as shown, it is but necessary to jot down the letters, 
and write the colors observed, opposite the letters. 
You might make a tracing of the printed sketch, and 
transfer this upon a page of your vacation record -book. 





CHAPTER XXXIII 
A HERBARIUM 



r^tnr- —rnsrs- 




You have gathered wild flowers, but I wonder how 
many of you own a herbarium, or collection of varieties, 
with a record of the common and botanical names, 
location where found, kind of soil, and other data. 
It is a splendid way to acquaint one's self with the 
flowers, plants, and ferns discovered while tramping 
through the woods, and across fields, and, if you 
haven't yet started a collection, I hope you will do so 
when the first opportunity offers. The work is fas- 
cinating, and your collection is something of which 
you will never tire, and will always be proud to show to 
friends. 

A Letter-file for Specimens (Fig. 589) is better than 
a book, and the heavy light-yellow wrapping-paper 
used in butcher-shops, cut into sheets of the right size 
to slip easily into the letter-file, is good material to 
mount specimens on. This paper is cheap, and you 
can buy as much as you want, when you want it. By 
placing the sheets loose in the file, specimens may be 
arranged according to their genus, and rearranged as 
new varieties are added. 

In addition to the herbarium file, you must have 

323 



324 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



A Press. Don't use books for the purpose. Make 
a regular press. Figures 590 and 591 show a practical 
press easy to construct, and Fig. 592 shows a working 
diagram. Make base-board A (Fig. 592) 12 inches 
wide and 18 inches long, and nail the three cross strips 
B to the under side, one at each end, and one in the 
center; and make the upper board C (Fig. 593) 12 
inches square. Cut the hinge blocks D 6 inches long, 
^ inch thick and IK inches wide, and bore a screw- 
hole through each exactly }4 inch from each end. By 
means of these blocks, hinge board C to A, being care- 
ful to locate the 
blocks in the same 
relative positions 
so that they will 
work together. 

Mount a flat- 
iron upon board C. 
Drive nails into 
board C (Fig. 593) 
at the sides of the 
iron, so the heads 
will come down 
upon the base, as 
shown in Fig. 590, 
then provide a loose pin to drop in a hole at the flat end 
(Fig. 593). The iron can then be slipped between the 
nails, endwise, and locked in place by dropping the 
loose nail into its hole. Doubled pieces of cardboard 




Fig. 589. — Letter-file for Specimens 



A HERBARIUM 



325 




Fig. 590. — The Herbarium Press. Open, with 
Specimen Sheets in Position for Pressing. 



beneath the nail-heads will hold the iron better than 

the heads would alone. The flatiron not only provides 

weight for pressing, but also serves as a handle for 

opening the press. 

Nail block E(Fig. 

592) to one end of 

board A as a. stop 

for board C to 

strikeagainst when 

the press is opened . 

Newspaper is 
good 

Material for 
Placing Specimens 
between for Pres- 
sing, as it is porous 
enough to absorb 
sap. A half-dozen 
or so sheets are 
not too many to 
place beneath and 
above the speci- 
men. These should 
be replaced with 
fresh papers about 

once a day, until the specimens have thoroughly 
dried and are ready for removal. Several sheets of 
specimens may be pressed at a time, one placed over 
another. 




\^3^ 



Fig. 591. — Pressing. 



326 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 592. 

Fig. 593. — Top 



B 

Fig. 592. 
Base for Herbarium Press 



To Transfer a 
Specimen to the 
Herbarium Sheets 

put a daub of glue 
upon the under 
side, then lay the 
specimen upon the 
^ sheet in as natural 
a position as pos- 
sible. Narrow 
strips of court- 
plaster lapped over 
the thick portions 
of stems will help 
hold them securely. 



Filing Specimens. The 
name, place of finding, and 
other data, may ,be written or 
printed In one corner of each 
sheet as indicated in Fig. 594. 
To simplify the finding of 
specimens, glue 

Index Tabs to the edges of 
your sheets in the same way 
that letter-file Indexes are 
attached, on which to letter 
the name of each genus. 




Fig. 594. — Arrange Speci- 
mens like this, with Name 
and other Data printed or 
written on the Sheet 




^^^r^_ 



CHAPTER XXXIV 



CAMP FIRE GIRLS 
CAMP CRAFT 




Girls used to spend summer afternoons embroidering, 
on the shaded front porch, where they received their 
friends and sipped iced drinks. Times have changed. 
Active girls of to-day have not abandoned needle-work ; 
they take their sewing-bags to lake or field or woods, 
and revel there in the saucy glances of the sun. They 
do not envy their brothers, the Boy Scouts; they join 
the 

Camp Fire Girls, and gain honors and discipline from 
a happy combination of work and play at home and 
out-of-doors. 

The aim of the Camp Fire Girls, in general, is summed 
up in 

The Law of the Council Fire, which every girl must 
pledge herself to follow, upon joining the organization. 
This law is: Seek Beauty; Give Service; Pursue 
Knowledge; Be Trustworthy; Hold on to Health; 
Glorify Work; Be Happy. 

The Watchword, "¥/ohelo," is made from the first 
letters of the words Work, Health and Love 

To Become a Camp Fire Girl it is but necessary to 
learn the Law of the Council Fire, and express an earn- 

327 



328 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

est and constant desire to obey it. But no girl is 
satisfied until she has successively attained the ranks 
of Wood Gatherer, Fire Maker, and Torch Bearer*. The 
first of these. 

Wood Gatherer, is attained only after the fulfilment of 
the following requirements: Be a member of a Camp Fire 
for at least two months; Attend at least six weekly 
meetings and two ceremonial meetings; Select a name 
and symbol; Make a headband; Have the ceremonial 
dress; Win in addition at least ten elective "honors." 
The rank of 

Fire Maker requires the fulfilment of the following: 
A girl must be at least thirteen years old; she must 
help prepare and serve two meals for meetings of the 
Camp Fire; she must mend a pair of stockings, a 
knitted under-garment, and hem at least one yard of 
hem on some necessary article; she must keep a written, 
classified account of all money received and spent for at 
least one month ; she must tie a square knot five times 
in succession correctly and without hesitation; she 
must sleep with open windows or out of doors for at 
least one month and take an average of at least one-half 
hour outdoor exercise for the same length of time, as 
well as abstain from chewing-gum, candy, soda and 
commercially manufactured beverages between meals 
for one month; she must name the causes of infant 

*The Camp Fire Girls Illustrated Manual tells how to organize a Camp Fire, 
describes fully the official costumes, ranks, and emblems, and tells how a girl 
can become a member. This booklet will be sent, postpaid, for 25 cents. Address 
Camp Fire Girls, 461 Fourth Avenue, New York City. 




Photos. (.'nurtiKy of Camp Fire Girls 

An Indoor Camp Firk CuuNCit, 



CAMP FIRE GIRLS CAMP CRAFT 329 

mortality In summer, and tell to what extent and how 
it has been reduced in one community; she must know 
what to do In the following emergencies: Clothing on 
fire; person in deep water who cannot swim, in summer 
or fallen through ice, in winter; open cut; frosted 
foot ; fainting ; and know the principles of elementary 
bandaging and how to use a surgeon's plaster. 

She must also know the laws of hygiene, diet, clean- 
liness, physical regularity, with the simple preventives 
of constipation through exercise, right food and regu- 
larity; the normal requirements of sleep and out-of- 
door exercise ; suitable dress for cold or wet weather ; 
the proper care of the feet and the right selection of foot- 
wear for school and tramping. She must also know 
"those intimate, personal things which careful mothers 
tell to their daughters." 

Nor is this the end of the list. She must commit to 
memory one good poem or song; know the career of 
some woman who has done much for country or state; 
and know and sing all of the words of the national 
anthem. And, in addition, she must have won twenty 
elective honors in 

The Seven Crafts of Camp Fire — Home Craft; 
Health Craft; Camp Craft; Hand Craft; Nature 
Lore; Business; Patriotism. Several hundred honor 
attainments are listed in the Manual. 

Before attaining the rank of 

Torch Bearer, a girl must be at least fifteen years of 
age. She must have proven herself trustworthy, 



330 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

unselfish, a good leader, and a good team-worker. To 
show powers of steady leadership is the most Important 
qualification, because she is to be an assistant to the 
Guardian. 

Little girls, between six and twelve years of age, 
are given membership as 

Blue Birds. Often these are younger sisters of 
Camp Fire Girls, who want to "belong." They are 
under the direct care and leadership of the Torch 
Bearers, and are by them taught to do all of the things 
of Camp Fire that it is possible for little girls to do, 
together with simple craft-work, which children love 
and which is the foundation for more difficult tasks. 
They are also taught the laws of hygiene and health. 

The leader of the Camp Fire group, is known as the 

Guardian of the Fire. She Is responsible for the 
conduct of the girls of the group, and for maintaining 
Camp Fire standards. A Guardian must be at least 
twenty-one years of age. 

The symbolic rites around the Council Fire, and the 
wholesome companionship of other girls occupied with 
the same tasks and the same pleasures means fun and 
frolic, and mutual helpfulness for every girl who joins 
this modern organization. 

The fields, the woods, and the mountains are just as 
much a place for girls as for boys, though strange as it 
seems, only lately have 

Hiking and Camping for girls been popularized to any 
great extent. Now, through the groups of Camp Fire 



CAMP FIRE GIRLS CAMP CRAFT 331 

Girls organized in every part of the country, girls are 
being encouraged and taught to be at home in the 
wilds, in much the same manner that boys are 
trained. 

Light-weight Clothing Is the most desirable for a girl 
who plans a hiking or camping trip, and woolen gar- 
ments are better than cotton, because they absorb 
perspiration. Wear bloomers, a middy, woolen stock- 
ings, and low-heeled shoes, a felt hat, and carry along 
a sweater. 

Keep the Feet in Good Condition. This Is of 
paramount Importance to one who plans to do much 
walking. If there Is a tendency towards blisters, a 
strip of adhesive plaster put on smoothly over the 
portion of the foot having that tendency will prevent 
blistering. Wash the feet frequently; if you can, take 
a second pair of shoes with you, change from one pair 
to the other when your feet begin to tire, and your 
feet will feel refreshed. Keeping the shoes greased well 
prevents the leather from hardening. When they 
have become wet, dry them thoroughly before putting 
them on again, but never dry them over a fire, because 
that will ruin the leather. Bits of torn newspaper 
stuffed into the toes of the shoes, and replaced from 
time to time with fresh bits, will quickly absorb water 
that has got Inside. 

There should be a knapsack to strap upon your back, 
in which to carry lunch, a kodak, a field note-book, 
and other articles useful on a "hike," so that with these 



332 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



articles disposed of, your hands will be free. Figure 
595 shows 

A Home-made Knapsack that is easy to make. 
This one has been patterned after the knapsack used 
in the regular army. In Figs. 596 to 598 you will find 
the details for making it. 

For Material, use brown or 
white canvas, khaki, or denim. 
Figure 598 shows the pattern 
for cutting the front, back, ends, 
and flap, with the necessary 
dimensions. The dotted lines 
indicate the folding. Sew with 
very stout linen thread, and to 
prevent fraying, bind the edges 
with tape or braid. 

The pocket upon the inside 
of the flap may be divided into 
three compartments by making 
rows of stitching. Fasten tapes to the flap and pocket- 
front of the large pocket so they may be tied to keep 
the pocket shut. A doubled tape, with button holes 
worked in it should be stitched to the end of the flap 
of the knapsack, and a button should be sewed to the 
under side of the bottom of the knapsack to button 
it on to (Fig. 596). 

Figure 597 shows the shoulder-straps, made of strips 
of canvas, doubled, and stitched along the edges to make 
them firm. Cut the straps about 2 inches wide, and 30 




Fig. 595. — A Home- 
Made Knapsack 



CAMP FIRE GIRLS CAMP CRAFT 



333 



inches long, and stitch them at their centers to the 
back of the knapsack, in the positions shown in Fig. 597. 
The ends of the straps can be sewed together when you 



FiG.601 FiG.600 Fig. 599 




Fig. 597 Fig. 596 

Fig. 596. — Front View of Knapsack with Flap Opened 
Fig. 597. — Back View of Knapsack with Flap Closed 
Fig. 598. — Pattern for Cutting the Cloth 
Figs. 599 and 600. — Duffle-Bags 
Fig. 601. — Knife Sheath 



. ij"— -* 

Fig. 598 



have determined the right length to reach over your 
shoulders and down under your arms; or they may be 
tied as shown, so they can be readjusted at any time 
to fit over heavy clothing. 



334 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

Duffle-bags. Figures 599 and 600 show two small 
duffle-bags of the form with which knapsacks are 
usually supplied. They are provided to hold small 
articles, and keep them from scattering. Army knap- 
sacks have four of these little bags, measuring from 
3 to 5 inches. To make one, take a piece of light-weight 
canvas or drilling, of twice the width desired for the 
finished bag, fold in half, and stitch along one side and 
across the bottom; then make a hem across the top 
for a draw-string, for which a piece of heavy cord, 
knotted at the ends, should be used. 

Knife-sheaths should be made as shown in Fig. 601, 
of leather or canvas. 

Packing the Knapsack. For a short "hike," it is 
not likely that you will carry much more than a package 
of lunch, unless you add a tin plate, knife and fork, and 
cup. Then, the matter of packing is not important, 
except that the articles that might rattle together 
should be wrapped. But if you take a small outfit 
along, it is important to pack carefully, in order that 
everything can be put in, and that the weight may be 
evenly balanced. Distribute the heavy articles evenly, 
and place the solid and pointed articles in the front so 
they will not rub against your back. 

Losing One's Way, occasionally, is to be expected, 
but generally there is a way to find one's bearings if the 
girl keeps her head. Do not become panicky. Sit 
down, and coolly try to study out where you made the 
wrong turn in the trail. A stream, a road, or an old 




J'hxtos. Oiurtrsi/ nj Canip Ftre Girls 

Making Fire Without Matches 
Mrs. Luther H. Gulick, Founder of Camp Fire Girls 



CAMP FIRE GIRLS CAMP CRAFT 



335 



landmark will often help you out. When tramping 
over new territory, however, it is best to 

Blaze Your Trail as you go, in order that it will be 
easy to retrace your steps upon your return. One 
excellent way of "blazing a trail" is the bent-over twig 
method shown in Figs. 602 to 604. Bend the twigs 
over every few hundred yards, bending the tops in the 
direction opposite to that which you are going, to 






Fig. 602, — Straight 
Ahead. 



Fig. 603. — Turn to Fig. 604. — Turn to 
the Right. the Left. 



indicate "straight ahead" (Fig. 602), bending them to 
the left, to indicate "Turn to the Right," and bending 
them to the right to indicate "Turn to the Left"! 
Your followers, then, will know exactly what turns to 
make. On your return, you will easily discover the 
marks because the under or lighter side of the leaves of 
the broken branches will be toward you. 

You can determine the points of the compass by 
using 



33^ 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Your Wrist-watch as a Compass, wherever you 
happen to be, provided the sun is shining. Hold the 
wrist so that the hour-hand of the watch points toward 
the sun (Fig. 605); then the point half-way between 
the hour hand and figure "12" will be in a line with 




Fig. 60S. — Using Your Wrist-Watch for a Compass. Hold the wrist so that 
the hour-hand of the watch points towards the sun; then half-way 
between the hour hand and twelve o'clock is South. 



"South." Having located "South," you will know the 
other points as well, of course. 

If you lose your way at night, you will have 
The Stars as Guides, if they are shining, for as you 
probably know, the star at the end of the Little Dipper's 
handle is the Pole Star (North Star) (Fig. 606), and 
that is almost due North. If you have difficulty in 
locating the Little Dipper, you will find the Big Dipper 
easily, and an imaginary line drawn through the two 
stars forming the front of the Big Dipper will intersect 
with the Pole Star (Fig. 606). 
It is well to know 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 337 

How to Fold a Paper Cup, because often when upon 
a "hike" you wall come upon good drinking-water, and 
discover that you have forgotten to bring a cup. 
A paper cup is extremely simple to fold. Figure 607 
shows the steps in the process. Tear a piece of paper 
so that it will be 8 or 9 inches square (Step 1), fold the 



/ 



/ 

i, — if 



I BIG Dipper 

/ (URSA-MAJOR) 



^. 



> 
(URSA- MINOF^ 



LITTLE Dipper^ 



"-y<^' NORTH STAR 

'^ (Polaris) 

Fig. 606. — The Stars Will Guide You at Night. The Star at the End of 
the Handle of the Little Dipper is the North Star. An Imaginary Line 
Drawn through the Two Stars Forming the Front of the Big Dipper will 
intersect with the North Star 

corner A over to the opposite corner (Step 2), fold 
corner B over to the position shown in Step 3, fold 
corner C over to the position shown in Step 4, turn down 
the upper corner D as in Step 5, and turn down corner 
E on the opposite side (Step 6), spread the upper 
edges apart, and the cup is completed. 



33^ 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



If you wish to make a tent, you will not find the 
work difficult. Eight-ounce or ten-ounce duck should 




Fig. 607. — How to Fold a Paper Drinking-Ci-p 

be purchased for the tent material, and about thirty 
yards will be needed for 

Making an **A" Tent of the size shown upon the 
diagram (Fig. 608). Figure 609 shows a diagram of 
the completed tent as it would appear when spread out 
flat upon the ground, with dimensions for cutting the 
lengths of canvas. Strips A, B, C and D are of equal 
length, and strips E, G, J and K are of one shape and 
size, as are also the triangular pieces F, H, I, and L, 
and strips M and N. Lap each strip a full 1 inch 
over the edge of the adjoining pieces, as indicated by 
the dotted lines on the diagram, and sew each seam near 
the edges with a double row of stitching. 

After all the lengths have been cut and sewed 
together, turn back the outside edges 1 inch, as indi- 



CAMP FIRE GIRLS CAMP CRAFT 



339 



cated by dotted lines, to finish them off and reinforce 
them. 

Buy one dozen 1-inch harness rings for the ridge 
and guy-rope eyelets, set two in the canvas at the ends 
of the ridge, and one at the end of each of the side 
seams, and buttonhole-stitch them in place. The 
canvas should be reinforced with a square patch in the 
places where the eyelets are to be set in, in the ridge. 
Sew canvas loops and straps to the flaps, in the locations 




Fig. 608. —An "A" Tent 



indicated, and tie the guy-ropes through the eyelets 
provided for them. 

Figures 610 to 612 show details for 

The Ridge-pole and Uprights. These should be cut 
out of pieces 1^ inches square, which may be ripped 
out of a piece of 2-by-4. Cut the uprights about 5 feet 
10 inches long, which will allow for setting the ends 
3 inches into the ground, and cut the ridge-pole 9 feet 



340 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



5 inches long. Round the top of the ridge-pole as in 
Fig. 612. Drive a piece of ^-inch or j^-inch iron rod 
into one end of each upright (Fig. 611), and bore two 
holes, Vs inch larger than the rods, through the ridge- 
pole in the proper positions for the rods to fit in (Fig. 
612). A piece of tin bent around the ends of the pole, 
as in Fig. 612, will prevent the rods from splitting them. 




Fig. 609. — Diagram for Making an 
"A" Tent, 7 feet by 9 feet 5 
inches. 



Fig. 611 

Fig. 610. — Connection of Ridge-Pole 

with Upright 
Fig. 611. — End of Upright 
Fig. 612. — End of Ridge-Pole 



If you have difficulty in preparing the ridge-pole and 
uprights, ask your father or brother to make them for 
you. 

Fourteen Tent-stakes are required, and these should 
be cut at home to save delay in pitching the tent after 
you reach your camping ground. 







M 



A Wall Tkm, 1m<;ht i<'KKT t,\ '1'k.n 1'kki, wiiii Vlv 







A \\'ooDEN Floor aui>s to thk Comforts of thk Tent 



CAMP FIRE GIRLS CAMP CRAFT 341 

Pitch your Tent upon a level spot, close to the water 
supply, if possible, and dig a little trench around it to 
catch surface rain-water; make a couple of outlets 
from the trench so that the water will drain away. 

A Tent Ground-cloth of waterproof material should 
be laid upon the ground and lapped up around the 
sides of the tent, to prevent dampness from penetrating 
your bedding, if you make up your bed upon the 
ground. And you should also provide 

A Pine-bough Mattress upon which to spread your 
blankets. Cut a number of boughs, and lop off enough 
of the tips to form a good-sized pile of twigs. Then 
carry these twigs to your tent and, beginning at the 
proper point for the head of the bed, place a row of the 
twigs upon the ground-cloth with tips toward the back 
of the tent. Next, place another layer of the twigs 
over these, and lap the tips over the butt ends of the 
first row, and continue to lay row after row in this 
manner, which is just the way in which shingles on a 
roof are lapped, until you have reached the foot of the 
bed. The degree of softness of this mattress will 
depend upon the care with which the twigs are placed 
and their thick butt-ends are concealed. 

If nights are cold where you intend to camp, take 
along 

A Sleeping-bag. By folding over your blanket along 
the center, lengthwise, then sewing it along the side 
and across the bottom, a very satisfactory bag can 
be made. With the top of the bag pulled snugly 



342 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



around your neck, there is no possibility for the cold 
air to reach your body. 

The upper photograph of the two opposite page 340 
shows 

A Wall-tent. This is much roomier than an "A" 
tent of the same ground dimensions. The lower 
photograph shows a wall-tent with a wooden floor. 
You can have a floor built for a few dollars, and if you 
camp out for any length of time, it will be a worth- 
while investment, because of the comfort it will give 




/Fig. 616 



Fig. 613. — The Backwoodsman's Type of 
Camp Fireplace 



Fig. 614 
Fig. 614. — Stick Pot-hook 
Fig. 615. — Wire Pot-hook 
Fig. 616. — Extension Hook 



you. With a wooden floor, you will want a cot to sleep 
upon. 

The trouble experienced in 

Making An Open Fire for cooking generally arises 



CAMP FIRE GIRLS CAMP CRAFT 343 

from getting too large a fire, that is all blaze and 
smoke, instead of a small fire of hot coals. Figure 613 
shows 

A Backwoodsman's Fireplace, which is a satisfactory 
scheme for a girls' camp. Place two logs alongside of 
one another, about 6 inches apart at one end and 12 
inches apart at the other; then drive a forked branch 
into the ground at each end, and rest a pole in the forks 
from which to hang pot-hooks. The space between 
the logs is for the fireplace, and with the wide opening 
turned toward the wind a splendid draft is obtained. 

Pot-hooks may be made from forked sticks, with 
nails driven into them near the lower ends (Fig. 614), 
or out of pieces of heavy wire bent into hooks at one 
end and loops at the other end (Fig. 615), the loops being 
made large enough so that they will slide back and 




Fig. 617. — A Camp-Fire Crane 

forth on the horizontal pole. The pot-hooks may be 
made short enough to accommodate the largest pot 
you have, then lengthened to suit the small utensils 
by means of S-shaped extension hooks bent out of 
wire (Fig. 616). 

A Camp-fire Crane like that in Fig. 617 furnishes 



344 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



another simple method of suspending food over a fire. 
A sapling can be bent over for the purpose, or a branch 
can be supported as shown in the illustration. 

A Sheet-iron 
Camp Stove like 
that shown in Fig. 
618 makes camp 
cooking easier, and 
its great conven- 
ience repays one 
for taking it along 
when possible. 

The Camp Fire- 
less -cooker (Fig. 
619) makes it pos- 
sible to cook sup- 
per during the day, 
without any member of the camping party remaining in 
camp to tend a fire. To make a fireless-cooker, dig a pit 
about 2 feet square and 2 feet deep, and line the bottom 
and sides with stones (Fig. 620). Then batten together 
several boards to form a cover that will slip down into 
the hole (Figs. 619 and 621), and fasten four pieces of 
wire to it for handles (Fig. 621). 

Your pot of beans, kettle of potatoes, oatmeal, mush, 
or other food, must be started upon your camp fire. 
While it is cooking, build a good fire in your cooker-pit, 
and allow this to burn down into hot embers. Then 
quickly transfer your cooking utensil, when ready, 




Fig. 618. — A Sheet-Iron Camp Stove 




Phnfn^ Conrt, ^ii of Camp Fire Girls 

Camp Fire Girls Gathering Fagots 



CAMP FIRE GIRLS CAMP CRAFT 345 

Fig. 621 



Fig. 619 




COVER' 

Stone 

tiNIN 



Fig. 620 



Fig. 619. — Section through the Camp Fireless-Cooker 
Fig. 620. — The Cooker Pit 
Fig. 621. — The Cooker Cover 





LJ 



Fig. 622. — A Handy Camp Fig. 623. — Fig. 624. — 

Wash-Shelf A Camp Broom A Camp Shovel 



346 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 625.— A Camp 
Candle-Stick 



into the cooker, raking a hole in the embers for it to 
be set in, and fill in around and over the utensil with 
coals from your large fireplace. Fit the wooden cover 
over the top, and fill the space between this and the 
ground level with earth to make the 
insulation as perfect as possible. 

A Wash-shelf bracketed to a tree- 
trunk, to hold a wash-basin and 
soap, is a convenience not to be 
overlooked (Fig. 622). Fasten a 
mirror above the basin, and drive 
a few nails into the tree trunk for 
towels and wash-cloths. 

A Camp Broom is necessary to keep the camp tidy, 
and Fig. 623 shows how easily one may be made with a 
stick for a handle, and evergreen boughs bound to one end 
with wire or cord. Lacking boughs, use long grasses. 

A Camp Shovel will come in handy for many small 
jobs, and Fig. 624 shows how to make a small one by 
fastening a piece of tin in a slot in the end of a stick. 

Figure 625 shows how to make 

A Camp Candle-stick out of an empty tin can, by 
binding a piece of twisted green branch to the side with 
wire or cord, for a handle. Fill the can with sand or 
earth, and stick a candle into the center of this. 

Make a Mosquito Head-net like the one the girl in 
Fig. 626 is wearing, to take along with you to the 
woods. Figure 627 shows how a long strip of mosquito- 
netting is prepared with a draw-string run through a 



CAMP FIRE GIRLS CAMP CRAFT 



347 




Fig. 626. — A Mosquito Head-Net 




hem along the upper and lower edges, for the head-net. 
With the upper edge of the net brought around the rim 
of your hat, and fastened by tying the ends of the 
draw-string, and the lower edge brought down below 
your collar and tied around your neck, so that the 
netting hangs away from your face, you will appreciate 
the comforts that this home-made net furnishes. 




IiWT 



CHAPTER XXXV 
KNOTS AND HITCHES 




Any girl can tie a knot, but there are safe knots and 
unsafe knots, and if she doesn't know the correct 
method of tying, nine times out of ten she will make the 
knot incorrectly. A single misplacement of a rope-end 
will make all the difference in the world between a 
good and a bad knot. 

So many activities in which you will be engaged 
require the tying of knots, that I am showing in this 
chapter a few of the common forms of knots and 
hitches with which every girl ought to be acquainted. 
If you will take two pieces of rope and work out each 
of these as I describe its formation, you will more readily 
learn how to make them. 

A Rope Has Three Parts — the higlit or loop (L, Fig. 
628), the standing part or long end (5, Fig. 628), and 
the end, usually the short end used in forming the 
knot or hitch (E, Fig. 628). 

The Overhand Knot (Fig. 629) enters into the 
formation of so many other knots that we will begin 
with it. Make a loop (L) in a rope, pass the end (£) 
through the loop, and draw up the loop into a knot. 
That is all there is to the overhand knot. 

348 



KNOTS AND HITCHES 



349 




Fig. 628. — Parts of a Rope 




Fig. 629. — The Overhand Knot 



To join two pieces of rope with 

The Square Knot (Fig. 630), first twist the ends 
(£, E) as shown in Step 1, then form an Overhand 

Knot on top as 
END STANDING PARI shown in Step 2. 

Notice the differ- 
ence between the 
positions of the 
rope ends in this 
knot and those in 
The Granny 
Knot (Fig. 631). 
In the former the 
ends and stand- 
ing parts pass out 
on the same side 
of the loops, while 
in the Granny 
Knot they pass 
out on opposite 
sides. The Square 
Knot will hold, 
the Granny Knot 
will slip. 
The Figure Eight 
Knot (Fig. 632). 

Fig. 631. -The Granny Knot ^^j^^ ^ j^^p (^JQ ^ 

then pass the end (E) around the standing part (5), 
and out through the loop. 




Fig. 630. — The Square Knot 




35° 



HANDICRAFT 




Fig. 632. — Figure Eight Knot 





Fig. 633. — The Fisherman's Knot 

s- 




GIRLS 

The Fisher- 
man's Knot (Fig. 
633) is a secure 
knot and one that 
is easily loosed. 
In joining two 
ropes by this 
means, tie an 
Overhand Knot 
in each rope end 
{E), forming it 
over the standing 
part (5) of the 
other rope, then 
pull the knots to- 
gether. The fish- 
erman's knot can 
be loosed by pull- 
ing on the ends 

(£). 

The Bowline 

(Fig. 634) will 
neither slip nor 
draw tight. First, 
form a small loop 
in the rope (L, 
Step 1), then 
bring the end 
(£) up through 



Fig. 635. — A Sheet Bend 



KNOTS AND HITCHES 



351 



the loop, around the standing part (5), and down 
through the loop (Step 2). 

The Sheet Bend (Fig. 635) is used to join two ropes. 
Make a loop with one rope end (L, Step 1), then pass 
the end of the other rope through the loop, around the 
standing part, and out between the two standing 
parts (Step 2). 

The Blackwall Hitch (Fig. 636). This is used in 
making fast a rope to a hook. Try it on a clothes-post 





Fig, 636. — Fig. 637. — Fig. 638. — Fig. 639. — 

A Blackwall Hitch A Catspaw A Half-Hitch A Timber Hitch 



hook. Simply make a turn around the back of the 
hook with the end (£), and cross the end with the 
standing part (5). Pulling upon the standing part 
will jam the rope upon end E and prevent its slipping. 

The Catspaw (Fig. 637) provides another way of 
hitching a rope-end to a hook. Form two loops as 
shown, and throw these over the hook. 

The Half- Hitch (Fig. 638). This is a dependable 



352 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



method of attaching a rope to a timber when the pull 
on the standing part (5) will be steady. 

The Timber Hitch (Fig. 639). This is like the 
Half-Hitch, except that the end (£) is tucked in several 
times, which makes a more secure hitch than the 
Half-Hitch under conditions when the pull on the 
standing part is not steady. 





Fig. 640. — A Timber 
Hitch and Half-Hitch) 



•STEP- 1- STEP 2 

Fig. 641. — A Clove Hitch Made 
Around a Post 



The Timber Hitch and Half-Hitch (Fig. 640) is a 
combination used for fastening a rope to timbers for 
hoisting. 

The Clove Hitch (Fig. 641) is secure under every 
condition. Pass the rope around a pole or post, with 
the end (E) crossing the standing part (S), as shown 
in Step 1 ; then pass the end around a second time and 
slip it under this last turn, as shown in Step 2. When 
you make a Clove Hitch near the top of a post, you can 
form the two loops and throw them over the post, 
as indicated in Fig. 642. 



KNOTS AND HITCHES 



353 



The Marling Hitch (Fig. 643) is used for making 
fast a rope to a timber that is to be dragged or hoisted. 
It can be put on and removed quickly. 

The Sheepshank (Fig. 644) provides a quick way of 
shortening a rope without cutting it. Double the 




(inr 

Fig. 642. — A Clove- 
Hitch Thrown over a 
Post 




Fig. 643. — A Marling Hitch^ 



-(£ 



Fig. 644. — A Sheepshank 



S) Step i 



rope on itself as shown in Step 1, once, twice, or three 
times, according to how much you wish to shorten it; 
then with the end {E) take a Half-Hitch over the end 
of the doubled portion, and with the standing part (5) 
take a Half-Hitch over the other end of the doubled 
portion. 

As you practise the making of knots and hitches, 
you will think of many ways of applying them in 
every-day work and play. 




You cannot imagine how much pride you will take 
in our flag after you have made one with your own 
hands and seen it floating aloft in the breeze. There 
is no prettier emblem, and no girl can gaze upon the 
American flag an instant without feeling thrilled 
through and through, but somehow the home-made 
flag upon which you can look and say, "I made it all 
myself," means a great deal more to you than a flag 
bought at a store. 

Flag-making is within the ability of any girl who is 
handy with the needle. A medium-sized flag requires 
little more work than a small one, and for this reason I 
have shown in Fig. 645 the diagram for a flag nearly 
6 feet in length. It will be easy to alter the dimensions 
if you want a flag of different length. 

There have been no 

Standardized Proportions for the flag, until a recent 
order issued from the White House, occasioned by the 
existence of flags of many different proportions 
put an official approval upon the following: Hoist 
(width) of flag, 1; fly (length) of flag, 1.9; hoist of union, 
7/13; fly of union, .76, width of each stripe, 1/13. 

354 



A HOME-MADE AMERICAN FLAG 



355 



As the above proportions have been worked out in 
the terms of the hoist measurement, and the unit 1 
has been taken to represent the hoist measurement, 
you will see that, having determined the width of 
flag that you want, it is only necessary to multiply 
each of the given proportions by that desired width, 
in order to get the right dimensions for your flag. 



(FLY. ) 

fc-27r3iiNr=^ -5 FT. ef IN. -H 



■ct <{ <} ^3 <> a ii -a 

is ists-Ciii <i ii it 

ii i3iii3<ii3-£i ti 

•d ■£: ti tj -ii <j ii is 
is is is is is ti 1:3 is 



RED 



RED 



RED 



WHITE 



RED 



WHITE 



WHITE 



RED 



RED 



WHITE 



T 



to) 

coo 
I I. 



Fig. 645. — Diagram of Properly Proportioned American Flag 



For example, a width of 3 feet was decided upon for the 
flag illustrated, and to get the other dimensions, the 
standardized proportions were multiplied by 3. 

Red, White, and Blue Bunting can be purchased at 
any dry-goods store. The face measurement of the 
stripes will be approximately 2^ inches in the width, 
but an additional j4 inch must be allowed for turning 
the edges, which will make the material 3 inches wide. 
With every measurement before you, it will be a simple 
matter to figure out the amount of bunting required. 
Use muslin for the stars. 

Figures 646 and 647 show how 



356 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



The Seams between the Stripes are made, with the 
edges of the cloth turned in and sewed down with a 
double row of stitching, to make a neat finish on both 
sides of the flag. Cut the top and bottom red stripes 
from the selvedge of the cloth, so that their outer edge 
will not have to be finished off. 

Join the Blue Field to the stripes in the same way 
that you joined the stripes. Cut it so that there will 
be a selvedge along the top long edge. 



Fig. 648 



Fig. 647 



Fig. 646 




Fig. 648.— Canvas Bind- 
ing for Staff Edge, and 
Grommet for Attach- 
ment of Rope 





Figs. 646 and 647. — How the Edges of 
the Stripes are Turned in and Sewed with 
a Double Row of Stitching 



With the field and stripes assembled, make 
A Canvas Binding for the Staff Edge, doubling the 
canvas over the edge of the field and ends of the 
stripes, turning in its edges, and sewing with a double 
row of stitching (Fig. 648). 



A HOME-MADE AMERICAN FLAG 



357 



Buy a pair of large iron washers at the hardware 
store for 

Grommets, and sew these in holes cut through the 

Fig. 649 Fig. 650 

A A 






Fig. 652 Fig. 651 

Figs. 649 to 651. — How to Cut the Five- Pointed Stars^ 
Fig. 652. — How to Stitch the Stars to the Field 

doubled binding edge, one at each corner, to tie ropes 
to for fastening the flag to a pole. 

Cutting the Stars, and sewing them neatly on to the 



3S8 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

field, requires care and Q) 

patience. For the forty-eight ^-— ; 

stars needed you must cut "^"^>Vs^ C 

twice as many, because they STAY5 -^^^/^^ 

must be fastened upon both 

sides of the field. 

To make FLAG'^ 

A Pattern for the Five-pointed Stars, 
first describe a circle 4 inches in diameter 
upon a piece of cardboard, and divide the 
circumference into five equal parts (Fig. 649) ; 
then connect the five division points with 
straight lines (Fig. 650), cut out the piece 
(Fig. 651), and carefully mark out the ninety- 
six stars required, upon muslin, using the 
cardboard star to mark around. Locate the 
centers for the stars by ruling lines horizon- 
tally and vertically across the field, so the 
positions will be the same as shown in Fig. 
645. Then, in 

Sewing the Stars in Place, stitch down the 
edges, and stitch around the centers, as in- 
dicated in Fig. 652. 

A round rug-pole, nicely painted, with a brass 
curtain-pole ball screwed into one end, makes 

The [Flag-pole shown in Fig. 653. Screw 
screw-eyes into the pole at A and atB, through ^ 
which to run the ropes for hoisting the flag, 
and screw a third screw-eye at 



r 



Fig. 653. — How to Rig up 
a Rug-Pole for a Flag-Pole 



A HOME-MADE AMERICAN FLAG 



359 




Fig. 654. — Detail of Window-Sill Connection 
for End of Flag-Pole. 




Fig. 655. — How to Support the Flag from the Window-Sill 



360 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

C to attach the supporting stays to, and a fourth 
at D for 

Fastening the Pole to a Window - sill or other 
ledge. Screw-eye D should be large, and two 
other screw -eyes of Hhe same size (£, Fig. 654) 
should be screwed into the window-sill, and a peg(F) 
should be cut to slip through the screw-eyes. By 
placing screw-eye D between screw-eyes E, and slipping 
peg F through all three, the end of the pole will be 
held securely. But before the pole-end is pinned in place, 

The Stays shown in Fig. 655 must be tied to screw- 
eye C (Fig. 653) and to screw-eyes screwed into the 
sides of the window, as shown in Fig. 655, to carry the 
weight of the pole. Use clothes-line for the stays. 




What girl does not like to play ''store"? You not 
only can play "store" with a lemonade stand, but can 
earn spending-money selling the ice-cold lemonade; 
and you will find it more fun selling something real to 
real customers, than just "pretending." 

On a warm summer day, with prospects in view of a 
thriving business in lemonade, it is foolish to waste 
half of the morning in planning and building an elab- 
orate counter from which to dispense this drink with 
the guaranteed cooling qualities. But, on the other 
hand, it is the best kind of business judgment to make 
a counter that will have a neat appearance and be so 
inviting to passers-by that they will purchase a drink 
without hesitation. 

An Attractive Lemonade-stand can be built in as 
little time as any other kind, as I am about to show you. 
Two chairs with straight backs, two grocery boxes of 
equal size, and an umbrella, are the principal require- 
ments for the little stand shown in Fig. 656. 

It does not matter much in what state of repair the 
chairs are; they can be made to serve your purpose. 
The seats may be broken through; that makes no 
difference because they are to be concealed by the boxes 

361 



362 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 656. -An Attractive Lemonade-Stand Can be Built as quickly 

other kind 



as any 



PLAY-STORES 



363 



used for the counter-top. If a leg Is broken, as is often 
the case with a discarded chair, you can easily bind a 
stick to that corner of the chair to prop It up, while, 
If a back is broken, it can be mended well enough by 
binding a long stick up and down, or across it. 

To Build the Stand, place the chairs back to back, 
as shown in Fig. 657, and bind together thepairsof legs, 




Fig. 657. — Two Chairs from the Foundation 
for the Lemonade-Stand. 

also the backs, in several places with wrapping-twine. 
Then stand the grocery-boxes on their sides on the 
chair seats, so that their open tops will come at the back 
of the counter, and bind them to the chair by passing 



364 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

a rope around their ends, over their tops, and down 
underneath the chair seats, tying them In a secure knot. 

The Umbrella Top Is fastened between the chair 
backs as shown In Fig. 658, with the end of the handle 
extending down to about the center of the backs, and 
bound with wrapplng-twine or rope passed around It 
in the criss-cross fashion Indicated In Fig. 658. Tie 
in two places as shown, and pull the twine taut so that 
the handle will be held securely. 

Figure 656 suggests how to 

Decorate the Umbrella Top with a small flag bound 
to the Iron ferrule at the end of the umbrella handle, 
and with smaller flags tied to the ends of the umbrella 
ribs. 

Cover the Counter Top with a piece of oilcloth, white 
cloth, or shelf-paper, and secure cloth or paper with 
which to conceal the front of the counter boxes and the 
chair legs, and fasten It to hang down to the ground 
as shown in Fig. 656. A piece of cardboard, with 
"Ice-Cold Lemonade" lettered upon It, may be prepared 
to conceal the space between the chair backs, as shown 
in the illustration. 

Keep your Lemonade- Stand Neat. To do so, be 
careful not to allow spilt lemonade to remain upon the 
counter top. If you use an oilcloth covering, it will 
be a simple matter to keep a clean, dry counter. If you 
have a cloth or paper covered counter, place extra 
pieces of paper or cloth beneath the tumblers, and 
change these as often as they become stained. 



PLAY-STORES 365 

A very good counter for 

A Play Store may be made in the simple manner 
shown in Figs. 659 and 660. Chairs are best for the end 
supports of the counter, but if you can find two grocery- 
boxes about 30 inches high, these will do. The illus- 
trations show chair supports, because these will prob- 
ably be easiest to get. As the chair seats will not be 




Fig. 658, — How the Umbrella Top is Supported on the Chair Backs 

high enough to rest the counter board upon, you must 
place a small box upon each seat to make it of the 
right height. 

If you cannot find 



366 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



A Board for the Counter-top, probably you can 
borrow one of the extra dining-table boards, or the 
ironing-board. Another board of equal length to that 
used for the top, placed across the chair seats, beneath 
the small boxes, will make a good shelf, and by turning 
the small boxes so their open ends will be towards the 




'Fig. 659. — Play Store-Keeping is Great Fun for a Summer's Day 



back of the counter, and placing short pieces of board 
across the chair rounds, as shown in Fig. 660, you will 
have two cupboards of three shelves each in which to 
keep stock. 

The Canopy above the counter is really not necessary, 
but I think that every girl will want one, because it 
makes the store much neater. For the corner supports, 



PLAY-STORES 



367 



you may use broom-handles, short curtain-poles, and 
any other sticks that you can find. Bind them to the 
chair back with string. 

For the Canopy Covering get a large enough piece of 
cloth to extend over the four corner uprights, and hang 




Fig. 660. — The Counter and the Canopy Framework are Supported on Chairs 



down across the front and ends to form a band 8 or 10 
inches wide. Tack the cloth to the corner uprights. 

Enclose the Front and Ends of the counter with 
cloth or heavy wrapping-paper. 

Of course, your store must have 

A Set of Scale-balances. Figure 661 shows a set that 



368 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



is very easily made. The base is a large spool, and 
into the center hole of this spool a rubber- tipped pencil 
is slipped for 
the center sup- 

4- /T— £/:'t\ Fig. 663. — Cut Two 
port (Fig. 662). strips like this for the 
Cut the top cross Balance Beam 

strips from the 
cover of a card- 
board box, mak- 
ing them 10 
inches long (Fig. 
663). Cut the 
ends and center 
as shown and 
pierce a pin-hole 




Fig. 664. — Detail of 
Weighing Tray 




-CORK 




Fig. 662. — Detail of 
Base and Center Sup- 
port 



Fig. 661. — Scale- Balances 
for the Play Store 

through the center. Figure 662 shows how the strips 
are fastened each side of the eraser of the pencil, by 



PLAY-STORES 369 

means of a pin pushed through them and through the 
eraser; also, how a small cork is pushed on to the point 
of the pin, so there will be no danger of its injuring you. 

The Weighing Trays are made of pill-box covers of 
equal size. Pierce four holes through the rim of 
each cover, and, after running a thread through each 
hole, bring the upper ends together, knot them 3 inches 
above the tray, and form a loop 2 inches above the 
knot to slip over the notched ends of the top crosspieces. 

Weights for the scales may be made of the small 
collar-buttons returned in laundered shirts by the 
laundry, but lacking these, almost any kind of buttons 
will do. 





CHAPTER XXXVIII 

PLAY-HOUSES 



-'■- *"„".''?~i 



wv-t ""■ ""^ars? -.v""-^/..' ■'■"•'>'''* ^/, 




Every girl cannot own a play-house with boarded 
sides, shingled roof, windows, and a door hung on 
hinges, perhaps — to build one would be too great a 
task for the average girl, though I have known of its 
being done, but she may have a pretty little play 
tent, tepee, or brush hut, that will do nearly as well to 
play housekeeping in, by carrying out the ideas which 
are described in this chapter. 

The Umbrella Play-tent, shown in Fig. 665 requires 
a large umbrella for the top. This makes a pleasing 
dome-shaped roof which gives the tent a touch of 
elegance. It will not injure an umbrella in the least 
to use it for the tent; still, if you can find an old one 
that is not badly broken, it may be well to take it, 
because there might be such a thing as some one's 
piercing it with a pointed stick, or breaking it in some 
other way; then, too, by using an umbrella that has 
been discarded, it will not be necessary to take down the 
tent on rainy days when every available umbrella is 
needed. A chair is required to support the umbrella 
handle, several sheets or old draperies are necessary for 
the wall covering, and some clothes-line or heavy 
wrapping-twine will be needed for braces. 

370 



PLAY-HOUSES 



371 



The tent may be placed in the back yard, on the 
porch, or in the play room. The first thing to do is to 

Fasten the Umbrella-handle to the Chair-back, by 
strapping it to the cross bars with heavy twine in the 
manner illustrated in Fig. 666. Tie the handle securely 
so that it will hold the umbrella perfectly upright. 







.»<«ll- 



FiG. 665. — An Umbrella Play-Tent 

The Twine Braces for the walls are fastened to the 
tips of the umbrella ribs, and the best way to attach 
them is by using a needle and thread and sewing each 
to the little eye in a tip. The lower ends of the 



372 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

braces should be tied to stakes driven into the ground, 
if the tent is placed in the yard, or to carpet-tacks, 
thumb-tacks, or wall push-pins, driven into the floor, 
if the tent is placed upon a porch or in a playroom. 




Fig. 666. — How the Umbrella is Supported on a Chair-Back 

To make the tent wider at its bottom than at Its 
top, the braces should slant away from the umbrella 
as shown in the illustration. Twenty inches is a 
sufficient distance for the braces to slant. To get the 
right position for the stakes or tacks, first allow the 



PLAY-HOUSES 



373 



braces to hang straight to the ground, or floor; then 
measure 20 inches away from the points where the 
braces touch the ground or floor. 

The Cloth Covering of the sides of the tent may be 
pinned to the edge of the umbrella, and to the braces. 
Figure 665 shows how the covering opens on one side, 
and how one brace is omitted, to provide for the 
doorway. 

Make a Cupboard out of the lower portion of the 
chair support, by enclosing the legs on three sides 







Fig. 667. — How the Chair Legs may be Enclosed to Form a Cupboard 



with cloth, as shown in Fig. 667, and placing boards 
across the chair-rounds for shelves. This will be an 
excellent cupboard to keep dishes in, and the chair 
seat will make a good table top. 



374 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



The Tepees shown in Fig. 668 will afford lots of fun 
when your friends come to play with you. Each can 
have a tepee of her own, and with them grouped as in 
the illustration you will have a picturesque Indian 
encampment. The tepees are made entirely of news- 
papers. 



Fig. 670 



en 






j= =& aa 



HI 




Fig. 672 




Fig. 669 Fig. 671 

Figs. 669 and 670. — The Paper Tube Poles. Figs. 671 and 672. — 

The Paper Tube Sticks. 

The Tepee Framework consists of six poles built up 
of newspaper. Figures 669 and 670 show how to 
prepare 

The Paper Poles. Lap and paste together the 
edges of two sheets of newspaper as shown in Fig. 669, 
then cover these sheets with a coat of paste, lay two 
other sheets of newspaper exactly over them, and 
coat them with paste. Then, starting at one edge, 
turn the paper upon itself from end to end, and roll 
it up into a tube, or pole. The tubes will flatten on 
account of being soaked with paste, but by rolling 
them back and forth it will be easy to round out these 




Fig. 608.— a Play Indian Village with Newspaper Tepees 
AND Kettle Tkipod. 



PLAY-HOUSES 



375 



flattened portions. Place the tube poles upon a flat 
surface to dry, so that they will remain straight and 
not become bow-shaped. Do not attempt to use any of 
them until they are thoroughly dry, through and 
through- 

These poles are too thick at their ends for the tepee 
framework, and smaller tubes, made of several thick- 
nesses of newspaper, of single-sheet width, as shown in 
Figs. 671 and 672, should be stuck in the upper end 
of the long tubes. Figure 668 shows how the ends of 
the small tubes are crossed. Tie them together, and 
spread the lower end of the poles; then either pin or 
paste newspapers around the poles for a covering. 

Make a doorway in one side, as shown in Fig. 668, 
and with paint and a brush ornament the covering 
Indian fashion. 

A Kettle Tripod for your Indian encampment, like 
the one in Fig. 668, is formed by fastening together 
three paper poles in the same manner that the tepee 
framework is put together, and 

The Kettle is made of paper as shown in Figs. 673 
to 675. The sides of the kettle are made of two sheets 
of newspaper folded in half, as shown in the diagram 
(Fig. 673), with the lower edge slashed for a distance 
of 2 inches; and the bottom is made of two circular 
pieces of cardboard 10 inches in diameter (Fig. 673). 
Bend up the pieces between the slashes of the sides, 
to form flaps, then bend the sides around one of the 
bottom pieces, lap and paste them together, and paste 



376 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Fig. 674 




Fig. 673 

Fig. 673. — Diagram of the Kettle Sides and Bottom Pieces 
Fig. 674. — Paste the Side Flaps to the Bottom Like This 
Fig. 675. — The Wire Handle and Paper-and-String Chain 



the flaps to the cardboard (Fig. 674). Paste the second 
piece over the under side of the flaps, to conceal them. 

Make the handle of a piece of wire, bending the ends 
as shown in Fig. 675, so that they will hook into holes 
punched in the sides of the kettle. 

Suspend the kettle from its tripod by means of a 
paper chain (Fig. 668). Probably you have made 
similar paper chains, but this one must be reinforced 
by threading the paper links on. to a piece of cord, as 
shown in Fig. 675, because the chain in itself would 
not be stiff enough to support the weight of the kettle. 
Tie one end of the cord to the kettle handle, and the 
other end to the top of the tripod. 



PLAY-HOUSES 377 

The Make-believe Camp Fire is built of small paper 
tubes. 

There are many 

Other Things Which Can Be Built with Paper Tubes, 

including a log-cabin (described in "The Handy Boy"), 
forts, summer-houses, rail-fences, and doll swings; and 
the tubes may be set on end for telegraph-poles for a 
play telegraph system, or for trees for a play forest. 

After the poles have been prepared, they will last 
indefinitely, because they are easily repaired if broken, 
by pasting bands of paper around the broken places. 

The loosely constructed walls and roof of 

The Brush Hut in Fig. 676 will permit breezes to 
pass through when any are astir, yet will keep out 
the sun's rays. A hut like this will be the coolest 
place you can have to play in on warm summer days. 
You will have no difficulty in putting up the pole 
framework; still, if brother wants to help, let him. 

Figure 677 shows 

The Framework, To make this strong it is best to 
support one side on a fence top. You will need poles 
for two corners, a couple of short pieces to nail to the 
fence to increase its height, if the fence is a low one, 
five or six poles for the roof, and sticks for the sides of 
the doorway and to place around the base of the 
framework. An old mop-handle, rake and hoe-handles, 
broom-handles, clothes-poles, a rug-pole, curtain-poles, 
worn-out shade-rollers, any of these will do for the 
framework. Broom-handles and other short pieces 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 676. — A Brush Hut 

can be spliced end to end, by binding stick splints to 
opposite sides with string (Fig. 679). 

In addition to the poles, you will need a barrel hoop 
for the framework of each window opening, and another 
for the arched top of the doorway. Your grocer will 



PLAY-HOUSES 



379 




.,iL-']y 



Fig. 677. — The Completed Framework of the Brush Hut 



probably have a broken barrel from which he will 
gladly give you the hoops Then you will also need 
nails for fastening together the framework, and a ball 
of heavy wrapping-twine for the wall and roof strings. 



38o 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Figure 678 shows how 

To Begin the Framework, by nailing uprights A to 
the fence top, for two corners of the hut, and how the 
framework of each end is completed by erecting a corner 
pole B opposite upright A, and fastening a roof- pole 
C across A and B Make pole B enough lower than 
the top of upright A to provide for a sloping roof. 
When the end frames have been erected, connect 
the tops with three poles placed across roof-poles C, 
as shown in Fig. 677. These poles can be tied in place. 

Figure 681 shows how to make 

The Door-frame by driving sticks D into the ground 
each side of the opening, and binding the ends of an 
opened barrel-hoop to the tops with string. 




Fig. 678. — Detail of End Frame of Framework 



PLAY-HOUSES 



381 



Fig. 680 




Fig. 679. — Splice Together Short 
Sticks Like This to MakeLongSticks 
Fig. 680. — The Hoop Window- 
Frame 



Fig. 681. — Detail of Door-Frame 



The hoops for 

The Window-frames are held in position by twine 
(Fig. 678). First tie four strings to each hoop, spacing 
these equidistant from one another (Fig. 680), then 
tie the string ends to the framework in the right places 
to bring the hoop in the center. 

Figure 677 shows how 

The Framework Strings are tied. The distance 
between the strings should not be greater than 9 inches. 
Tie the lower end of the strings to the sticks at the 
base of the framework. Run the roof strings both 
from end to end, and from side to side. 

The Covering Material must be woven in and out 



382 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 

around the strings, as shown in Fig. 681. Underbrush 
from the woods, or weeds and long grasses from a 
vacant lot, or all three, may be used. You will need 
a large quantity of the material, but you need not 
gather it all at once. Get several armfuls, and weave 
it in place, then go after more. Start 

The Weaving at the ground, and work up. When 
you come to corners, and to door and window openings, 
either loop the material around the poles, or tie the 
ends. 

The Roof Covering. If the roof poles have been 
crossed and allowed to project, as shown in Fig. 677, 
strings may be tied to their ends and the roof covering 
brought out over the strings, to make a roof projection. 

Stuff All Openings with grass and leaves, if you 
find any in the walls and roof after the covering has 
been put on. Then your brush hut will be complete, 
ready to play in. 




More toys than you would imagine can be made 
of the little berry-boxes and baskets in which fruit is 
packed for the market, and the thin wood is so easily 
cut and fastened that the work is not much different 
from that connected with making things of cardboard. 
A sharp knife and a pair of scissors are needed for 
cutting, and a needle and thread, or glue, for fastening 
together the parts. 

The Cradle shown in Fig. 682, and in detail in 
Fig. 687 is made of a berry-box with a basket hood. 
Open the side of the box that has the lapped ends, and 
fold down and out the doubled pieces (Fig. 688) . Then 
set the box inside of the basket, with the opened side 
pieces against the basket sides, and sew securely to 
the basket. 

Figure 689 shows the rockers (A) and the upright 
supports for attaching them (B). Make the rockers 
2 inches longer than the width of the cradle, and cut 
a slot in the lower end of uprights B just wide enough 
to receive their ends. Figure 687 shows how the 
uprights should be stitched to the sides of the cradle, 
and how the rockers should be held in the slots by 

383 



384 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



loops of thread fastened to the upright ends and passed 
around the rocker ends. 

The Table shown in Fig. 683 has a top made of a 
square piece of cigar-box wood, and its base is made of 




Fig. 688 
Figs. 687 to 689. — Details of Cradle Shown in Fig. 682 




i^^^. 



Fig. 683. -A Table 




Fig. 686.— a Swinging Seat 




Fig. 682.— a Cradle 



BERRY-BOX AND BASKET TOYS 385 

two pieces, each slotted along the center, one-half of 
its length, so that the two will fit together, with their 
slots slipped over the portions not slotted. Glue the 
top to the top edges of the base. 

The Chair in Fig. 684 is made from a square berry- 
box. The seat is one side of the box, the legs are the 
adjoining sides, and the back is the box bottom, bent 
out and up. As the seat would be too deep, and the 
legs too long, if the box sides were left their natural 
size, these must be cut down to the proportions shown 
in the photograph. 

The Dresser shown in Fig. 685 is made exactly as 
the chair in Fig. 684 is made. Then a strip with ends 
bent down is fitted between the side pieces, for a shelf, 
and a strip is fastened around the top and sides of the 
back piece, for a mirror-frame. The mirror is made of 
a piece of tin-foil cut to fit the frame. Cover the dresser 
top with a piece of lace, for a scarf, and make a pin- 
cushion to stand upon it. 

The Swinging Seat illustrated in Fig. 686 is made 
from the bottom and two ends of a square pint berry- 
box, with the ends tapered off with a knife, and a strong 
linen thread knotted on the end and run through holes 
pierced in four places, for hanging up the seat. 

Figure 690 shows 

A Sofa made of a long-shaped quart-size berry-box. 
All that you have to do to this box is remove one side 
down to the bottom, then carefully cut away the end 
as shown, to form arms. 



386 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Another Style of Chair is shown in Fig. 691. This is 
made of two adjoining sides of a pint-size box, one of 
which forms the back, and the other, scored and folded, 




Fig, 690. — A Sofa 




Fig. 691. — a Chair 



Fig. 692. — A Footstool 



forms the seat and front legs; the back legs are made 
of a piece of wood glued or sewed to the chair back. 

The Footstool shown in Fig. 692 is made of one side 
of a pint berry-box. It is only necessary to score the 



BERRY-BOX AND BASKET TOYS 



387 



piece yi inch from each end, and bend down the ends 
for legs. 

The Rocker in Fig. 693 makes a chair of pleasing 
design. Remove one side of a box, and about one-third 
of each of the adjoining sides and the bottom, and use 
the remainder of the box for the seat, back, and arms 
of the chair. By selecting the doubled sides of the box 
for cutting, the upper parts of the rockers (Fig. 694) 
can be slipped up and fastened between the doubled 
pieces (Fig. 693). Cut the rockers by the pattern of 
Fig. 694, making them long enough to project about 
1 inch both in front and back of the seat. 




Fig. 693. — A Rocker Fig. 694. — Detail of Rocker 



388 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



Another Style of Table is shown in Fig. 695. This is 
made of a quart-size berry-box, with one-half of the 
height of its sides removed all around, in one piece, and 
the piece thus removed fastened edgewise inside of the 
box for a base. 




Fig. 695. — Another Table 




Fig. 696. — A Wagon 



Figure 696 shows 



BERRY-BOX AND BASKET TOYS 



389 



A Wagon made of a berry-basket. Get 
a pair of large ribbon spools for wheels 
(Fig. 697), and cut two sticks to the dia- 
meter of a pencil for axles, and a pair of 
uprights (A, Fig. 697) for connecting the 
axles to the basket. Make holes near 
the ends of the uprights just large enough 
for the axles to fit in, cutting very care- 
fully in order not to split the wood. 
Stitch the uprights to the basket sides. 

The wagon can be converted into 

A Doll Carriage by fastening a second 
basket over one end of the wagon basket, 
for a hood, as the hood of the cradle in 
Fig. 687 was put on. Add a handle to 
the back to complete the carriage. 

A Swing for your jointed doll is easily 
made. For the swing shown in Fig. 698 
you will need four sticks about 24 inches 
long for the supports, a piece 10 inches 
long for the top crosspiece, a pint-size 
fruit-box — the kind cherries are packed 
in — for the seat, and some string for 
suspending the seat. 

If you can get four straight pieces of 
tree branches, they will do nicely for the 
supports. Drive the lower ends of each 
pair into the ground, 8 inches apart, bend 
the tops over to lap as shown, and bind fig. 697.— Wheels 




39° 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 698. — A Swing 



together with string. Place the supports 9 inches 
apart, directly opposite one another. Set the top 
crosspiece in the crotches formed by the crossed ends 
and bind in place with string. 



BERRY-BOX AND BASKET TOYS 



391 



Figures 699 and 700 show how the cherry-box is 
converted into 

The Swing Seat. SHp the top edge of one side of the 
box from the tin binding by which the box is held 
together (Fig. 699), fold the side over on to the inside 
of the box-bottom, and glue or sew it to the bottom 




Fig. 699 Fig. 700 

Figs. 699 and 700. — Details of the Swing Seat 

(Fig. 700). Tie suspension threads to the corners of 
the box, as shown in Fig. 700, bring these together and 
tie them 2 inches above the top of the box; then run 
the single thread from the point of intersection up to 
the top crosspiece on the supports. 




Flies breed only in filth, stable refuse, and decayed 
vegetable and animal matter; therefore a general 
clean-up of the neighborhood, the removal of all breed- 
ing material, and the covering of garbage-cans is the 
first important thing to urge, in a fly-exterminating 
campaign. You girls can be of great help. With this 
work well in hand, a systematic swatting and trapping 
warfare must be waged, and here again you can be of 
great assistance. You can make fly-traps and set 
them in and around your home. 

Figure 701 shows 

An Excellent Trap that is easily built. The com- 
pleted framework of 

The Outer Cage is shown in Fig. 702, and patterns 
for its parts are shown in Figs. 703 to 706. First 
prepare the bottom frame (Fig. 703). Cut sticks 
A and B to the dimensions shown in Fig. 704, and lap 
the ends of B so there will be a notch 1 inch square at 
each corner to receive uprights D. Place the frame 
upon a board, and mark out around it for the outline 
of top piece C (Fig. 706) ; then cut out this piece, and 
trim it up to the exact shape of the bottom frame. 

392 



A FLY-TRAP 393 

Uprights D must be of the right width and thickness 
to fit in the notches in the top board and bottom frame. 
Nail them in place so their ends will project y^ inch. 



Fig. 701. — a Practical Fly-Trap That Is Easily Built 

With the framework completed, enclose the sides 
with screen wire cut to the right width to extend from 
top to bottom. Tack this on with small fiat-head 
tacks. 

The Inner Conical Cage, shown in Fig. 707, is built 
upon a base framework made of two pairs of sticks 
(E and F, Fig. 708). The frame must be built to fit 



394 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 




Fig. 703 



Fig. 702. — The Completed Framework of the Fly-Trap 
Figs. 703 to 706. — Details of Framework 



inside of the bottom frame of the outer cage. The 
sticks may be yi inch thick and 1 inch wide. 

Figure 709 shows the pattern for cutting the screen- 
wire covering. Draw out this pattern full-size upon 



A FLY-TRAP 



395 



heavy paper, then cut it out, lay it upon a piece of 
screen-wire, and cut the wire of the exact shape and 
size. Fold the wire where indicated on the pattern 
by white lines, then tack the lower edge to the frame 



Fig. 708. — Base 
Framework for 
Inner Cage 




Fig. 707. — The Inner 
Cage 



Fig. 709. — Pattern for Cutting Screen 
Wire for the Inner Cage 



Strips E and F, and wire together the overlapping side 
edges by weaving a strand of wire in and out through 
the meshes. 

Figure 710 shows how to 

Fit the Inner Cage Inside the Outer Cage. With it 
in place, cut four tin or wooden buttons (G, Fig. 712), 



396 



HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS 



and tack these to the pieces A and B, so that when turned 
in the position shown in Fig. 710 they will lock in the 
inner cage, and when given a one-half turn they will 
release it. 
The base board H (Fig. 710) is provided for 
A Bait Tray. Cut it 1 inch longer and 1 inch wider 




' ^K 



Fig. 711 



Fig. 710 



Fig. 710. — How the Inner Cage Fits into the Outer Cage 

Fig. 711. — How the Outer Cage is Hinged to a Base 

Fig. 712. — Lock the Inner Cage with Four Tin Bu.ttons Like This 

than the base of the outer cage, and hinge it to the 
ends of two of the uprights D with pieces of leather 
(/, Fig. 711). Figure 710 shows how to provide for 
fastening the base to the cage by screv/ing a screw-eye 
into the bottom frame and another into the base (7), 
in the right positions so a peg (K) can be pushed 
through them. A parcel-handle makes a good trap- 
handle. 



A FLY-TRAP 397 

Bait the Trap with meat, sweets, or pieces of banana, 
then watch for results. After feeding, the flies will 
rise in the conical cage, seeking the light, and will pass 
through the small top opening into the outer cage, 
where they will be trapped. And once in, there is 
little chance of their escaping. Immerse the trap in 
hot water to kill the trapped flies. 



THE END. 



INDEX 



Aeroplane for table decoration, 240 
Airship ornament for Christmas tree, 

257- 

American Bird House League, 264, 

American flag, a home-made, 354; 
standardized proportions, 354; bunt- 
ing for, 355; seams between stripes, 
356; joining the blue field, 356; a 
canvas binding for the staff edge, 
356; grommets, 357; cutting the 
stars, 357; pattern for five-pointed 
stars, 358; sewing the stars in place, 
358; the flag-pole, 358; fastening the 
pole to a window-sill, 358; the stays, 
360. 

Apartment, a hat-box doll (see Doll 
Apartment) . 

Ark, a bird, 273; a wall bracket bird, 274. 

Arm-chair, cardboard box, 180. 

"A" tent, to make an, 338; material for, 
338; the ridge-pole and uprights, 339; 
the tent-stakes, 340; pitching, 341; 
ground-cloth for, 341. 

Automobile whirUgig, 189. 

B 

Bags for knapsack, duffle-, 334. 
Bait for fly-trap, 397; tray for, 396. 
Ball ornament for Christmas tree,rubber 

255- 

Barrel-hoop bower. 288. 

Base for Christmas tree, 249; materials 
required for, 249; pocket for end of 
tree, 250; covering for, 251. 



Basket, a waste-, 92. 

Basket made of orange, 242. 

Basket making, 105; to prepare grass 
rope for, 105; to begin, 106; making 
the handle, 107; other forms 108; 
forked handle, 108; raffia, 109; 
handles, no; hat-braid and reed, 
no; paper- rope, in; cardboard box 
foundations, in; paper-rope strands, 
in; to prepare paper- rope strands, 
in; paper- rope serving- tray, 113; 
attaching the paper-rope covering, 
113; inside covering, 114; wire han- 
dles, 114; a paper-rope jewel-box, 
114; a paper- rope basket, 115; a dif- 
ferent handle, 115; a hanging-basket, 
115; a woven paper-rope basket, 115; 
shellacking paper- rope baskets, 118. 

Baskets and flower-boxes, hanging-, 294; 
a tin-funnel basket, 294; a colander 
basket, 294; a rustic basket, 296; an 
egg-basket flower-basket, 299; a 
flower-pot basket, 299; a two-pot 
basket, 300; a box basket, 301; an- 
other box basket, 302; another rustic 
basket, 302; a window flower-box, 
304; a window or porch balustrade 
box, 305; a corner box, 306; a plant- 
box, 307; painting, 308. 

Basket for candy dainties 245; an 
eight-corner basket, 245; a heart- 
shaped basket, 247; a basket with 
pinched corners, 247. 

Basket shield for transplantings, 285. 

Baskets, May, 309; a cornucopia bas- 
ket, 309; a basket made of a writing- 



399 



400 



INDEX 



paper box, 310; a hooded basket, 
311; a cylindrical holder, 312; filling, 

313- 

Basket toys, berry- (see Berry basket 
Toys). 

Bath, a bird, 277. 

Bed, a cardboard box, doll , 179. 

Bed, a four-poster doll, 177. 

Bedroom, a doll apartment, 173; walls, 
175; picture-molding for, 175; pic- 
tures for, 176; curtains for, 176; 
table for, 176. 

Bench, a kitchen-table work-, 11; a 
packing-box, 14; a, with iron vice, 15. 

Bench-stop, 12. 

Bench vise, an impro\nsed, 11; an iron, 
17- 

Berry-box and basket toys, 383 ; a cradle 
383; a table, 384; a chair, 385; a 
dresser, 385; a swinging seat, 385; a 
sofa, 385; another style of chair, 386; 
a footstool, 386; a rocker, 387; an- 
other style of table, 388; a wagon, 
389; a doU carriage, 389; a swing,389. 

Bight of a rope, 348. 

Bird-house for Japanese garden, 230. 

Bird-houses, home-made, 263; bird- 
house campaigns, 263; American 
Bird House League, 264; houses that 
attract tenants, 264; right dimen- 
sions, 265 ; a chart of correct dimen- 
sions, 266; materials for, 267; a bird 
temple, 267; a box bird-house, 26S; 
another box bird-house, 269; a bird- 
tower, 270; a tin can bird- tower, 2 70; 
a bird-castle, 271; a bird ark, 273; a 
wall bracket bird ark, 274; a house 
and swing, 274; a hanging-house, 275; 
a shelter, 275; a bird bath, 277; 
shady places for can houses, 278; 
preventing drafts, 278; ventilation, 
278; water-tight roofs, 278; finishing, 
278; protection, 278. 

Bird-house tenant record, 320. 



Blacking case, a shoe-, 94. 

Blackwall hitch, 351. 

Blazing a trail, 335. 

Blind-naiUng, 7. 

Blotter, a spool desk, 40. 

Blotter-pad, 47. 

Blouse for Jack Pumpkinhead, 210. 

Blue Birds, 330 (see Camp Fire Girls). 

Bolster-roll, 97. 

Book-ends, 67. 

Book-jackets, 162; paper, 163; cloth, 

164; lettering titles on, 165; canvas, 

166. 
Book-marker, 49; a corner, 50. 
Book-shelves, 95. 
Booth for fair, 222; to construct, ^22; 

counter for, 223; canopy framework 

for, 225; covering framework of, 

226; cardboard lanterns for, 226; 

covering for counter of, 226. 
Booth for home-made telephone, 207. 
Bottle-rack, 28. 
Bower, an umbrella, 285; a barrel-hoop, 

288. 
Bowl, decorating a, 143 ; a, with feet, 145 . 
Bowl, home-made pottery, 129; three 

other shapes, 1 29. 
Bowline knot, 350. 
Box, a shirt-waist, 92. 
Box, fancywork-, 81; fancj^ork-, with 

legs, 83 ; a more elaborate, 85. 
Box bird-house, 268; another, 269. 
Boses, flower- (see Flower Boxes). 
Box hanging-basket, 301 ; another, 302. 
Box toys, berry- (see Beny-boxToys). 
Bracelet, a corn-starch, 121. 
Bridge for Japanese garden, 229. 
Broom, a camp, 346. 
Brush-and -comb tray, 74. 
Bud-holder, to decorate a, 135. 
Buffet, a doll apartment, 174. 
Bunting for an American flag, 355. 
Burnishing gold, 140. 
Buzz-saw whirUgig, 189. 



INDEX 



401 



Cabin for table decoration, 233; the 
walls, 233; door and window open- 
ings, 234; to lay up theVall logs, 234; 
the stick chimney, 235; the roof, 236; 
a foiondation, 236. 

Cabinet, a recipe, 62; indexed guide- 
cards for, 64. 

Cabinet, a tool-, 18; 

Cages for a fly-trap, 392, 393. 

Caldron, a witch's 213. 

Calendar, a desk, 58; a perpetual, 60; 
another form of, 62. 

Calendar, a football, 45. 

Calendar, a spool desk, 38. 

Camp fire, a make-believe, 377. 

Camp Fire Girls Camp Craft, 327; 
Camp Fire Girls organization, 327; 
law of the Council Fire, 327; watch- 
word, 327; how to become a Camp 
Fire Girl, 327; Wood Gatherer, 328; 
Fire Maker, 328; seven crafts of 
camp fire, 329; Torch Bearer; 329; 
Blue Birds, 330; Guardian of the 
Fire, 330; hiking and camping, 330; 
clothing, 331 ; care of feet, 331 ; home 
made knapsack, 332; duffle-bags, 
334; knife-sheaths, 334; packing the 
knapsack, 334; losing one's way, 334; 
blazing a trail, 335; wrist watch as a 
compass, 336; stars as guides, 336; 
folding a paper cup, 337; making an 
''A" tent, 338; ridge-pole and up- 
rights 339; tent-stakes, 340; drain- 
age of rain water, 341; tent ground 
cloth, 341 ; pine-bough mattress, 341 ; 
sleeping-bag, 341; wall-tent, 342; 
open fire, 342; backwoodsman's fire- 
place, 343 ; pot-hooks, 343 ; camp-fire 
crane, 343; sheet-iron camp stove, 
344; camp fireless-cooker, 344; wash- 
shelf, 346; camp broom, 346; camp 
shovel, 346; camp candle- stick, 346; 
mosquito head-net, 346. 

Candle-holder for Christmas tree, 256. 



Candle-stick, a camp, 346. 

Candle-stick, a pottery 127, a, with 
handle, 128. 

Candle-stick, a spool, 37. 

Candle-sticks, cardboard, 52; a simple 
design, 53; another design, 54; a 
candle-stick with shade, 55, the 
shade, 57; decorating, 58. 

Candy baskets, 245; eight-corner, 245; 
heart-shaped, 247; with pinched cor- 
ners, 247. 

Candy-box cover frame, 99. 

Candy Jim, 244. 

Canopy for fair booth, 225; for play- 
store, 366. 

Canvas book- jackets, 166. 

Cardboard-box doll furniture (see Doll 
Furnitiu-e) . 

Cardboard gifts (see Gifts). 

Cardboard picture frames (see Picture 
Frames). 

Carpentry, cretonne-covered (see Cre- 
tonne-covered Carpentry.) 

Carpentry that a girl can do, i ; how to 
use a hammer, i; pointers about 
nailing, 2; sizes of nails to use, 2; 
driving nails in thin wood, 2; in hard 
wood, 3; driving short nails, 3; bent 
nails, 3; withdrawing nails, 4; right 
and wrong naiUng, 4; clinching nails, 
6; toe-nailing, 7; blind-nailing, 7; 
driving screws, 7; withdrawing 
rusted screws, 8; sawing, 8; principal 
tools needed, 10; cutting large holes, 
10; cutting slots, 10; a table work- 
bench, 11; an improvised vise, 11; a 
bench- stop, 1 2 ; a packing-case bench 
14; a bench-vise, 14; ways to im- 
prove work-bench, 14; a bench with 
iron vise, 15; construction of vise, 17; 
fastening bench to floor, 18; a tool- 
cabinet, 18; a tool-rack, 18; a nail- 
box, 18; to divide a board equally, 
19; gauging with rule and pencil, 20; 
marking out work, 21. 



402 



INDEX 



Carriage, a berry-box doll, 389. 

Case, apencil-, 167; another style of, 169. 

Case, a pin, 51. 

Case, a shoe-blacking, 94. 

Case for postcard colorscope, 193. 

Castle, a bird, 271. 

Castle table decoration, a Santa Claus, 
237; the mountain base, 237; lower 
portion of castle, 237; lower tower, 
237; upper tower, 237; windows, 239; 
a flag-pole, 239. 

Catspaw hitch, 351. 

Cavern, a witch's, 214. 

Chains for Christmas tree, 254; pop- 
corn, on thread, 254; bits of colored 
paper on thread, 254; cranberry and 
glass beads, 255. 

Chair, a berry-box, 385; another style of, 
386; a rocker, 387. 

Chair, a cardboard box arm-, 180; a 
straight-back, 181. 

Chairs, doU apartment, 176. 

Chart, a bird, 321. 

Chart of correct dimensions for bird- 
houses, 266. 

Chimney for table log-cabin, 235. 

China-painting, home, 132; conven- 
tional china decoration, 132; equip- 
ment, 132; china firing, 134; a 
beginner's course, 135; a bud-holder, 
135; copying the design, 135; divid- 
ing the circumference, 135; tracing 
the design, 136; transferring the 
design, 136; rubbing the lines with 
emery-paper, 137; outhning, 137; 
ready for the first firing, 137; mixing 
colors, 137; painting, 138; a plate, 
139; using the brass gauge, 139; lay- 
ing out design, 139; putting on gold, 
139; burnishing, 140; tinting, 140; 
patting tint, 141; wiping, 141; paint- 
ing flowers and leaves, 141; a vase, 
143; colors to use, 143; a small bowl, 
143; a bowl with feet, 145; a cup and 
saucer, 146; adapting designs, 146. 



Choosing supper partners, 220. 

Christmas-tree ornaments, 249; vase 
for tree, 249; a spear, 251; a star, 252; 
popcorn chains, 254; colored paper 
chains,' 254; strings of cranberries 
and glass beads, 255; a rubber-ball 
ornament, 255; an egg-shell orna- 
ment, 255; a candle holder, 256; 
Santa Claus dolls, 256; an airship, 
257; tarlatan stockings, 258; cornu- 
copias, 258; goblins, 259. 

Clay modeling (see Pottery). 

Clinching nails, 6. 

Cloth book-jackets, 164. 

Clothing for hiking, 331. 

Clove hitch, 352. 

Colander hanging-basket, 294. 

Colorscope, a postcard, 193; case for, 
193; postcard holder for, 194; color 
screen for, 195; mounting the disk 
196; to operate the, 196. 

Color screen, postcard colorscope, 195, 

Colors for china painting, 133, 137, 143. 

Comb-and-brush tray, 74. 

Compass, a wrist-watch as a, 336. 

Contest, a doughnut-eating, 219. 

Conventional china decoration (see 
China-Painting). 

Copying china-designs, 135. 

Copying pictures, 148; a glass reflecting- 
frame, 148; to make a copy, 148; en- 
larging and reducing by squares, 149. 

Corn-starch jewelry, 119; materials for 
119; coloring, 119; mixing the mater- 
ials, 119; hatpins, 119; a bracelet, 
121; a watch-fob, 121; a pendant, 
123; a lavalUere, 123. 

Cornucopia May basket, 309. 

Cornucopias for Christmas tree, 258. 

Counter for fair booth, 223; covering 
for, 226. 

Covers for scrap-book, 158; front, 159; 
back, 159; covering, 161. 

Cradle, a berry-box, 383. 

Crafts of Camp Fire, the seven, 329, 



INDEX 



403 



Crane, a camp-fire, 343. 

Cretonne-covered carpentry, 81; a 
fancywork-box, 81; a spool-rack, 83; 
a fancywork-box with legs, 83; a 
more elaborate box, 85; a portable 
desk, 86; a waste-basket, 92; a shirt- 
waist box, 92; a shoe blacking case, 
94; a footstool, 95; a set of book- 
shelves, 95; a bolster roll, 97. 

Cretonne covered picture frame, 102. 

Cretonne, gifts, 67; book ends, 67; a 
twine holder, 68; a hanging work- 
box, 69; a telephone book, 69; a 
music case, 70; a dresser set, 70; a 
hatpin holder, 72; a pin cushion, 73; 
a hanging pin cushion, 73; a glove- 
box, 73; a brush and comb tray, 74; 
a trinket chest, 74; a home utility- 
box, 77; a twine-box, 79. 

Cup, to fold a paper, 337. 

Cup and saucer, to decorate a, 146. 

Cupboard for umbrella play-tent, 373. 

Curtains, doU apartment, 176. 

Cutting, with a saw, 8; large holes, 10; 
slots, 10. 

Cylindrical holder for May flowers, 3 12. 

D 

Dancing doll, 184; materials for, 184; 
the parts, 184; to assemble, 184; 
standard for, 185; dress for, 185; to 
make it dance, 187; a doll's dancing 
party, 187. 

Decoration, holiday table, 233; the 
Pilgrim's homestead, 233; the cabin, 
233; the pond, 236; trees, 236; rail 
fence, 236; wintry effect, 236; Pil- 
grim Father, 236; the Santa Claus 
castle, 237; mountain, 237; snow 
effect, 239; making snow sparkle, 
239; trail, 239; trees, 239; Santa 
Claus's aeroplane, 240; a pattern for 
Santa Claus, 241; an orange basket, 
242; orange water hly, 242; cinna- 
mon bear, 243; hound, 243; turtle,243; 



Candy Jim, 244; baskets for candy, 
245; an eight-corner basket, 245; a 
heart-shaped basket, 247; a basket 
with pinched corners, 247. 

Design, copying a china, 135; tracing 
the, 136; transferring the, 136; 
adapting a, 146. 

Desk, a portable, 86. 

Desk blotter, a spool, 40. 

Desk calendar, a cardboard, 58; a per- 
petual, 60; another, 62. 

Desk calendar, a spool , 38. 

Diary, a vacation, 316. 

Dibble, 283. 

Dining-room, doll apartment, 173; 
woodwork, 174; wainscoting, 174; 
table, 177. 

Disk for colorscope, 195. 

Divide a board into equal parts, to, 19. 

Doll, a dancing, 184; materials, for, 184; 
the parts, 184; to assemble, 184; 
standard for, 185; dress for, 185; to 
make it dance, 187; a doll's dancing 
party, 187. 

DoU apartment, a hat-box, 172; kind of 
hat-box to use, 172; how to prepare 
it, 172; reinforcing cornerof box, 173; 
dining-room, 173; bedroom, 173; 
living-room, 173; doors and win- 
dows, 173; dining-room woodwork, 
174; wainscoting, 174; buffet, 174; 
bedroom walls, 175; picture-mold- 
ing, 175; pictures, 176; curtains, 176; 
living-room walls, 176; doU furni- 
ture, 176; chairs, 176; hving-roora 
table, 176; dining-room table, 177; 
bedroom table, 177; four-poster bed, 
177; rugs, 178. 

Doll furniture, berry-box (see Furni- 
ture). 

Doll furniture, cardboard-box (see 
Furniture). 

Doll furniture, spool (see Furniture). 

Dolls, Christmas tree Santa Claus, 256. 

Door-frame for brush-hut, 380, 



404 



INDEX 



Door opening, table cabin, 234. 
Doors, doll apartment, 173. 
Doughnut-eating contest, 219. f 
Dresser, a berry-box, 385. 
Dresser-set, 70. 
Dress for dancing doll, 185. 
Ducks for Japenese garden, 231. 
Duffle-bags, 334. 

E 
Egg-basket hanging-basket, 299. 
Egg-shell ornament for Christmas tree, 

255- 
Enlarging pictures by squares, 149. 



Fair booth (see Booth). 

Fanc3avork-box, 81; with legs, 83; a 
more elaborate, 85. 

Favors for hallowe'en, 220; goblin, 220, 
witch, 221. 

Feet in hiking, care of, 331. 

Fence for table homestead, 236. 

Field notes, 316. 

Figure eight knot, 349. 

Filing specimens in herbarium, 326. 

FiUing May baskets, 313. 

Finishing small gifts made of wood, 22; 
household gifts, 36; spool gifts, 38. 

Fire, a make-beheve, 213. 

Fire, an open, 342. 

Fire Maker, 328; (see Camp Fire Girls). 

Fireless cooker, a camp, 344. 

Fireplace, a backwoodsman's, 343. 

Firing, china, 134; pottery 131. 

Fisherman's knot, 350. 

Flag, a home-made American, 354; 
standardized proportions, 354; bunt- 
ing for, 355; seams between stripes, 
356; joining the blue field, 356; can- 
vas binding for the staff edge, 356; 
grommets, 357; cutting the stars, 
357; pattern for five-pointed stars, 
358; sewing the stars in place, 358; 
the flag-pole, 358; fastening the pole 
to a window-sill, 358; the stays, 360. 



Flag-pole for Santa Glaus castle, 239. 

Flat-iron rest, S3- 

Flower-boxes, hanging-baskets and, 294; 
a tin- funnel basket, 294; a colander 
basket, 294; a rustic basket, 296; an 
egg-basket ilower-basket, 299; a 
flower-pot basket, 299; a two-pot 
basket, 300; a box basket, 301; an- 
other box basket, 302 ; a rustic basket, 
302; a window flower-box, 304; a 
window or porch balustrade box, 305 ; 
a corner box, 306; a plant-box, 307; 
painting, 308. 

Flower-pot hanging-basket, 299; an- 
other, 300. 

Flower-pot shield for transplantings, 
284. 

Fly-trap, 392; an excellent trap, 392; 
outer cage, 392; inner cage, 393; 
assembUng, 395; bait-tray, 396; bait, 
397. 

Football calendar, 45. 

Footstool, a berry-box, 386. 

Footstool and shoe-blacking case, 

95- 

Fortune telling, witch for, 212; mirror, 
215; another idea for, 216; other 
ways of, 216; the twirling pumpkin 
method of, 217. 

Four-poster bed, a cardboard, 177. 

Frames for small pictures, home-made, 
99; a candy-box cover frame, 99; a 
pUl-box frame, 100; a double card- 
board frame, loi; a cretonne-cov- 
ered frame, 102; a glass frame, 103; 
other ideas for, 104. 

Funnel hanging-basket, 294. 

Furniture, berry-box, 383; a cradle, 383; 
a table, 384; a chair, 385; a dresser, 
385; a swinging seat, 385; a sofa, 385; 
.another style of chair, 386; a foot- 
stool, 386; a rocker, 387; another 
style of table, 388; a wagon, 389; a 
doll carriage, 3S9; a swing, 389. 



INDEX 



405 



Furniture, cardboard box, 179; a bed, 
179; a table, 180; a more elaborate 
design, 180; an arm-chair, 180; a 
straight-back chair, 181; other ideas, 
183; 

Furniture, spool doll, 176; chairs, 176; 
a living-room table, 176; a dining 
room table, 177; a bedroom table 
177; a four-poster bed, 177. 



Gable-roof, miniature greenhouse with 
a, 280. 

Garden, a Japanese, 227; pan for, 227; 
arrangement of, 227; a good plan for, 
227; a pond for, 227; Japanese grass 
seed for, 228; Japanese house for, 
228; bridge for, 229; lamps for, 230; 
bird house for, 230; ducks for, 231; 
other accessories for, 232. 

Garden handicraft, 279; miniature 
greenhouses, 279; a greenhouse with 
a lean-to roof, 2 79 ; a greenhouse with 
a gable roof, 280; cake tin to catch 
drippings, 281; painting, 281; filling 
greenhouses, 2S2; planting seeds,283 ; 
a dibble, 283; protection of trans- 
plantings, 284; a paper funnel shield, 
284; a flower pot shield, 284; a 
basket shield, 285; garden markers, 
285; a small sprinkler, 285; an 
umbrella bower, 285; a barrel-hoop 
bower, 288; putting up strings for 
vines, 289; a trellis, 290; a m.ore 
elaborate trellis, 291; a trellis for 
sweet peas, 292; a weeding stool, 
292; a weed receptacle, 292; garden 
steps, 293. 

Gauge for china painting, how to use 
a, 139. 

Gauging with rule and pencil, 20. 

Ghost, 210; head for, 210; body frame- 
work for, 211; gown for, 211; hood 
for, 211; Ghost story telling, 218. 



Gifts, cretonne, 67; book-ends, 67; a 
twine holder, 68; a hanging work- 
box, 69; a telephone-book, 69; a 
music-case, 70; a dresser-set, 70; a 
hatpin holder, 72; a pin-cushion, 73; 
a hanging pincushion, 73; a glove- 
box, 73; a brush-and-comb tray, 74; 
a trinket-chest, 74; a home utility- 
box, 77; a twine- box, 79. 

Gifts, household, 28; a tool- rack, 28; a 
bottle-rack, 28; a milk-card rack, 30; 
a safety-match holder, 30; a scrub- 
pail platform, 33; a flatiron rest, 33; 
a winter window refrigerator, 34; 
finishing, 36. 

Gifts made of wood, small, 22; materials, 
22; methods of finishing, 22; a 
thermometer-board, 23; a key- 
board, 24; a spool-holder, 25; a spool- 
rack, 25; a simpler spool-rack, 27; a 
paper-spindle, 27. 

Gifts, paper and cardboard, 45; earn- 
ing pocket money, 45; a football 
calendar, 45; a blotter-pad, 47; a 
Japanese pin-cushion, 48; a heart- 
shaped needle book, 49; a book- 
marker, 49; a comer book-marker- 
50; a pin-case, 51 ; a black-cat match- 
scratcher, 52; a simple candlestick, 
53; another design, 54; a candle- 
stick with shade, 55; the shade, 57; 
decorating the cardboard, 58; a desk 
calendar, 58; a perpetual calendai', 
60; another form, 62 ; a recipe cabinet, 
62; indexed guide cards, 64. 

Gifts, spool, 37; a candle stick, 37; 
finishing, 38; a desk calendar, 38; a 
stationery- rack, 39; a pen-r?ck, 39; 
a desk blotter, 40; a paper knife, 41; 
a paper spindle, 41; a toothpick 
holder, 42; a ripper, 43; a hatpin- 
holder, 43; a necktie- rack, 44. 

Glazing pottery, 131. 

Glove-box, 73. 

Gobhn favors for hallowe'en, 220. 



406 



INDEX 



Goblins for Christmas tree, 259. 

Gold in china painting, applying, 139; 
burnishing, 140. 

Gown for ghost , 2 1 1 ; f or witch ,212. 

Granny knot, 349. 

Grass baskets, prairie-, 105; to prepare 
grass rope for, 105; to begin the, 106; 
handle for, 107; other forms of, 108; 
forked handle for, 108. 

Grass seed for Japanese garden, 228. 

Greenhouses, miniature, 279; a green- 
house with a lean-to roof, 279; with 
a gable roof, 280; cake-tin to catch 
drippings, 281; painting; 281; filling, 
282; planting, 283, care of, 283. 

Grommets for flag, 357. 

Ground cloth for tent, 341. 

Guardian of the Fire, 330; (see Camp 
Fire Girls). 



H 



Half-hitch, 351; a timber hitch and, 352. 

Hallowe'en, fun for, 208; party invita- 
tions, 208; Jack Pumpkinhead, 209; 
framework for head, 209; the head, 
209; Jack-o'-lanterns, 209; Jack's 
blouse, 210; the buttons, 210; a 
pleated collar, 210; the staff, 210; a 
ghost, 210; the head, 210; the body 
framework, 211; the gown, 211; the 
hood, 211; a witch, 211; a witch to 
tell fortunes, 212; her wigwam, 212; 
a make-beUeve fire, 213; a moon- 
Ught effect, 213; the witch's caldron, 
213; a witch's cavern, 214; stunts 
for the evening, 215; fortune telling, 
215; another fortune- telling idea, 
216; other ways, 216; the twirling 
pumpkin, 217; ghost-story telling, 
218; pinning the tail upon the witch's 
cat, 218; tails for, 219; a doughnut- 
eating contest, 219; choosing supper 
partners, 220; invisible ink, 220; 
table favors, 220. 



Hammer, how to swing a, i. 

Handicraft booth (see Booth). 

Hanging-basket, a paper- rope, 115. 

Hanging-baskets and flower-boxes, 294; 
a tin-funnel basket, 294; a colander 
basket, 294; a rustic basket, 296; an 
egg-basket flower-basket, 299; a 
flower-pot basket, 299; a two-pot 
basket, 300; a box basket, 301; an- 
other box basket, 302; another 
rustic basket, 302; a window flower- 
box, 304; a window or porch balust- 
rade box, 305; a corner box, 306; a 
corner box, 306; a plant box, 307; 
painting, 308. 

Hanging bird-house. 275. 

Hanging pin-cushion, 73, 

Hanging work box, 69. 

Hat-box doll apartment (see Doll 
Apartment). 

Hat-braid and reed basket, no. 

Hatpin holder, a spool, 43; a cardboard 
box, 72. 

Hatpins, com starch, 119. 

Head net, a mosquito, 346. 

Heart shaped candy basket, 247. 

Herbarium 322; a letter file for a, 322; 
a press, 323; pressing, 325; trans- 
ferring specimens, 326; fiUng speci- 
mens, 326; indexing sheets, 326. 

Hiking, 330; clothing, 331; care of feet, 
331; a home-made knapsack, 332; 
duffle-bags, 334; knife-sheaths, 334; 
packing the knapsack, 334; losing 
one's way, 334; blazing the trail, 
335; a wrist- watch as a compass, 336; 
stars as guides, 336; to fold a paper 
cup, 337- 

Hitches, 351; the blackwall hitch, 351; 
the catspaw, 351 ; the half-hitch, 351 ; 
the timber hitch, 352; the timber 
hitch and half-hitch, 352; the clove 
hitch, 352; the marling hitch, 353; 
the sheepshank, 353. 



INDEX 



407 



Holder, a spool-, 25; a safety-match, 30; 
a toothpick, 42; a hatpin, 43, 72; a 
twine, 68, 79; a postcard colorscope, 
194; a Christmas tree candle-, 256; 
a rubber-stamp, 153, 156. 

Holder, to decorate a bud-, 135. 

Holes, cutting large, 10. 

Holiday table decoration (see Table 
decoration). 

Homestead table decoration, 233. 

Hooded May basket, 311. 

Hound made of fruit, 243. 

House for Japanese garden, 228. 

Household gifts (see Gifts). 

Houses, bird-, (see Bird-Houses). 

Houses, play-, (see Play-Houses). 

Hut, a brush-, 377; the framework for, 
377; to begin the framework for, 380; 
the door-frame for, 380; the window- 
frames for, 381; the framework 
strings for, 381; the covering mater- 
ial for, 382; weaving, 382; the roof 
covering for, 382; stuffing openings 
of, 382. 

I 

Impressions, leaf, 318; to make, 318; 
flower, 319; in color, 320. 

Indexed guide-cards for recipe-cabinet, 
64. 

Indexing herbarium sheets, 326. 

Indexing scrap-books, 160. 

Indian encampment, a play, 374; 
newspaper tepees, 374; a kettle tri- 
pod, 376; a kettle, 376; a make- 
beheve camp-fire, 377. 

Ink, invisible, 220. 

Instruments for home-made telephone, 
203. 

Invitations for Hallowe'en, 208. 



orange buttons for, 210; pleated 
collar, 210; staff for, 210. 

Japanese garden, 227; bake-pan for, 
227; arrangement of, 227; a good 
plan, 227; a pond, 227; Japanese 
grass seed for, 228; house for, 228; 
bridge for, 229; lamps for, 230; 
bird-house for, 230; ducks for, 231; 
other accessories for, 232. 

Japanese pin-cushion, 48. 

Jar of home-made pottery, 126. 

Jewel-box, paper- rope, 114. 

Jewelry, corn-starch, 119; materials for, 
119; coloring, 119; mixing the 
materials for, 119; hatpins, 119; a 
bracelet, 121; a watch-fob, 121; a 
pendant, 123; a lavaUiere, 123. 

Jim, Candy, 244. 

Jug of home-made pottery, 129. 

K 

Kettle and tripod, newspaper, 376. 

Key-board, 24. 

Knapsack, a home-made, 332; material 
for, 332; duffle-bags for, 334; knife- 
sheaths for, 334; packing the, 334. 

Knots and hitches, 348; the three parts 
of a rope, 348; the overhand knot, 
348; the sciuare knot, 349; the 
granny knot, 349; the figure eight 
knot, 349; the fisherman's knot, 350; 
the bowUne,35o; the sheet bend, 351; 
the blackwall hitch, 351; the cats- 
paw, 351; the half-hitch, 351; the 
timber hitch, 352; the timber hitch 
and half-hitch, 352; the clove hitch, 
352; the marUng hitch, 353; the 
sheepshank, 353. 



Jack-o'-lanterns, 209. 
Jack Pumpkinhead, 209; his head, 209; 
framework for, 209; blouse for, 210; 



Lamp, a pottery table, 129. 
Lamps for a Japanese garden, 230. 
Lanterns for a fair booth, 226. 
Lavalllere, a corn-starch, 123. 



408 



INDEX 



Leaf impressions, 318; in color, 320. 
Leaf spatterwork, 316; to do, 317. 
Lean-to roof, a miniature greenhouse 

vvith a, 279. 
Leaves for scrap-books, 158. 
Lemonade-stand, 361; to build a, 363; 

an umbrella top, 364; to decorate 

the top, 364; covering for counter, 

364; neatness, 364. 
Letter-file for a herbarium, 322. 
Letter- file, scrap-book made like a, i6t. 
'"Letter" rubber stamps, 153. 
Letteiing titles on book-jackets, 165. 
Light for ghost-story telhng, 218. 
"Little girl" rubber-stamps, 157. 
Living-room, a doll apartment, 173. 
Log cabin for table, (see Cabin). 
Loose-leaf vacation record-book, 314; 

leaves for, 315; a shoe-string lacing 

for, 316. 
Losing one's way while hiking, 334. 



M 



Magic pinwheel whirhgig, 191. 

Markers, garden, 285. 

Marking out work, 21 

MarUng hitch, 353. ■ 

Match-scratcher, 52. 

Mattress, a pine-bough, 341. 

May baskets, 309; a cornucopia basket, 
309; a basket made of a writing- 
paper box, 310; a hoodedbasket,3ii; 
a cylindrical holder, 312; filling, 313. 

Milk-card rack, 30. 

Miniature greenhouses (see Green- 
houses). 

Mixing china paints, 137. 

Modeling, clay (see Pottery). 

Moonlight effect for haUowe'en, 213. 

Mosquito head-net, 346. 

Mountain for Santa Claus castie table 
decoration, 237, 



Moving-pictare show, a home, 198; 
support for picture screen, 198; 
picture rollers, 199; picture strips, 
200; source for pictures, 200; to com- 
plete the theater, 201; to operate, 
202. 

"Mule" rubber stamps, 156. 

Music-case, 70. •'. 

N 
Nail-box, 18. 
Naihng, 2; into thin wood, 2; into hard 

wood, 3; right and wrong, 4; toe-, 7; 

blind-, 7. 
Nails, sizes of, to use, 2; withdrawing, 4; 

chnching, 6. 
Necktie-rack, 44. 
Needle-book, 49. 
Net, a mosquito head-, 346. 
Newspaper, building with, 374. 

O 

Orange, basket made of a, 242. 

Orange buttons for Jack Pumpkin- 
head's blouse, 210. 

Orange, lily made of, 242. 

Ornamenting pottery, 131. 

Ornaments for the Christmas tree, 249; 
base for the tree, 249; a spear, 251; a 
star, 252; popcorn chains, 254; 
colored paper chains, 254; strings of 
cranberries and glass beads, 255; a 
rubber-baU ornament, 255; an egg- 
shell ornament, 255; a candle-holder, 
256; Santa Claus dolls, 256; an air- 
ship, 257; tarlatan stockings, 258; 
cornucopias, 258; goblins, 259. 

Outlining in china painting, 137. 

Overhand knot, 348. 



Packing a knapsack, 334. 
Paddle whirligig, 1S8. 
Pail platform, a scrub-, 33. 



INDEX 



409 



Painting, china-, (see China Painting). 

Painting bird-houses, 278. 

Painting flower-boxes, 308. 

Painting miniature greenhouses, 281. 

Paper and cardboard gifts (see Gifts). 

Paper booli- jackets, 163. 

Paper cup, to fold a, 337. 

Paper- funnel shield for transplantings, 

284. 
Paper-knife, a spool, 41. 
Paper- rope, making things of, iii; 

cardboard box foundations for, in; 

to prepare strands of, iii. 
Paper-rope basket, 115; the same, with 

a different handle, 115; a hanging-, 

115; a woven, 115; shellacking, 118. 
Paper-rope jewel-box, 114. 
Paper-rope serving-tray, 113; putting on 

the paper- rope covering, 113; inside 

cov^ering for, 114; wire handles for, 

114. 
Paper spindle, 27; a spool-, 41. 
Paper tubes, building with news-, 

374- 
Patting, in china painting, 141. 
Pencil-case, a cloth, 167; another style 

of, 169. 
Pendant, a corn-starch, 123. 
Pen-rack, a spool, 39. 
Pen- wiper, 170. 
Perpetual calendar, 60; another form of, 

62. 
Picture-frames, small (see Frames). 
Picture rubber-stamps, 156. 
Picture screen for moving-picture show, 

198. 
Picture show (see Moving-picture 

show) . 
Picture strips for mo\'ing-picture show, 

200. 
Pictures, doll apartment, 176. 
Pictures, how to copy, 148; a glass 

reflecting-frame, 148; to make a 

copy, 148; enlarging and reducing 

by squares, 149. 



Pilgrim's homestead table decoration 
(see Table Decoration). 

Pill-box picture-frame, 100. 

Pin-case, 51. 

Pin-cushion, a Japanese, 48; a cretonne, 
73; a hanging-, 73. 

Pinning the tail upon the witch's cat, 
the game of, 218; tails for, 219. 

Pin wheel whirligig, 191. 

Plant-box, 307. 

Planting miniature greenhouses, 283. 

Plate, to decorate a, 139. 

Play-houses, 370; an imibrella play- 
tent, 370; a cupboard for, 373; 
newspaper tepees, 374; kettle and 
tripod for make-beheve fire, 375; 
a make-beheve camp-fire, 377; a 
brush-hut, 377. 

Play-stores, 361; a lemonade-stand, 
361; a play-store, 365; a set of scale- 
balances for, 367. 

Pole, a flag-, 358; fastening, to a 
window-sill, 358; stays for, 359. 

Pond for Japanese garden, 227. 

Pond for table homestead, 236. 

Porch balustrade flower-box, 305; a 
corner, 306. 

Postcard colorscope, 193; case for, 193; 
postcard holder for, 194; color 
screen for, 195; mounting the disk 
196; to operate the, 196. 

Pot hanging-basket, a flower-, 299; a 
two-, 300. 

Pottery, home-made, 124; modeUng 
clay for, 124; board to work upon, 
124; a jar, 126; a candle-stick, 127; 
a cardboard "templet," 128; a 
candle-stick, with a handle, 128; 
a bowl, 129; three other shapes of 
bowls, 129; a jug, 129; two vases, 
129; a table lamp, 129; ornamenting, 
131; glazing and firing, 131; water- 
proofing, 131; to keep unfinished 
pottery from hardening, 131. 



410 



INDEX 



Prairie-grass basket, 105; to prepare 
grass rope for, 105; to begin the, 
106; the handle for, 107; other forms 
of, 108; a forked handle for, 108. 

Press, a herbarium, 323; operating the, 

325- 
Protection of bird-houses, 278. 
Protector, drawing-instrument, 171. 
Pumpkin jack-o'-lanterns, 209. 
Pumpkin method of fortune- teUing, 

the twirling, 217. 

R 

Rack, a tool-, 18; a spool-, 25; a simpler 
spool-, 27; a spool-, for fancy work 
box, 83; a kitchen tool-, 25; a 
bottle-, 28; a milk-card, 30; a sta- 
tionery-, 39; a necktie-, 44. 

Raffia basket, 109; handles for, no; 
another, no. 

Rail fence for table homestead, 236. 

Recipe cabinet, 62. 

Record-book, a vacation, 314; a loose- 
leaf, 314; the loose leaves for a, 
315; a diary, 316; iield notes, 316; 
spatterwork leaf records, 316; to 
make a spatterwork picture, 317; 
leaf impressions, 318; to make leaf 
impressions, 318; flower impressions, 
319; impressions in color, 320; 
lettering names, 320; a record of 
bird-house tenants, 320; a wild- 
bird record, 320; a bird chart, 321. 

Reducing pictures by squares, 149. 

Reed and hat-braid basket, no. 

Reflecting-frame for copying pictures, 
148. 

Refrigerator, a winter window, 34. 

Rest, a flat-iron, 7,;^. 

Ridge-pole, a tent, 339. 

Ripper, 43. 

Rocker, a berry-box, 387. 

Roll, a bolster-, 97. 

Rollers for moving-picture show, 199. 

Roof, brush-hut, 382. 



Roof, table cabin, 236. 

Roofs, water-tight bird-house, 278. 

Rope, paper-, (see Paper Rope). 

Rubber-stamps, home-made, 153; mat- 
erials needed, 153; a letter rubber- 
stamp, 153; to carve out the letter, 
154; to make a proof, 154; to com- 
plete the stamp, 155; a "word" 
rubber-stamp, 156; picture stamps, 
156; "mule," 156; holders for, 156; 
"little girl," 157; other sets of, 157. 

Rustic hanging-basket, 296; another, 
302. 

Rugs, doll apartment, 178. 



Safety-match holder, 30. 

Santa Claus castle table decoration (see 
Table Decoration). 

Santa Claus dolls for Christmas tree, 
1256. 

Santa Claus for table decoration, pat- 
tern for, 241; aeroplane for, 240. 

Saucer and cup, to decorate a, 146. 

Sawing, 8. 

Scale-balances for play-store, 367; weigh- 
ing-trays for, 369; weights for, 369. 

Scrap-books, book-jackets, and other 
ideas, 158; home-made scrap-books, 
158; covers for, 158; leaves for, 158; 
the front cover, 159; the back cov- 
er, 159; punching leaves, 160; in- 
dexing, 160; assembhng, 160; cover- 
ing the covers, 161; a scrap-book 
made like a letter-file, 161; book- 
jackets, 162; paper jackets, 163; 
cloth jackets, 164; lettering titles, 
165; a canvas jacket, 166; a cloth 
pencil-case, 167; another style, 169; 
a pen-wiper, 170; a drawing-instru- 
ment protector, 171. 

Screen for moving-picture show, 198. 

Screws, driving, 7; to withdraw rusted, 
8. 

Scrub-pail platform, 33. 



INDEX 



411 



Serving-tray, paper-rope, 113. 
Sheepshank method of shortening a 

rope, 353- 
Sheet bend knot, 351. 
Shelf, a camp wash-, 346. 
Shelter, a bird, 275. 
Shelves, book-, 95. 
Shield for transplantings, a paper-fmi- 

nel, 284; a flower-pot, 284; a basket, 

285. _ 
Shirt-waist box, 92. 
Shoe-blacking case, 94. 
Shovel, a camp, 346. 
Show, a home moving-picture (see 

Moving-Picture Show). 
Sleeping-bag, 341. 
Slots, cutting, 10. 
Snow effect, 236, 239. 
Sofa, a berry-box, 385. 
Spatterwork, 316; to do, 317. 
Spear ornament for Christmas tree, 251. 
Spindle, a paper-, 27; a spool, 41. 
Spool furniture (see Furniture). 
Spool gifts (see Gifts). 
Spool-holder, 25. 

Spool-rack, 25; a simpler, 27; a fancy- 
work box, 83. 
Sprinkler, a garden, 285. 
Square knot, 349. 
Staff for Jack Pumpkinhead, 210. 
Stakes, tent-, 340. 

Stamps, rubber- (see Rubber-Stamps) . 
Standard for a dancing-doll, 185. 
Standing part of a rope, 348. 
Star ornament for a Christmas tree, 252 . 
Stars as guides, 336. 
Stars for a flag, cutting, 357; a pattern 

for five-pointed, 358; sewing to 

field, 358. 
Stationery-rack, a spool, 39. 
Stays for a flag-pole, 360. 
Steps, garden, 293. 

Stick chimney for table log-cabin, 235. 
Stocking for Christmas tree, tarlatan, 

258. 



Stool, a weeding, 292. 

Store, a play, 365; aboard cover-top 
366; a canopy, 366; the canopy cov- 
ering, 367; enclosing the front and 
ends, 367. 

Stores, play, 361; a lemonade-stand, 
361; a play store, 365; a set of scale- 
balances for, 367. 

Stove, a camp, 344. 

Stunts for hallo we'en (see Hallowe'en). 

Sweet peas trellis, 292. 

Swing, a berry-box, 389. 

Swing, a bird-house with a, 274. 

Swinging seat, a berry-box, 385. 



Table, a berry-box, 384; another style 
of, 388. 

Table, a cardboard-box doll, 180; a 
more elaborate, 180. 

Table, a doll apartment living-room, 
176; a dining-room, 177; a bed-room, 
177. 

Table decoration, hohday, 233; the Pil- 
grim's homestead, 233; the cabin, 
233; the pond, 236; trees, 236; rail 
fence, 236; a wintry effect, 236; the 
Pilgrim Father, 236; the Santa Claus 
castle, 237; the mountain, 237; a 
snow effect, 239; making the snow 
sparkle, 239; a trail, 239; trees, 239; 
Santa Claus' aeroplane, 240; pattern 
for Santa Claus, 241; an orange bas- 
ket, 242; an orange water lily, 242; a 
cinnamon bear, 243; a hound, 243; a 
turtle, 243; Candy Jim, 244; baskets 
for candy, 245; an eight-corner bas- 
ket, 245; a heart-shaped basket, 247; 
a basket with piched comers, 247. 

Table favors for hallowe'en, 220; gobhn, 
220; witch, 221. 

Table lamp, a pottery, 129. 

Tarlatan stockings for the Christmas 
tree, 258. 



412 



INDEX 



Telephone, a home-made, 203; instru- 
ments for, 203; to prepare them out 
of tin cans, 203; wire for, 206; an ex- 
cellent booth for, 207; a real booth 
for, 207. 

Telephone-book, 69. 

Temple, a bird, 267. 

Templet for home-made pottery, 128. 

Tent, an umbreUa play-, 370. 

Tent, to make an "A," 338; material for, 
338; the ridge-pole and uprights,339; 
the tent-stakes, 340; pitching, 341 ; 
ground-cloth for, 341; a wall-, 342. 

Tepees, newspaper, 374; framework for, 
374; the paper poles, 374. 

Theater, a home moving-picture (see 
Moving Picture Show) 

Thermometer-board, 23. 

Timber hitch, 352. 

Timber hitch and half-hitch, 352. 

Tin-funnel hanging-basket, 294. 

Tinting in china-painting, 140. 

Toe-nailing, 7. 

Tool cabinet, 18. 

Tool-rack, 18; a kitchen, 28. 

Tools for carpentry, principal, 10. 

Toothpick holder, 42. 

Torch Bearer, 329 (see Camp Fire Girls) . 

Tower, a bird, 270; a tin-can, 270. 

Tracing a china design, 136. 

Transfering a china-design, 136. 

Transferring specimens to herbarium, 
326. 

Transplantings, protecting, 2S4. 

Trap, a fly- (see Fly-Trap). 

Tree ornaments (see Ornaments). 

Trees for Santa Claus castle table 
decoration, 239. 

Trees for table homestead, 236. 

Trellis, a vine, 290; a more elaborate, 
291; a sweet peas, 292. 

Trinket chest, 74. 

Truck, a scrub-pail, 2^. 

Turtle made of fruit, 243. 

Twine-box, 68; another, 79. 



TwirUng pumpkin method of fortune 
telling, 217. 



U 



Umbrella bower, 285. 

Umbrella play-tent, 370; to fasten 
umbrella-handle to chair back, 371; 
twine braces, 371; the cloth cover- 
ing, 373; a cupboard, 373. 

Umbrella top for lemonade stand, 364. 

UtiHty-box, 77. 



Vacation record-book (see Record- 
Book). 

Vase, to decorate a, 143. 

Ventilation of bird-houses, 278. 

Vines, strings for, 289; treUis for, 290; a 
more elaborate treUis for, 291; a 
sweet peas trellis, 292. 

Vise, an improved bench-, 11; an iron 
bench-, 17. 



W 



Wagon, a berry-box, 389. 

Wainscoting, doU apartment, 174. 

Waist box, a shirt-, 92. 

Wall bracket bird ark, 274. 

WaU-tent, 342; wooden floor for, 342. 

Wash-shelf, a camp, 346. 

Waste-basket, 92. 

Watch-fob, a corn-starch, 121. 

Water-lily made of an orange, 242. 

Waterproofing pottery, 131. 

Weed receptacle, 292. 

Weeding stool, 292. 

Whirhgigs, toy, 188; a paddle whirligig, 
188; to operate, 188; a speeding auto- 
mobile whirhgig, 189; a buzz-saw 
whirhgig, 189; a magic pinwheel 
whirhgig, 191. 

Wigwam, a witch's 212. 



INDEX 



413 



Wild bird record, 320. 
Window flower-box, 304; another, 305. 
Window-frames, for brush-hut, 381 
Window refrigerator, a winter, 34. 
Windows, hat-box doll apartment, 173. 
Wintry effect for table homestead, 236 ; 

for Santa Claus castle, 239. 
Wiping, in china-painting, 141. 
Witch, a Hallowe'en, 211; another, 212; 

wigwam for, 212; make-believe fire 

for, 213; caldron for, 213; cavern 

for, 214, 



Witch favors for Hallowe'en, 221. 

Withdrawing nails, 4. 

Wood Gatherer, 328 (see Camp Fire 
Girls). 

"Word" rubber-stamps, 156. 

Work-bench, a table, 11; improvised 
vise for, 11; a packing-case, 14; vise 
for, 14; ways to improve, 14; a, with 
an iron vise, 15; vise for, 17. 

W^ork-box, a hanging, 69. 

Writing-desk, a portable, 86. 

Writing-paper box May basket, 310 




HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS 

Practical Plans for Work and Play with Many Ideas 
for Eeirning Money 

By A. NEELY HALL 

Author of "The Boy Craftsman" 

With Nearly 600 Illustrations and Working-drawings by the Author and 
Norman P. Hall 8vo Cloth Net, $2,00 Postpaid, $2.25 

"T^HIS book is intended for boys who want the 
^ latest ideas for making things, practical 
plans for earning money, up-to-date suggestions 
for games and sports, and novelties for home 
and school entertainments. 

The author has planned the suggestions on 
an economical basis, providing for the use of 
the things at hand, and many of the things which 
can be bought cheaply. Mr. Hall's books have 
won the confidence of parents, who realize that 
in giving them to their boys they are providing 
wholesome occupations which will encourage self-reliance and resource- 
fulness, and discourage tendencies to be extravagant. 

Outdoor and indoor pastimes have been given equal attention, and 
much of the work is closely allied to the studies of the modern gram- 
mar and high schools, as will be seen by a glance at the following list 
of subjects, which are only a few among those discussed in the 500 
pages of text : 

Manual Training; Easily-made Furniture; Fitting up a 
Boy's Room ; Home-made Gymnasium Apparatus ; A Boy's 
Wireless Telegraph Outfit; Coasters and Bob-sleds; 
Model Aeroplanes; Pushmobiles and Other Home-made 
Wagons; A Castle Clubhouse and Home-made Armor. 
Modern ingenious work such as the above cannot fail to develop me- 
chanical ability in a boy, and this book will get right next to his heart. 

"The book is a treasure house for boys who like to work with tools and have 
a purpose in their working." — Springfield Union. 

"It is a capital book for boys since it encourages them in wholesome, useful occu- 
pation, encourages self-reliance and resourcefulness and at the same time discourages 
extravagance." — Brooklyn Times. 

" It is all in this book, and if anything has got away from the author we do not 
know what it is." — Buffalo News. 

For sale by all booksellers, or seat oa receipt of postpaid price by the publishers 

LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 




THE BOY CRAFTSHAN 

Practical and Profitable Ideas for a Boy's 
Leisure Hours 

By A. NEELY HALL 

Illustrated with over 400 diagrams and 
working drawings 8vo Price, net, $1.60 
Postpaid, $1.82 ' 

I7VERY real boy wishes to design and make 
*— ' things, but the questions of materials and 
tools are often hard to get around. Nearly all 
books on the subject call for a greater outlay of 
money than is within the means of many boys, 
or their parents wish to expend in such ways. 
In this book a number of chapters give sugges- 
tions for carrying on a small business that will 
bring a boy in money with which to buy tools 
and materials necessary for making apparatus 
and articles described in other chapters, while 
the ideas are so practical that many an industrious boy can learn what he 
is best fitted for in his life work. No work of its class is so completely 
up-to-date or so worthy in point of thoroughness and avoidance of danger. 
The drawings are profuse and excellent, and every feature of the book is 
first-class. It tells how to make a boy's workshop, how to handle tools, 
and what -an be made with them; how to start a printing shop and con- 
duct an amateur newspaper, how to make photographs, build a log cabin, 
a canvas canoe, a gymnasium, a miniature theatre, and many other things 
dear to the soul of youth. 

We cannot imag-ine a more delightful present for a boy than this book.— 
Ch u rch man, N. T. 

Every boy siiould have this book. It's a fH-actical book — it g'ets righ* next to 
the boy's heart and stays there. He will have it near him all the time, and on every 
pasf there is a lesson or something- that v/ill stand the boy in good need. Beyond 
a doubt ill its line this is one of the cleverest books on the aiarket. — Providence 
News. 

If a boy has any sort of a mechanical turn of mind, his parents should see that 
he has this book — Boston Journal. 
This is a book that will do boys gfood. — > Buffalo Express, 
The boy who will not find this book a .nine of joy and profit must be qaeerj? 
constituted. — Pittsburgh Gazette. 
Will be a delight to the boy mechanic. — Watchman, Boston 
All admirable book to give a boy. — Newark TWtys, 

ThiS .jo^jc Is the best yet offered for lU ?arge ssaojbei' of pswcticai aaii ^jsoika^w 
Ideas. — Milrvazikee Frea Press. 
Parents ought to know of this hook. — New Tork Glob*. 



For sale by all booksellers or sent postpaid 00 receipt. 
price by the publishers, 

tOTHROP. LEE & SHEPARD €0^^ BOSTC-M 



THE HANDY BOY 

A Modern Handy Book of Practical and Profitable Pastimes 

By A. NEELY HALL 

Author of "The Boy Craftsman" and 
"Handicraft for Handy Boys" 

With nearly 600 illustrations and working drawings by 

the Author and Norman P. Hall 8vo Cloth 

Price, Net, $1.60 Postpaid, $L82 

AHANBY boy becomes a handy man — a 
skilled mechanic, a practical business 
man, a thorough, accurate worker. That is 
why it is so important to encourage the boy to 
become handy. "The Handy Boy" has been 
written with a view to instructing the boy in 
the ways of doing things handily, by applying 
handy methods to the making and doing of 
hundreds of worth-while things in which he is 
intensely interested. Such instruction as it 
contains can be put to immediate use; and 
this naturally appeals to the boy's sense of the 
practical and is of infinitely more value to him 
than instruction which cannot possibly be of 
any use for years to come, because knowledge 

once applied is not easily forgotten. 

Besides developing handiness, "The Handy Boy" will encourage the 

boy to think for himself and to use his ingenuity ; and it will instill in him 

an ambition to make the best possible use of his time so that he ijiay grow 

up prepared to do something and be something. 

" Mr. Hall's book is just the thing to put into the growing boy's hand to keep 
him successfully and happily employed." — Des Moines Capital. 

"The best book of its kind that has yet been published."— ^osi!o« Transcript. 

"There is scarcely any boy from twelve to sixteen or seventeen that will not be 
delighted with such a book, and no ons would fail to receive much valuable infor. 
mation from it." — Presbyterian. 

"Here is a book that should be in the library of every healthy, ambitious 
American boy." — Buffalo Commercial. 

" No other volume contains such a variety of wholesome, instructive, and ente>. 
taining material, nor presents so many ways of making use of the things at hand." 
— Cliicago Advance, 

—^"^'•- 

For sale by all booksellers or sent postpaid oa receipt of 
price by the publishers 

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HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIPtLS 
AND BOYS 

Wooden Toys, Cardboard Toys, Spool Toys, Mechanical and 
Electrical Toys 

By A. NEELY HALL 

Author of "The Boy Craftsman," "Handicraft for Handy 

Boys," " The Handy Boy" Profusely illustrated with 

Photographs and Working-Drawings by the 

Author and Norman P. Hall 

8vo Cloth Price, Net, $1.25; Postpaid, $1.40 

TJERE is a veritable gold-mine of sug- 
■"■ ^ gestions for home-made toys, each one 
of which has been carried out successfully 
many times. Home-made toys have an 
increased value over purchased ones in 
the pleasure and practical experience gained 
in producing them. 

It is not a lack of playthings that makes 
toy-construction so attractive, but rather the 
love of doing something interesting, and 
afterward being able to say of each toy, "I 
made it all myself." 

Many of the merry-go-rounds, Ferris 

wheels, and other models made with the 

so-called "construction outfits" are shown 

in this toy book built of pick-up materials found at home. More 

credit is due boys and girls who learn to use these materials at 

hand, and the practice is an invaluable training in resourcefulness. 

"Mr, Hall has provided a boy's natural energy with a safe and construct- 
ive outlet, and knows full well how to make play-work interesting, and encour- 
age schoolboys and girls to think for themselves to use their ingenuity and 
stimulate their ambition." — Craftsman Magazine. 

" Looking at A. Neely Hall's HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND 
BOYS, we see no reason why young people need go to the shops when they 
can so easily manufacture mechanical toys at home. Certainly nothing can 
tempt a boy more than the challenge to him to make things here suggested.'' — 
Independent. 

"Mr. Hall, an expert in handicraft, in simple language and with ample 
illustrations gives clear directions for constructing all rnanner of toys for 
young people by young people. Some of the toys can be made with materials 
picked up around the average home, others by expending a few cents, but 
none are really expensive." — Continent. 

"This is an all the-yenr.round handy book on toy-raaking. In view of the 
prevailing disposition to encourage the constructive abilities of young people 
this volume is timely as well as useful."— Z'tVro/;; Free Press. 

For sale by all booksellers, or sent postpaid on receipt 
of price by the publishers 

Lotlirop, Lee & Shepard Co. Boston 




THE BOY ELECTRICIAN 

Practical Plans for Electrical Toys and Apparatus, with an 
Explanation of the Principles of Every-Day Electricity 

By ALFRED P. MORGAN 

Author of " IViff/ess Telegraphy Construction for Amateurs''^ and 

^^ Wireless Telegraphy and Telephony'''' yxt illuslrations 

and working drawings by the author Net, $2.00 

Postpaid, $2.25 



THIS is the age of electricity. The most 
fascinating of all books for a boy must, 
therefore, be one deaUng with the mystery of 
this ancient force and modern wonder. The 
best qualified of experts to instruct boys has 
in a book far superior to any other of its kind 
told not only how to MAKE all kinds of 
motors, telegraphs, telephones, batteries, 
etc., but how these appliances are used in 
the great industrial world. 



"Of all books recently published on practical electricity for the youth, 
ful electricians, it is doubtful if there is even one among them that is more 
suited to this field. This work is recommended to every one interested in 
electricity and the making of electrical appliances." 

Popular Electricity and Modern Mechanics 

"This is an admirably complete and explicit handbook for boys who fall 
under the spell of experimenting and "tinkering" with electrical apparatus. 
Simple explanations of the principles involved make the operation readily 
understandable." Boston Transcript, 

"Any boy who studies this book, and applies himself to the making and 
operating of the simple apparatus therein depicted, will be usefully and happily 
employed. He will, furthermore, be developing into a useful citizen. For this 
reason we recommend it as an excellent gift for all boys with energy, appli. 
cation, and ambition." Electrical Record, N. Y. City, 

"A book to delight the hearts of ten thousand — perhaps fifty thousand- 
American boys who are interested in wireless telegranhy and that sort of thing. 
Any boy who has even a slight interest in things eiectrical, will kindle with 
enthusiasm at sight of this book." Oiicago News, 




For sale by all booksellers or sent postpaid oa receipt of 
price by the publishers 

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B®k of Athletics 

Paul Withington 



The Book of Athletics 

Edited by PAUL WITHINGTON 

With many reproductions of photographs, and with diagrams 

2>vo Net^ ^1.50 Postpaid^ ^1.70 

NEARLY thirty college stars and 
champions, men like Dr. Kraen- 
zlein, Thorpe, Ketcham, "Sammy" 
White, "Eddie" Hart, Ralph Craig, 
"Hurry Up" Yost, Jay Camp, Horner, 
Jackson, F. D. Huntington, R. Norris 
Williams, "Eddie" Mahan, and many 
more tell the best there is to tell about 
every form of athletic contest of con- 
sequence. In charge of the whole 
work is Paul Withington, of Harvard, 
famous as football player, oarsman, 
wrestler and swimmer. 

" Here is a book that will serve a purpose and satisfy a need. 
Every important phase of sport in school and college is discussed 
within its covers by men who have achieved eminent success in their 
line. Methods of training, styles of play, and directions for attaining 
success are expounded in a clear, forceful, attractive manner." 

Harvard Monthly. 

" The book is made up under the direction of the best qualified 
editor to be found, Paul Withington, who is one of America's greatest 
amateur athletes, and who has the intel' actual ability and high 
character requisite for presenting such a book properly. The emphasis 
placed upon clean living, fair play and mo'ipvation in all things makes 
this book as desirable educationally as it ii. xn every other way. ' ' 

Outdoor Life. 

"That Mr. Withington's book will be popular we do not doubt. 
For it contains a series of expert treatises on all important branches 
of outdoor sports. A very readable, practical, well-illustrated book." 

Boston Herald. 




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price by the publishers 

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U. S, SERVICE SERIES 

By FRANCJS ROLT-WHEELER 

Many illustrations from photographs taken in work fof 
U. S. Qovernment Large 12mo Cloth $1.50 per volume 

THE BOY WITH THE U. S. SURVEY 

' I "HIS story describes the thrilling adventures of members of the U. S. 
■*■ Geological Survey, graphically woven into a stirring narrative that 
both pleases and instructs. The author enjoys an intimate acquaintance 
with the chiefs of the various bureaus in Washington, and is able to 
obtain at first hand the material for his books. 

" There is abundant charm and vig^or in the narrative which is sure to please the 
boy readers and will do much to wara stimulating their patriotism." — Chicago News. 

THE BOY WITH THE U. S. FORESTERS 

nPHE life of a typical boy is followed in all its adventurous detail — the 
•*■ mighty representative of our country's government, though young in 
years — a youthful monarch in a vast domain of forest. Replete with 
information, alive with adventure, and inciting patriotism at every step. 
" It is a fascinating- romance of real life in oi;r country, and will prove a great 
pleasure and inspiration to the boys who read it." — Tlie Continent, Chicago. 

THE BOY WITH THE U. S. CENSU5 

■■ I "HE taking of the census frequently involves hardship and peril, re- 
■*■ quiring arduous journeys by dog-team in the frozen north and by 
launch in the snake-haunted and alligator filled Everglades of Florida, 
while the enumerator whose work lies among the dangerous criminal 
classes of thegteater cities must take his life in his own hands. 

" Every young man should read this story, thereby getting a clear conception of 
conditions as they exist to-day, f r such knowledge will have a clean, invigorating 
and healthy influence on the young growing and thinking mind." — Boston Globe. 

THE BOY WITH THE U.S. FISHERIES 

THE book does not lack thrilling scenes. The 
far Aleutian Islands have witnessed more 
desperate sea-fighting than has occurred elsewhere 
since the days of the Spanish Buccaneers, and 
pirate craft, which the U. S. Fisheries must 
watch, rifle in hand, are prowling in the Behring 
Sea to-day. The fish-farms of the United States 
are as interesting as they are immense in their 
scope. 

" One of the best books for boys of all ages, so 
attractively written and illustrated as to fascinate the 
reader into staying up until all hours to finish it." — 
Philadelphia Despatch. 




LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 



U- S. SERVICE SERIES 

By FRANCIS ROLT=WHEELER 

Many illustrations from photographs taken In work for U.S. Government 
Large 12mo Cloth $1.50 per volume 

" There are no better books for boys than Francis Rolt-Wheeler's * U. S. 
Service Series.' " — Chicago Record- Herald, 

THE BOY WITH THE U. S. FISHERIES 

Tl 7ITH a bright, active American youth as 
' '' a hero, is told the story of the Fisheries, 
which in their acti;al importance dwarf every 
other human industry. The book does not 
lack thrilling scenes. The far Aleutian Islands 
have witnessed more desperate sea-fighting 
than has occurred elsewhere since the days of 
the Spanish buccaneers, and pirate craft, which 
the U. S. Fisheries must watch, rifle in hand, 
are prowling in the Behring Sea to-day. The 
fish-farms of the United States are as inter- 
esting as they are immense in their scope. 
" One of the best books forboys of all ages, so 
attractively writlen and illustrated as to fascinate 
the reader into staying- up until all hours to finish 
it, ' ' — Fh. iladclphia Despatch . 

THE BOY WITH THE U. S. INDIANS 

THIS book tells all about the Indian as he 
really was and is; the Menominee in his 
birch-bark canoe; the Iroquois in his wigwam in 
the forest; the Sioux of the plains upon his war- 
pony; the Apache, cruel and unyielding as his 
arid desert; the Fueblo Indians, with remains of 
ancient Spanish civilization lurking in the fast- 
nesses of their massed communal dwellings; the 
Tlingit of the Pacific Coast, with his totem-poles. 
With a typical bright American youth as a central 
figure, a good idea of a great field of national 
activity is given, and made thrilling in its human 
side by the heroism demanded by the little-known 
adventures of those who do the work oi " Uncle 
Sam." 

" An exceedingly interesting Indian story, because it is true, and not mere'iy 
a dramatic and picturesque incident of Indian life." — N. Y. Times. 

" It tells the Indian's story in a way that will fascinate the yonngster,"— 
Rochester Herald. 

Por sale by all booksellers or seat postpaid on receipt 
of price by the pubJIsbera 

LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO.. BOSTON 





HOHE ENTERTAINING 

What to Do, and How to Do It 

Edited by WILLIAfl E. CHENERY 
l2nio Cloth Price, Net, $.75 Postpaid, $.85 




s^^^sL 



Home 
Enter- 
taining 



AMUSEMENTS 
FOR EVERY ONE 

■WftUAM E CHENERV 



'T'HIS Look is the product of years of study 
and the practical trying-out of every con- 
ceivable form of indoor entertainment. All the 
garaes, tricks, puzzles, and rainy-day and social- 
evening diversions have been practised by the 
editor; many are original with him, and many 
thaf are of course not original have been greatly 
improved by his Intelligence. All are told in the 
plainest possible way, and with excellent taste. 
The book is well arranged and finely printed. At 
a low price it places within the reach of all the 
very best of bright and jolly means of making 

heme what it ought to be— the best p»ace for a good tim^ by those of all 

agss. 

••The book is brigfht ar i up to date, full cf cheer and sunshine, A good 
holiday book."— i?*ii^?i>«. i Isscope, Dayton, Ohio, 

*' For those who want new p-aines for the home this book supplies the veir best 
— good, clean, hearty games, full of fun and the spirit of laugh>'-.*- — N. 2'. Times. 

••Altogethpr the book is a perfect treasure-house for the young people's rainy 
day or social evening.'" — New hedjord Standard, 

•' The arrangement is excellent and the instructions so simple that a cnild may 
follow them. A book like this is just the thing for social evenings." — Christian 
Endeavor World. 

" A book giving the best, cleanest and brightest games and tricks tor home 
entertaining." — Syracuse Herald. 

•' The oook is clearly V7ritten and should prove erf value to every young man 
who aspires to be the life cf the i^wrtj."—Balttr,iore Sun. 

" Only good, bright, ilean games and tricks appeal tc Mr. Cheneryi, smd he 
iias told in the simplest and inost comprehensive manner how to get up ' amuse, 
nients tor everf one.' " — Jdjartfoyd Courunt, 



flar iaie 6y 9ll t^okseUeft or seat oa stoelpt ' 
prioe by the publiabers 



LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARB COm BOSTON 




FOUR GORDONS 

By EDNA A. BROWN 

Illustrated Large l2ino Decorated Cover Net, $1.20 

Postpaid, $1.32 

I OUISE and her three brothers are the " Four 
*— ' Gordons," and the story relates their ex- 
periences at home and school during the absence 
of their parents for a winter in Italy. There 
is plenty of iiun and frolic, with skating, coast- 
ing, dancing, and a jolly Christmas visit. The 
conversation is bright and natural, the book 
presents no improbable situations, its atmos- 
phere is one of refinement, and it has the merit 
of depicting simple and wholesome comradeship 
between boys and girls. 

" The story and its telling' are worthy of Miss Al- 
cott. Young folks of both sexes will enioy it." — 
N. r. Sun. 

" It is a hearty, wholesome story of youthful life 
in which the morals are never explained but simply 
illustrated by logical results." — Christian Register. 

UNCLE DAVID'S BOYS 

By EDNA A. BROWN 

Illustrated by John Goss 12nio Cloth 
Price, Net, $ 1 .20 Postpaid, $ 1 .32 

THIS tells how some young people whom cir- 
cumstances brought together in a little moun- 
tain village spent a summer vacation, full of good 
times, but with some unexpected and rather mys- 
terious occurrences. In the end, more than one 
head was required to find out exactly what was 
going on. The story is a wholesome one with % 
pleasant, well-bred atmosphere, and though it 
holds the interest, it never approaches the sensa- 
tional nor passes the bounds of the probable. 

"A story which will hold the attention of youthful 
readers trom cover to cover and prove not without its 
interest for older readers." — Evening Wisconsin. 

"For those young' people who like a lively story 
with some unmistakably old fashioned chanictcristics, 
' Uncle David's Boys,' will have a strong appeal." — 
Churchman, 




For aale by all booksellers or sent postpaid on receipt of 
price by the publishers 

LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 



